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rmoore0852

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About rmoore0852

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    Male
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    Texas
  1. rmoore0852

    Engine Seized

    With the RPMs you were turning when it went, be sure to check your transmission gears VERY closely for damage. It is very likely that when it destroyed itself like that it blew metal into the transmission side and could have very easily chipped some gears.
  2. rmoore0852

    2008 250x facelift!

    Looks nice!! Where did you get the graphics, i'm having a hard time finding a nice set for a 2005 model?
  3. rmoore0852

    2008 250ex shocks

    Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, but is there any particular year Banshee shock to use on the rear? I have an 06 250EX for the wife, and it rides stiff. Looking at a Diamond J kit to use 400ex shocks on the front. Everyone seems to like the banshee shock on the rear, but what year shocks fit?
  4. rmoore0852

    Review of Rekluse Auto Clutch

    Depends on which clutch you have. Rekluse makes 3 different ones for our bikes. IF you have the cheapest one ($400 EXP), then it is NOT rated for a big bore kit. IF you have one of the more expensive ones, then setup is very critical. You are riding with added power in deep sand with lots of throttle. That is the hardest situation on a clutch. Also the rekluse is very sensitive to even small grooves in the clutch basket, and sand will make that even more apparent. I ride in sand all the time with mine and have never cooked a clutch, but no BB kit on mine.
  5. rmoore0852

    scotts steering stabiliser

    A little careful work with a razorblade and you can still get the crossbar pad to fit. I don't like riding without a crossbar pad, too dangerous.
  6. rmoore0852

    50 hours out of a set of Kibblewhites?

    Didn't see anything mentioned in the OP about checking the guides. Even fresh cut seats will chew up a set of valves if the guides are out of spec. The worn guides let the valves move around too much as it is coming back onto the seat.
  7. Starts easy when hot and will idle fine all day long. Maybe pilot is just a hair too big. Also has an alloy fuel screw in it, will look at a brass one. Will pull the bowl this weekend and see what the jets are. I almost don't want to mess with it since its running fine, but I am one of those OCD people that can't stand something not being right, even if it's running fine.
  8. OK, I have an 02 YZ250F that has always run great. Just did a top end as routine maintenance, so I know piston, valves, etc are all fine. Went back together and started just like usual. As I was doing the post-work adjusting, etc I checked the fuel screw setting. The bike has always ran like a top so I have honestly never had to adjust the fuel screw at all. I screwed it in all the way in order to count the turns out from closed. Fuel screw seemed to have no effect on the idle, including screwing it all the way in, which should have killed the engine. Nope, fuel screw closed and it just keeps idling away. Seems like it is running rich, because pulling the choke out instantly kills the engine. Pulling the hotstart dramatically increases the idle (engine not racing, but a significant increase in speed). Riding performance feels fine, no bogging, stuttering, etc... Is this indicative of a common problem? With the fuel screw closed completely, the engine has to be pulling fuel from somewhere it is not supposed to, right? I'm thinking maybe the choke plunger is not seating correctly or AP diaphram cracked, but don't want to just start throwing parts at it. Anybody run into this before? Next step is to pull it back out and tear down the carb looking for anything out of place, but hoping to get some ideas before tearing it down.
  9. rmoore0852

    how to remover honda crf 250r 06 water pump shaft

    You have to remove the right side cover. After that just remove the impeller and slide the shaft out from the back side. It's not that hard, just get a manual and follow it.
  10. rmoore0852

    pro x ss valves?

