Jump to content

boatxr

Members
  • Content Count

    911
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About boatxr

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colorado
  1. boatxr

    2001 DRZ400E Colorado Jetting Help

    I've got the same ?s
  2. boatxr

    E model FCR carb tuning and jetting

    anyone have input? thanks!
  3. Greetings all. I bought a 2001 E. Never owned this carb before. Colorado jetting help with FCR - E model. Riding 5000' on up to 10,000 or so regularly. Occasional 4000' in Moab. Occasional 10,000'+ too. Most of the time 6-9k'. What jetting elevation should I base from that wide range. Bike included a moose / all balls 1003-0895 kit that I'll rebuild with. Bike has Yosh pipe and snorkle pulled (3x3). No idea how it's now. Will use as many new parts as possible. Includes obdxp needle and extended fuel screw. Use fuel screw or not? Dxp needle, use or not? Get a JD needle instead? Jets #s for my elevation that should be installed? Coast enrichener still there. Planning on removing and connecting both ports together via hose & cap motor. I hear plugging carb ports and using 100( leak jet?) Does not work as well? Anyone other mods or must look out for? Will Pine Sol soak it clean too. Not interested in max power just usable meat in the mid rpm rrpm range. 14/48 gearing. Thnx, Bill
  4. this one: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/965/53457/Yamaha-Radiator-Fan-Kit https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/details/radiator-fan-kit?b=Search the fan motor is a standard Panasonic unit and used on many models, including other mfg. the fan blade is different per model, some wider some narrower different radiator then require different mount brackets but that Panasonic motor always bolts up with the same 3 screws. wondering if anyone has the kit and can measure how wide is the fan and how far from the motor body this fan extends? my local shop does not have this in stock for me to measure. trying to retrofit the motor and blade assy to another Yamaha bracket for a different bike. thanks! Bill
  5. boatxr

    2015 WR250F gas tank options?

    How much fuel is not being used in the wings of that 3g IMS tank however? It looks like you might only get 2.75g (unless there is a fuel pump system built in) or so where as that other 2.5g IMS tank uses all the fuel. The Safari system is 3.9g and looks like all of that gets used but it does move weight up high...and will not doubt be $$$. An alternative to carrying more fuel (& tools/gear) when needed could a Giant Loop Mojavi bag http://giantloopmoto.com/products/mojavi-saddlebag/ And then bring some fuel bottles - Touratech 2/3L , Primus 1.5L or MSR Dromedary. That Safari tank and Mojavi fuel option could yield some long range western riding options for sure. You could also just strap this bad boy on the rear of the seat and pour it in when needed asap. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/group-buy-liquid-container-bags.1039083/
  6. boatxr

    AJP powered by Honda CRF150F engines

    PR3, PR3.5 & PR4 are Honda 230 clones PR5 is a Chinese 250 fuel injected motor also found in Gas Gas and CSC bikes. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1029612 http://motoajp.com/ http://rickramsey.net/PR4.htm
  7. thanks. i'll check out those. had a blocked ap nozzle but that is fixed and the ap now works. just wondering what is wrong with just bending the 1 fork leg in to reduce squirt? seems that 's what it's designed for. reason i asked is when my ap squirt worked i then timed it. it was a solid 3 secs. for the heck of it i squeezed in the 1 arm alost pinched to the other. it was now 1 sec. i sprays after the lift goes up like it should. i put the carb back on the bike and i'll fire it tommorrow. why is this not the method used? am i missing something here? thnx bill
  8. boatxr

    Slant FCR - AP not squirting gas?

    got it fixed. sprayed back side and then into the ap nozzle and back and forth and finally the blockage was gone. squirts just fine now. thnx
  9. found a problem. float bowl is off now and i can't even squirt carb clean thru passage and out the nozzle with nor blow air thru. carb is upside now with carb cleaner soaking in that passage. should carb cleaner with be able to produce a squirt out nozzle or it it real high pressure only? all other passages clean & assy correct. has v1 boysen ap pump cover. thnx bill
  10. thanks! i'll see what my squirt is here shortly. so if you adjust that fork arm you still need to grind? i'm not 100% sure where the grinding happens? on the raised center portion of the diaphram or on the plumger rod? when i look at the eddie mod method (wiring together) the black arm pulls away from the fork and this would seem to bind then? is that then where grinding allows the fork and the black arm to move toether in unison?
  11. still wondering what parts you are recomending replacing here? thnx
  12. question on ajdusting down AP squirt time from what ever your carb does to 1 sec? seems it was the taffy mod before and now the eddie is the way to go but what is wrong with the what appears to be the factor method of squeezing the fork arms together tighter to get it to recomended 1 sec? http://www.4strokes.com/tech/ktm/jetmods.asp is there something flawed with this simple to do method of opening and closing this gap (short of stressing the metal and breaking the tab off) ??? i'm going to test my squirt time today and see. could be that Boysen AP v1 cap my carb has on limits the squirt timing too? thnx bill
  13. funny thing is i tested my tps (with the manual and ohm tester) and it was way out of whack as set. #2 was 92% of #1. i adjusted it to the max setting i could (w/ full open throttle) and the best I could get is aprox 80% of #1 with #2 not down the recomended 78%. i run it both ways and see how works. cleaned carb goes back on my bike today with existing settings and snorkle still in. i'll see how she runs. then i'll work o getting some new jets and optimize things from there.
  14. awesome thanks! any idea on what main i should use for now with the stock muffler until i get a better flowing muffler? what about just using a hole saw and opening the rear end cap hole like i've read in a few articles? or just drilling extra holes all around the original end cap hole? both methods would open the final hole more. i took off my end cap and there is just the spark arrestor but others have said talked about a cap over this like in this pic: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/598790-stock-drz400e-exhaust-tip/page-2 my bike does not have that cap, just screen. i just cleaned up the carbon real good off the spark arrestor screen. will drilling (hole saw or just more end cap holes) open it enough to use your recomended main jet or is there a better smaller main jet for me for now? are there any upsides or downside to drilling the end cap more? i know my E has the larger header over the S. thnx
×