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pCp 450

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  1. Cam gear has definitely spun, you’ll need to either replace it or re-index the gear into the correct position. I’m not sure how the valve spring retainer got marred like that, I wouldn’t expect improper timing to do something like that when the bucket is sitting on top. I would investigate further and consider replacement if it’s in budget. If not then I would only lightly use sandpaper to smooth it out. Those aren’t OEM retainers.
  2. No it’s not. Not without changing out all the bikes electronics including the ECU.
  3. Yes you need the seat for it to look right or be flush with plastics and tank. And if you change the seat you need to change the subframe or mount old seat tabs onto new seat. Then you’ll need to figure out how you’re going to mount the 17-18 shrouds to your older radiators. The mounting locations to the radiators are different. You can’t just swap to the new radiators either, as they mount to the frame in different spots and do not hold the condensor. Also, are you sure you can mount the old air boot onto the new airbox? Not sure on that one.
  4. Lots of misinformation in this thread. Facts: 11’ was the 1st year of fuel injection. 12’ was the first year for dual injectors which boosted overall Hp/torque. 11-16 all had Showa single function forks (single spring) 11&12 had type 1 SFF and 13-19 all have type 2 SFF, but with different spring and valving. Type 2 is easier to rebuild IMO. 13-16 have same bodywork, 09-12 had previous gen style bodywork. 14 got the launch control. 15’ got a 270mm oversized front brake and went on a small diet. 16 I would chose 13 and up with the fewest hours on it.
  5. Another common, unnoticed issue is the fact that the camshaft’s gear can slip on the camshaft. When the engine is set at TDC, with the cam dots in their proper position. Do the cam lobes face at 10 and 2 o’clock? Another way to check if that’s not clear, is to look at the circular hole in each cam gear. That circular hole should line up with the lobes. If the alignment is not correct, timing will be off.
  6. In one post you say you took the top end completely off the bike. In the last post you've made, you said you didn't have to take the top end off. Conflicting answers. Do you mean someone else did the work? If so, I would bring it back to them if they are competent. Which at this point I would be questioning. If you broke a valve spring while the bike was running, It would be extremely unlikely that it didn't cause any other damage. After this scenario, at the very least would want to inspect the condition of the piston, cylinder, ports, combustion chamber, etc which would require the cylinder head to be removed. I would also be trying to find the root cause of a broken valve spring. Even with a fatigued valve train, it is rare that the spring will fail before something else went awry. But you did say the bike runs, just doesn't idle well. If that's the case, you didn't severely damage the engine after the broken spring. Your best case scenario to resolve your problem, would be this > If the cylinder head came off the bike, then you would have had to touch the throttle body where the TPS sensor is housed. If this sensor was removed or hit, it can become out of sync. It is very sensitive and even a small knock can throw it off. If we ASSUME the valve train is operable, it's properly timed, proper compression, etc, because it's running. Then I would check your fuel pump filter and checking the TPS output for .6-.62v at closed throttle. TPS calibration is very important from closed throttle to wide open throttle. It's the sensor that tells the ECU how much fuel to send to the injectors throughout the range of throttle positions. EFI system maintenance is often overlooked by owners. By now, your 2014 should have changed it's fuel pump's filter 4 times already!
  7. By checking valve lash, he means valve clearance. This is the gap between the cam lobes and valve buckets at TDC. Intake clearance should be at .10-.15mm and exhaust should be .17-.22. Plenty of info out there to check this important measurement. Why did you just replace valve springs? Did you get a full head rebuild? If you sent your head out to a reputable place, Im sure you're head is all set. To me I suspect a fuel delivery issue. This is a common overlooked maintenance issue for a lot of owners in the EFI era. Fuel pump's strainer should be replaced once a year for optimal performance. Check if yours is dirty (I'm sure it is). If it was really dirty, Clean the injectors. Also, another commonly overlooked problem is the TPS setting. The TPS should have a setting of .6-.62 volts at closed throttle. Again, there is information out there how to check this online. You can reduce the chance of contaminates getting into your tank by using a fuel sock/pre filter. Also, if the bike will be sitting for a while use a stabilizer or drain the fuel.
  8. Sure you can get to the fuel pump's filter, It is serviceable to an extent. Inspect the fuel pump strainer, it's probably brown from grime and contaminates after 5 years. Look at quantum replacement fuel pumps. Before I knew about the quantum pump for $70, I would spray down the strainer with injector cleaner and run it. You also may want to consider cleaning the fuel injectors too. Next check your TPS setting; it should be between .6 -.62v at idle. If the TPS is not calibrated correctly, the computer will not deliver the proper amount of fuel.
  9. With a 14t front, you're going to loose a lot of bottom end power. Rolling on the power (esp at high altitude) in 3rd gear is going to be very tough for the little thumper to pull. It's the equivalent of using a 46t rear and 13 front. I guess if you shift into 2nd for a lot of the turns you'll be OK, but for me I like to pull 3rd in everything but the tightest of turns. I know I wouldn't choose it but to each their own. For what it's worth, I have had a lot of seat time of these KX250F's since '09. Before the 2014 came out, I preferred a 13-51 final drive to keep 3rd gear acceleration proper, but now with the more powerful '14+ I think the stock gearing 13-50 is ideal. The answer will depend on your friend. If the jumps in question are just out or close to the corners, I can't imagine it being a positive change.
  10. Theres a small metal retainer for the cam chain behind the flywheel that should prevent the chain from coming off on the crank end, assuming it's a new & un-stretched chain. Make sure that retainer/guide is there, its held in by a small 8mm head bolt that threads into the case.
  11. What you're looking for is the Service Manual, not the owners manual. Try searching that but it may be unlikely you'll find it online for free. Someone here may be able to send you a .pdf copy through email, though. The paperback version is really handy to have in the shop and worth the money. It can be ordered at your dealer. The rubber head cover gasket probably doesn't need to be replaced. Like someone else mentioned, a light coating of hi-temp silicon around the bottom of the gasket will fix the oil leak. It's relatively common. You should re-torque all the bolts, including the (8) 8mm cam cap bolts, the (4) 12mm head studs, and the two allen head cover bolts. To do this accurately, you will want both an in/lb torque wrench and ft/lb. Unless the oil is actually grey (more precisely a milky color), I'm not sure why anyone is concerned about a coolant leak? Drain the oil and look for signs of coolant mixed with oil, which should look milky. Refill with oil, ride the bike around, and check again for a coolant leak. Make sure you let the bike sit for a few minutes after running before checking, because the oil may appear milky but it's really just from being circulated and bubbling.
  12. pCp 450

