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mcarp

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About mcarp

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    Ohio
  1. mcarp

    OT: Air bag helper springs for the truck

    I had the same problem with my '02 Pathfinder and moto jack rack. Soft springs for sure. It uses IFS coil springs, so I installed Air-Lift airbags with onboard compressor. Works wonders, highly recommend it!! I believe the tacoma has traditional leaf spring suspension, so the airbags will not work. I agree about the air shock comment. Shocks are designed to damper movement, not support the load (that's what springs are for). With that said, airshocks will lift your truck and probably support a dirt bike, but you would risk damage and possible mount failure over rough pavement or off-road. Definitely
  2. mcarp

    YZ 426 vs XR 650

    I somehow get the impression you aren't too experienced on a dirtbike if you have to ask this question.The XR is a desert bike, the YZ an MX bike. I'm probably wrong, but if not...don't even think about these two if you are a new dirt rider! They are both extremely fast machines for experiences riders only. If you are a street rider and think you can handle them in the dirt, think again my friend. They are beasts. I'm not an expert on Georgia riding, but from what I've seen of the state and neighboring areas, the woods are dense, the hills are steep, and conditions seem to be red clay (ie very slick) and sand. Neither of these bikes are optimal for these types of east coast trail conditions. Especially the XR. Please tell us more about yourself (age, riding experience, weight/height, strenght level) and where exactly you plan on riding to help us recommend something for you. All-around means different things to different people...are you trail riding, dual sporting, motocrossing, or just screwing around on some private property? Just because they happened to be for sale in your area in a price range you are comfortable with does not make them the only choices. By the way, welcome to the forum!
  3. mcarp

    Break-in period

    Agreed-You're ready to run it hard after an oil change. If I may suggest something...change the oil, start it up let it run for 5 mins with a mixture of idle and bringing the engine to around 1/3 max RPMs, then change the oil again. This should remove the vast majority of break-in particles. For reference, I only have about 1.9 hours on my new YZF. Changed the oil after the first engine run of 10 minutes, then again at .8 hours, then again at 1.9. Nothing quite like fresh oil to properly break in the bike and prolong the life of the machine. At the .8 hour oil change, I then ran it hard, but didn't run super RPM's. Maybe 10K at most. I really did feel an increase in power after that point. Coming off a 250 2-stroke (and before that a WR400), any increase in power was easily felt. good luck, and excellent choice in a bike!!
  4. mcarp

    2005 WR Spuddering at full throttle

    Have you rejetted to YZ specs? Do this and the BK mod. WR jetting is pretty wacky on a YZ setup.
  5. mcarp

    Electric handwarmers ? How to wire...

    You can do that. You need to make sure it's a completely exposed (no paint) frame connection. Do not attach it to the front end (in front of the steering head). Dielectric grease at the contact point will keep the area from rusting. I also would not put it on the mounting point of the regulator, but I really am not sure if it would cause a problem or not. Run the fuse between the always hot headlight lead and the grip switch. DO NOT FORGET about the fuse! When I had my WR (no batt) and grips, I spliced into the output wiring as it came out of the stator and ran my own 16 guage lead to the relay. This avoids overloading the 18guage light circuit with both lights and grips on.
  6. mcarp

    Electric handwarmers ? How to wire...

    Wrooster-same thing for horns. Run a relay. I promise you the horns will be louder and you won't get that "farting" sound with the lights on. Then again, if you just need the horn to pass state's inspection requirements and hardly ever ride in traffic, then don't worry about it. Check out the magnum blasters made by Carrand if you want a *LOUD* horn.
  7. mcarp

    Electric handwarmers ? How to wire...

