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About ButchWR250F

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    TT Silver Member

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    Riding my motorcycles
  1. ButchWR250F

    rekluse z'start'pro autoclutch

    Hi Discolobo, I have a Rekluse Pro auto clutch on my '07 Wr250F. The pro version comes with a new center clutch basket. It has been designed to work with the clutch lever and cable, so you leave them in place with the pro, as opposed to removing them with the original z-start. You do NOT need to order the lever perch adjuster. It also comes with all the metal clutch plates. You use the stock friction plates. You can use the clutch lever like regular, but the auto portion works so good I never do. I ride enduros & hare scrambles too. I mostly just use the lever as an on/off switch. Come to a stop & pull it in, then just let go of it & twist the throttle & let the Rekluse do all the work. I love them!!!!!
  2. ButchWR250F

    rebuilding a 250f....questions

    Well, I own my own repair shop, so I've rebuilt quite a few engines. I have a lot of customers that use the YZ250F engine in racing go-karts, so I'm VERY familiar with the YZ250F engine. That being said, if the valves have moved (need to be shimmed), they are JUNK, and need to be replaced. On most of the Yamaha's I've rebuilt, the intakes go first (usually the outside 2 intakes). The exhaust's last longer, but will wear with time. So if you have needed to shim the valves, they are worn out, and need to be done. DONT LAP TITANUIM VALVES. It'll ruin them!!!!!! You'll also need the correct valve spring compresser so you don't ruin the head. While you're at it, replace all 5 valve springs and all 5 valve stem seals. The cam chain in the YZ250F is very lightweight, and they stretch like rubberbands. Change it. You can't have too new a cam chain. If the piston has been in there for more than 50 hrs, change it. If you race MX, then drop that to 25 hrs. You DEFINATELY need a good set of feeler gauges. Order a set from your local Yamaha shop. The middle intake valve is in a very tight area, and the feeler gauges from most anywhere else are too wide to fit. If yo cut them narrower, you risk rolling the edge over & making them thicker than they really are. The Yamaha shop can get you special narrow gauges that will fit. A nice performance upgrade would ba a Wiseco High compression piston kit. These work very well. There is al;so High compression piston kits from JE or CP, that work nicely too. If you put one of those in, count on replacing them every 25 hrs MAX. I've had the best luck with Yamaha base & head gaskets. If you are going to do a lot of engines then get the shim kit. If not, then it's a lot of money that you won't get much use out of.
  3. ButchWR250F

    How to drain/clean carburetor?

    Some of the CRF's have the drain, some don't. There's a place for the screw, but Honda decided to cheap out & not put one there. If there's a drain screw (the allen bolt one) use it. If not, then the 17mm plug works too, but is really messy. If you only use the allen bolt drain, there will still be fuel (or water) in the 17mm plug, so you have to remember to remove it too.
  4. ButchWR250F

    Rekluse pro in 290 set up help.

    The Pro version is supposed to clamp harder than the older z-start, so you shouldn't have too much of a problem with it slipping even with the 290 upgrade. What I'd do is set it up with all the balls installed, and the medium spring. Try that to begin with. What you'll need to pay attention to is if it is slipping. If there it ANY slip, you'll have to start adding the tungsten carbide (TC) balls to it to help it clamp harder. If you decide you need them, I'd start out with only 3 TC's in there (evenly spaced around the plate along with the regular balls). Good Luck!!!! Remember, if you have any questions, call Rekluse. Their tech support is excellent!!!!
  5. What ususally happens is the swingarm pivot bolt rusts to the inside of the bearing races, and they can get pretty stuck. I have had to go as far as putting the whole frame/swingarm/motor assy in the press to get it to move. Hopefully you won't have to go that far. Put the nut back on and twist it until it's almost all the way on, but not all the way. This allows you to beat the cr@p out of it without damaging the threads on the bolt. Then start wailing away. Sometimes some heat helps, just don't heat it too hot, or you'll ruin the bolt. Use a propane torch, they don't get too hot. You just need to get it move the first little bit, then you can remove the nut, and drive it the rest of the way out. Good Luck!!!!
  6. ButchWR250F

