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About Blue4Life

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    My 03 Suzuki 1200S Bandit
  1. I pulled it apart last night, hoping to pull the basket and file the edges a bit to make it last longer, but when I ran my finger along every edge, I never felt any notching at all. When you look at it, you can see some slight discoloration, but nothing you can feel. My clutch play at the bar is about 1/8". Here's some pics Any ideas what could be causing my clutch to drag? Thanks
  2. Blue4Life

    Spring success stories?

    Stavendirtbike, You need to set your sag. You don't weigh much, so when you sit on it, the rear end doesn't drop much, which means your forks are almost straight up and down. This means you'll turn quick but have no high-speed stability. Look around for docs, FAQs on setting sag. If you need softer springs, do it. Springs for both end should be less than 150 and your suspension will never work properly if you don't have the right spring rate for your weight and skill level. Fast guys need stiffer suspension because they hit stuff harder. A 160 lb A rider might need the same spring rate as a 200 lb C rider.
  3. It would be easier if they said, "Put in 500cc" because everybody knows what 500cc is and there's no measuring required. But that's not the case. I have a tape measure, which is in inches obviously (ever noticed you can't buy a metric tape measure in the US?). I suppose I could cut a piece of wooden dowel rod to x length. Any ideas? Thanks
  4. Blue4Life

    need help on dialing in.....

    FWIW, I'm from Illinois and I ride in the woods and on PREPPED moto-x tracks. I hate hard pack (we call it dry-slick). When you crash in that stuff, it leaves a MARK. Crashing in loam, sand or mud is mostly no big deal. When I say HARD or SOFT, I'm not talking about the rubber compound of the tire, I'm talking about the terrain the tire is designed for. A HARD terrain tire is almost a roadracing slick (I"m exaggerating to make a point). Basically, there's more knob surface than gap in between. This allows the tire to have the a LOT of 'bottom' part of the knob on the ground for traction in hard conditions. A SOFT terrain tire has more gap than knob. Compare the 2 side by side at a dealer. This allows the weight (of the bike and rider) to be spread across fewer knobs, so you have more weight on each knob, which makes it dig in and give you traction on a soft surface like mud, sand or loam. Dunlop 739 hard terrain tire, comes stock on most bikes- good in rocks and hard pack. You will crash your brains out in mud or sand or anything loose. I rode with a D739 once at a prepped track practice at a placed called Walnut. It was muddy and I have never crashed so much in my life. I hate this tire, because it doesn't work for me in the riding environment I'm in. Guys out west swear by them, because they ride in hard terrain conditions. Dunlop 756 - an intermediate tire, i.e. for hard or soft terrain. Doesn't meet my need, works for some but not me. Michelin S12 - S means soft, i.e it's for soft terrain like mud, sand or loam. I love these tires and they LAST compared to the Dunlop counterpart, which is a D755, which I also like but it doesn't wear as well. Buy them for the front and rear and you're done! I've found that the Michelin S12 works great in soft conditions and tolerably in the conditions it was NOT made for, (hardpack and rocks, etc). The reverse is NOT true for a hard terrain tire like a D739. Hope this helps.
  5. Blue4Life

    Fresh rebuild, poor performance

    Actually, I was not aware there were different settings for the intake vs exhaust. I will note that. I did reset the timing (the cams were ok with respect to each other, but were off 1 tooth with respect to the crank. Now that it's switched around, it's much better. Starts easily and has good performance. To be honest, I was hoping for a little more power, apparently the rings and piston were in pretty good shape, as it feels identical to when I took the head off, other than starting much better.
  6. Blue4Life

    Fresh rebuild, poor performance

    Yeah, I'm right on the I. I figured it was cam timing. I just gotta pull the cams AGAIN, getting sick of that!
  7. I just had a Hothead special done by Eric Gorr and also replaced the piston, ring and cam chain myself while re-installing the head. The top ring gap is aligned at 12 o'clock, the 2nd is at 6 o'clock and the oil rings are at 3 and 9. The jetting was fine and the bike ran well before the rebuild, other than very poor starting, which I attributed to a worn out top end due to the age of the bike, a 2002 YZF-250 with an 03 cam in it. Info on problem: Very difficult to start Very poor performance (won't wheely in first gear) Bike will fire briefly, then die Seems to start better cold than warm Info about the bike Fresh oil, antifreeze and a new clean air filter with NoToil. A/F was done 2 days before the bike was started. Brand new gas after having initial problems, I wanted to eliminate that. No clunky noises when spinning it over by hand with the plug removed. Fresh plug (had to be replaced because it got covered with the fresh oil that I lined my cylinder with, after multiple attempts to start, this has not reoccurred). I checked the valve adjustment, it's ok. Admittedly, this is the first time I've checked it, but the 0.10 fits in there ok and .014 is a tight fit. Cam chain tensioner is in the released position Here's a picture of the cam timing. Note that there are 12 pins between the top dots on the intake and exhaust cam and that the engine is on the "i" in the TDC mark on the crank. Thanks
  8. Blue4Life

    Hving trouble mounting 03 cam

    The manual doesn't really apply as with the 03 cam in the 02, it doesn't have the E and I on the new exhaust cam.
  9. I have an 02 YZ250F with an 03 cam. I looked at some posts by searching for 03 cam, but they weren't really clear. Here's some pictures of how it's set now Note that the E and I on the intake are pretty much lined up with the top of the head and the punch mark on the exhaust is at the 10 o'clock position. Note position of cam lobes. Help!
  10. Blue4Life

    To Buy or Not to Buy ????