    To do this right, you need a relay, fuse kit, a waterproof (marine) switch, and heat shrink tubing. Not to mention wire connectors, and electrical tape. If you use the high and low switch, run both input leads from the switch to the same relay point, Run a lead from the battery + into the 12V source on the relay(mount under the tank or behind light/number plate). Run a wire from the Switch to relay switch feed. 12V Output lead from relay to grips. Ground from switch, relay, and grips to battery negative. You can aggregate all the ground wires into one under the tank or behind the light, then run one ground wire to the battery. The relay (20amp is fine, most common are 30 amp which is also fine) package should have a small diagram of the wiring. I would not run it off the headlight lead unless you didn't have a battery. The reason is the wiring is a bit small (18guage). It will work, but the heat output will be less do to lost power from wire resistance. Use heatshrink tubing on the wires to avoid chafing. Trust me, they will chafe through the wire insulation in no time from vibration (plus it looks much cleaner). Also use 14 or 16 guage wiring on everything, however the switch to relay wire can be 18 or 20 guage. This will be more efficient and create less power loss due to resistance. The relay should be around $6, fuse kit around $3, heat shrink in stores is a ripoff and the tube lenghts are normally only a few inches, I got a huge kit (enough for dozens of projects) from JC Whitney for $20. Wiring varies...probably around $10 for 25 feet of wiring with 2 colors. I like to use red for positive and black or green for ground as it makes it easier to identify later if something goes wrong. On my street bike, I have a ton of things wires --grips, heated clothing, 12 outlets (switched by switch, switched by ignition, or switched with a thermostat), radar, HID lights, volt meter, etc)...using the "right" colored wire proves useful otherwise if you have a ton of the same colored wire and it's a bitch to trace them. Maybe not so important for just grips, but the more electrical work you do, the happier you'll be if the job is done right. My '00WR400 didn't have enough juice to run lights and grips at the same time. They both worked, but the lights were dimmer which tells me the stator didn't have enough output to do the job. Overloading it will fry it much quicker. If you're lights turn dimmer with grips on, don't run them both. I know this is more complicated and more expense than just slapping on the kit, but you'll be glad in the end that it's done professionally and clean. Good luck! Did you get the dual stars?
  8. mcarp

    KLR Suspension questions....

    When I had my KLR250, I corresponded with a few other owners and one in NYC reported the same problem with the Cobra. I don't believe it's designed well at all. I used the stock header w/ WB supertrapp exhaust...no rubbing. And I was running wide tires of different makes/types (I had a couple of rear wheel assemblies that I would swap for street or off-road). As far as flexing, yes the rear suspension is soft. It's not made for serious trail riding/jumping at all. You can jack the compression up, but compression isn't adjustable. My advice is either to ditch the P.O.S. Cobra, or if you are outgrowing the bike...ditch it and get another bike If that's not an option, I belive Works Shocks make a unit for the KLR. I started to look at them, but realized for the cost, I could have a WR with way better EVERYTHING. Motor, suspension, frame, etc, etc.
  9. "he wanted me to cash a check for more than the money i wanted for the motor and send him the balance." dead giveaway. Definitely a scam. Be careful out there, folks! Only accept cash for bikes. Checks can be faked to look extremely valid.
  10. mcarp

    who has the best stock suspension

    I seem to recall reading that the factory teams are using forks that cost about $6K and requires rebuilds after every race day. A friend and I were at the Indy SX races last year, and the guy next to my wife started spouting about how great Kawasaki was and how he got a "factory bike' from his dealer for $5K. Of course we questioned it, only to find out it was a stock bike with works connection parts (nothing special). It was used, too! Duh! Didn't have a clue as to the fact that Jeff Emig's shock probably costs more than his bike total . Stupid 16 year olds...
  11. mcarp

    Street Bike ?

