kurbe397

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About kurbe397

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  1. Excel A60 is the strongest thing out there because of the hard anodizing process used. Damn near bullet proof. They only come in black.
  2. That sucks really bad. I've been eyeballing Talon and Kite hubs. Are they the Evos? OEM bearings or aftermarket? I would call Dubya, tell them what's up. They may have a suggestion or be willing to coat that inner area to tighten it up a few .001". http://www.dubyausa.com/contact-us/
  3. Thanks. This was my first try at it. $50 to strip and $60 to re-anodize so $110 total. I dropped it off and picked it up locally. http://www.danco.net/Anodizing%20Aluminum.asp
  4. Home Depot route... Old man with a sore back route...
  5. Cheapest option other than a pick axe would probably be to rent a grading tractor with a box blade and ripping teeth.
  6. Been working on taking my 2013 RMZ450 from a red platform to blue. Picked up a triple clamp from Ride Eng to help the front feel more planted but wasn't in a hurry to put something red back on my bike. I pressed out the steering stem and sent the top and bottom clamps to an anodizer to strip the red anodizing and re-anodize it blue. I made a mistake saying I was looking for iridium blue. It pretty much came back full on purple. Such is life...
  7. 2013-2017 RMZ450 is pretty much the same but I would stay away from the air forks.
  8. That depends on your machine and riding style. You’ll start to feel it when it happens. Especially sitting on the line for a moto. Rotella is designed for diesel engines that don’t rev past 4K with dry clutches or automatic trans. It’s the only thing I used to put in our dump truck and heavy equipment.
  9. Rotella and other full synthetics not for wet clutches will eventually lead to high spots and/or grooves on your friction plates. If you ride hard this will happen sooner than later. The synthetic formula actually provides too much protection from friction and the friction plates will eventually wear unevenly. This leads to a ‘grabby’ clutch when it gets bad. This is the same reason NHRA engine builders run standard non synthetic oil in most engines they build. Full synthetics don’t allow the wear parts to break in during the short engine life.
  10. Also I know an aftermarket manufacturer who wanted to dress up there bike for a test ride and a story in MXA. He took his stock wheels to a machine shop and had them turn both hubs on a metal lathe just enough to get rid of the dull cast look. They were super clean when I saw them. He was talking about taking them to be hard anodized to get the strength and bling of aftermarket without spending $$$ on a new set of wheels. This was in May and I still haven’t seen the article yet.
  11. Dubya does Cerakote finishes. They have a brown magnesium color that looks totally trick!!! http://www.dubyausa.com/dubya-offers-cerakote-finish/
  12. I'm curious why a lowering link softens the rear end on a Honda while making all the other brands stiffer? Maybe that knuckle is the key? I do know that the lowering link from Ride Eng for pre '17 comes with the knuckle and cost around $400. Maybe that's why Ride doesn't just sell the link only for the Hondas?
  13. Call Adrian at Ride Engineering and tell him what you're wanting to do. He's super knowledgeable and a 'no BS' kinda guy. He'll explain what to expect from a lowering link and how it improves handling. The setting I ended up liking on the JGR link actually has the same specs as the Ride Eng link so I paid an extra $75 to find out Ride's link is as good as anything else out there. (800) 805 1516 https://ride-engineering.com
  14. I put a JGR lowering link on my RMZ450. Even though it's a little more than other brands I went with the JGR because it's adjustable with 6 different inserts. Each insert set has different offsets to allow adjustment in the amount lowered. https://www.jgrmx.com/collections/jgrmx-parts As far as straight up lowering I would start by removing my seat cover and shaving the seat foam down first. Reason being that the lowering link will change the leverage ratio of your shock so the more you lower it the stiffer the suspension gets. I almost got tossed over the bars seat bouncing jumps with the most extreme lowered settings on the adjustable link. I ended up using setting 4 of 6 while softening up my high speed compression 2 clicks and slowing the rebound 2 clicks. It does have an overall firmer feel but for me it's great because that firmer feel also feels more solid allowing the rear end to track the front with much less slippage or wandering.
  15. Maybe both? How about worn reeds with an air leak at the exhaust port for example? The plug color is what confuses me. This is the exact reason I don't work on cars anymore. Took me 3 weeks once to figure out a stretched timing chain was causing a catalytic converter to burn out. Flat rate my ass right into the dirt!!