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About MattFisher

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    Riding, family

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  1. MattFisher

    Jacked up the knee

    Appreciate the input, as there are no shortage of guys in the dirtbike world with knee issues. I'm not so naive as to think that a true diagnosis could/should be made on the interweb. Last Wed night I jacked up my left knee. Did the MRI on Monday, today went to get the news: 1) Complete tear ACL. 2) Small full-thickness tear MCL. 3) Low-grade partial tear or sprain LCL. 4) Associated tear of the posterior attachment medial retinaculum with fissures of the patellar cartilage, probably traumatic. 5) Partial tear posterolateral corner structures. 6) Mild thinning of the medial compartment cartilage. 7) Moderate strain injury of the popliteus and soleus muscles. 8) Peripheral tear medial meniscus with meniscocapsular injury. 9) Meniscocapsular injury lateral meniscus. 10) Large effusion with fluid extravasation. I have a bit of swelling from the top of my knee down to my toes, though nothing really significant. I'm taking 200mg of ibuprofen twice a day mostly because my wife keeps telling me it'll help with pain and swelling (I very rarely take any medicines, no "tolerance" built up here). I ditched the crutches after 2 days since they are such a trouble I'd rather hop around on one foot like it's hokey-pokey time. My job is door-to-door sales, yes I recognize that activity will need to be curtailed to some degree. They are wanting me to use a brace and do physical therapy between now and a surgery date of 7/28. I am able to put weight on the limb, but normal walking isn't happening as my range of comfortable motion is rather limited and any lateral movement or twisting at the knee results in hitting the deck like hearing the screaming of allah akbar at a coffee shop in Jerusalem. I'm not implying the current plan is a bad one, just wanting to see if it's typical and look for suggestions on a great knee surgeon; this is just me getting another opinion. Thanks again.
  2. MattFisher

    Bike shuts downafter choke closed

    Clean or replace the pilot jet.
  3. "You're sure" they're in bed with these companies anyway? "You're sure" the winner is a payoff? Dodge has never made good engines or transmissions? Chrysler products always have been and always will be inferior to GM products. The new diesel in the half ton is a joke I'm betting. You spew that kind of nonsense out of your anus/mouth and then suggest I was talking out of my ass? Wtf? Does GM advertise in Motor Trend? Yep. So much for your ridiculous theory. MT was actually rather complimentary towards the GM trucks, they simply preferred the Ram. Just in case someone that actually reads (that seems to exclude 2strokeman12) wants to see what was reported by Motor Trend, here it is: http://www.motortrend.com/oftheyear/truck/1402_motor_trend_2014_truck_of_the_year_contenders/viewall.html Recalls- GM has recalled more vehicles so far than they've produced in 2014. Wikipedia: As of June 30, 2014, GM has issued 45 recalls this year, which have involved nearly 28 million cars worldwide and over 24.6 million in the United States. Go back, pull your GM glasses off and read what I wrote- it was correct. GM does not have a good track record when it comes to first year models, but that does not absolutely mean the new trucks are going to have issues. Fuel economy and power. After checking fueleconomy.gov, it looks like the GM 5.3 does indeed get 1mpg better than the 5.7 Ram. http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/Find.do?action=sbs&id=34115&id=33689 I was thinking of the new diesel, but GM does have a slight advantage there. Drivetrain- The 8 speed ZF Dodge has been used since 2008 in BMW V12 vehicles, has proven itself in the Chrysler 300, the Durango/Cherokee, and a HD version is in the new 707 horsepower Challenger Hellcat. Without a doubt, both Dodge and GM have made some turd transmissions over the years, we can certainly agree on that. The idea that Dodge doesn't build good motors is simply rubbish. That's such a generalized statement it can't be quantified. It's even less logical than suggesting that because the early 5 cylinder Colorado motors were crap that the new 5.3 must be too. That would be wrong, but at least it's specific. Safety- I didn't pull 2% out of my ass, it was an example of what the differences could be and I also stated it could be more significant. I also suggested he research the safety aspects of both vehicles. That would be far more logical than listening to: "The Dodge, I don't know much about." Really though, I don't care which truck he buys and as I stated the first time "Both trucks are really nice, you'll love whichever one you buy." Brendydoc- if you're looking at the 3/4 tom trucks, the MPG ratings are out the window. I don't even see them listed on fueleconomy.gov. If you're not towing much then the 1/2 ton models might be a better choice. Better MPG, better ride quality, handling, etc. The 3/4 models should be "tougher" if you're going to be rough on your new 40K toy. If you're looking at any 1/2 ton, the fully independent front suspensions will all take a beating if you're jamming down rough/dirt/gravel roads- they simply have more moving parts to wear out than a solid axle (but they ride better). All the GM trucks are fully independent front ends, btw. The 2014 2500 Ram has a new frame and very rugged 3 link front end. Unless you're looking at the little 5'8" beds, both trucks will fit your YZ in at an angle with the tailgate up. I think the white truck you took at picture of is the tiny bed. Grab a tape measure and find out if your bike will fit in there, I don't think it will but could be wrong.
  4. Dodge (Ram). The 1500 is the Motor Trend truck of the year in 2013 and 2014. Engine is good on both makes, but if you want MPG, the little diesel in the Dodge rules, and the Hemi makes more power and gets better mileage than the equivalent GM. Transmission- Dodge 8 speed < GM 6 speed. The last gen Dodge trans was not as good, but the 8 speed is really good. Reliability? Both should be good for 200K, but what does it say about a manufacture that's recalled more vehicles this year than they've built (GM)? Ouch. As for it being a good thing that the GM is redesigned, they don't exactly have a stellar rep for their first year offerings. Hopefully that isn't the case with they new trucks, but history has a way of repeating itself. However, if you're looking at the Dodge V6, I've been told by a local Dodge mechanic there is a known issue with the cylinder head on one side- I would avoid that motor. Safety? Unless you're listening to the salesperson at GM, the idea that the Dodge only has year 2000 safety features doesn't make sense (it wouldn't even be legal to sell). The GM may indeed have a better safety rating, but if it's important, you might research it. Could be 2% better offset crash numbers, or an additional passenger side airbag, or something minor (yes, it could be more significant than that). For example- years ago some of the Ford vehicles were getting a minor ding on their safety rating because they had tinted glass in the back half of the vehicle, the idea was that vision could be impaired the slightest amount. Silly, yes? I would guess that both trucks are quite safe and rather comparable in the real world when some idiot t bones you at a stop sign. I haven't checked the new trucks, but in the past the Dodge had a slightly longer bed than the GM or Ford. Both trucks are really nice, you'll love whichever one you buy.
  5. MattFisher

