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AHRMA17L

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About AHRMA17L

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    TT Gold Member

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  • Location
    Oregon
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, Vintage Motocross, Dual Sport

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  1. It has been almost exactly a year since we last did this...any news on whether another BD Group buy will be happening? I need a few kits!
  2. AHRMA17L

    Bike Updates from Weatherman, B of LA and LA PAZ via BAJA PITs

    Any news on 305X, Ace Nielson and crew?
  3. Thanks for the heads up--I'll check to make sure.
  4. I have done a number of fork conversions/upgrades to various bikes over the years. Some have turned out great (DR350 with DR-Z400 clamps and shortened 1996 RM250 forks) and some have turned a good bike into an ill handling Frankenbike (XR400 with 2006 CRF250R forks). Here’s the project: I have a spotless 1990 YZ250WR with no more than 50 hours on it since new. For a number of reasons, I don’t want to sell it and upgrade to a later YZ (I also have a 1999 YZ125 and a 2001 YZ250). I had the shock revalved by Noleen since Clark Jones probably know more about the early 1990’s YZ’s than anyone else. The shock works great! The forks on the YZ250WR…this was the second year for the inverted fork, and it is a rather poor design with lots of stiction, harsh on the little stuff, prone to seal leakage and contamination, etc. The idea is to install a spare set of 2000 or 2001 YZ250 forks on the 1990 YZ250WR. I am not worried about fork performance, but rather geometry/handling concerns. There appears to only be about 1/8” difference between the top of the fork tube and the centerline of the axle, so ride heaight will be OK. Also OK will be the use of the later stem although I’ll have to use the lower bearing from the later bike. The 1998-2003 tripleclamp will then mount right up. THE QUESTIONS: Does anyone know the actual offset of the 1990 clamp or whether the offset is the same as the 1998-2003 YZ250 clamp? The other question is axle dropout distance, which affects trail. Does anyone know the dropout distance from the centerline of the fork to the centerline of the axle for the 1990 YZ and for the 1998-2003 bikes? Thanks!
  5. AHRMA17L

    1978 YZ 400, just bought. Need info!

    Actually, parts are easy to find for the 78 and earlier YZ400 due to it having the same engine design rooted in 1975. The 1979 “F” model is essentially a one year design and entirely different engine platform. The 1979 is rather hard to find parts for. Most of everything can still be purchased through any Yamaha dealer. If there is something you cannot find, call Speed and Sport in Bloomsberg, PA, or go to their website and www.yamatopdog.com. You can also go to www.vintagemx.us to the swapmeet, check www.AHRMA.org for guys that ride the Yamahas. You can find Genuine Yamaha owners and shop manuals on eBay. I may even have an owner's manual for the your "E" model. There are a lot of websites that specifically focus on the evolution YZ’s.
  6. AHRMA17L

    KYB Shock lockup

    Excellent deductive reasoning through experience! It doesn't get any better than that. Thanks for the insight.
  7. AHRMA17L

    SSS Forks slide into 2003 YZ250 Triple Clamps??

    Thanks, I appreciate it guys. The decision was to swap to the SSS forks or to have the existing forks revalved with the Smart Performance Dell Taco kit. I think I’ll just stay with the 2003 forks and go with the Smart Performance revalve. Then again, perhaps the 2004 triple will work, since the aluminum fram triple would require steering stop modification to the frame.
  8. I have seached the threads over the last couple of days and can't seem to find a definitive answer... I have a bone stock 2003 YZ250. Will the 2006 and later SSS forks slide into my existing triple clamps? I realize that there are a number of minor issues (fork lug thickness, 1-2 mm axle spacer width, brake line routing) but I am not concerned about these things. I only want to know whether the forks will slide into the triples, or whether I would need to use a later triple clamp, and if so, what year? Thanks!
  9. AHRMA17L

    KYB Shock lockup

    I realize it is not a KYB, but I had the same exact think happen to both an XR400 and an XR600 I had. The shock on the 600 would work fine when cold, but as soon as it got warm, it would nearly seize to the point of taking 5 seconds for it to rebound. The 400 was "tight" all the time. People told me the same thing (linkage binding, swingarm pivot problem, etc.). I was riding with Tim Morton who had had a lot of XR400s in his fleet, and while he said that it it not common, the piston will sometimes sieze in the Showa shock on the XR400 and 600 (nearly the same shock design). So started the process of elimination. Cleaned and polished the rebound needle. Replaced the seal head/bushing. Still had problems. Replaced the piston/valving stack with a Race Tech Gold Valve. Problem eliminated in both shocks.
  10. AHRMA17L

    Shock Revalve Stack for '90- XR250?

    I have a number of XR600R shocks--some stock, some with Race Tech Gold Valves, and one very special hard anodized shock built for Baja Designs but never used. Are you thinking that it is possible to use the 1991-2000 XR600 shock on the 1986-1995 series XR250?
  11. I stumbled across a low hour 1996 RM250 last weekend for dirt cheap. It has been sitting inside the original owner's shop for the better part of 12 years The catch??? About a year after he bought it, it fell off of his trailer, and the frame is somewhat tweaked behind the steering head--so I need a frame. Anyone have or know where there is a decent to excellent 1996-1997 RM250 frame?
  12. AHRMA17L

    Wheel bearings you used to use

    The Pivot Works Kits are Chinese--that's why they are cheap. Just go down to your local bearing house with the correct numbers and buy good American, Japanese or German bearings for a fraction of OEM cost.
  13. AHRMA17L

    Bought a lemon!!

    I have a 2000 XR600 with about 150 original miles on it--literally like new. I's sell the engine alone (all electronics, kickstart and shift lever, but no carburetor) for $1750. Whole bike, street licensed and ready to go for $2800. I have a 1988 XR600 with about 1500 miles since new that I'd sell the engine alone (same as above) for $1250. Whole bike ready to go, street licensed for $1995. Both are near perfect, have lots of accessories and need absolutely nothing.
  14. AHRMA17L

    XR600 Race Tech Gold Valve Settings

    You are right...rebuilding a shock is very simple if one is patient enough to follow the steps. If everone only knew that two snap rings hold the whole thing together, everyone would service their own shock!
  15. AHRMA17L

    XR600 Race Tech Gold Valve Settings

    You are right...rebuilding a shock is very simple if one is patient enough to follow the steps. If everone only knew that two snap rings hold the whole thing together, everyone would servence their own shock!
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