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About sirthumpalot

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  1. In Europe more people ride motorcycles daily than in the US, so lots of the bike security stuff is European. I don't like to show my garage online, but here's how we all locked our bikes together on a camping trip. You do it the same way in the garage, just with the ground anchor at the end instead of a truck at the end. The chain is wrapped around a spoke on my truck wheel, through all of the bike frames, then looped around the frame on the last bike on the left. Note that the chain I listed is thick so it can be a challenge to get through the frame on some bikes: The chain links are big and you can stick them through other chain links at any point to make a loop, then the lock goes through the last link, like this: This guy explains the ground anchor really well. Basically it's a big chunk of steel bolted to the ground with expansion bolts, and a big steel cover prevents access to the bolts when there is a chain through it. Mine came with BB's that you can hammer into the expansion bolt ends to make it very difficult to unbolt them (they are allen style), but it sounds like they don't include those anymore. It's quite a chunk of steel, someone will have to work at it for a while to get through it. The kit comes with everything but the chain (bolts, drill bit, hose, allen key), it's a nice kit.
  2. Anything from the local big box store is junk, anything with the master name on it is junk. Chains and locks are not created equal, there are tons of videos on youtube showing why. Get real hardware. Visit This is what I did: 16mm chain: Pair of abus locks keyed alike (one for each end, so you don't have to double the chain): Ground anchor: Put the chain through the frames of the bikes, not the wheels, loop the end around the last bike frame. I won't lie, that chain is a PITA to work with, but it's solid. Keep it off the ground if possible, that makes it more difficult for the bad guy to attack. GPS trackers are relatively cheap these days and you can hide it well if you're creative, but be aware the ones that talk to satellites (Spot Trace) the batteries go dead quickly if the bike is stored inside (but last many months if outside). You can wire it to the bike battery with an adapter and use a battery tender to keep the bike battery charged. Get an alarm system with layered zones. Contacts on all doors/windows, motion detectors in every room/hallway, glass break detectors especially near glass doors. Get the one that calls in over a cell connection, not a land line. Insurance is cheap, I pay I think $160/yr for all coverage. Impact windows are spectacular if you can afford them. If someone really wants your stuff, they will get it. But if you make your stuff more difficult to get than the next guys, then hopefully they'll pass you up and keep going, so that's your goal. Make your stuff more difficult than the next guys to take, then hope for the best.
  3. You are correct that the settings vary from bike to bike. They vary mostly because on the current bikes changing the idle will change the TPS reading, and it's normal for different bikes to have slightly different idle settings. But to set the baseline typically the service manual will give you a specific value to set when the throttle plate is fully closed. Then you set the idle and that will put you back at the factory setting, if that's your goal.
  4. With the 17's and 18's the TPS adjustment works great if the bike is close to stock. But if you open the exhaust and the intake then a tuner is really needed to get enough fuel. A TPS tweak can still help make the bottom end perfect after adding a tuner. I'm selling a ton of TPSTools for the new bikes and getting good feedback. Also with the 17's and newer you cannot just pick a TPS number. Changing the idle moves the throttle plate which affects the TPS reading. So all you do is take an initial reading to see where it's at, then go up or down 0.02V at a time testing in-between. Just like adjusting the fuel screw on a carburetor (for those of us old enough to remember carburetors), up a little, down a little until you find the best spot, nothing to it.
  5. Can anyone tell me what the factory stock setting (throttle plate closed) is for the 2016 450sxf?
  6. On those old XR's, look through the window in the flywheel with a flashlight as you turn the flywheel. When the points are at their widest point, set the gap to about the thickness of the paper used in a matchbook. That will be good enough to make it run fairly well. Check for a spark. If you have a spark then next check the compression. If it's low, check the valve clearances. If they tightened up then the compression will be low and it will be very difficult to start. If you have spark and compression but it still won't start then shoot a little starting fluid down the carb and give it a kick. If it starts for a moment then stalls, then you have a carburetor problem. If it doesn't start at all then go back and recheck spark and compression. Also if you don't know the history of the engine, check the valve timing. And do make sure you have the proper flywheel.
  7. Thanks for the feedback! Flameouts can be caused by both being too lean and being too rich, so if you still see flameouts, don't be afraid to also go lower on the TPS. Please let us know how your first test ride goes!
  8. OK great. For the guys who own one of these bikes, would there be any interest in a plug-in module that would give you the ability to increase oil output? Just thinking out loud, but maybe a little box with an adjustment knob or screw that could be turned to select the ammount of oil boost. Maybe 0% to 50% boost range or something like that.
  9. Thanks for the info. Is the oil pump then controlled by the ecu electronically?
  10. On this bike specifically, is the oil ratio set mechanically or electronically?
  11. I would love to hear feedback from anyone who has used the TPSTool on an MX bike or two, can anyone share their experience? There is one great feedback on Amazon (click here) from someone who used it on both an SX and a KX, but looking for more!
  12. @veetwo tls - You might try some of the adventure bike forums, there are most likely not a lot of guys here familiar with the 950. Maybe try the LC4 forum here at TT (click here) or maybe, etc.. I hope this helps!
  13. Check the service manual for your carb TPS settings. Some of them were set using the Ohms meter instead of voltage, though the voltage method should still work once you determine which wires you should be testing. It's possible the bike would need to be running to get voltage to the TPS. One wire will be ground, one will be power supply (+5V) and the other will be feedback. Put your black multi meter probe on something metal on the motor, and use the red probe to test each wire on the TPSTool. One will be 0V, one will be +5 and the other will be something under 1V. Now put the black probe in the wire than read 0V, and the red probe in the wire that read less than 1V, those are the 2 wires you want to work with. All of that said; on many of the carbed bikes the TPS setting doesn't make a whole lot of difference, just minor timing changes. Some of the carbed adventure bike guys tell me that if the TPS is off then the bike really has problems, but on many of the single cylinder carbureted bikes it doesn't seem to make as much difference.
  14. For anyone finding this thread, the more active thread on the same topic is found here:
  15. @SMarquez- On the newer bikes you can't really compare TPS numbers directly because changing the idle will also change the TPS reading, and while most bikes have the idle in the same general area, they're not likely to be identical. What I recommend is take the original reading (0.50v in your case) and move it up by 0.02v at a time, and give it a test. So move yours to 0.52v and give it a test. Keep moving it up 0.02v at a time as long as you see improvement. I'm guessing you'll find the best spot after just a couple of adjustments. You are correct that jumping from 0.50 to 0.64 is a pretty big jump and could likely be too much. Good luck and let us know where you end up!