    The old freezer and torch

    Check your local supermarket or welding shop for dry ice. Super cold temps mean the bearings shrink a little bit more, making it a bit easier to tap them home. You can also pack the dry ice around the crank to make it drop into the bearings easier.
  6. I'm pretty sure that was a one year wonder bike and that pistons are rather hard to locate. If it's in good shape you may be far better off selling it somewhere like Mark's swapmeet and buying a newer bike to modify and ride.
  7. MattFisher

    02 RM 125 Carb Problems

    The condition of the plug, combined with the billowing white smoke suggests you're drowning the plug in transmission fluid. The good news is that you don't need to split the cases to change crank seals (except on some Kawi's). How does the piston look when viewing it through the exhaust port and intake port? You might as well pick up crank seals and plan on replacing them.
  8. MattFisher

    02 RM 125 Carb Problems

    Run the leakdown test first to figure out where the leak is coming from. A bit of blue smoke is normal on a 2 stroke, btw. If the piston looks great from the exhaust port (and intake port) then you could certainly gamble on fixing the air leak and running it. If it doesn't look great, pull the cylinder, and look at the underside of the piston (along with the rest of it.). There's loads of images and info on what a piston should look like, 5 minutes online and you should have a pretty good idea. If it's been run lean, there should be a spot of carbon on the underside of the piston caused by the crown getting so hot it burns the oil on the underside of the crown in addition to what's happening in the combustion chamber. This can also be assisted by not having an oil that matches your riding such as having an oil with a low flash point but you run the piss out of the bike (can you say- dunes). As for just replacing the rings, that depends on the condition of your piston and taking measurements of it would behoove you too. Once they wear, it's time to replace. When my son was on the 85, I put a new ring in every 5 hours and a fresh piston every 10. Kept it fresh, strong and reliable. My 250 motors could go for 10 times longer, but I don't ride anywhere nearly as hard as he does, bigger motors last longer, and I don't need every little bit of power possible. 180 psi on a 125 is fine, though that alone is not an indicator of the condition of the piston, just what kind of ring seal you have. An hour meter is a really nice and cheap insurance policy, btw.
  9. MattFisher

    Back to the "other" darkside...