    With good reason. I have one and it's obnoxiously loud. I got the Quiet Core insert and it helped, but it's still a loud pipe. There are better pipes out there.
  11. I don't have the special tools for holding the flywheel and pulling it (2 tools total, per the manual). I figure I can get a flywheel puller from AutoZone, but what about the deal that holds the flywheel so you can loosen the nut? I'm considering putting it in gear and having someone stand on the rear brake while I crank on the flywheel nut, will that do the trick? Thanks
  12. Blue4Life

    03 WR250 -- loft front wheel w/ throttle?

    YOu NEED the ZipTy fuel screw. Get ready to learn the wonderful world of jetting. I have to change mine 2x a year, once for cold weather, where it needs to be richer and once for when it gets warmer, where I have to lean it out to account for the warmer and therefore thinner air. You need to start hanging out in the James Dean forum and the JD jetting kit is a very good investment. You need: Zip ty fuel screw JD jetting kit Power Now The patience to learn about jetting. You bought the bike, now you're stuck. You'll love it, it ain't that bad. It's just simple logic applied to some components like the fuel screw, the pilot jet, the clip position and the main jet. The main is the least important because it only applies to 3/4 to WOT (wide open throttle) and most of us spend a lot more time at partial throttle settings than WOT. 1) Get the fuel screw and put it in 2) Whack the throttle open at idle and see how it responds 3) Open it a half turn (counterclockwise, allowing more fuel) and do it again. 4a) If it's worse when you do #3, turn it a full turn back to make it a half turn back from where you started ( a half turn to go back to where you started, then another half turn to actually make a change from where you started). 4b) If it's better when you do #3, keep going, opening it another half turn 5) Keep going with either 4a or 4b until it's as good as it can be. 6) If it's only a half turn out or closed entirely, you need a leaner pilot jet (stock is #40, try a 38). If it's more than 2.5 turns out, you need a richer pilot jet, try a 42 or a 45. If you get it pretty good and are happy with it, then you're fine. Mine had the low end bog when I first got it, that's why the previous owner sold it. I was able to solve my problems with fuel screw setting and clip position changes. Also, a PowerNow is $100, but it makes a WORLD of difference in low-end power. When you get it right, it will be a lot different and better, so be careful not to loop it out. I have an 02 YZ 250F with a pipe, a ZipTy fuel screw, a PowerNow and a JD jetting kit and it will loop out it 2nd gear easy if you're not careful. Good luck. Just realized I quoted you YZF pilot jet numbers, are WR's different, anyone? Good luck!
  13. Blue4Life

    How to make a WR hold a line in a turn

    The Michelin S12 is a must, assuming you don't ride in rocky terrain, where your 739 would be great. I live in Illinois and ride in loam, sand and mud and the 739 is an engraved invitation to the emergency room. It's a matter of the right tool for the job. I think the Michelin S12 is a better tire than the D756, just because I've had both (and also a D755, which is also a soft terrain tire), but the Michelin just wears better. Get the tire Set the sag Play with fork height and clicker settings (see below) Practice your technique That's gonna be 80% of it. Then do the expensive stuff. If your clicker settings are off, your bike will do weird things. Be prepared to : 1) Write down where your clicker settings are on all adjusters, front and rear 2) Ride it for couple of minutes, see how it handles. 3) Go back to the pits and change something, but only one thing at a time (compression damping at the bottom of the fork, rebound is on top and a pain to get to on my YZF because the bars are in the way, but it can be done) 4) Go ride it again. If still not right, try again, adjusting it more in the same direction, or reverse the direction. I would go at least 4 clicks each time. Maybe a pro can feel a 1 click difference, but not me 5) Keep going, hopefully making it better each time. Sometimes you may make it worse. In this case, move it back to the previous setting where it was ok and then try another adjuster or just quit and ride and have fun. Be scientific about it and you'll make your bike better and learn alot I went on vacation to Texas in February and rode at a hard dusty track. We call it dry-slick. it's like riding on concrete will ball bearings on it. My bike was very skitterish and skaty, wouldn't hold a line at all. I hated it, it was really scary. Then I went back to the pits and did like I said above and soon, it was awesome. It made it much more fun and I was able to go much faster. Then I crashed in the whoops and broke my finger and wrist. Oh well! Good luck.
  14. Blue4Life

    05 250F Exhaust Question.

    avoid carbon fiber and titanium, the .47 oz it saves you won't make you faster, but it will make them much more fragile, which is bad. Also, best overalll performance relating to what? What is your proportion of MX to Woods to Desert? Are you a C rider or a pro? And don't get a loud system, it hurts our sport!
  15. Blue4Life

    some bozo

    but fat bars are much cheaper! Both require a different top clamp.