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Older and Slower

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About Older and Slower

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    Nevada

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  1. Older and Slower

    Battery jumpstarter good idea or not

    "vehicle because it will try to control the voltage applied to the electrical system" The connection to the battery is on the 'wrong' side of the regulator. May i respectfully suggest looking at a schematic. I have replaced my voltage regulator with a different unit that is designed to handle larger charging currents than the OEM Suzuki regulator. The pass transistors in a voltage regulator block the reverse flow of current from the battery ... that is why your battery does not discharge through the regulator while sitting. Having jump started many bikes over the years from a running engine i have yet to have a failure of the regulator. Hope you have a nice holiday. Cheers
  2. Older and Slower

    94 DR650 Trail tech vapor install - speedo rear wheel?

    Well ... wheel spin is a non-issue as when i'm backing it into a corner, the LAST thing i'm looking at is the speedo. Never has been a problem and the wiring is out of the way. If you're off road going thru the brush, it has less of tendency to get snagged. Also, zip ties deteriorate over time. Just 40 years experience raising hell on motorcycles. Cheers
  3. Older and Slower

    94 DR650 Trail tech vapor install - speedo rear wheel?

    Used a vapor for a while, now using a differnet one. I had the vapor, and now the other one driven from the rear wheel. I made a bracket out of a piece of .060 stainless steel that bolted to the caliper with one of the caliper bolts and the magnet replaced one of the rotor bolts. Easy-peasy. When i had the vapor, i had the tach input connected to the hot side of the coil, and the temp sensor went to the top oil banjo replacing one of the banjo copper rings. Worked very well.
  4. Older and Slower

    Battery jumpstarter good idea or not

    Having considerable experience working on the DR-650 electrical system, i can say that the regulator does not play a part in the jump starting until the engine actually starts. So its' size is pretty much irrelevent. I run a LiIon battery in my 650 and i keep it on a battery tender during the winter when i am not riding, You could buy a LiIon battery and keep it as a spare and jump start with it when required?
  5. Older and Slower

    Cams? pistons? lets talk engines!

    I went with the 190 cam and the HC piston. Yes, i had to clay the valve pockets in the piston and make sure there was enough clearance. I initially had slight interferance as my factory timing marks leave the cam a bit retarded. Now running a slight amount of advance with no issues, I wish adjustable cam gears were available for this motor. I also have the TM-40 pumper carb and the FMF Power Bomb head pipe with a homemade mid pipe and a Yosh RS-3 can. The bike rocks, plenty of power and pulls hard all the way to the limiter. I did not go with the 790 kit as like Qwerty has stated ... lots of build threads, but very little about the longevity of the build. I also prefer the plated aluminum bore vs the steel liner as i have had thumpers with steel liners develop piston slap after about 10k miles. Just my opinion and experience and as always YMMV. CHeers.
  6. Older and Slower

    Old guy motard?

    Well ... i'm 58, soon to be 59 and i ride the s**t out of this:
  7. Older and Slower

    DR650 - relocating the oil cooler?

    mine so far ....
  8. Older and Slower

    Tried to put larger gas tank on 350, bike no longer starts

    I have a DR-650 however it sounds like the bikes are similar as far as the stock tank/carb/petcock system. if you don't have the vacuum line from the carb connectd to a vacuum operated petcock, you will need to block it off with a plug/cap to keep the engine from leaning out from the vacuum leak. If you have two petcocks on the new tank, they will need a 'Y' connection before a single line goes to the fuel inlet on the carb (similar to an old Triumph i had). You don't need a new carb, just set the one you have up correctly and it should work.If you have pictures of your set-up, it would help.
  9. Older and Slower

    DR650 - relocating the oil cooler?

    Haven't relocated my oil cooler, but am interested in you conversion. Mine is more of a supermoto/tracker/cafe type bike now.
  10. Hi, Don't know where the for sale / want section is (i looked) so thought i would post it here. If wrong, my apologies and mods. can move or delete if need be. I could use one of the factory handle bar mounts for the newer version of the DR-650. I usually refer to them as risers, but it's just the mount that mounts the 7/8" handle bar to the to triple clamp. I will buy both if someone only wants to get rid of both of theirs. I went with some 1 1/8" FatBars and have now found some 7/8" steel bars that i like and have mis-placed one of my original mounts ... so now need one. Thank-you. O&S
  11. Older and Slower

    DR650 Cafe Conversion & "New" 1992 bike questions

    Arkkra, they look like 19" wheels to me. I thought about and wanted to go with 19" wheels when i modified my bike, but decided against it and went with the 17" instead because of the availability of different types and compunds of tires available for the 17" rims.
  12. Older and Slower

    DR650 Valve check / adjust How To procedure - with photos

    Well .... i have the #190 grind cam and if i line the "T" up in the window, the compression release puts pressure on the rocker arms and i can't adjust the valves correctly. So ...... i gently jog the crank back and forth a few degrees from TDC and at the same time wiggle the selected feeler gauge into the gap. When the gauge goes thru, i know that the crank/cam is just off of the compression release and the gap is at its widest. Then i just set them as normal. I run my intakes at .005" and the exhaust at about .007". Been doing it this way for a couple of years and ride the crap outta it (super-moto/street tracker thing) with no problems. Cheers and remember YMMV.
  13. Older and Slower

    Procycle Head questions

    Sorry about kinda stealing a thread that has gone slightly off topic; I also thought the brakes sucked, so ... Front brakes; Radial M/C from Braking, braided steel lines, a Motostrano 320mm rotor, and sintered pads ... two finger stoppies now. Rear brakes; braided steel lines, ceramic pads, replaced M/C with a new unit with the integrated reservoir, increased leverage on the M/C with the linkage that connects the rear set brake pedal to the M/C ... slide the rear at any speed at any time on any surface. Both front and rear wheels are 17" with dual compound Pilots. Back on topic; can not justify the price of the re-worked head so stopped at the H/C piston and the 190 cam. Maybe a big bore next winter. Cheers and remember, YMMV.
  14. Older and Slower

    DR650 Cafe Conversion & "New" 1992 bike questions

    CEERF, How will you keep the forks from hitting the tank? I want to change my tank and seat and was thinking of the same XR750 tank, but was woried about the fork tubes hitting it. I also have a set of USD forks that i need to have shortened and they are much larger in diameter and would only make the interference worse. Thanks for any input. Cheers O&S
  15. Older and Slower

    Handling improvement from lowering?

    I lowered mine via the factory method, AND used a set of lowering links as well. My bike is set up as a super-moto and will never see dirt. I changed the front fork oil, and changed the shock oil as well and it has made a lot of difference. I think the post about the springs being too soft may be correct in my case as i weigh 235 lbs.. I run about 4 to 5 lbs. of Argon gas in the front forks to compensate, but a bit stiffer spring would be the better way to go. I need to state that i also have the bike set up with rear-set foot pegs, similar to a sport bike, that are both higher and ... well ... rear-set. This gives me much more clearance that is needed as the bike is considerable lower than as it came from the factory. It corners superbly. So, i guess what i am trying to say is, go for the lowering and see how it feels.
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