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About kurbe397

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  1. Check this out
  2. I can't believe I got sucked into simplifying this but ok. If I called FC and asked them how long OEM springs are they could most likely give me a spec compared to the springs they sell. I could then measure the original springs I pulled out of my forks to determine if they are OEM or not. Of course all of this is a moot point if I were to simply install the new springs and tweak the settings based on how they handle and perform.
  3. I'm pretty sure FC would know specs on original/stock springs.
  4. Rocky Mountain ATV has great diagrams to reference. Left https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/1 Right https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/0
  5. I would call Factory Connection to get it straight from the horses mouth. They did my suspension and are always super helpful when I have questions.
  6. I would go with the 150. It's newer and KTMs always came with way better stock parts. Even 8 yrs ago they were ready to race. The 450 is a beast if your fitness isn't top notch and older carbureted 4 strokes are a pain in the ass to start sometimes. As long as you get a good deal you can always sell it on Craigslist.
  7. The lowering link changes the geometry and leverage on the shock. I experienced this first hand when I added a JGR link to my RMZ450. The back end would track AWESOME but I had to slow down the rebound and soften the compression settings to fine tune it. When I tested the most extreme lowered setting I would almost get kicked off the bike when seat bouncing no matter how slow the rebound was. I ended up settling on setting 4 of 6 which is just a little lower than Ride Engineering's link but for all practical purposes the same.
  8. [emoji121]️ I agree. If you had no leak then the oil had to go somewhere. Most likely a clogged crankcase vent or your rings weren't seated properly. Does the crankcase vent hose have oil around the end that drains? Either way it sounds like the fuel additive broke loose whatever was stuck. Just because you don't see smoke doesn't mean you weren't burning oil.
  9. Looks like the lowering links are only available for the 250-500 bikes. Here's another link for lowering items. http://www.motosupply.com/beta-motorcycles-beta-beta-rrrs-lowering-p-2400.html
  10. Beta makes a lowering kit. http://www.americanbeta.com/content/2”-lowering-kit The other option would be to put a lowering link on the rear suspension. This will not only lower the rear end but stiffen it up also because of the changed leverage ratio. If you want to lower the bike without changing the suspension performance the kit might be the best option. What kind of budget do you have?
  11. What Motox367 said. [emoji1369][emoji1303] If you want to race, you should graduate to a KTM or Husky 125 until you're winning schoolboy and/or Int class. If you don't race and are just out for fun, the 4 stroke is more user friendly but won't teach you how to maintain momentum like the 2 strokes.
  12. Fuel injected electric start!!! '18 for sure. I want a husky myself just because the orange is tough to look at.
  13. I've been out for a while also and just got back in this year. I was a 125 Int rider back in the days of smokers. In '08, after 12 years of skydiving, I decided to jump back on the 4 stroke revolution. I bought a CRF250R and started racing +30. It would start ok cold from TDC with the choke on or without the choke if it had been sitting for a few minutes. If it was hot though it was almost impossible to start. Anytime I stalled it during a race I'd lose up to a full lap before getting it going again. Made racing not fun anymore. Low and behold one day when I was riding I realized I never messed with the extra little lever mounted on the clutch perch. I held the lever, kicked 'er over and BOO YAH it fired right up! I felt like such an idiot. For 6 months I had no idea 4 strokes had a 'hot start' lever. This time around I went to a fuel injected 4 stroke and haven't had any issues with starting hot or cold.
  14. Service manual calls for Showa SS 19 or equivalent. I found this thread saying it's 5w. https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/872325-showa-ss19-fork-oil/ Honda has an SS19 fork oil for Showa https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1065/40497/Pro-Honda-HP-Fork-Oil-SS-19
  15. Definitely agree with greenwrench on the lean pop and lean air/fuel mix. The left over oxygen from the lean mixture igniting in your head pipe when you let off the throttle is what causes the pop and part of what makes the pipe hotter. When you pull the carb to clean it, it's good to remove the main and pilot jets and blow them both out with compressed air. If you don't have a compressor you can get away with using just carb cleaner if you poke a piece of safety wire through the holes first to make sure they're clear. While you have the jets out write down the number stamped on the side of each one. That way if just adjusting the air screw isn't enough you don't have to open up the carb again to know what size jets you have. Then it's just a matter of ordering/getting jets a size or two richer. The extremely hot pipe is also due to the engine running hotter. With an abundance of oxygen in the air/fuel mixture the combustion is a quicker(terms of milliseconds) and more violent burn causing higher cylinder temps. Think in terms of an "explosion" going off in your cylinder with all the oxygen igniting almost instantaneously. A richer air/fuel mixture will burn cooler with a lower combustion temperature. This is due to the air/fuel burn being slower and more controlled. Since gasoline is the catalyst but the oxygen is actually what burns, too little gas allows combustion to be wild and out of control. The perfect amount of fuel in the air/fuel mixture allows the burn to ignite at the spark plug and have a smooth solid flame front that burns through the combustion chamber and ends at the cylinder walls and piston. It all comes down to how fast the gases expand inside the cylinder because this expansion is what pushes the piston. A smooth burn puts more force down on the piston instead of out on the cylinder walls and head. Of course this all happens in a matter of milliseconds but that's the science behind whats going on. Lean is mean until it's not because your engine melts or blows apart. As a general rule carbureted race engines that are run at the limits of performance are rebuilt every race so they lean those suckers out to make 'em scream. There is a huge difference between something built for reliable fun and something built for $15k - $150k to last one day or one moto running like a beast. "Lean is mean and rich is cool" I'd say this was a tad on the lean side.