    Changing Fork Oil

    What year KX250F do you have? If you have the SFF v2 with 48mm stanchions, you do not need a fork spring compressor. Using a ratcheting tie down strap, put one end of the strap on the anodized blue or green fork cap. Place a rag in-between the cap and strap hook as to not gouge the cap. On the other end of the fork, place a nylon loop strap through the axle hole. I used a "soft tie down strap loop" that is commonly used to not gouge handlebars when using a tie down. Affix the hook of the other end of the ratchet strap to this nylon loop. Now you can ratchet the strap and compress the spring, exposing the damping rod and the locknut you need to remove in order to disassemble the fork. This method works fine to re-install the damping rod's locknut too. If you have a 2011 or 2012 KX250F, you can try make a homemade PVC fork spring compressor like this guy did. home made fork spring compressor
  13. yes, its fine to turn over using your hand on the kickstarter. It's just takes more patience to pin-point exact TDC. Using the kickstarter, you're more likely to over rotate the engine or have trouble dialing in the marks. But it can be done. With the cap removed, you can fit a 14mm socket onto the flywheel nut to turn the crank over and line up TDC marks precisely. It sounds like it's not timed correctly, as others have mentioned. Do not force the motor to turn over. The valves are likely making contact with the piston. You can also remove the flywheel cover to gain access to that 14mm flywheel nut to turn the engine over. With the cover removed, you'll have an easier time removing the stripped plug. If you want to do it this way, be sure to drain the engine oil or lay the bike on it's side. EDIT: now that I'm thinking about it, I can't remember if the flywheel nut is 14 or 17mm.
  14. Why not just go with a used OEM link if youre being $ conscious ? They're all over ebay for less than $50, ofcourse you may have to replace roached bearings. I have the KPA07450 PC link for my '15 KX250F and the difference between stock is subtle. I bought it years ago and have transferred it to all of the KX250F's I've owned with the same results. I prefer it over OEM as it seems to settle the rear end into corners better, helps in choppy conditions that are prone to kicking the rear up, and lowers the seat height to a more comfortable position. Kind of feels like running a few more MM's of race sag but without sacrificing the front end's ability to turn as well. Though there are lots of variables here; I've ran several different shock setups. But in general, the subtle difference is a positive one. FWIW, Factory Connection did not recommend using it in conjuction with their valving specs for whatever reason.
  15. Pro Circuit Length for KX250F (10-16) & KX450F (07-08) is 132.5 mm. The stock length for the 10-16 KX250F is 131.0 mm, and the stock length for the 07 & 08 KX450F is 131.5 mm. All this info is on the Pro Circuit site when looking at this item, not hard to find. PC recommends the PC07450 link for the 2010 to 2016 KX250F which is 132.5mm. The OEM link from a 2006 KX450F is 132.5mm and is the same. The OEM links from a 2010+ KX450F will NOT work well. They are too longer, 135mm+.
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