Bob Onit

I think you answered your own question. I adjust mine at the loose spec to avoid some of the issues you listed. I would imagine that your valves are a little tighter than you may think if it's suddenly really hard to start. Too tight and you can lose compression which will cause all kinds of problems. Did you adjust them with the engine cold?

Correct, auto decompressor came on the electric start models only. The Off Road models have a manual decompressor so it's .003 -.005 (inches) for the exhaust valves. I set mine on the loose end. (.005" )

.007 - .009 For Electric start .003 - .005. For Kick Start.

If your height is an issue Seat Concepts will tailor the seat foam to fit your inseam best as they can without effecting the comfort factor. Just give them a call and tell them what you need. Really nice seats for the money and more comfortable than the Corbin I had on my previous DR.

Check the valve lash. Valves that are set too tight will cause a loss of compression. If the valves are in spec then I would recommend a compression test. 1994-1999- Auto decompressor/Electric start models Intake: .002 - .004 (inches) Exhaust: .007 - .009 (inches) Take the reading at TDC on the compression stroke with the engine cold As for the idle issue, try the procedure listed in the above link. If it still hangs, disassemble the carb and clean it thoroughly. Every passage must be clear. Replace any O rings that are questionable and check/set the float height to 14mm.

Good Job!

There are two TDC's on a 4 stroke. You need to have the piston at TDC on the compression stroke when you adjust the valve lash. Sounds like your valves were adjusted at 180* off, or the decomp linkage needs adjustment. If your decomp lever is not working properly it's usually because the valves are mis-adjusted. If the valves are mis-adjusted, the bike wont run right, or at all.

May be a long shot but I've seen wires under the seat in bad condition short out when the riders weight is applied. Replace the fuse and try riding it standing up and see what happens. It's happened to me twice personally.

The wheel in the diagram is a cush drive. Did you buy a cush drive wheel or is it a solid hub? If its a cush you may want to replace the cushion blocks while you're at it Just want to make sure you buy the right parts

I'm pretty sure the dirt model takes an NGK D8EA which is 18mm The S models take an NGK DPR9EA-9 which is 18mm I'm not sure what plug the '99 SE takes

Does your decompression lever stay in on it's own when you pull the lever in and take your hand off of it, no kicking ?

What does the spark plug look like? Is it wet? Since you have a TM33 Pumper carb you can prime the combustion chamber by twisting the throttle a few times before you kick it over. Which petcock do you have? Have you verified that the float bowl is filling up with fuel? Open the petcock and then open the little drain screw on the bowl and watch for a steady stream of fuel coming from the thin drain hose. Other than that it could possibly be a spark, valve lash or timing issue. Does your decompression lever stay in on it's own after you squeeze it?

I have no idea who has them the cheapest online but you may want to check your local power equipment/chain saw shops. Should be 18mm By the time you pay shipping you're probably better off buying it local.

Here are the physical dimensions for the TM33SS. Save it to your desktop and zoom in on it so you can read it. I don't know how long the link will work for as it's from an auction.

Yup, looks just like the one I have. I could never understand wiring the grips to the tube when starting fluid works so much better, both for installing and removing aftermarket grips. Good luck with the Fuel Injection. Looks like quite a project.