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FishHound

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About FishHound

  • Rank
    TT Member

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  • Location
    Idaho
  • Interests
    Fishing/prospecting
  1. FishHound

    Slipstream Spitfire S-06 Windscreen for DR650‏

    Dz, Try adjusting/tilting the shield back a bit the noise should decrease your getting some buffetting. You'll know right away when you get it dialed in but the wind will always hit you some place on the helmet unless your like 5'5". Also get rid of those finger screws that came with it and get some allen heads of the same size. Those finger screws constantly worked themselves loose after a while even when cranked down with pliers.
  2. FishHound

    Slipstream Spitfire S-06 Windscreen for DR650‏

    Yeah, it's the tinted one I think it looks a little nicer than the clear on a darker bike. Your generally looking over the shield anyway. It sure helps take the wind pressure off your chest when cruzing 55+.
  3. FishHound

    Slipstream Spitfire S-06 Windscreen for DR650‏

    Mine works great, and it is hard to beat for the price. I'm about 5'10" and the air hits my helmet at the top of the visor. Just try and match the slope of the shield to the shroud and the wind will hit you smooth. The more perpendicular you make the wind shield the more buffeting you will notice.
  4. FishHound

    Tires..

    +1 A good inexpensive 50/50 tire.
  5. FishHound

    I know it's DS tire question, sorry.

    3.00-21 on the front 5.10-17 on the rear I like them a lot so far, a real good 50/50 tire for the price. I Ran into a DAMN MONSOON:eek: the other day on a mountain highway and the 244's handled it great. Unfortunatly none of the rest of my gear was up to the task, I was practically hypothermic by the time I got to the next town.
  6. FishHound

    Noise after a valve adjust - DR650

    Are you sure you were at correct top dead center? Check this thread... http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=562905&highlight=top+dead+center I made this mistake the first time I did it.
  7. FishHound

    Solved my seat issues

    I shaved down, drilled out and stepped the DR stock seat myself and it looked pretty good but not near as good as yours. It defiantly helped out my ass a lot but it was still the stocker after a couple of hours. I tried a couple of different foams but nothing worked out very well, I always went back to my modified stock foam. After about a year I broke down and purchased a Corbin and really like it especially on the pavement. I would still like to redo my stocker to have a second seat with a narrower profile and smooth texture for long days in the back country. The basket weave pattern is great on my Corbin but it does collect dirt. You mind saying what kind of foam you used and could a guy find a chunk at a local appostery store? Thanks,
  8. FishHound

    valve adjust

    Just go for it, if I can do it you certainly can. I would suggest getting the Valve adjusting kit from Kenteck, it will make things a lot easier, and still much cheeper than taking it into the shop. Go to the DR Faq link at the top of the DR page there is a link in the first post to a PDF file with pics that makes it nothing but a follow-a-long.
  9. FishHound

    kick stand cut off switch

    (A bit of cut & paste on my part) DR650 NSU and Clutch Bypass There is more to bypassing the starter/side stand interlock system than just bypassing the clutch switch & jumping the side stand switch wires. There are other components in the system you want to eliminate so they will not be a problem if they are left in & fail later. Suzuki's system on the DR650 is pretty simple compared to some others. The following components are what is used in the system: The clutch lever switch, side stand switch, neutral switch, side stand relay & a double diode set for the side stand relay & neutral light. The engine kill switch is also involved in it. The system works by controlling whether or not there is 12 volts supplied to the CDI unit (capacitive discharge ignition unit), the CDI unit needs 12V to operate. The 12V comes from the side stand relay to the ignition kill switch & then to the CDI unit. The 12V power to the starter solenoid through the clutch lever switch also comes off the ignition kill switch, that's why the starter won't work if the kill switch is pushed in or the side stand is down with the bike in gear. The 12V is supplied to the ignition kill switch when the side stand relay is energized. The side stand switch & the neutral switch controls whether or not the side stand relay is energized by providing or not providing a ground for the side stand relay's operating coil. If there is no ground the relay is not energized. The ground is provided when the side stand is up, side stand switch is closed, or if the transmission is in neutral & the neutral switch is closed. The neutral switch also operates the neutral light & that is the reason for the 2 diode set, to keep the two functions separated. The reason you don't want to just cut & splice the wires from the side stand switch is that you will be leaving the side stand relay in place & that is just something that can fail leaving you with a bike that won't start. To do the bypass eliminating what is not needed do the following: Unscrew the side stand switch & disconnect it at its plug located in the area behind the gas tank. No need to cut any wires. Next go to the side stand relay located on a post on the frame just to the left of the CDI unit just in back of the battery & remove it. This is where you make the connection that bypasses the relay & permanently provides the 12V to the ignition kill switch. There are 4 wires going into the connector for the side stand switch, 2 orange, one green & one orange with black tracer. You want to make a jumper that connects one of the orange wires to the orange with black tracer. This will require getting small male connectors or as I did make a bridge connector from sheet aluminium (thin like trailer aluminium) that you plug in the connector. Securely tape the connector so it can't short out. I also removed the 2-diode set that controls the neutral light. You don't need to do this; if the diode failed you just wouldn't have a neutral light. The diode set is plugged into a connector located in the area just behind the gas tank. Make a jumper that connects the blue wire (from the neutral light) to the blue with black tracer wire (to the neutral switch). Again here I made a jumper out of sheet aluminium. Securely tape the connector so it can't short out. To eliminate the clutch switch just go to where the clutch switch wires connect to the bikes wiring harness behind the headlight fairing. Disconnect the wires & plug the harness side wires together (male to female connectors). You now have bypassed the starter/side stand safety switch system eliminating the items that are not needed. Remember you now can start the engine with it in gear & the clutch engaged & you can drive off with the side stand down, both of which could get you hurt or killed so do this at your own risk.
  10. FishHound

