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bultaco

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About bultaco

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Off road riding, SCUBA, airplane pilot
  1. I have a well modified 2004 DR650se...carb, exhaust, lights, pegs, armor, Cogent suspension, XR forks up front, rear 18", seat...the 2007 XT225 has exhaust and carb mods, pegs. As much as I live the simplicity and wanting to to some adventure riding...These guys get a bit heavy in the tighter stuff. Since there are few lighter dual sport bikes...What are my options? Could go for just dirt only bikes: KX250 2 stroke & KX100 for the lady YZ 250 2 stroke & older XR200 for the lady CR250 2 stroke & CRF150 for the lady Modified 2 strokes for the woods....2 strokes just save tons of weight...100 off my DR and about 60 off the XT Thanks, Joe
  2. When I was a teenager, my 50cc Puch Dakota was a blast on the trails. My two friends with a Bultaco Brinco and a Bultaco Tiron labored along the trails...at least 50 lbs heaver each over my Puch. Now I own a Suzuki Dr650se, modified with a pumper carb, modified air box, exhaust, new suspension front and back....along with my girlfriend's Yamaha XT225...we ride 2 track trails...having intended to do some dual sport rides....limited time and an aversion to riding on the crazy streets with the distracted drivers is not appealing. In short, these very reliable bikes are heavy and are tiring on the trails. So I was looking to perhaps replace them with a couple of two strokes and save a combined 150lbs of metal...A modified YZ250, KTM300 XC-W or such and a KX100 perhaps for my girlfriend. Both tweeked for the trails. Granted, I could lighten our bikes a bit, batteries, exhaust, plastic tanks...minimal weight loss none the less. Any suggestions for some possible alternatives? It would be nice to see some Asian, 2 stroke dual sports....light, powerful Thanks
  3. San Francisco. DR650 modified for trails. Have ridden for 20 years. Look to hook up with other riders to go to riding areas within 200 miles.
  4. Thanks to all of you for your suggestions! I am in the San Francisco area. Joe
  5. Even though I enjoy the local parks here in No.CA....looking for adventure-like vistas, forested trails...any suggestions of where to go? Thanks, Joe
  6. Putting on TM40 carb. There is a large vent tube that runs from the front of the air box up to almost the top of the neck of the frame, crosses over to the opposite side and connects to a plastic elbow 90 degree joint before running all the way back down the top of the frame, down along the carb and then into the top of the engine case behind the starter. Why is it almost 4 feet long when it could run straight from the front of the air box and straight into the top of the engine case just about a foot way? Is there of function of this long tube? The accessory air filter that ran from the old BST carb that sits under the seat....no longer need it for the TM$) carb? Putting on a crankshaft seal retainer from Procycle. The top bolt used is where two electrical connectors are also fastened (seems like one is from the battery). Do those connectors go under or on top of the seal retainer? Not sure of the material of the retainer and if electrical conductivity is necessary. Will connect stock tank to TM 40 for now...saving for a larger tank...will the use of the vacuum hoses from the old tank to the TM 40...which are necessary with a vacuum petcock...detract in any way from the effectiveness of this new carb? Thank so much in advance, Joe
  7. Dimensions of pt#04211-09149 so I can get it at a auto parts store fast....no dealers have them in stock. Thanks
  8. Stopped immediately. Cleaned air box out, oiled filter. Since I was not going to ride again for awhile, I removed drain screw on carb. Returned from affairs on the east coast a few months later. Before trying to start, I opened air box again just to check. What? mixture of oil on the bottom of air box and strong smell of gas. Is there something stuck in my carb that is allowing gas to flow from above the open drain screw opening and enables it to flow to the air box? Perhaps carb needs a cleaning. What should I be looking for? Thanks so much for your help.
  9. Have ridden for 35 years...started at age 10. MX in western europe...lots of fun. Then ironically, at the age of 20...while riding in the mountains with friends...coming home from a picnic...some lost cage driver on these donkey trails...nowhere to go when I rounded the curve at about 40 mph. Jumped straight up to avoid direct impact...bars flipped my legs over my head, I impacted windshield with shoulder and helmet...flew over car that was following him. By a miracle, I was not killed. Four months of recuperation, internal bleeding, dislocated shoulder, concussion...lost 30 lbs. You know...I realized that what I enjoyed was being out in the mountains and taking in the beauty. I now ride "adventure rides" almost exclusively off road...the street is much to dangerous in my opinion. I don't have to soar through the air...I won't have someone land on me....and I can challenge myself on the trails without excess speed or jumps. Check out a site called advrider.com, they have some neat ride reports of some wonderful, life defining explorations. As you can see in my photo...trials riding in europe with friends...now that was also a fun way to explore the endless trails and have fun with friends. There are many other responsibilities that I have in life...no need for triples, excess speed or street riding. Life is already very short...I'd rather have the health to ride later into life than have it cut short or become maimed. Food for thought.
