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Everything posted by dmm698

  1. dmm698

    1990 KDX200 touch-up/facelift

    I have two complete front ends with calipers / wheels / forks/ clamps from 2001 kx250's I'll sell cheap. Send me a PM if interested.
  2. dmm698

    Anyone running ohlins suspension on there kx450f?

    Agreed. I loved the ergo's but after two shock revalves I still couldnt get the bike to handle worth a damn with the forks. Installed a second hand set of PC 49mm spring a kit forks, and a kit shock both revalved for the bike, and i have never ridden something so good in my life.
  3. dmm698

    fox shox podium rc3 reviews?

    I saw one in good shape for sale for 200$, was going to buy it just to try and for the cool factor. Then I started to think, you' dhave to send it to fox for a revalve most likely, and honestly my 13 yz250 handles better than any other bike i've ridden box stock. Was a no brainer at that point, didnt have to chase setup with a new shock ect.
  4. dmm698

    Worth Trading in for a 250X

    my recommendation is unless you have screw you money, you're pissing money into the wind Trading in a dirt bike. If this is the case keep the 250f, and by the 250 smoker. If this is not the case, Sell it out right if you really want the 250 smoker.
  5. dmm698

    2016 KX450F stock suspension valving

    Guess I'll agree to disagree, as i've got them working almost equally as well as my KYB SSS on my yz. Only thing I may still do is add a hair of oil.
  6. dmm698

    2016 KX450F stock suspension valving

    FC revalves are usually pretty tough. Sending something out to a box shop where joe blow reads a sheet and says "Oh, b level, 1xx pounds, Ok they get this stack!". Work with somebody local. Decent B rider, 180 pounds, mx, my only complaint was the shock sucking. Got it revalved stiffer so it didnt squat so much under a load, and problem solved. Forks are 169/7/169, and then played with comp/reb.Forks are good. Bike feels as good as my 13 yz250 smoker which is bar none one of the best feeling bikes out there. Come across way to many guys who are dis pleased with FC stuff, not to mention the outrageous price tag that comes with it.
  7. dmm698

    Trouble selling bike?

    I really hope this doesnt come off as rude , but whenever I see a bike where the owner can not correctly route the front brake line, its an instant red light in my head as to the type of care the bike received. Another flag to me from the pictures is that the radiator louvers are missing, and it appears the skid plate is missing. The bikes I see missing this stuff are usually rather torched. FWIW, I had that same bike back in 2011 (had the 2012 dual induction setup on it too). Paid 5400 brand new OTD in April of 11. At 75 hours the valves still hadnt required any shimming (B class mx). I tore it down to put a carillo rod in it for precaution, did a piston, and just put copper seats and valves in it so I didnt have a valve issue with a brand new lower end. Bike brought 3400$ spring of 2014 with 115 hours on the meter. I have fortunately put myself in a position where I can afford to buy new, and usually after racing them for two seasons its cheaper to do it this way than buy used and be replacing parts all the time. When Isell them, They're usually gone in a week or two at most. I put the stock OEM plastic with OEM graphics back on that were removed and never ridden on, and make sure its clean as a whistle.
  8. dmm698

    What's it worth - Opinions

    brand new 16's at the dealer have been 5400$ since february. I'd say 4200 would be decent.
  9. dmm698

    Need specs for an EFI conversion

    Kawasaki likely will not give up that info, unless you have somebody thats an engineering contact, and a reason to give it to you. You wanting to EFI a bike with their parts is not a reason that they would feel the need to give it to you unfortunately. You can buy electronic copies of service manuals from various places online for like 5$.
  10. dmm698

    Need specs for an EFI conversion

    First off, good luck. DIYautotune products are junk. I wouldn't run a craftsman ride on with one. My experience with a mega squirt pro 3 unit that was given to us was beyond a headache. The project - sounds sweet. I have never looked into the pulse widths or flow rates of the injectors on these bikes. Even with the Kawasaki programmer you can only add points of fuel. You don't know the base pulse width fro, which you're starting. Just more or less. I would call vortex and beg and plead for some info. They would have to know a pulse width, duty cycle, and flow rate of the injector because they sell ECU.s for these bikes. Or you could try and back out the injector part number from a Kawasaki # and find out who actually makes it and see if you can find the manufacturer # for specs. The I don't remember if the manual or ski doo in valcourt gave me flow rates when I was doing a turbo sled for school. I know it's not in my Kawasaki manual for these. If you run into other issues let me know. What are you using for a pulse wheel? Are you adding a battery?
  11. dmm698

