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About mlglemon

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  1. Nice work. I should not have read your article on with a disassembled engine on the bench! With a BB, 39MX, MRD, E cams already in the bike, it would probably take less than a grand in net cost difference to get it to your spec. Arghhh.
  2. Thanks, Noble. I pored over the lubrication system chart while following the oil passageways and I can see where the clutch cover feeds the right end of the crankshaft. This does give me some peace of mind.
  3. Guess it isn't too bad. Hard to stomach since I'd planned on selling soon but I'd rather do it right than leave the new owner with a time bomb.
  4. Quick engine specs - DRZ400E base engine w/440 CW kit, FCR39 & MRD pipe in an '06 SM. I had just finished a head gasket replacement after putting dozens of hours on the bike after purchase with no issues other than the head gasket. The issue causing the head gasket was resolved (hopefully). About an hour into riding, the transmission went boom but the engine was still running, shut it down right after. It was not ran again. A year later, I split the cases to find this (see pics). I know I should probably do the right thing and replace all bearings/main/crankshaft because of the metal debris I found, but in cases like these, is there any amount of inspection or cleaning that would validate the crankshaft, at the very least? A few of the bearings are very obvious replacements, but the mains look and feel okay, as does the crankshaft. I can have it inspected very strenuously by my QC department at work. If not, I can source a Hot Rods crank & main bearings for around $250 and find the rest at a bearing house. I don't like to pay twice but I also don't want to be overly careful. Is it the previous damage caused by floating debris that requires bearing replacement or the possibility that debris remains and would cause future damage? Or....a little column A, little column B? Thanks in advance for any guidance. I think I already know the answer... :'(
  5. I will likely put them on, I don't need the cash and might as well use them while I have the bike. However - I am considering putting the ol' DRZ on the chopping block in order to focus on some different pursuits, so I want to make sure I'm not stiffing the new owner by not including them. I haven't had it long enough to know whether it is prone to overheating in the tighter single track stuff, as I've only ever used it on the road. If it helps significantly off road, I will probably put them on and adjust the asking price accordingly. Then maybe sell the stock ones separately. Undecided. Thanks guys!
  6. Long story short, I have a spare set of Fluidyne radiators laying around for the DRZ. With a 440, FCR, MRD, and E cams combo, are these worth installing or should be fine to use the stockers, and sell the Fluidynes?
  7. The head gasket popped after a 30 min highway run. I have a few theories as to why it happened, but I'd like to eliminate options if I can.
  8. In order to assure myself that my cooling system is A-OK, I'd like to pop the valve cover off and check the Welch plugs. I have a pressure tester already. Is it worth making an adaptor and using that, or would it be easier to buy a separate tester or borrow one from the auto parts store? Am I correct in thinking that this test would not work with a thermostat in place? Or wait a minute, am I thinking of the flow as backwards of what it is... Thanks!
  9. Ooh, now I'm thinkin'...
  10. If it was the welch plug, I'd be hard pressed to blame the mechanic for that one. However - someone more familiar with that failure mode (like a few on this board) will probably know whether that's something the mechanic should have tested for. In any case, it wouldn't hurt to ask (tactfully).
  11. You're right, I should not assume that. Although I have not seen different jetting recommendations for the '03-'05 vs the '07+, except to change to the 1st gen needle in the case of the newer bikes... seeing as I'm the one asking for help, I'm really in no position to be stating anything
  12. Great. Sounds like I can get away with using the stock '03-'05 needle, or shimming the one I have. If they are the same needle with different grooves, I may try that first. Depends on how much tweaking I feel like doing (needles are more of a pain than jets. Running a 102 main right now with no airbox/exhaust modifications and I feel like it's too rich. The 110 should be perfect with those mods. Thank you so much for finding that info for me - I've been Googling for days and never saw it! I should think they'd be the same except for the needle.
  13. Was that with the KPT needle, 4th clip from blunt?
  14. I was under the impression that for sea level, the following was appropriate: 42 pilot 115 main Exhaust baffle removed Airbox snorkel removed High flow air filter(?) Oklahoma gets pretty hot during the summer, so I might dial it back to 112 or 110 if it needs it.
  15. The 230F power up needle is the KPS, I thought. That's good to hear. Unusual that I would not be able to find it online SOMEWHERE. I'll give them a ring, thanks!