Chuck.

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Chuck. last won the day on November 23 2010

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About Chuck.

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    Washington
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    DIY guy w/ a plated Honda CRF250X and a Honda-Montesa 315R.

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  1. My bad, when I wrote the post I was thinking 81-83 XR200R , not the 185/200 engine. I edited the first part of the post to match the XR185/200 wire colors but failed to remove the last sentence. Because of your quick replay I was able to edit out the last sentence. 81-83 XR200Rs use a blue wire from the alternator for the lights, the 79-80 XR185/200 use a yellow/white wire.
  2. Black/red goes to the CDI module, so the brown wire from the reg goes to frame ground. The yellow from the reg will be spiced into the AC wiring. e.g. the yellow/white stator wire before the headlight dimmer switch. But I'm confused by the wire colors; the 80 XR200 should have a blue/yellow wire from the alternator.
  3. With either kick or estart if the rider has stalling issues just turn up the idle speed a bit. I even do that on my XR to reduce engine braking and to help reduce the risk of stalling during slow technical stuff. Stock XR idle is 1400rpm but i turn it up to 1500, or sometimes 1700rpm.
  4. 3 Honda shocks: Top is 86-95 XR250R (short hose, KYB 40) Next is 96-04 XR250R (integral reservoir KYB 44) Bottom is 85-85 XR200R/250R, 86-91 XR200R (long hose, missing bump stop, KYB 40) You can see the difference in piston rods and body size between the remote and integral reservoirs. I'm using a revalved 96-04 XR250R on my XR200R and find it better than the other two shocks, but it is a next gen shock. OEM fluid on the remote reservoir shocks had a bad rep and I always found they worked better with a fluid change. I would avoid any remote reservoir shock if it doesn't have compression and rebound clickers (early ones didn't).
  5. Interesting interactions between suspension geometry, weight, and engine torque. A lot of the 70-80s, and newer, dirt bikes have lazy steering rake, and some XRs have steep steering rake. I've owned a bunch of them and ridden a few others and you can predict pretty close how they will handle based on specs so I'm not surprised by the results. Having owned XR250R I can appreciate the extra torque available from a 280 kit. The 84-85 XR200R/250R had a short wheelbase and steep steering rake compared to previous bikes and it was a game changer for tight technical woods riding. I remember my first rides on them and you just steered them thru the woods while the high rake bikes required more effort to get thru the woods. I hated it when they passed me on my RM near the end of an Enduro when I was tired from man handling the RM. I bought a 87 XR250R and back to back comparisons with my RM indicated that the RM was faster in the rough but more tiring for a long ride in tight woods. That original 84-85 chassis became the 86-02 XR200R but with the 20lbs lighter 2 valve XR200 motor, and that has become my bike of choice for tight woods ST because of the chassis geometry. My Powroll 218 engine has more torque than a late XR250R and is 30-40lbs lighter which is why it is my bike of choice for tight woods. My CRF250X has a longer wheel base, more steering rake, and 30lbs more weight than my XR218, and it is all noticeable when riding. I know the mfg target rider groups, and maybe the PNW tight woods are not a big market, but we can still pick/chose and modify to suit our specific terrain. The best examples are in the CRF150/230 forum.
  6. Steahly sells a lot of flywheels so there is a market. It really depends on the terrain you ride, how you ride, and your expectations. I have 3 very different bikes and each seems better suited to certain types of trails. I consider my X the best bike but it is my least favorite for tight technical trails because of its weight and long wheelbase, but it is plated for connecting trails on National Forest Service roads, and I've gotten the engine tuned so it it is easier to ride on tight technical; so it is probably the most versatile. I recommend the flywheel, and other mods, to help soften bottom end throttle response, reduce flameouts, and improve bottom end power delivery. MX flywheel weight is OK for high engine speeds used in competition but not for some of the lower engine speeds encountered during trail riding. I did the mods because I get bored riding fast open trails and I seek trails less ridden that are easier with a different engine tune. I'm not timid but over the years I've have had enough fails to be able to visibly ID things I can't successfully ride.