    Depends on what you want. If you want a cruiser..check out the Honda VTX or Yamaha Roadstar. Performance is awful (they may go fast, but they can't turn or stop). I do not recommend these types of bikes if you have a wild hair in you (which I assume you do as a WR owner). Sportbikes-GSXR, R1/R6, 'or CBR929/954/1000. Blazingly fast backroad burners. Not comfortable unless you're short. Be very careful, these are pushing upwards of 155hp with low weight (ie experienced riders only). I would stay away from these as a first street bike. Sport touring-FJR1300 is the shitz (see my sig). Fast, comfortable, great protection from the elements, handles decenetly well. However sport touring bikes are the "every day riders bikes". That is to say they are just as suited to commuting to work as they are embarassing sport bikes (with lesser riders) and traveling across the continent. ST1300's are nice, perhaps a little heavy and touring oriented for Sunday only. Actually, all the sport touring bikes are designed for a lot of use. Touring-BMW LT or Goldwing- Probably not a fit. Suited for daily use, long trips, or just when want a couch on two wheels The "standard" bikes are the in between-ers. Meaning a long trip would be tiresome, but day rides are comfy with enough sporting prowess to have tons of fun. Honda nighthawk, SV650, Honda Hornet, Yamaha FZ6/FZ1. Honda VFR is a an excellent choice. If you've never ridden a street bike, DO NOT GET A 1,000+CC MACHINE!!! Can't stress this enough. They are seriously fast. I'm talking will smoke anything on the road fast. Heck my "sports tourer" will do 140 without so much as a complaint. And it's over 600lbs! I *really* liked my YZF600 for "all around" use. It's not as crazy fast a sport bike (but trust me, you'll still smoke almost all cars), easy to ride, handles great, low maintenance, inexpensive, and looks great (blue/white). I wish I never sold the bike--perfect for Sunday rides without a monday morning chiropractor appointment. Do check insurance rates before you buy one. My bike has sidebags, shaft drive, touring type accomodations, but it's rated as a sportsbike (145hp/99 ft.lbs torque). My last bike *was* a sportsbike, but rated as a standard. About 1/2 the insurance cost. I would check out the Yamaha FZ6, Honda VFR, Suzuki SV650, SV650S, Yamaha YZF600, and the Honda Hornet as a "first street bike with prior dirt experience" ride. Avoid Italian bikes (very quirky, expensive, high maintenance) unless you're in love with the design or just "have to have" one.
  12. mcarp

    Broke my ankle...... Real bad too

    Hope you recover fully from your injury. Keep at the therapy and you'll be back on two wheels
  13. mcarp

    Metal in oil filter

    Agreed, a gram of metal does sound like a lot! As Sunruh mentioned, do keep an eye on this. I would also agree the clutch basket would be the first thing to check.
  14. mcarp

    powerband issues on 250f

    Mitch- It's all relative. Compared to a 250 2 stroke or 4xx 4 stroke, these little 250's do feel weak when you're a full grown adult at 200+lbs. I could wheelie at 60mph in 4th gear on my WR400 (highly tuned). I can barely pop a grunt wheelie on the YZF in first. Sure some clutch and a tug on the bars it comes up without a problem, but relatively speaking, it's weaker than what I'm used to. BTW, I'm just in the next county over from you. Have some family in Utica area. However, what I'm hoping to gain from the 'lil 250 is easier handling, faster cornering, less energy used (which for me means I'll probably crash less and be able to walk the next day without feeling like I'm 80).
  15. WRracer- What the heck are you talking about??? I've been riding for more years than you've been alive..never <EVER> heard of bacteria on a bike, let alone causing air bubbles in the fuel line. Me thinks you are full of it. BTW, check your exhaust bearings I agree with what has been stated. NEVER start this bike without riding and warming it up!!! OK, you may have to do for oil changes or a maintenance check, but that's it. There is a detrimental effect to starting it when cold. Not only will the oil not be up to full pressure, but the oil film goes away after about 12 hours. Synthetic oil will help the oil stick, minimizing this effect. Also, acids are formed in the oil which obviously causes detruction to internal parts (bearings especially). When storing the bike for the winter, DO NOT START IT!!!!! Other bad habits that cause plug fouling: Rich pilot jet and letting it idle for a long time. Not turning off the fuel before transport (fuel splashes into the cylinder). Twisting the throttle without the engine running. And using the choke too long. For winter temps, you shouldn't need anymore than 20-30 seconds on choke, then if it still wants to stall, just turn the idle up temporarily while it warms up. Popping is because the pilot fuel screw needs to be turned out, or the pilot jet is too small. Normal behavior when you're engine runs great in the fall, but starts to pop/backfire in the winter. This is a race bike that requires tuning to match conditions, not like most "trail" bikes out there. BTW, oven cleaner will clean your spark plug to like new. No need to buy plugs if it's fouled. Good luck.
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