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About sirthumpalot

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  1. sirthumpalot

    KTM350 XCF and newer rider - advice?

    You've got a snappy bike, a great bike but not the most beginner friendly. My buddy bought the same bike, he had lots of street experience but no off-road experience and I watched him struggle. There is an old saying, it's more fun to ride a slow bike fast than to ride a fast bike slow. It's also easier to learn on a slower less intimidating bike. I guess my point is, if you start over maybe try an EXC instead of the XCF. BUT before you get rid of it, there are several things you can do to make it more friendly so try those first. First I would definitely get the G2 throttle tamer, I use one on my 500 and it made the bike a lot more fun to ride in the tight tricky stuff. With the suspension, if you can stay within the recommended settings then it will likely be more predictable, but do use the settings recommended for comfort. Note that raising the forks up in the clamps will make the bike more twitchy. If you're tall enough, keep the forks all the way down in the clamps to slow down the steering, which will probably make you feel more in control until you get used to it. Tighten up the steering stem so there is a little drag on the bearings when you turn the bars side to side. Not a lot, just a little. That will also help make it feel less twitchy. Also get a quiet exhaust that's a little corked up. Check if an 350EXC exhaust will fit, and if so find a used one on ebay. That should mellow the power out a bit, and bonus it will be quieter! Check how your Rekluse is setup. Thinking out loud, I think it will be more manageable if you set it up to lock up at lower RPM, if it's not already setup this way. The power will be less abrupt at lower RPM and I think it will feel more forgiving. You can also go up 1 tooth on the front sprocket, or down a couple teeth on the rear sprocket. That's going to make the gearing a little taller which can mellow it out a bit, but it also stretches the gears out a bit which you may or may not like depending on where you ride. Also check if a map switch will give you the option of a more mellow map on your bike. And/or check if the dealer can/will program a more mellow map into the ECU for you. If money is no object then you can also check out a Vortex ECU which you can program any way you want, but that's where things start getting more expensive. If money is no issue, take a test ride on an EXC to see if you like it better. Otherwise try these things, hopefully they will help.
  2. sirthumpalot

    ADVICE: KLX 110L vs KLX 140

    I have a KLX110L, and TTR110 for my wife and my son. I must admit that riding the KLX around a mini bike track bumping elbows with the kids is a blast. It's a fantastic teaching tool that you can use to show the kids the short way around the track, and it's fun to see them pick up on things. It's also fun to ride something that you can more or less hold wide open. But anywhere other than the mini bike track, I most definitely prefer a full sized bike. I've ridden the KLX through the woods chasing my son around on his TTR, but it gets painful quickly. Not as bad as when I used to chase him on my Z50R, but painful none the less. I'm 6' about 160#. If you want something more mellow, and depending on where and how you ride, check out bikes like the CRF230 or TTR230. They may still be too small, but they should have more room than a 140 and still be mellow enough to not be intimidating. What type of riding do you do?
  3. sirthumpalot

    83 RM 80 Won't start ...

    In the top picture I can't see the timing marks on the cases to see how they line up with the stator. By backwards we mean rotated 180 degrees. See if you can find a manual that describes the correct way for the stator to go in, or rotate it 180 degrees and give it a kick.
  4. sirthumpalot

    83 RM 80 Won't start ...

    That is an excellent point, make sure the stator isn't in wrong. Some of them will go in 180 degrees opposite of how they should, and look correct.
  5. sirthumpalot

    83 RM 80 Won't start ...

    Edit --> re-read your post, reeds and timing and critters in the exhaust were already mentioned. Assuming the piston is in correct (usually there is an arrow or dot indicating the exhaust side), maybe assume it's just horribly flooded. Turn off the gas and drain the carburetor, then with the throttle wide open and the spark plug in or out, kick it or push it around (in gear) a bit. That will clear it out. If you remove the spark plug, be sure to put it back in the boot and ground it to the frame, or hold the kill switch, so the ignition system has a way to dump the spark energy. After that, put the spark plug in, shoot a squirt of starting fluid down the open carburetor and give it a kick. If it doesn't fire up with starting fluid then something is really wrong. If it does fire up, turn on the gas and repeat with the starting fluid. It doesn't take much. Also put in a new spark plug. If the old one has a crack, it might appear OK outside the motor, but could short and not spark once screwed in. It could also be really really bad crank seals, but usually it will still start, and if the clutch side seal is bad it will run but burn a ton of oil.
  6. sirthumpalot

    Coolant overflow tank

    This guy also makes an add-on recovery tank that is very reasonably priced. He's a local TT guy too: https://doublediamondracing.com/information
  7. sirthumpalot

    What's wrong with this bike !?