  7. I would not recommend a Trials tire for MX because they do not work well on soft loamy surfaces and their transition from grip to slide is more sudden than a knobby. For trail ridding there is some rider adjustment needed but the increase in traction have earned them the rep as "cheater" tire for Enduro competition. They are my fav trail riding tire and they last several seasons. I run 4.00R18 and 120/100R18 on the rear and 2.75x21 on the front. Dunlop and Michelin are the brands, but the Dunlops are the cheapest and Rocky Mountain carries them. Downside is they have shorter knobsand less void space than a knobby so they don't dig into soft soils , they have less void space for loose material, and many more biting edges. The result is don't lock the rear brake on a lose soil downhill because the tire will turn into a ski. A few of those experiences and you will learn better rear brake control and to use more front brake. The rear tires have a bit less side curve than a knobby so are more difficult to control leaning power and for brake slides. But I've observed power and brake slides on smooth indoor concrete by Trials riders, so it can be done. For trail riding I don't spin the rear tire and I always have traction to climb over any obstacle, and climb any hill. The rear tire self cleans if pressure is below 4psi and I can climb wet clay hills that are un-climbable with a knobby. The rear tires are radial ply which provides another traction advantage over bias ply tires. Video of a radial ply Trials tire eating golf balls. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UythUroeHbQ Tony Bou riding a Honda-Montesa 250 4t. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBc6v9zUqTs
  8. Inside the right spar near the carb is the TPS connector, just disconnect it and the ECU won't add in extra spark lead at part throttle. That decreases engine part throttle efficiency and results in softer throttle response. That and the heaviest Steahly flywheel will really help. Some other things that help: All of the FCR checks and mods, gotta make sure the AP is working correctly. Pink wire does nothing at trail riding speeds so leave it alone. I have JD jetting and an exhaust mod provided the final step. 08 and newer Xs don't have a removable muffler insert so you can try the Ramz mod of drilling a hole in the end of the insert. I replaced my insert with an aluminum "power ring" that changed bottom end power delivery. Not bragging but the sum of all of the above transformed my X engine into a very tractable and easier to ride on tight technical trails. My benchmark are XR250Rs and Powroll XR218s. The XR250r's are about 20-25lbs heavier than a X, and the XR218s about 35lbs lighter, which explains why the 218s with torque like a XR250R feel so good on tight trails.
  9. The rear light is LED and powered by the battery, headlight is AC and powered directly by the alternator. A relay controls power to the rear light and the ECU controls the ground wire to operate the relay so it only lights when the engine is running. Usual problem is wiring or the relay, seldom the ecu. Your Owner's Manual has a wiring diagram.
  10. Motion Pro also sells OEM style cables for dirt bike and their low friction Slide Light cables. For years a local shop stocked MP cables so I could buy cables with a single trip as opposed to two trips to the local Honda dealer.
  11. If the cam chain jumps the valves could hit the piston and will be bent. $$$ Get your mechanic friend to do a cam timing check, and ignition timing check.
  12. https://www.trailtech.net/media/wysiwyg/pdf/010-ELV-106.pdf Two leads connect to the two alternator wires. If only one alternator wire the brown goes to the bike frame ground.
  13. IMO DID VT2 chain is the best you can buy but do internet research to find the cheapest price. They last so long that they are cheaper than any other chain, on my XRs I run years with the snail adjusters in the same position. I'm running 13/52 I pressure wash the bike and then spray a dry film lube on the chain, that way there is no oil film to attract dirt and wear the sprockets. And I get several years of life from the sprockets and many years from the VT2 chains. The VT2 usually ship with a rivet master link, but I prefer clip master links because I've needed to spilit chains a few times on the trail. The VT2 is avail with a clip link or you can buy a separate clip link. I also pack a spare and use a MP mini chain press.
  14. TrailTech sells an 12 volt AC regulator and some Honda AC reg that you may find on ebay: AC Regulator (4 wire) 31410-KZ1-670 used on: 90-04 XR250R (4 wire w/ bullet connectors) 31410-KZ1-670 96-04 XR400R (similar has a connector) 91 300X ebay SH557D-12 shows a two wire device. AC Reg (2 wire) 31410-KT0-770, repl 31400-MN1-640 87-88 XR200R 88-90 XR600) AC Reg 31400-MN1-680 used on other XR600/650) 90-02 XR200R AC Reg 31410-KT0-840, but not shown on wiring schematic. AC Regulator 31410-HA5-67, (2 wires) used on: 86-87 TLR200 85-86 ATC350X 84-86 XL250R 84-85 XL350R 83-87 XL600R The 4 wire reg are for floating ground alternators but so are the regulator/rectifiers for DC systems so only use a 4 wire unit from the above list. Honda wire colors are: Green is always ground Red is always unswitched pos from battery yellow are AC from alternator (so is pink) Yellow/white is AC out on late internally grounded alternators Blue is AC out on early internally grounded alternators Black is switched DC hot. White/Yellow is regulated AC.
  15. Early XRs were 6 volt and did not have a regulator, they depended on the electrical load from the headlight and tail light to keep the voltage low enough not to blow light bulbs. Common failure was for the tail light to fail from voltage, or vibration, and then the voltage would rise and blow the headlight. The other problem is the 6 volt bulbs are difficult to find and expensive, two fixes: Just switching to 12 volt bulbs helps and is cheaper, and provides a little more voltage tolerance, but the headlight must be at least 25watts, and 35watts is better. Best fix is adding a 12 volt AC regulator and 12 volt bulbs. Later XRs and TLR had 12 volt AC regulators that are easy install, also some aftermarket units.