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About Ttoks

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    TT Addict

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    mountain biking, RC cars, and haning with mates

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  1. Hmm depends on the bike, I've got an 08 KTM 450 EXC-R (the one known to have oil transfer problems) I put 15'000 KM (around 9'400 miles) on it without touching it, pulled it apart and the piston/bore clearance was arounf 18 thou, in other words ALOT, but it ran like a clock, burned no perceivable oil between services (around 500km/300miles), however I stuffed up while rebuilding it back on 2010 and it hasnt ran since, had other bikes and no motivation to get it running. 09 KX250F got around 160 hours with a piston and timing chain at 120, the bore clearance was only 7 thou though so it could have gone another 50 odd hours without touching it. had a number of other 4 strokes but have sold them before they needed work, so not really relevant.
  2. Ttoks

    Should I use the front brake?

    Then it sounds like you need to practice using the rear, go speak to any competent rider to get an idea why the rear brake is far more important on a dirtbike, stopping is nice, being in control of the bike is better.
  3. Ttoks

    Should I use the front brake?

    It's an interesting topic, the front brake is about 70% of your braking power, but that is all that it's good for, the rear brake is about controlling the bike, I can ride a bike with no front brake no worries, but I cant ride at all with no rear brake.
  4. Ttoks

    CR85R Broken Cylinder Exhaust port

    I repaired damage identical to that on my KTM 300 cylinder with a Liquid metal epoxy (i'll run out to my shed in a minute and take a picture of the stuff I used if i can find it), wrapped a few layers of electrical tape around the pipe without the o-rings on it, made sure the pipe was strait (maybe buy a new one if its bent) and set it in the exhaust port and then smeared the epoxy stuff to fill out the missing bit, let it set overnight (it actually takes about a week to fully set with such a large lump of it, but overnight makes it easy to work with) then used a air rotory bur grinder to blend the epoxy with the cylinder and smooth the inside of the exhaust port, it worked out really well. I also repaired the cases of a 74' suzuki TM250 that has a chain let go and mangle the cases, broke the bosses where the screws go through to bolt the cases together, did it in a similar way, built it up, let it partially set and blended it and re-drilled the hole, then let it fully set before carefully facing off the excess epoxy on the mating surfaces on a lathe. Of course look at the cylinder and see if it needs replacing first anyway, if the cylinder is shot, might as well just find another cylinder instead of going to the trouble.
  5. Ttoks

    9 yr old chain

    Only time that "cheap" chains are worthwhile is if your looking for every last bit of performance you can get, o rings suck 3-4hp at highway speeds, so on my face bikes I used to run no rings, but have 2chains, after each race I'd soak the just raced one in oil in a bucket, then remove it and hang to drop 2 days before reinstalling it and spray on dry graphite lube before the race. I've always had good luck with did and rk chains, but you really don't seem to need to replace it
  6. I do think it look's pretty damn good on me though
  7. My gear matches perfectly, old Hard Yakka overalls, complete with burn holes from welding slag for ventilation, fluro green mechanic's gloves and bolle' foam backed saftey glasses (rated to a 230mph impact from a 3 gram particle of course, saftey first) All *cough* generously donated by my workplace [emoji41] But a fox v4 helmet and SIDI crossfire boots, I don't mess around with helmet fit and quality boots.
  8. Ttoks

    9 yr old chain

    If the chain is still measuring in spec and the sprockets are good, just replace the master link and keep riding
  9. back when I was an apprentice I was working for a guy in his 30's (I was 16) and he decided he wanted to get back into riding, told me about all the riding he'd done in his younger years on a CR125 and CR250, so I figured he had at least the basics of riding down, like where the brakes are lol, he call's me up one Saturday saying he'd just picked up a brand new KTm300 and he's heading out to my parents place to go for a ride, I was like sweet, sounds good to me. Down the first track (a fairly easy, open trail mind you) there's a washout with plenty of room to ride around, he panics, grabs a handful of whiskey throttle and rides shoulder first into a tree doing 30-35 MPH and shattered his scapula into 9 pieces with a broken collar bone for good measure, all within a mile of my house, and I felt like an ass for assuming he knew what he was doing, now if i take anyone out for the first time it's on an open field regardless of how much riding they claim to have done years ago.
  10. Mine was a Yamaha PW50 when I was 3, my older brother (9 year's older then me) learnt to ride on it as well and my old man kept it for me and my younger brother to learn on, looked identical to this one.
  11. Ttoks

    Beginner Bike Crf 250r

    I think a WR250 or CRF250X would both be great choices for a new rider given the terrain you've said you'll be riding, if you had single trail in mind at all I think a 230 would make a FAR better choice for a first bike, and I think a 230 will still be a better bike to learn on, but riding sand, open trails and learning to jump on one you will outgrow it quickly. Even after 22 years riding just about every type of bike you can think of, I still have an absolute blast on a 230 in single track, but I own a CRF250R and YZ250FX for they're versatility.
  12. Ttoks

    2008 CRF250R, hard starting while cold

    okay, i've got the cold starting issue sorted, i neglected to clean under the baffle plates when i re-built the carby, so it was sucking a heap of crud into the pilot jet and blocking it, now it start's first kick both hot and cold. Now I just need to figure out why it flood's everytime I time i go's over a log or get some air off of a washout or go over some whoop's, initially i thought it had to be float hight, but i've tried adjusting the float from low enough to touch the baffle plates to all the way up into the carb housing with no difference, still flood's and cough's and blubber's like the pilot jet is 3 sized to big everytime the rear of the bike get's kicked up, i thought maybe it had to be missing plastic baffle or something but no after going through a part's diagram i'm not missing any parts in the carb either, trying a carby from a KTM 250 EXC-F which net's massive lean bog (obviously, same pilot and main jet from the CRF carb, but i haven't changed anything else, just trying it as a process of elimination) and the old school guy's keep telling me this fan-dangled fuel injection is to complicated... young idiots like me think otherwise lol
  13. Ttoks

    2008 CRF250R, hard starting while cold

    Actually i just remembered i've got a spare head for it sitting there with good valves in it, i'll throw that on and see if it fixes it, should tell me if it's the valve seat's anyway.
  14. Ttoks

    2008 CRF250R, hard starting while cold

    this sounds like a possibility, the cold start problem started with the stock valves and hasnt gotten better with the SS valves, it's always been a bit hard to start cold from new, but not as bad as it is now. yeah the hot start increases the idle very nicely when it does eventually go, i just put a 42 pilot in it to try with no change, cannot get it to start cold.
  15. the current situation. SS intake valves, .005 intake and .011 exhaust clearance. CRF250X cam original piston and rings still in spec (roughly 50 hours, has been my back up enduro bike) on the carby side rebuild carb, all seals, fuel valve ect the long fuel screw Boysen quick-shot 3 Accelerator pump cover 40 pilot jet unknown slow jet (brass is to tarnished to read) Stock needle on 3ed clip stock main jet. (whatever it is, again to tarnished to read, but i think it's a 188) the bike is near impossible to start cold unless I roll start it, hot it start's very easily even when flooded (thanks to the X cam i'm guessing) I'm also have a problem where the bike seem's to flood and cough very badly when i roll off the throttle, and try to get back on, having the quickshot turned all the way in (simulating the smallest leak jet) makes to problem better, but doesn't remove the problem, telling my i'm way to rich somwhere. I've found alot of conflicting info around the place, so i'm hoping that someone here who has owned one of these can give me a starting point on where to go with the jetting, as I'm lost, I've been riding FI bikes for to long not having to worry about fiddling with shit