    I run straight AvGas in my YZ250, my son's YZ125, ran it in my CR250, in his RM85's, and several other bikes. His YZ125 is pretty well built up by Eric Gorr, and one of the RM85's is about as fast a 85 this side of a full Team Green bike. The stuff works great. Stays fresh for months in a metal container (I use an old race gas can), jetting stays consistent, there is zero drool at the silencer, it smells great and it's not much more money than the swill at the pump. One of my friends just started running it in his thumpers. One of them is a pretty built CRF250, with piston, cam, heavily ported, etc. He's pleased with the AvGas for the same reasons I am. I do think with a 4 stroke the minimal amount of lead will increase the lifespan of the valves, as it acts as a cushion on the seats. Remember, the main reason we got rid of the lead was for the catalytic converters, as the lead ruined them. Not an issue on dirtbikes (for now- EPA).
  10. MattFisher

    02 RM 125 Carb Problems

    All the parts from Lowe's; I built mine out of all pvc, with a gauge located in the gas aisle. I used an expanding rubber freeze plug for the exhaust, shoved a bolt into the power valve vent line, and some Teflon tape over the pvc that fit into the reed manifold to make for a tighter fit. Total cost was about $20. I did find that over tightening the reed manifold to pvc pipe only caused it to leak, making readings impossible. Backed off the clamp and it was great. http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-14/17-leak-tester-2-stroke-13912/ http://martysgarage.info/2012/12/cheap-diy-two-stroke-leakdown-tester/ Really small air leaks can be almost intermittent in nature, affected by temp, vibration, humidity, etc. It's easier to deal with a big air leak than a tiny one; they're easier to find. While you have the pipe off the bike, look up the exhaust port at the piston for blowby. If you were running it at the dunes with an air leak, it's likely the piston needs to be replaced.
  11. MattFisher

    02 RM 125 Carb Problems

    Very small air leak. Buy or make a leakdown tester. Make sure you jet a bit richer for the dunes, the additional load and sustained WFO riding can be devastating when it runs a bit lean.
  12. MattFisher

    whats this sound 04rm125

    You are missing a pipe spring, though it sounds okay to me too.
  13. MattFisher

    82 RM250 piston blew - options?

    Just use the vin number. 1981 and later- 17 digit serial # - 10th number (2001 up) or letter (1981 to 2000) designates the year model. #1 is 2001, #2 is 2002, and so on. B = 1981, Z = 1982, D = 1983, E = 1985, F = 1985, G = 1986, H = 1987, J = 1988, K = 1989, L = 1990, M = 1991, N = 1992, P = 1993, R = 1994, S = 1995, T = 1996, V = 1997, W = 1998, X = 1999, Y = 2000. For rebuilding the crank, I would use one of these folks: http://www.goforwardmotion.com/2Strokes.php http://www.cookseycrank.com/ http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/Crankshaft%20Rebuilds.html If you can find a good deal on a new OEM crank that's a good bet. Hot Rod cranks seem to be okay, but don't use their bearings. Wiseco cranks are like Namura pistons- crap. For seals, get the prices from partzilla.com, but I've heard enough about parts taking forever to arrive from them that I would have rocky mountain or TT price match. I don't know the nut size. 23, 27mm?
  14. MattFisher

    82 RM250 piston blew - options?

    Likely there are local bearing shops near you. I've found that for the most part, standard size bearings are used in our bikes. I've also found that some sizes are really common in bikes. For example, I ordered several extra bearings for the water pump on one of my bikes to have as spares. Later, I split the cases on another one and found that the power valve used the same size bearing. The only difference was the seal, which was easily pried out. Perfect fit. Here are a couple places that I've ordered bearings from: http://www.vxb.com http://www.bocabearings.com Make sure you're getting the good quality ones, like Nachi, Koyo, SKF, etc. I have not found a good place to order seals from, but will at some point in time. Rockymountainmc.com has good prices on case splitters and crank installers, btw.
  15. MattFisher

    Rm85 oil?

    I would not suggest it. Outboard motors operate at a much lower temp, rpm and stress level than a dirtbike. As a result, the lubrication requirements are very different. The tc-w3 should have a much lower flash point, which will result in inferior lubrication once you get up to full operating temp and are wringing the RM out down a trail. You're also likely to have issues with significant carbon buildup on the powervalve and possibly on the rings.