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About sirthumpalot

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  1. sirthumpalot

    500 EXC - jumps test

    What year is your bike? It's normal and OK to use all of the travel, so don't adjust the clickers for the sole purpose of trying to keep the rear wheel off of the fender. If it's just lightly rubbing I wouldn't worry about it. If it's rubbing hard then that's worth more of a look, but for light touching I personally wouldn't worry too much. Double check that the rubber bottom out pad is still on the shock shaft, and that the fender and subframe are bolted on properly and not coming loose. Also some tires are taller than others, so it's possible that you're running a tall tire and you just don't quite have the clearance when bottomed out. I see you're in Saudi Arabia, what tire comes on your bike there? Going by my 2014, if you start pushing harder the front wheel may lightly rub the header too, not a big deal, at least for the 2014 model year.
  2. sirthumpalot

    500 EXC - jumps test

    Adjust the clickers before you do anything else. First make sure that you're at the stock settings, from there you can turn up the compression to reduce bottoming. You can also add oil to the forks if the clickers aren't enough. By all means feel free to have them revalved for moto if you want, but stock it is definitely ridable for just having a fun day at the track, or at least my 2014 model is. I'm 160# and ride my 500exc at the track on occasion. Yes it's on the soft side, and yes it bottoms easier than a bike setup for moto, and yes it's easier to go faster on a bike built for moto, but for just a fun day at the track it's fine and I personally don't have any harsh bottoming issues with the stock suspension. When you say bottom, do you mean it's using all the travel (which is fine) or are you getting a harsh clank that is painful? There's a big difference.
  3. sirthumpalot

    Water in my oil

    If water got in via a bad gasket, then oil would also be coming out that same gasket. Most likely he submerged it or tried to start it with the vent line under water. Get the water out of there asap before anything rusts. If it's a bike you care a lot about, maybe pop the right side case cover off and check if there's any sand in there. Water is going to have sand/dirt in it, and that can tear up your motor.
  4. sirthumpalot

    Quieter alternatives to removing the baffle

    Good for you for wanting to be responsible! Less sound = more ground for sure! If you have the budget, see if an FMF Q series exhaust is available for your bike. They have about the best performance to sound ratio of any exhaust I've seen. Restricting the size of the outlet can definitely quiet it down, but usually also takes a lot of HP with it. Exhausts like the FMF Q are different inside and are better at deadening sound without losing power.
  5. sirthumpalot

    How does this MRD exhaust packing look?

    If the packing is hard and crusty, or oil soaked, then it's done. For best results it needs to be soft and fluffy. I've had good luck with the stringy kind. Save yourself a headache and buy the stringy packing that is in a sewn bag and has a cardboard tube through the middle. You slide the whole thing over the muffler core, slide out the cardboard tube then stuff the remaining parts in the can. It saves you a lot of frustration. This is what it looks like, find one that fits your muffler:
  6. sirthumpalot

    More on FCR carb idleing issue...

    Just one more variable; there is a seal on the slide of the FCR carburetor, and it's a wear item that needs periodic replacement. It's not a bad idea to replace that seal.
  7. sirthumpalot

    Castrol oil deposits

    I've wondered this myself.. I have a bottle of Mobile 1 synthetic that was on my shelf for more than 15 years, unopened. It turned very dark brown, like used oil. I didn't trust it in my expensive motors so it was added to the chainsaw bar oil pile, but it was interesting that it turned so dark just sitting unopened. If it were free I would send it off for analysis just to see the result.
  8. sirthumpalot

    First bike

    That bike can definitely get the job done, but it might actually be more fun on a lesser bike. Especially in the trails if the going gets tight. The old saying that it's more fun to ride a slow bike fast than to ride a fast bike slow often applies.
  9. sirthumpalot

    2015 WR250F Cooling Fan

    If you have a lot of riding time in front of you in the immediate future, I would bend it back as little as possible to get things working. While they are durable, the more you bend it the more likely that you'll spring a leak. When you have time off, check out a place like Mylers and see what they would charge relative the cost of a replacement.
  10. sirthumpalot

    Castrol oil deposits

    I used Golden Spectro brand oil for years and it did that but worse. I never did any research to figure out what it was but figured it was an additive of some kind that was falling out over time. What's interesting is I have seen that with motorcycle specific oils, but I have never noticed it with oils targeted at cars/trucks. So I'm guessing it must be some motorcycle specific additive?
  11. sirthumpalot

    Bent subframe

    I can't see your picture, but the quick and dirty method is to brace the bike on the ground and basically jump on the subframe to bend it back. This is more of a save your ride day move than a proper fix, but if you're thinking about junking the subframe anyway then give it a shot.
  12. sirthumpalot

    Battery issue / starting issue

    I would not use any tender on a lithium battery. Lead acid will last longer with a battery tender, but a battery tender on a lithium battery will shorten its life. Lead acid batteries last longest when they are fully charged, and they also have a reasonably high self discharge rate (they go dead just sitting), so a battery tender will keep it charged and increase the life. Lithium on the other hand self discharge at a much slower rate than lead acid (it takes a lot longer to go dead just sitting), and they actually last longer when they are not kept fully charged. A lithium battery is actually happiest at around 40% charge. Look down at table 3 on this page. So long story short; for lead acid use a battery tender, for lithium do not use a tender and do not top it up to 100% for storage.
  13. sirthumpalot

    Can you identify this diode? (Pics)

    I understand taking it to the dealer, sometimes it's a lot more fun to have a running bike than to have a few more bucks in the bank. Be sure to ask them what the problem was so that you learn for next time, and let us know too!
  14. sirthumpalot

    How not to get screwed when buying dirt bike?

    Have fun with it! Worst case, you'll learn something. When I was a kid my Dad let me save up and buy my second bike myself, I paid $75 for a 1971 Honda SL70. It was a rust bucket, leaked and burned oil, had a cracked frame (neighbor welded it for me) but I rode it until it came apart inside then took it apart and learned a bunch. It was a great learning experience, plus it made me appreciate a new bike even more when I was finally able to buy a brand new one!
  15. sirthumpalot

    Can you identify this diode? (Pics)

    In regards to the crinkling sound, is it the exhaust cooling off? Sometimes when the starter motor itself goes bad, the symptoms can be that it gets very weak, and that it draws a ton of current. Assuming you know that your battery is in good condition; put your volt meter on the battery and press the start button. If the voltage drops really low, like 8v or lower, then that's a sign the motor might be bad. A better test is to get a current clamp meter and put it around one of the big fat wires that goes to the starter, and measure how much current the motor draws when you push the button. The service manual will have the expected values, if it's drawing a lot more than it should then the motor is likely bad. Typically when the solenoid/relay goes bad it will either stick, or won't work at all. Does the bike have a kick starter? Another possibility, not common but not unheard of, is for something to fail on the compression release. If that's not working, even a good starter probably won't be able to spin the motor over. If you have a kick starter and you're able to kick it easily then the compression release is working fine.