    Best 4CS re-valve at home

    Thats why I posted it haha Me too, or atleast enable comments on his blog posts....
  12. dmm698

    Best 4CS re-valve at home

    Yes, you that is correct.
  13. dmm698

    Best 4CS re-valve at home

    In case you guys were interested, the guys over at thumpertalk "internet gurus" got a shout out in the latest blog post! Today should be looked upon as a breakthrough day, not just for me as a rider, but also for the little 150. After last weekends ride, my friend Scotty who knows quite a bit about suspension and I had a long talk. After riding the bike, he realized what was wrong and told me to check the fork oil height. So mid week I washed the bike and checked the oil height, it was around 310cc. Now, with WP forks, that’s a LOW oil height, I generally run 350cc’s, that’s where the air gap is small enough under compression, to help with bottoming. Scotty is a KYB tuner and I have KYB internals on my WP fork tubes, so he rattled off a number of 230cc’s, being the best place to start. Since he couldn’t get close to bottoming the bike and he weighs 50lb more then I do, suffice to say, the oil height was an issue. So we negotiated a new oil height of 250cc’s, just to insure I wouldn’t have to ADD more oil during the day and it would be a good test I also decided to decrease the rear spring rate from a 4.2 to a 4.0. KTM recommends a 3.9 and the “internet” guru’s recommended a 3.8. However, I did research and it was nearly impossible to find a 3.8 or 3.9. The lowest shock spring I could find in stock was a 4.0. So I bit the bullet and made the purchase, even though it’s not much of a difference rate wise. I wanted to at least be in the ballpark. Today was the “big test” and boy did it go well. Not only did I know the new track better, but I just felt better riding the bike from the moment I swung my leg over it. That 60cc of oil reduction in the front made a dramatic difference, night and day, enough to say WOW this bike is getting close. Around mid-day Scotty started standing on the sidelines, watching me ride, so he could see what was wrong. I then supplied him with some tools and we spent a solid hour tweaking the bike. First sag and raising the front of the bike up to help with head shake. Then comp/reb rear and finishing with some small clicker changes in the forks. The good news is that the bike feels more planted then it has been. The bad news is, to get the bike working this way, the clicker adjustments are way out of spec, telling me the stuff still isn’t valved properly on Travis’s 3rd try. The forks clearly have too much high speed damping in them and the shock has too much over-all damping, but mostly rebound. So I’m going to bite the bullet in a week or two and drive down to Scotty’s place saturday, pull the bike apart and do the work there. He has all the tools and nitrogen filling station, so it will be very easy to get the stacks closer to something a bit more working. Plus, since he’s so well verse in the KYB forks, it’s will be easy for him to figure out IF there is anything else wrong. I know Travis uses his own mid valve design, which doesn’t work well for “plushness”, which has of course, always been my big beef. I’m pretty happy with how I rode today as well. It’s nice not being the slowest guy on the track and being able to pass weekend warriors at a whim. Unfortunately, I still can’t churn in the laps like I want to, that’s what happens when you spend months sitting in a chair not exercising. However, the added confidence I gained through today’s changes, is what I’ve been waiting for. Now I feel it’s time to get back to training and really get my speed back. It will take a while and it will cost a lot of money in practice time, but I think it’s worth it if I’ve got more days like today in my future.
  14. dmm698

    2016 KX450F with SFF TAC forks...

    that is wild!
  15. dmm698

    Where do I get this tool

    bought the tool from race tech myself. I agree usually from the factory everything is super tight, but i had no issues with the aluminum giving me trouble when disassembling my 2016 that had 10 hours on it. Also, you'll need a 49mm fork seal driver, they're larger a kit size than other forks. I just bought a piece of 2" pvc and cut it in half to use as a driver, ghetto, but was in a pinch and nobody had one in stock.
  16. dmm698

    2016 KX450F with SFF TAC forks...

    blew my 13 kx450 PSF1 fork seals at 10 hours, and my 2016 kx450 SFF TAC seals at 10 hours... Replaced with SKF. Seem to be holding up. At like 6 hours i was starting to get some weeping/drooling of oil when the bike sat for a day or two, but would go away once ridden. Diddnt notice any dirt or anything in the seal when I replaced them.... I tried cleaning the seals out too with no luck. Probably best to change the oil around 10 hours anyways, mine was nasty. My shock was nasty at 10 hours to0.
  17. dmm698

