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Wideopen24_7

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About Wideopen24_7

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    Illinois

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  1. Wideopen24_7

    Cutting off end of silencer

    You can probably buy the newer style end cap since they are a replacement part and they do come loose and people lose them. As for jetting I would call pro-circuit and get their specs for that system and your bike. Look up the stock setting for your bike and then look in this forum for the recommended jetting changes. Those years typically came 1 clip position rich on the needle with the stock pipe. The PC specs may also consider that the bike was already rich so ask them. Take the carb apart and clean everything real good and use a small wire to lightly clean out the jets. I recommend doing this on a bench so you don't lose anything. While its apart take the carb to your bike shop or someone you know and have them check the float level. If you buy stuff regularly at your dealer they should do it for free, especially if they are all standing around at the counter doing nothing. Buy some jets from them if you need to make any changes. If the bike is stock it will be easy to dial in for that pipe. You don't have to be an expert to swap jets. Your probably going to be at the stock needle position or 1 clip leaner. The pilot should end up being stock or 1 richer or 1 leaner. Just try some combinations, make notes, and keep it where it runs best. If you don't know how to adjust the air screw then just turn it to 1 or 1 1/4 turns out and leave it alone. Try the 3 different pilot jets and then leave in the one that has the least bog. Now go back and try adjusting the air screw to get it a little better. Don't go less than 1/2 turn out and no more than 2 1/2 turns out. We can teach you how to adjust by sound but you may not be ready for that. If you start swapping jets and turning screws without knowing what your doing then you will just get confused. Get a fresh plug also. When you get it dialed in then don't forget to come back on here and post your results so you can help out the next guy. You could also change the title to 'jetting specs for 2001 yz 125 yz125 with pro-circuit pipe silencer exhaust' so people can find it.
  2. Wideopen24_7

    125 Bandwagon (sign me up)

    Just lean forward a little then lean back and lift the bars up. You need to be in the power a little bit but try to keep the rpms as low as possible. The faster you are going when you try to start the wheelie then the more power you will need but that also increases the load on the bike which takes out the hit. The safest way to learn is on a slight incline in 3rd gear.
  3. Wideopen24_7

    125 Bandwagon (sign me up)

    You need to short shift a 125 during a wheelie just like a bigger bike. I like to keep the rpms as low as possible and no clutch to start the wheelie and use my body weight to pull up and back while cracking the throttle. Staying out of the peak power makes the power predictable and easy to carry your wheelie. Shift gears without pulling in the clutch and just letting off the throttle for a second.
  4. Wideopen24_7

    125 Bandwagon (sign me up)

    The 04 in the picture is a low hour bike. The tank and shroud stickers look stock and you can tell by the little bit of wear on the clutch cover. The paint rubbing off the frame is kinda misleading since it happens rather quick. If you find a bike with little frame wear then your talking super low hours. If this bike was jetted correctly and had the fuel mixed right then you should expect it to have a good crank, good cylinder plating, and little to no grooving in the clutch basket. You should take the cylinder off and inspect it first before riding it much. It may need a piston or possibly clutch plates but that should be about it in the motor. With that being said it could still need a lot more money if it needs brake pads, tires, chain, sprockets, bars. Rear wheel bearings should be good, stock front wheel bearings can go out in as little as 10 hours. The swingarm and linkage should all be in good shape once they are lubed up. Rear shock oil and fork oil really needs to be changed at least once a year but most people won't do that. Some of these older bikes have never had the shock serviced. I highly recommend servicing both front and back unless he can prove that its been done.
  5. Wideopen24_7

    2004 Yz 125 | What do you guys think?

    Agreed that it is 01 or older. White air box is either 00 or 01. The air box appears to be white. Black air box would be 98 or 99. Darker blue plastic with white back fender would be a 97. 96 would have a white frame I believe. Nothing wrong with a 98 or newer. Actually the 98 has a 36 mm carb and good low end power for a 125 and still revs good. I think the 99 has the 36 mm carb also but not as much low end. 02-04 has a 5 speed gearbox that most people don't like as well. $1000 would be a fair price if everything checks out. You could probably pay a little more and get a nicer one.
  6. Wideopen24_7

    Yz125 flywheel weight

    First off a FWW will not add or take away any power or torque. It will simply slow the revs and increase chugging inertia at low rpms. It will help stalling but thats not an issue on a 125. As stated they should only be needed on a 125 as a last resort to tone down the power or on real technical trails. Adding FWW will also make it harder to control the power with the clutch. Learn to move your body around on the bike to lean into the power when accelerating. No matter how much you weigh or what size bike you are on if you are being jerked around by the power then you need to be smoother with the throttle and learn to use your elbows and knees to stay neutral on the bike and absorb the power. Even a 125 can feel like a rocket if you lock your arms straight and crack the throttle. Learn the friction point on the clutch and master staying right there when cornering. Practice finding the friction point from a stop by letting out the clutch slowly till it starts to take off. Try to only use 1st gear to take off and for real technical sections. Even really slow corners can be taken in 2nd. Staying away from 1st gear will get rid of that bucking and jerking your calling engine breaking. You can make quick stabs with the clutch to help build rpms down a strait away but primarily be smooth with the clutch and learn to meter the power by blending the clutch with the throttle. Practice some motocross starts by leaning forward, holding the throttle at half to 3/4 throttle, and then slowly release the clutch. Try letting the clutch out a little faster and vary how far forward you lean until you find the quickest way to get moving. Be careful though even a 125 will loop out if you rev it up and dump the clutch. Then try to learn your shift points by wringing it out and shifting. Sometimes shifting a little earlier can be better. You will probably want a 50, 51, or 52 on the rear sprocket to close up the gaps between gears. It kinda depends on how tight your terrain is and how fast you are cornering. If you are having trouble staying in 2nd gear in alot of corners then go with a 52. If not then a 50 or 51 will work fine. Even for hill climbing I'm not sure you want a FWW because you want that quick blast of power to get you going and you can still grab the clutch when your rpm's drop. There is no limit to what gear you can ride trails in. That will depend on how tight they are how fast you safely feel like going. If you want to go faster grab another gear.
  7. Wideopen24_7

