steamboatshadetreeme

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About steamboatshadetreeme

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    Colorado
  1. i agree with chuck to an extent -- i only find one part number for the shaft -- but anyway -- the clutch cover when installed has a protrusion inside which holds the shaft over so all the mechanism is in the proper place --
  2. go to ricks motorsports electric .. they sell a "trigger coil" for your bike --$75.00 their part number is 71-524 ... i have used their stuff for many years with great success
  3. i have been dealing with Rekluse for years and have yet to find any problem or question that they couldn't answer --just call them -- you can talk to an actual person and if they can't help you out i would be AMAZED .. i just talked to them about one of the original z-start clutches which has been discontinued for about 13 years and guess what !!!! there was someone who knew all the answers.. computers are very good tools but NOTHING beats a true conversation
  4. that tire has seen lots of pavement miles and was not balanced -- they tend to "hop" up and down when they are out of balance -- any tire will suffer the same problem
  5. DO not try to force the needle jet (part #11) down into the float bowl --it comes out the top toward the slide .. if you take an old main jet (hex type mikuni) and screw it into the bottom then you can lightly tap on the jet to get it out -- just make sure one of the flats on the jet is aligned with the positioning pin in the carb body so you don't damage that -- it is what keeps the needle jet in proper position---- also be sure to replace the o ring on the needle jet setter -- #26 in the second diagram-- the needle jet setter is #25-- if that oring leaks it is like having no main jet
  6. i have had many similar issues with customer bikes -- sounds like you cdi box is going south.. it is in the box with the battery .. costs about 100 bux - i have replaced a bunch of them and it has worked every time
  7. clean the carb and adjust the valves -- fresh gas --that should solve your problems
  8. as for the clutch cable -- if you have the original even in bad shape -- contact motionpro and if you send the cable they can build one to match -- pretty fast turn around and excellent work --i use them a lot in my repair business
  9. i wouldn't bother with the wheel bearings -- if you doubt then just get some new ones --or just ride it until you do need new ones -- seems like yamaha front wheel brgs go away fairly often ..
  10. looks like a brake line banjo bolt -- does you bike now have a stoplight switch on the rear brake ?? if so --- someone dropped that dolt when they installed the switch and could not find it so ... if it is a 10 mm bolt with 1.0 thread -- brake line banjo
  11. the diaphragm in the pics is not an accelerator pump --it is part of the air cut valve -- your problem is something plugged or restricted in the pilot circuit.. pilot jet , pilot passage , transition hole (small hole right under the engine side of the slide) or something in this part of the idle circuit
  12. if you search PBI sprockets --they will make anything you want -- and the ones i have had made were not that expensive
  13. because of the auto de-comp a compression test is misleading -- you should do a leak down test -- way more informative --- these xr's are almost bullet broof if you change oil often and keep the air filter clean and sealed -- good luck with your ride
  14. just get a trail tech endurance or whatever -- they will work on anything like that.. maybe not the easiest to read the digital readout but it will work easily
  15. at one time honda did have a plant in Ohio - Marysville i think .. early gl1500 , i think the pc800 maybe others -- some atv .. all assembled there -- parts were from japan