    What happens when you use the hot start knob when it's hot? Hot carbureted 4-strokes can be hard to start unless you lean them out (opposite of the choke), there should be a hot start knob on the carburetor. When it's hot, pull that before you kick.
  8. Quiet for sure. I live in a place where there is almost zero riding areas left, and noise was on of the contributing factors.
  9. sirthumpalot

    The TPS adjustment thread

    I'm sorry for the late reply, somehow I missed your message. Did you get everything sorted?
  10. sirthumpalot

    Anti-theft/Theft Protection Ideas?

    In Europe more people ride motorcycles daily than in the US, so lots of the bike security stuff is European. I don't like to show my garage online, but here's how we all locked our bikes together on a camping trip. You do it the same way in the garage, just with the ground anchor at the end instead of a truck at the end. The chain is wrapped around a spoke on my truck wheel, through all of the bike frames, then looped around the frame on the last bike on the left. Note that the chain I listed is thick so it can be a challenge to get through the frame on some bikes: The chain links are big and you can stick them through other chain links at any point to make a loop, then the lock goes through the last link, like this: This guy explains the ground anchor really well. Basically it's a big chunk of steel bolted to the ground with expansion bolts, and a big steel cover prevents access to the bolts when there is a chain through it. Mine came with BB's that you can hammer into the expansion bolt ends to make it very difficult to unbolt them (they are allen style), but it sounds like they don't include those anymore. It's quite a chunk of steel, someone will have to work at it for a while to get through it. The kit comes with everything but the chain (bolts, drill bit, hose, allen key), it's a nice kit.
  11. sirthumpalot

    Anti-theft/Theft Protection Ideas?

    Anything from the local big box store is junk, anything with the master name on it is junk. Chains and locks are not created equal, there are tons of videos on youtube showing why. Get real hardware. Visit lockitt.com. This is what I did: 16mm chain: http://lockitt.com/Lockitt/SRCH.html?Search=CHPS16 Pair of abus locks keyed alike (one for each end, so you don't have to double the chain): http://lockitt.com/ABUS-Granit-37RK60-Padlock.html Ground anchor: http://lockitt.com/double-doofer-anchor.html Put the chain through the frames of the bikes, not the wheels, loop the end around the last bike frame. I won't lie, that chain is a PITA to work with, but it's solid. Keep it off the ground if possible, that makes it more difficult for the bad guy to attack. GPS trackers are relatively cheap these days and you can hide it well if you're creative, but be aware the ones that talk to satellites (Spot Trace) the batteries go dead quickly if the bike is stored inside (but last many months if outside). You can wire it to the bike battery with an adapter and use a battery tender to keep the bike battery charged. Get an alarm system with layered zones. Contacts on all doors/windows, motion detectors in every room/hallway, glass break detectors especially near glass doors. Get the one that calls in over a cell connection, not a land line. Insurance is cheap, I pay I think $160/yr for all coverage. Impact windows are spectacular if you can afford them. If someone really wants your stuff, they will get it. But if you make your stuff more difficult to get than the next guys, then hopefully they'll pass you up and keep going, so that's your goal. Make your stuff more difficult than the next guys to take, then hope for the best.
  12. sirthumpalot

    The TPS adjustment thread

    You are correct that the settings vary from bike to bike. They vary mostly because on the current bikes changing the idle will change the TPS reading, and it's normal for different bikes to have slightly different idle settings. But to set the baseline typically the service manual will give you a specific value to set when the throttle plate is fully closed. Then you set the idle and that will put you back at the factory setting, if that's your goal.
  13. sirthumpalot

    The TPS adjustment thread

    With the 17's and 18's the TPS adjustment works great if the bike is close to stock. But if you open the exhaust and the intake then a tuner is really needed to get enough fuel. A TPS tweak can still help make the bottom end perfect after adding a tuner. I'm selling a ton of TPSTools for the new bikes and getting good feedback. Also with the 17's and newer you cannot just pick a TPS number. Changing the idle moves the throttle plate which affects the TPS reading. So all you do is take an initial reading to see where it's at, then go up or down 0.02V at a time testing in-between. Just like adjusting the fuel screw on a carburetor (for those of us old enough to remember carburetors), up a little, down a little until you find the best spot, nothing to it.
  14. sirthumpalot

    The TPS adjustment thread

    Can anyone tell me what the factory stock setting (throttle plate closed) is for the 2016 450sxf?
  15. sirthumpalot

    1985 XR100 Timing Marks

    On those old XR's, look through the window in the flywheel with a flashlight as you turn the flywheel. When the points are at their widest point, set the gap to about the thickness of the paper used in a matchbook. That will be good enough to make it run fairly well. Check for a spark. If you have a spark then next check the compression. If it's low, check the valve clearances. If they tightened up then the compression will be low and it will be very difficult to start. If you have spark and compression but it still won't start then shoot a little starting fluid down the carb and give it a kick. If it starts for a moment then stalls, then you have a carburetor problem. If it doesn't start at all then go back and recheck spark and compression. Also if you don't know the history of the engine, check the valve timing. And do make sure you have the proper flywheel.