Jump to content

StreetbikePimp

Members
  • Content Count

    438
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About StreetbikePimp

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Wisconsin
  1. StreetbikePimp

    best looking BWM G450X ...... Post your pics

    Yes a spinning wheel is going to clock up extra miles. However, it would need to make 5280 extra spins before it clocked up 1 extra mile. (this is assuming that the circumference of the circle is exactly 12 inches)
  2. StreetbikePimp

    For those with a WR450 & a YZF 450

    If you want to do racing, I'd go with the YZ all day.
  3. StreetbikePimp

    wr450 wont start now... ***???

    I'm assuming that your motor is turning over, it's just not firing. You're bike needs 4 things to start. 1) spark. Pull the plug, and kick the bike over. Make sure the plub is sparking. 2) Fuel. Make sure there is fuel in your float bowl. 3) Air. Clean the air filter. 4) Compression. Are the valves too tight and staying open, check the specs. Are the rings worn? If the valve specs are good, do a compression test. If it's less then 100 psi, then it might be time to replace the piston and rings.
  4. Hello All, I own a 2003 WR450 that I have “YZed” for racing Harescrambles. The issue that I have and the issue that I’m trying to find an answer to is…”Why do I keep frying ignition coils?” What I mean by fried is the bike will stall if the RPMs drop below 2800, and I know it’s the ignition coil because as soon as I replace it with a new coil, I can dial my rpms to as low as 1500, and the bike will “putt-putt” like a tractor all day long. (in neutral of course) I am currently on my 4th ignition coil is 6 years. Here’s the back story: I chose a WR to race instead of a YZ because I wanted the softer suspension, the 5-speed tranny, and the ELECTRIC START. As time went on, I became frustrated with the electric start because it was unreliable. I don’t know if it was because I rarely saw 3rd gear during a race, or I stalled too much, or some other reason, but 9 times out of 10 it was faster to kick start the bike, then it was to hold the button and listen to the motor crank, and crank, and crank (with your fingers crossed) and wait for the bike to start as people pass you. Eventually I gave up and just reverted to kicking it all the time. Since I was committed to kick-starting the bike, I removed the battery and the starter, to save weight. I have also removed the headlight and taillight as well, and per ncmountainman’s posts, the negative cable is grounded to the regulator/rectifier. The other modification that you should be aware of is that I have an EZ-start Rekluse clutch without the clutch perch adjuster. So this means there isn’t a clutch handle for me to pull in if I think the bike is going to stall. So this is where my problem stems from. With the EZ-start clutch, it is important that your idle is set between 1800 and 2000 rpms. If it’s any higher than that, your bike will try to move while it is in first gear, or stall if it’s under load. So then, when my coil goes “bad”, the bike stalls every time the rpms drop to idle speed. Granted, I could turn my idle up, and ride the brake, but at 2800 rpms, my bike is in constant motion, and becomes hard to control. So this is my question: It seems like if I put the battery back in, this will solve my problem, but I really, really don’t want to. It is 6 pounds of weight sitting high up on the bike, and YES, you can feel the difference when you race a harescramble, and you’re flicking the bike from side-to-side about 300+ times during that race. Furthermore, forum research suggests that the bike should be able to run just fine without the battery. So, am I missing something? I’m not an electrician, so I need some expert advice. Will I keep frying coils if I don’t put the battery back it? Is there something else cause the coils to go bad? No headlight perhaps? I’ve wrestled with this problem for about 3 years now, and since I don’t have the funds to go by a YZ right now, any help you guys can give me would be appreciated.
  5. StreetbikePimp

    2003 manual??

