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About wood79

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    United Kingdom
  1. I'll have to recheck the voltage tomorrow when I attempt to start it. I get nothing from the starting motor etc, just a single click from the relay under the seat? I think I'll have to buy a KTM battery charger specific for this battery. Anyway, thanks & I'll post the results.... PS. I'm thinking of re-fitting the original clutch (removing the Rekluse EXP), so I can try bump starting it. With the motor running surely that will top up the battery as it's only 0.7 volts under the 10.8 volts.
  2. Hi, Had the bike since new & I've never had a starting issue before now. When I press the start button, all I get is a clicking noise from the relay under the seat. I checked the voltage of the battery & it's showing 12.07 volts. I know fully charged should be circa 12.8 volts but my battery doesn't seem that low. Also, I have a Rekluse EXP installed so bump starting isn't an option. I read somewhere that as long as the battery voltage is above 10.0 volts then it's ok to recharge it. Do I need to but a KTM specific charger, and if so how much & where from for the best deal? I know the batteries cost circa $150!! Any help/info would really be appreciated
  3. Hi, Just got a Ride Eng bracket to fit a Honda HPSD to my Sxf 450/2016. A friend gave me the damper as he was parting out his bike, so I thought I'd give it a go. Anyway, the upper clamp doesn't fit! Bought through BTO Sports in the states, where it says that it should fit Factory Edition 2012.5-2015.5. The Ride Eng site lists the same kit with same part number, & it says it should fit 2016 models? Has anyone had any issues with this kit, part no is: KT-SHSB3-KT
  4. Hi, Just purchased a MY2016 SXF 450 (EU). As the bike is so new I'm having problems getting hold of part numbers. When I last got a new KTM (2008), both the engine & chassis parts manuals came with the bike. Maybe someone could point me in the right direction? As the Factory Edition (2015.5) looks identical, maybe someone from the US could post a copy for that bike. Any pointers would be appreciated as I can't even get hold of a set of plastics .... Also, been thinking about adding the 5th gear in order to make it more offroad friendly. It would be cool to be able to work out what specific parts I would need, & obviously the cost too. Thanks
  5. Was thinking of big bore/stroke kit. So thought any extra cooling I could get would be a good idea. Maybe just wait for the 'SXF 350!!!'.
  6. As far as I can tell from the pics on their site, it looks like it attaches to the oil filter housing. ie instead of the oem cap you bolt this on and it pumps the oil through an input line to the cooler ( Billet finned bottle) then through the output line back to the oil filter.
  7. I want to fit a set of higher capacity/higher efficiency rads to my sxf 250 '08. The sxs and troy corser ones are ££££! But I want a set that's compatible with the 'Y' peice hose set up. What about; HCR,PWR,GMX? Do these other rads fit the Y hose set up? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  8. Has anyone used this product? Any comments or advice? Thinking about getting one & swapping the 'Billet' style cooler for a Rad style one,same as we use to cool our water. Local breakers has all different shapes/sizes. ( www.Racebikebitz.com) U.K. Thanks.
  9. H. Nolte was or still is the factory KTM mechanic. This was the only reason that I took his word as credible.With the oem units ratchet system being almost redundant, my laymans opinion would be that all the tensioning pressure is provided via oil pressure with the back up being a spring. If I'm assuming correctly then all the tension/braking force on the chain is provided by oil pressure ie 'Parasitical drag'. If the energy isn't taken out the system,lost in friction/heat. The oil pumps dopn't have to supply this work which in turn stays in the system and is therfore available to the main system ie the power train. Is the only reson pro teams use mech tensioners for saftey reasons?
  10. Wondering which 'BB' kit to buy? Is the sxs kit just a std ktm cylinder that has been bored out to a larger dia, or is it a new spec casting? The reason I ask is that I lay my hands on a real cheap oem cylinder. It has slight damage to the nikasil plate but if I was to bore it out it would need to be re plated anyway. Only prob with over boring the oem unit is that the liner is going to be thinner and the more the bore is increased you start to reduce the volume of the water jacket. Larger cm3 = more heat. If the sxs kit wasn't just an over bored oem cylinder I'd defo buy it.Bigger water jacket is a + and I'd always thought that having the piston & liner made of the same material was an advantage ie because they expand at the same rate, the tolerances can be tighter. I wanted to get the crank stroked too, but would it make sense to keep the std bore/stroke ratio? Finlay as the cm3 would be increased would the std carb not hinder the top-end? Thought about going to a larger carb ( 40/41mm) or eccentrically boring the oem 39mm. Even 'Ovalizing/egg shape' 39mm for bottom-mid,40-41mm for mid-top. Should only increase flow when slide half way up. Lastly would the squish/quench band need altering as with a bigger bore it would therfore cover a larger ratio of the bore. Been offered an extruded cyl head which would seem like a good idea but it would have to match cyl bore dia. Sorry to go on but as the cm3 is increased would I need cams with more lift/durration to flow the extra gas? Been told to ceramic/plasma coat piston crown,oversize rads, high flow impeller kit and already have a modded oil cooler ( Came with billet style cooler,swaped for rad style) fits on oil filter cap. Any advice would be great. Thanks
  11. Where's the best place to purchase,I'm in the UK? What was the price? Was wondering as I'm gonna have to get my cylinder replated, would I be better off just getting it bored/plated to the bb kit spec and buying a piston?
  12. The bike is a '08 Sxf 250 and since installing an fmf megabomb/ 4.1 & a JE high comp piston (13.5:1) . As standard the plug electrode was always a pail tan/brown colour,now it looks on the grey side. Should I go up a couple of sizes on the main? Or should I be running 'Race gas', V.P. u42 or something similar? Any help would be appreciated.
  13. The -3bhp did seem like alot. But as it was attributed to H. Nolte ie factory ktm It would seem reliable. Got the Dirt tricks one installed,when after top end rebuild oem failed. It had worked flawlessly even after couple of strip downs.
  14. In #44 'Moto' mag top KTM tuner Harry Nolte when giving advice to the 'Proseal KTM' team on how to squeeze the best out of the Austrian lump advises; SXS cams, SXS cdi, raised comp ( machine cyl ), gas flow head.It was when the article stated that the Ktm factory discovered that having to pump the oil to keep the cam chain tensioned can rob up to 3bhp I was just a bit surprised. The only place I can find a 'Mech tensioner' inc oil port plug is (www.pauljasracing.com). Obviously the extra hp comes at the cost of having to check tension continuously. Has anyone had any experience with the product from the above co?
  15. I assumed the loss of hp was due to the parasitical drag of having to pump the oil to keep the chain loaded up.As the crank powers the oil pumps the force on the chain is energy drawn form crank, so if not used for that maybe the + 3hp.
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