    Best 4CS re-valve at home

    Before anyone thinks this nonsense is written buy me: DISCLAIMER! From Tye "PingerRinger" blog. I dont know why anybody would take this guy on as a customer.... I also need to do some jetting work, the bike has started to bog on me a bit, probably because all of the race fuel which was in it from the factory is long gone. Now it’s just running shit gas and it’s not jetted properly for it. I should have some work in the next few weeks, so that will allow me to buy some C12 race fuel and mix it with my standard premix. I’m also going to switch to Motorex (KTM) synthetic 2 stroke premix because that’s what they want me to use. I’m pretty sure that plus the race fuel and some jetting tweaks, will fix things. Anyone else get their bike delivered with race fuel in the tank? And for anybody who was wondering how his revalve turned out that he was almighty about ... Right from his blog..... Since he wouldnt post it here..... The last few weeks have been a bit rough for many reasons, but in terms of moto… quite a bit has changed. I’ve officially pulled all my hair out when it comes to the suspension on the 150SX. I feel like a skipping record, but no matter what I do to the 4CS, the damn things just don’t work. The track is bumpy and the forks don’t do enough to absorb what they hit, all they do is deflect because they’re so damn stiff. Yet, these are exactly the same springs I’ve ALWAYS run in my 125 and 144SX previously, so there is no way it’s the springs, right? So I bit the bullet and decided to do the KYB mod to the forks. This ultra expensive endeavor was the last hope I had to making something work on the 150SX before I basically give up trying. I figured I could source cartridges myself and hand the components off to Travis at TBT for install, without too much headache, boy was I wrong. I ended up getting raped on the cartridges I wound up buying and in tern, raped even more for the install and setup. I actually spent around $1800 between the components and labor, which is crazy. Now, I will get around 800 of that back when I sell the leftover bits from the KYB source forks AND 4CS internals. So in the end, it will have only cost me a grand, but that’s a lot for suspension in my book. First day of testing went like shit, it’s no different! The forks are harsh, firm and even when I tried to bottom them, 1/3rd of the tube wasn’t being used. I picked up the phone and called Travis right away, not being rude, but a bit frustrated. Both the front AND rear felt over sprung to me, yet the fork springs in particular were what I’ve always run. I can hear him on the other side of the phone scratching his head. We tried all the usual stuff, but even the clickers made little to no difference outside of stability loss. I did a few laps and gave up trying to ride the thing out of frustration. $7000 bike + $1000 of suspension mods and it’s unridable. Other guys are riding around their 16′ 150’s no problem, one of them rode by bike, did a lap came back and said my tuner was a joke. I watched him ride, his bike didn’t move in the stroke at all. I don’t know what he was complaining about, but boy his bike didn’t look good either. I’ve been getting all this contradictory information from so many different tuners. What frustrates me is that I asked so many questions before pulling the trigger and frankly, I feel like I’ve been lied to. In my world, you either know what you’re doing, or you don’t. You can’t tell someone; your problems will be solved, if the problems haven’t changed at all. The forks still have GOBS of stiction and did from the moment I picked them up. They’re still harsh as can be and unridable. They still feel very over-sprung, even though the springs which are in them, should be the same ones I’ve run before. Heck, even my sag numbers are right on. So what the &%$#@! is the problem? I’m not an idiot, I know how to ride a motorcycle and I know what I want. I now have the same suspension as my friends YZ250F and it doesn’t work. The only thing we can think of is that somehow WP didn’t ship the right springs with these forks. Travis forgot to measure them, which is a real shame and annoying because that’s his job, ya know? That’s how you prevent things like this from happening, it’s how you are confident in the building process, so when the customer complains, you know for sure what you did was right. The manual for the bike also states some numbers that don’t seem right at all. They want my weight of rider to run a .40 spring, two rates lower then stock on a 197lb bike. Yet the 211lb 250SX (14lb difference) for my weight, the right spring is .44!!! I’m sorry, but 14lb is NOT causing this problem.There is no way a 194lb KTM 144SX from 2007 with .42 springs that worked fine, is somehow such a dramatically different machine then a 198lb KTM 150SX from 2016 with .42 springs. What they’re saying is the new bike puts less weight on the front end? Enough of a difference to run two less rates? That’s the difference between wearing gear and not wearing gear. I’m absolutely not that sensitive, I ride bikes made for heavier people on a regular basis, with 4 rates higher on the springs then I would normally run and they work fine. Spring rates don’t account for the massive stiction the WP fork tubes have. Spring rates also don’t account for the bike’s inability to use up even 3/4 of it’s travel. Travis swears the oil height is right, but to me the fork feels like the oil height is way wrong, they feel like the clamp shim on the base valve is too big, they feel like the springs are WAY too stiff (.46 or so) but I have no way to prove anything without becoming the tuner once more. So here I am, at a precipice. I spend $120 on a set of springs which are certified and measured properly, install them myself, measure preload myself, to find out it’s not the problem, or I take the whole &%$#@!ing bike to Travis, drop it off and say fix it. I paid him one thousand dollars to make my &%$#@!ing bike work and it’s far away from working. The worst part is, this last thursday is the LAST time I can ride until June. I bought the bike so I could ride it, not so I could be pissed off and not be able to ride. Someone with more money then I have, would drop it back off at the dealer and say “fix it”, but in the end, what are they going to do? Absolutely nothing and neither will Travis. He will charge my credit card for the springs and at this moment in time, I don’t feel they are the problem. So I don’t know what to do and frankly, I’m over it. I haven’t re-upped my milestone subscription and I’m not going to. I hate that piece of shit, bumpy-ass worthless track they made, worst layout they’ve ever had and I despise the suspension on my new bike. I’m just over the whole thing and if someone took the whole thing away tomorrow and gave me my money back, I’d probably be the happiest of all. That to me is a very sad thing to say, but it’s the truth. I just feel I’ve made a terrible mistake. All I want to do is ride some moto, but it seems every chance I have, something gets in the way. From borrowing other people’s bikes, to the absolutely worthless track which gets bumpy as all get out thanks to the poor design, to me even buying a bike and it not working. I’ve tried everything to get riding again this year and nothing has worked.
  18. dmm698

