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Chuck.

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Chuck. last won the day on November 23 2010

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About Chuck.

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    Washington
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    DIY guy w/ a plated Honda CRF250X and a Honda-Montesa 315R.

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  1. 1. White smoke is coolant in the combustion chamber. Usually head gasket or cracked head. 2. Black film in the coolant reservoir is engine oil getting into the coolant. Usually requires combustion pressure to push oil into coolant. 3. Milky oil is coolant mixed in the oil. Could be leaky pump seal but most likely a head gasket. 4. Bubbling in radiator is from combustion gasses getting into coolant, the pressure will also cause coolant overflow. Almost always a head gasket. 3 out of 4 indicate a head gasket. Perhaps you should take it to a dealer for professional advice.
  2. If you want bearings you will need to use the later linkage, but the later linkage is cast iron and heavier.
  3. You can also back bleed by prying the brake pads apart. I remove the caliper and orient it so the banjo fitting is up and then pry the pads apart. Then operate the MC to move the pads back. Place an old pad between the pads and pump the lever and check for firmness.
  4. Right on. Not like a 2T, the X has an over head cam and timing chain. I strongly suggest a Honda shop manual and a torque wrench. Also should closely inspect the head and cylinder interface for erosion that could prevent the new head gasket from sealing. Problem could also be a cracked head. Use a Honda gasket.
  5. Buchanan are the xperts on rim/hub combinations but they do need complete info. I've had them lace up oddball hub rim combos and they did they correctly.
  6. Black/Red is power from exciter windings to the CDI module Pink and yellow are for the lights. You must have a 90+ stator. Here is a 90+ wiring diagram. As I wrote in a previous post you should use a wiring harness that matches the engine, that makes everything plug n play. Honda has changed wiring connectors over the years but any 86+ XR200 CDI module will work with a 90+ wiring harness and a 86+ CDI sensor. THE CDI module will have "KT0" on the side of the connector.
  7. And you would post that in a Honda forum?
  8. Hondas don't need tool kits.
  9. 12 volts is the nominal voltage. DC systems usually charge at 14+ volts. AC voltage is measured as RMS which indicates equivalent power to DC voltage, so the AC peaks will be above 16 volts. I have not measured the AC on my X but the AC is connected to the rectifier/regulator.
  10. Stock ignition is adequate and has an advance curve that will not damage the engine. The guy is in CO so rides high altitude and more advance can help there. The XRs are air cooled and in some trail conditions can run very hot which can lead to detonation. I have a XR with 11:1 CR and I had to slow the advance to reduce ping events. And per Powroll instructions run a bit less total to avoid high rpm detonation, which you can't hear at high rpm WOT. So engine life is an issue and the only test for HP differences are dyno runs.
  11. Honda likes to use AC for headlights on the smaller bikes like the XR and XLs, but the alternators may also include a battery charging circuit on bikes like the XLs or bikes with estart. The Xs have both AC and DC, and both circuits are regulated. The X's light circuit does power the stock 35watt headlight, and also the PIAA Halogen bulb that I installed on my X. (Halogen bulbs are much brighter than a standard bulb.) If you want to convert the lighting circuit to DC you will need a rectifier/regulator, Honda uses a variety of those on other models, for my latest project I'm using a TRX250 reg/reg (connectors are available to splice it into your system). The same style reg/rect is also used on other Honda models including estart lawn mowers. You also need to connect the system to a capacitor or battery to filter out high voltage spikes, you can use the battery or a 10,000mfd 50 volt capacitor. If I converted my X to DC I would connect the light circuit to the battery. Last summer I did a street legal conversion on a XR200R using a TLR200 alternator and used a 10,000mfd capacitor as a battery substitute, works great.
  12. Honing of Nikasil bores is to clean the crosshatch not to make new cross hatch, so use a soft hone. My local Honda dealer uses a hone to clean Nikasil bores because it is fast and works, with the Service Managers approval I use Scotchbrite and elbow grease.
  13. Two solutions; connect the rectified/regulated lighting circuit to the battery, or add capacitance as a battery substitute. I've found you only need about a 10,000mfd 50volt capacitor. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PC-10-000uf-10000uf-10000mfd-50V-Electrolytic-Capacitor-105-degrees/280809411888?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44039%26meid%3Df1a55ee2fd694abfa40eb3775d25e103%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D282882945967%26itm%3D280809411888&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850
  14. The only parts of the engine number and VIN that would match is the Model Code, "ME11" for the 250X. Should be first four of the engine number and position 4-7 of the VIN.