    I use the Pro X intake kit in every CRF250 I work on and have never had a problem at all. Have probably used 10+ sets in different bikes, including three of ours. Not a single problem. The exhausts are direct stock replacements and the intake kits come with the replacement springs. They last forever compared to the stock titanium ones. I have 90 hours on the set in my 250X and they haven't needed adjusting a single time.
  11. rmoore0852

    Another hard to start 07 250R

    Yeah, I though that maybe it was flooding when it sat. I know that a clogged vent line can flood it when the hot engine builds vapor pressure, pushing fuel into the engine as it sits. Like i said, I have tried kicking with wide open throttle (that's how you clear a carb bike also when flooded). Still no change. It is either a little too rich or a little too lean to start well, but just when the engine is in that warm window. Cold or hot it starts great. What's killing me is that I can't figure out if it is on the lean side or the rich side.
  12. rmoore0852

    Another hard to start 07 250R

    Hey all, I tried the search but my hard to start thread is a little different than most, so I thought I would throw this out and see if anyone has any ideas. 07 250R, about 100 hours on it. Just finished a top end. New OEM piston, rings, SS valves. Valve clearance is within spec. Stock exhaust. I am a very experienced mechanic, so kindly skip all the cam out of time, valves out of spec replies. Not trying to sound cocky, but I know that all that is right on. Stock jetting still, 42 pilot, 175 main. I have heard that these bikes are really finiky on the jetting. Bike runs great, starts great cold. Bike starts great when hot, one or two kicks, usually with hot start lever activated. Here is where it gets a little strange. Let the bike sit 10 minutes or longer, it is a PITA to start. Basically if the engine is still warm, but not hot like it was just running. I can't figure out if it is too rich or too lean. I have tried no throttle like normal, with and without the hot start. Have tried choke. Have tried kicking while holding wide open like starting a flooded bike. Nothing. I can eventually get it to start, but not before wearing myself out kicking it. I have messed around with between 1 and 2 turns on the fuel screw with no results. This bike is for my 13 year old. He's a big kid, but he is not going to be able to get this bike started with it acting like it is. My 04 250x has a JD jet kit and it starts first kick, no matter what temperature it is. Is the JD kit the answer on these bikes too???
  13. rmoore0852

    2007 CRF250r engine rebuild

    Parts washers from Harbor Freight are fine, with the right cleaner. Find Naptha somewhere around you. Usually a fuel distributor, propane delivery service, etc.... There is a Phillips 66 here that sells it for about $8 a gallon. They may have it for sale just calling it solvent. Tell them what you are looking for and start asking around. Naptha is clear, very little smell or fumes, and is about as flammable as diesel fuel, so not extremely dangerous. Usually the very smelly solvents also evaporate very quickly and are too harsh to use on aluminum parts. The Naptha evaporates slowly, as long as you remember to close the lid on the parts washer when you are done with it. I have had my HF parts washer full for a couple years, and am just now getting to the point where I probably need to add a couple gallons to it before the pump sucks air. Get the metal HF parts washer, a flow-through brush, a length of chemical resistant rubber hose, and about 4-5 gallons of Naptha and you will be set for awhile. I also use about a 6" length of 2x4 in the parts washer. Let it soak for awhile and then I use it to light our backyard fire pit. Once lit, it burns plenty long enough to light the other wood in there. Toss another piece of 2x4 in the washer for next time....
  14. rmoore0852

    Bike Wont Start Anymore :--( (please help)

    Re-adjusting the valves on these is just a quick fix. They may go many hours without ever moving, but once they start to move, they are toast. It won't start now because the intake valve(s) have zero'd again. Take it to a qualified mechanic and pull the head. Replace exhaust valves with stock and replace the intake valves with steel. They will last many hours before needing anything.
  15. rmoore0852

    torque the cylinder studs?

    Replaced the left side case on a 2005 CRF250R due to rock damage. The cylinder studs unscrewed out of the old case half surprisingly easily. As in, they were nowhere near as tight at the head nuts are torqued to. I do have a Honda service manual. While it gives measurement specs so you can measure the studs for stretching, the manual says nothing about locktite or torque values for installing the studs in the new case half. There does not appear to be any locktite on them from the factory. I am planning on a little bit of red locktite and just snugging them down, but sure don't want these things to loosen up. Any ideas on how to install these things properly???
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