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About Memnok

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  1. Yeah, I kind of figured I could probably find someone to take it out, but I was pretty irritated with the whole thing and just ordered a new one. I'm in the Central Valley, Turlock. I'm sure there's some good machine shops in the area, I just don't really know which are the good ones.
  2. I'm replacing the cylinder head on a CRF100 after the header pipe bolts (and an easy-out) broke off inside. I've got the new OEM head, what (if anything) can I reuse from the original head? Valves, springs, cam? The motorcycle was running well and in excellent shape before the pipe was snapped off. I'm just fixing it to sell at this point, so I don't want to invest too much, but don't want to screw the next owner either.
  3. I've only taken the Quantum out for a day ride with my boys at the local OHV area, but it worked like a champ. Others over at ADV said they have over 100 hours on theirs. So far, so good though. Keep in mind this is JUST THE PUMP. It is not the entire assembly. You would need to have everything else that goes in the tank from an old or broken assembly.
  4. Looks like they have one for the 350 XC-F: Quantum 30mm Intank EFI Fuel Pump With Regulator And Strainer KTM 350 XC-F / 350 XCF-W 2012-2018
  5. Not necessarily. The pump went belly up on my EXC 500. When I turned the bike on you could hear the fuel pump start up and pressurize the system like it should. But when the dealer hooked up an inline, the pressure was not being maintained. When the pump shuts off the line between the tank and injector should maintain about 3 bar of pressure. Mine was dropping off to less than 2 bar (still had some pressure, but not enough to run right). When you really looked, you could see the fuel sloshing around in the tank as the pressure from the pump dissipated the fuel back into the tank. I ended up spending $350 on a new KTM pump assembly because I was out of town on a riding trip and didn't have time to mess with it. Just reticently I purchased a Quantum pump and a new in-tank filter for the busted assembly, and now it works great again. It's nice having a pump for both the stock tank and the Acerbis 4.1. Not sure if this is the same problem, but couldn't hurt to check and make sure the system is maintaining pressure. Lost of discussion on this over 3 or 4 pages at ADVRider. Hope this helps.
  6. Struck a nerve there I guess. Feel free to add a photo of the stock headlight if you wish. Everyone's experience is their own, this was mine.
  7. I hate my Cyclops LED. The pattern is horrible. Looks like the bat signal. If it didn't have to hack into the headlight assembly to install it I would go back to the stock bulb.
  8. This is what I have been looking at. Not street legal, but you can have the driving lights on low beam with a dimmer (on top angled down), and set the high beams to activate the floods and driving lights. I have one of the Cyclops LED bulbs in the factory housing, and the light pattern it creates is horrible. Looks like the bat signal. Or you could keep the stock headlight and add some ADVMonster LED's like I did after hating the Cyclops LED. I mounted them to the bark busters and they come on with the high beams using a relay:
  9. I just reticently had a similar problem with my 500 EXC. I was riding some slow 1 & second gear single track in the NV desert for about two hours when we stopped to gather everyone up. When I tried to restart the bike it didn't want to start. Tried everything we could on the trail side, and eventually got it to catch. I made my way to the highway and back to the truck at about 1/2 power. The dealership hooked up a gauge inline between the tank and throttle body and found the fuel pump was bad. I was surprised because when I took the fuel line off and turned the pump on it seemed to pump with the force I would expect. But when the pump turned off, it was not holding pressure. Apparently the pump should hold something like 3 bar (I don't recall exactly) when it turns off. No idea if this is your problem, but it may be worth checking.
  10. Good afternoon all! I just purchased a used 2006 CRF250x for my son, and before taking it on our first ride, did some basic maintenance. Overall, I'm happy with the bike, but found the top oil cover bolt appears to be stripped. Having a heavy hand, I do all these smaller bolts with a torque wrench now days, I guess the former owner did not. I have seen several threads so far on the bottom bolt being stripped, but none on the top bolt. I have never done a Timesert or Helicoil before, so I am not sure if it can be done with threads so deep in the case. The top bolt is much longer that the bottom bolt. Does anyone know if I will need to remove the left crank case cover to make this repair?
  11. Doh! Looks like a portable battery showdown! Will the jump-start threads replace the oil threads???
  12. I was wondering if some kind person with a bit more know-how could help me with this relay for my auxiliary LED lights. I did this once before on my old bike, but the instruction on this relay seem a bit more technical. I am wiring the relay to the high beams on my 500 EXC, so that the come on with the high beam, but don't overload from the stock circuit. The LED's are ADVMonster 60 floods, and pull 2.4 amps each, for a total of 4.8 amps. The Directed Electronics 8616 Mini Relay is rated at 10 amps, so I should be good for capacity. If I am reading this right: Black - ground Red - fused line to the battery Yellow - tapped into the high beam Brown - positive wire to LED's negative wire from LED's to ground. Does that sound right?
  13. That is a great thread. I'm waiting for him to start selling those. Way cheaper than those backup batteries. I don't really know, but I'm guessing it's either cost, or the fact that they catch fire. They probably would not catch fire in day-to-day use, but I've been to many vehicle accidents where batteries suffered damage. Especially in vehicles where the battery is located closer to the front. Nothing to back this up, but it is my best guess.
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