    Rebuild or Part out???? 99' YZ125

    The advantage you have going for you is that you get to have a bike with a fresh rebuilt motor for under a grand and if you send it to someone like Eric Gorr you can have the power tweaked a little. Eric will throw in a port job for practically nothing even if you just send him a cylinder for replating and he will make sure the piston is sized right and set the head clearance better. I know you said you don't want a big bore but at this point a big bore isn't much more and would probably clean up the cylinder and you would be surprised what an engine builder can do with a head. They are plenty thick so they can just dig it out and cut it down to better than stock. A 2mm overbore with an ultralight wiseco with whatever porting you desire would make a nice little motor. If you buy a $50 cylinder then you are getting $50 worth of plating left which may be nothing at all and it will be harder to get the right clearance on the piston. Eric and most engine builders apply more plating than stock and hone it down to get the perfect fit. You will have a motor better than new and no worries of it taking a crap. Regular price for a 134 kit is $450 and I bet he wouldn't charge you anymore to fix the head. No case machining on a 134 kit.
  8. Wideopen24_7

    Refinishing/paint stripping/polishing two-stroke headers

    I like the look of the shortened stocker with the black end cap and how it hangs down lower. Its thicker so should be quieter. The length turned out good for looks with the end cap starting right at the corner of the number plate. Looks like you got a little dent in it already, the only blemish on the bike. As for nickel plating a stock pipe the original poster needs to check with a chrome plating shop. I bet it wouldn't be too much if you have it prepped. I would like to see one.
  9. Wideopen24_7

    FMF shorty pros & cons

    The power change is minimal but a longer silencer like the powercore is for mid-top end power. Shorty silencer for low-mid end. Other than the power change the shorty has only 1 other benefit and that is the weight loss. They are annoying loud and are messy with very little packing to catch spooge. Like others said the powercore is my choice. Its just a little shorter than stock and eliminates the rear mount to the subframe and it has a nice bark to it. The new lower cut plastic kits let you show off your silencer and longer looks better. In my opinion there are better ways to get low-end than a shorty pipe. Nothing wrong with the stock silencer.
  10. Wideopen24_7

    2004 Fork Help

    I agree with mlatour in that the older forks work just as good if not better than the newer forks for offroad. I'm not sure about jumping as I didn't do much mx but cornering is the same on a mx track or offroad. They are not plush by any means but its more about what you go faster on. I have found that the 36mm forks with stock valving work the best when undersprung and this takes the harshness out, 1 rate softer for mx and 2 rates softer for offroad. 1 rate is usually about 15 lbs. I had the older forks revalved by 2 different reputable companies and they never were as good as stock. The fastest I ever went on a dirt bike was a 2000 yz 125 with stock suspension with stock springs, valving, and fresh oil at the stock level when I weighed 195 lbs. I'm sure several will disagree but this is what works for me. I think the 38mm 04 forks have a little softer valving so maybe stock rate for mx and 1 rate softer for offroad.
  11. Wideopen24_7

    YZ 125 Shock length changes

    Does anyone know if the yz 125 or 250 has ever changed the shock length on the steel framed bikes? It seems like maybe there was a change around 03 but I can't remember. I used to know this stuff but forgot and I can't find it anywhere. I am not looking to swap shocks but rather looking at geometry changes. I'm pretty sure all the aluminum framed YZ 2-strokes have the same length.
  12. Wideopen24_7

    Destroyed swing arm? 06 yz 125

    There is a thick spacer that goes on the outside of each side of the swingarm and slips in the seal. Its rests on a ridge inside the arm. The outside of the arm has nothing to do with alignment from side to side but rather creates a recessed area for the spacer to sit in. There is still plenty of material there to hold the spacer in place. Swingarm play from side to side should always be minimal and can be shimmed with a shim washer on the outside. I have seen brand new bikes with too much play. This arm is fine, bolt it up and ride. If you ever did need a new arm, the 06 arms can be found for $50 or so but the new 4-stroke arms are the way to go.
  13. It sounds like there were 2 sets of cases, one set of internals, and a new crank and bearings used for the rebuild. Noone knows what parts were included with the new set of cases when the motor was rebuilt. We do know that there were extra pieces all around when the swap was made. Since a reputable engine builder did the work I tend to believe the extra part was simply an extra pin or needle from a bearing that made its way into the new motor by being stuck to something. It would only take a little bit of oil for that to cling on to something. This does not explain your vibration but I wouldn't be overly concerned with other parts floating around. At the least I think the clutch and flywheel should be taken off and reinstalled with the manual and the powervalve checked. Check compression also.
  14. I like the older tank and shrouds better and the graphics are easier to install but less kits available. If you ever try to put aftermarket platic on the 02 and newer the tank to shroud connection can be hard to match up. Definitely get the newer front fender and number plate. The older ergos are just as good also.
  15. Wideopen24_7

    KTM SX 125 2002 WARNING

    I have never seen such obsession and lust over inanimate objects like these retard KTM lovers are showing. Its obvious the only action they are getting is from a KTM silencer or maybe an oily air filter. You guys make me sick!
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