  10. Removed clutch cover on my 2004 DR650 SE to reinstall Neutral Sending Unit screw...after much to do about which locktite to use...while tightening...crack goes the fragile plastic NSU... so off she comes...no neutral indicator now. That is alright...just like any other dirt bike. But now, in trying to remove the clutch cover gasket...it is fused / baked on. Short of trying to scrape it off and gouging the surface so as to ruin a flush seal...Can you soak it in something so as to be able to peal it off? My bike has 4,500 miles on it. Thanks so much for your experience and help. Joe
  11. Opened up the side cover, 4,500 mi on bike, the lower screw came off with no effort at all...could have taken off with my finger. Since I have always ridden dirt bikes and will be using this bike for some adventure travel...I would rather remove the NSU than locktite. How much do I remove? Does the round plate behind it also come out? Do just cut wire on the inside of the case just inside the rubber plug that seals it from the rear of the engine? Removing plug means coming up with a way to plug it again. Didn't know if cutting the wires would leave some current running through the end of the wire and create other problems. Very tight to get in there to seal off cut wire....using a knife and cutting just inside the engine side of rubber plug, which separates, the outer and inner sides of the engine seems to make sense. Lastly does the hole made by removing the NSU have to be capped with anything...plate or something? Thanks very much for your help, Joe
  12. Pro Wheel in OR build to wheel for a bit over $200 an a 2.15 rim, series 3 NOT 2. I sent them the whole wheel so that they could use my hub and get a sense of the spoke bends. Looks great. Raised the set a tad. Question. Is a larger diameter rear wheel equivalent of a larger rear sproket as far as gearing goes? I am running 15/42. Would like more punch for off road: 1) 14/15/16 and a 46 rear with a 520 chain better? Easier to change with c clip link? 2) stay with 525 and just run 14/15 front for off and on road? Also rebuilt rear shock by Cogent Dynamics. 8.1 spring, 8mm longer shaft for a bit more seat height. Not to mention XR600 front forks with Race Tech Gold valves and .50 springs and XR 600 axle along with a caliper relocation bracket and ground XR wheel spacer to accomodate the original dr front wheel and rotor:ride:
  13. I ordered a few larger sockets from Performance Tool on line. Received them and noticed that each had a California Proposition 65 warning lable for cancer causing substances...Never seen that before when buying tools at the store here in CA. Called the manufacturer since I was curious as to the source of this threat...they said "we put this lable on all of the tools that we send to CA. You'll have to check out Prop 65 to get more information". Well, I did: http://oehha.ca.gov/prop65/prop65_list/files/P65single052011.pdf I guess that I can't go outside any more. Nuts. Not sure what the chemical or element on this list resides in my new trio of socket...guess that I'll have to place the HAZMAT suit on before using them
  14. I have a DR6560 and would like to meet up with other riders for some day or multiday dual sport rides. Give me a holler:ride:
  15. Went for a ride on the DR650 after some maintenance. New oil and filter. After leaving the bike in the garage...I later saw that the view window had a frosted white galze on the inside over about 3/4 of the viewing glass. I could see that the oil was its normal carmel color when moving the bike. This white glaze was NOT present before the ride. It does not dissapate when the bike is rocket to allow the oil to flow over it. New oil on air filter also...keeps draining into bottom recepticle even though I was careful to drain filter well after putting oil on it. Any insights welcome:worthy: Additional Information: More info: I used a Unifilter (which seemed more porous that the original that I had in there) and used SAE 14W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel oil (No Energy Conservation) on bottom of circle on back of bottle. (API Service, CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4/SM). Bike smoked a bit upon start. I had left one of the header bolts not tight and some liquid had come on to the header...smoking...oil sucked in from light/oversaturated air filter...oil burned in chamber and thus frosted glass? Had drilled out brass plug...put in extended fuel screw...ground down lip on header. So between more porous air filter and more open header...probably getting a bit more lean. Options? Change oil to a more dense oil so doesn't get pulled into engine. Change Uni oil filter to a more dense one as the original one. I have used No Toil with the spray....no problems with oil pooling or dripping In addition perhaps running lean...open up fuel screw a bit.