    Noob Question, Vibration through handlebars

    First try a new set of gel grips, the stockers are awful. A necessary and inexpensive way to start solving this problem IMO. It sure made a world of difference for me.
  11. FishHound

    Drilling carb

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184 Although I would drill the hole the same diameter as the original hole on the opposite side. I think he drilled them out larger.
  12. FishHound

    Article on 08 DR650 v. 08 KLR650

    I bet the final vote would have been different if the DR had an aftermarket seat and small windshield on it.
  13. FishHound

    '09 DR650-hesitation off idle

    I had the same problem you described starting from a stop. It ended up being that I had my idle set way too low. DR's like to purr... I agree, doing the simple carb mods and removing the snorkel are almost a MUST unless your going for optimum MPG. Even then adjusting your fuel mixture a bit richer than the stock setting is still a good Idea.
  14. FishHound

    I know it's DS tire question, sorry.

    So I cleared off a spot on the work bench and went at it last weekend. Anybody thinking about trying to change tires yourself, go for it. Just make sure to get at least 1 real good tire iron. The 16” black one that came in the Motion Pro set made short work of what I thought was going to be a PITA. After letting the tires warm up nicely in the sun, I started and was done in a couple of hours. The only problem I had was popping the bead on the rear tire. The C-clamp I used on the front was not big enough for the rear but my bench vice was. Not one busted or scraped knuckle. I still can't believe it, I'm always beating myself up on projects like this, generally wearing my scrapes, scabs and scars like badges of honor. I was left with nothing to show for it except new tires on the bike and an extra $50-$60 bucks in my pocket. Cool. My first impression of the Shinko 244's is good. I haven’t been able to take them on the dirt yet but they have worked well on the street. I took them up to 90 mph and they felt good. They don’t hold quite as well as the stock TW’s in the tight twisties but that could have alot to do with how new these tires are. The 244's do have a good feel to them some have described them as predictable. I understand now, you can really tell when or if they are going to slip on the road before they do. I’m happy with the switch.
  15. FishHound

    I know it's DS tire question, sorry.

    Well thanks for the input everyone. After all that I opted for a set of the Shinko 244's. I do apreciate everyone taking the time to comment. Thanks It simply came down to the price with times being the way they are. A set of tires, tire irons (3) and a pack of wheel weights for just under $115 shipped (Motorcycle Superstore on-line). The MT-21 front cost as much as both Shinko's. So I figure these will be a good first tire to try after the stock Trail Wings and get me by for now. I can decide where to go from here as my skills increase. They'll be here tomorrow. This will be my first attempt at changing a motorcycle tire. I’ve seen the You-Tube video’s and read a few of the tire changing threads. I have all the stuff "I think" I need so here goes. I'm looking forward to my date in the garage with Suzi this weekend, keeping a few beers around at arms length of course, to help keep the blood pressure down. I wouldn't want to blow a gasket. I'm also going to swap out my headlight bulb with a better PIAA one and replace the OEM tool kit with a welding rod holder. I’ll let you guys know how it all goes and what I think of the Shinko's.
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