    Smaller battery on WR

    I ran one of those for years on my '03. I never tried putting the lights back on, so I'm not sure about burning the stator out. It still charges the battery too, so the voltage regulator is working fine too. It was and still is running perfectly with that smaller battery in it (at least so sayeth the new owner). If you want, I think I have pix....
  7. ButchWR250F

    How to remove a broken bearing race

    Sounds good to me. Just use a hand saw and be careful you don't cut too deep, or the swingarm will be toast.
  8. ButchWR250F

    fuel petcock inner oring

    If you go to your local bike shop they can order for you a petcock rebuild kit that has everything in it to fix this. I just did the one on my old '03 before I sold it. I think it cost like $15.00 or something like that. The problem with "O" rings from the hardware store is they aren't the right type of rubber, and gasoline will eat them away after a short while, making it drip like crazy.
  9. ButchWR250F

    front brake locked up coming into a berm

    I'm guessing it's not a brand new bike, but is new to you. I'm guessing that because it sounds like the caliper has frozen up on the pins it's supposed to slide on that allow it to stay centered over the rotor. The caliper needs to be taken off the caliper mount & have the pins cleaned & greased occasionally so this doesn't happen. If the caliper doesn't move easily side to side on the pins it sits on, then the pads will move (bend) the rotor when you apply the brake. The pins are replaceable on the caliper. Hopefully you can get it apart enough to unscrew the pins from the caliper. If the front is messed up like that, probably the rear is too, and may be why the rear brake is so touchy.
  10. ButchWR250F

    Throttle stuck wide open, need help

    It's not supposed to happen with the stock throttle stop in place, even with the top cover removed, but what's happened is you have turned the throttle bellcrank too far and have gotten the lever for the accelerator pump to go past center on the cam that drives it. What should fix it is to turn the throttle bellcrank a little further open, and using something like a dental pick to move the blue lever (for the accelerator pump) to the left so it'll go back onto the cam (instead of sitting on top of the cam & holding it in place). This should allow the throttle slide lifter to go back down where it belongs. Oh yeah, you'll have to do this while holding the throttle slide in place. Make sure you don't put the removable part of the throttle slide on upside down, or it won't wanna start. There's an "M" stamped on the plate. If it's upside down it'll be a "W" and there will not be a relief for the pilot circuit to pull thru at the bottom of the slide.
  11. ButchWR250F

    Proud new owner, will not start

    The older carbs had removable seats for the float needle. All of the newer ones (unless they changed back in '08) the seat is pressed into the body of the carb, and these aren't replaceable.
  12. Well, I've been racing hare scrambles on 4 strokes for years, and haven't blown one up yet. In fact, I just raced one last saturday (first race on the new '07) I think you'll be just fine.
  13. ButchWR250F

    Will it????

    Yes it sure will! It's like getting a new bike. You can start the beast with your hand!!!! (I do it all the time to amaze the naysayers). Plus you can bumpstart the bike in any gear, without even trying.
  14. ButchWR250F

    03 yz250f cutting out/sputtering

    If it's with the throttle open somewhere around 1/4 open, it's normal. Something to do with the ignition map in the CDI box. Mark the grip and the throttle housing with a sharpie with the throttle closed, 1/4, 1/,3/4, & full open. Then you can look at the grip and see where the throttle is open to. This is kinda a known problem with that era of YZ/WR 250F, but it's throttle position related, not RPM related. You can unhook the TPS (throttle position sensor) as a test & try it. It needs the signal from the TPS for the bike to perform well throughout the rev range, so don't leave it that way, but if it stops sputtering , then it's the CDI causing it. You can change the ignition to an aftermarket ignition (Vortex comes to mind) and that will solve it, plus has some neat ignition curves to try.
  15. ButchWR250F

    2005 250F Won't idle or rev??

    Usually 6 weeks isn't too much a problem for a bike to sit. What i'm thinking is there's water in the float bowl. Loosen the drain screw at the bottom of the float bowl and let it drain. Then remove the plug at the botom of the float bowl (water always collects there). dump it out, put it back together & turn the gas back on. I use a ratio rite cup to collect the gas from the carb, and if there's water in there, it's really obvious. I'd also drain all the gas out of the tank too before you fill the carb again. If you drain the tank & don't find any water, AND there's no water in the carb, then remove the carb & clean it. You can drain the tank & the carb without removing anything. Of course if there's no water, then you'll have to start tearing things apart.