    I would say Yes. 99% of the manual will be correct. The only difference that I can think of is that the left side of your engine case will be different because the 04 has a damper gear in there to fix woodriff key issue.
  6. Thanks for the feedback. I'll put the airbox back on (cross my fingers) and go for a ride.
  7. Hello All, I am looking for help with my street bike. I know this is a dirt bike forum, but this is the most technically experienced board that I know. I’ve tried to seek help from the local Honda dealer and other “bike boards”, but to no avail. 1)year/make/model My bike is a 1998 Honda Superhawk, also referred to as a VTR1000. 2)conditions (elevation,temp,humidity if extreme,type of riding Elevation is sea level, Current outside air temp is anywhere from single digits to 30 degrees. However, I’m working on my bike in my shed and have a torpedo heater running. Air temp in the shed would be about 55 to 60 degrees. 3)modifications (pipe,air box,motor) The only mod is a K&N air filter. The bike is sitting on the bench with the air box and gas take off. I have an IV line set up to supply fuel. 4)current jetting The jetting is stock with a 175 main and a 45 pilot. I don’t know the needle code. 5)running issue that is trying to be cured. (In a nutshell) the diaphragm slides will not open up when I rev the motor. What should I look for? Also, how do diaphragm slides work? Is there a vacuum line that I missed? History: Last summer, I discovered, that mice had decided to build a nest inside of my air box. I’m pretty sure that I ran the bike on various rides without knowing the nest was in there, and eventually sucked some dirt…pine needle…or some other foreign object into my carburetor. I pulled the carbs, and cleaned out the main jet, the pilot jet, and any other passages that I could find. (I did not remove the pilot screw or the diaphragm slides at this time) I cleaned out the air box, and cleaned the air filter. Put everything back together and went for a ride. The bike will idle, but it won’t accelerate. Instead it coughs, stumbles, backfires and eventually stalls. I pulled the carbs again and did a much more though all job of cleaning. I pulled every jet and the pilot screw. Sprayed cleaner in every passage way, followed by compressed air, and I removed the diaphragm slides and inspected the diaphragms for any cracks, tears, or holes. None found. I reinstalled everything and took extra caution to make sure the diaphragms were installed correctly. I used grease to seat the ring, and made sure nothing got pinched. On the bench, the bike will idle, but when I rev the motor up to 8000 rpms, the slides do not open up. It coughs, stumbles and backfires. If I manually move the slides with my finger, one of the slides opens and closes freely, the other one sticks a little bit before it closes all of the way. 6)does the running issue change?affected by motor temp?better or worse when hot?better or worse when cold? I have not noticed a difference so far, although, I have not done extensive testing yet. FYI, My Background I’m not an expert wrencher my any means, but I have had my carburetor off of my WR450 and DRZ400S at least a dozen times to clean and change the jetting and I haven’t ever run into issues there.
  8. StreetbikePimp

    Wont fire up!?

    From what you have wrote, I'm assuming that the bike starts fine if you kick it, but not when you use the e-button. Is this true? If so, You should contact the previous owner and ask them if they put a YZ cam into your WR or if it is set at YZ timing. When I put a YZ cam in my 03 WR450 my e-button became suddenly useless.
  9. StreetbikePimp

    I need HELP!!!

    3 things you need. Spark Fuel Compression Compression: Being a 426, I'm pretty sure you know if you have good compression or not. If you don't need to use your decompresion lever anymore, then that would be your problem. Could be either rings or valves. Spark: If you don't have spark, you may have a faulty Kill switch or a bad coil as already suggested. Fuel: Make sure gas is coming out of the petcock and then clean your carb real well.
  10. StreetbikePimp

    Main Jet/ Chain tensioner warning....

    The tip about NOT loosening the cam chain tensioner (for whatever reason) before setting the bike to TDC is a good one to know. A friend of mine ran into the skipped tooth problem as well. Thanks for sharing.
  11. StreetbikePimp

    Need a new impeller. Not happy with the OEM part.

    Thanks for the help Eddie.
  12. StreetbikePimp

    Need a new impeller. Not happy with the OEM part.

    No comment here. Start a "Walmart Sucks" thread in the Town Square, and I'll chime in there.
  13. StreetbikePimp

    Need a new impeller. Not happy with the OEM part.

    My 436 kit is a Wiesco 94mm piston and the cylinder was sent out to US Chrome in WI. The gaskets are Cometic. I had a friend who was the parts manager at the local Yamaha dealership and he always gave me great prices. (sadly he don't work there anymore. ) If memory serves me well, I paid less then 300 for piston, gaskets, and cylinder work. I did all the labor myself with the help of the TT boards. I've never paid attention to the coolant catch tank. I've always just topped off the radiator.
  14. StreetbikePimp

    Need a new impeller. Not happy with the OEM part.

    Damn this board's busy. 2 days since my last post, and my thread is on page 5.... Ordering up the OEM part and going with the cavitation issue. My gut's telling me this is from improper bleeding of the coolant. I'm not all ways good about bleeding the air screwing on top of the temp sensor housing. I will from now on! Leaking head gasket? If I do a compression test and don't have any coolant in my oil...I'm I good here, or do I have to take off the head?
  15. StreetbikePimp

    rebuild engine - no spark - HELP!

    Good thinking, but if it was the clutch or side stand switch, the bike wouldn't turn over.
×