    Sick of this bike

    The TPS is clocked to a position, which is set by a voltage. If it is installed incorrectly the bike will run very poorly if at all. Had this problem when i busted a TPS on a kx250f. did you just bolt it up and plug it in and call it good?
  19. dmm698

    2016 KX450F SFF TAC Settings

    Im running 103mm of sag and it corners really good. Fork pressure i've been running is 174 inner / 10 outer / 184 balance. The forks are OK with this, but i think they could be better. Im going to try and see what happens if i bring the balance down a bit, and the outer, so something like 175/8/175 or something and see how that feels. I could live with the forks as they are right now and be cool with it, its just the shock is so harsh in the acceleration chop. Big braking bumps will make the thing kick like a bull too, to the point i've had the seat come up and smack me in the butt pretty hard a few times.
  20. dmm698

    2016 KX450F SFF TAC Settings

    I've been running 174 inner 10 outer 183 balance. I notice the same thing on slap down landings, however it's pretty good everywhere else. I'm 180 pounds (80kg). 10 hours and both fork seals are leaking, tried using a tear off to clean them out and no luck. Anyways, the shock sucks. It's soooo harsh under acceleration through square edge chop. I'm like 2.5 turns out on high speed and 14 out on comp and 12 on rebound.
  21. dmm698

    2016 kx450f clutch whine when hot.

    I forget who suggested I try it but it's all I've ran the past few years. It's cheap, and works well. All my 11 250f saw which had quite a bit of work done to it motor wise and at 85 hours when I did a crank everything looked really good. Bike was on its original clutch when I sold it with 115 hours. My 13 450 had nothing but rosella, and my 16 is the same thus far. Lot of engine builders recommend it. Kawasaki oil is just rebranded oil for more $...
  22. dmm698

    2016 kx450f clutch whine when hot.

    i've run an extra 75-100cc of oil in my 13 and now my 16. no issues. I also run shell rotella 15-40.
  23. dmm698

    how big is the jump from a 250mm front rotor to a 270mm?

    I wont even ride without one anymore, its that noticeable.
  24. dmm698

    Pro Honda HP2 2-Stroke Race oil

    I run it strictly with straight 100LL and have had zero issues with it. Although its like 8 dollars for 16 ounces, so im not sure how you're getting double the amount for 2 dollars less.
  25. have been running no-toil for years. In both 2 and 4 strokes. Took my bikes to southwick a few weeks ago, only ended up riding my yz. Looking back i thank myself, because i sucked a TON of sand through that filter. Somehow the cylinder was fine, but the crank was covered in sand. The main bearing oil feed holes were full of sand. Thankful I didnt do that to my 16kx, because the yz was cheap to rebuild compared to a new 450. Comparing a twin air filter to the no toil the twin air seems like a better filter as far as the pores go in the foam. I called no-toil saying i've used their filters a lot, and their oil and never had a problem. They seemed very receptive, and asked me to send pictures. Their decision was I hadn't used enough oil on the filter. They felt bad and sent me some stuff in the mail including an "extreme" filter thats supposedly better for sand..