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HairyScary

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  1. HairyScary

    Need XR600 resource

    Baja Designs has (had?) a blurb on rejetting the xr600 -- I believe they recommended up one or two on the pilot and main (62 ---> 65 or 68, and 152? to 155 or 158) when you popped out the snorkle from the airbox and the exhaust baffle. Your bike isn't new enough to have the additional insert/restrictor between the head and carb.
  2. HairyScary

    new xr400 factory motard

    To get back on topic a bit, I compared the gearing specs on the bike. Honda XR400R stock sprockets are usually: 15T front; 45T rear. To get the 2.466 ratio they have to use 15/37. I wondered if a 37 would fit on our hubs. I'm sure a 38 would, but dunno about any smaller. XR400R: primary = 2.826; Trans (1->5)= 2.615 1.842 1.400 1.120 0.926 400 SM: p = 2.666 ; (1->5) 2.615 1.789 1.350 1.076 0.892 So 1st is the same and then it is a wider ratio set after that. Heck, if the XR400R had that gearset in it, it would be a better dual sport bike. The primary of 2.666 (64/24) is an existing part -- they offered that crank gear and clutch basket as part of the original HRC XR400R kit introduced in 1996. The other gearsets must be as follows: XR400R XR400-supermoto 1 34/13 34/13 2 35/19 34/19 3 28/20 27/20 4 28/25 28/26 5 25/27 25/28 Also note the lower compression ratio. Probably just a different piston (as that would be the lowest cost option). Electric start means it probably shares cases and so on with the TRX400EX motor. Paul.
  3. HairyScary

    dual sport security..what do you do?

    Two wire ignition switches like that on the XR650L are of marginal value since any crackhead can defeat those by cutting or joining the wires. I was discussing this on another forum, and apparently the CRF230 switch has 4 wires which is more promising (you can open the power to the CDI and close the kill wires in the off position) which is more of a challenge for the lowlife. Haven't priced one out yet.
  4. HairyScary

    chain guide

    I had one of the white suckers break -- it failed around the threaded inserts that take the mounting bolts. This was on an earlier XR (1990 vintage) and I think they have updated the part to include some more webbing in that area (the part number doesn't end in 670, so it has been updated). I've had an XR of some sort or another with one of these since about 1989, so one failure in that period isn't bad.
  5. HairyScary

    Carburator removal xr 400 ???

    Other people (myself included) have removed the carb by taking the three bolts out that hold the intake manifold to the head and leaving the subframe in place -- the downside of doing it this way is that you have to be careful to ensure the o-ring in the manifold stays in the appropriate groove as you put it back together. So either way - whatever you find easier.
  6. HairyScary

    Changing sprockets?

    If you have your heart set on the 48 tooth then you can choose any stock replacement for an XR650R (since it is the same bolt pattern and ships with a 48).
  7. HairyScary

    XR400 gearing?

    I'd agree that a 16/40 is required if you want to carry any speed. It works well for dual sport applications to keep the buzz factor down. If you drop your rear wheel from an 18 to a 17" then you will loose some top end from that as well -- but I think you can get a 38 from AFAM or similar. Any smaller than that and I'm thinking you will start getting pretty close to the hub bolts. (The 40T is still big enough to have lightening holes stamped in it, so it is not like it looks like a micro-sprocket) http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/xr400/files/Gearing%20and%20Speed%20Calculator/ will let you compare the sprocket ratios for different bikes, different speeds/RPM combos, and all sprocket combinations (in all gears even). You might need to be a group member to access the group files.
  8. HairyScary

    XR400 chain tensioner

    That is one thing the service manual is missing -- a wear limit on the cam chain. YOu would think they could have come up with a measurement of the chain length, or even better -- a measurement of how far the tensioner had extended without even having to go in the motor!
  9. HairyScary

    Common Timing Chain Problems?

    If the chain was stretched to crap before it broke, then it may have filled the oil with aluminum shavings and all the bonuses that would bring. I saw a used-and-abused XR200 that had that happen -- it had fiberglass over the cylinder where the chain wore through (to keep the oil in I presume) and the oil in it looked like aluminum/silver paint!! Needless to say the rest of the bike was trashed too...
  10. HairyScary

    xr400 stator for baja designs kit?

    Don't be surprised if the 10 cell NiCd for the kit doesn't get charged properly with the stock stator. Unless you leave the headlight off most of the time. With 35W headlight, tail light (dual on some kits/conversions) and the losses in converting from AC to DC, there isn't much extra to charge the battery with -- the voltage will be down around the 11 or 12V. Note that a 10 cell NiCd won't charge at 12V, it needs to be at the 14.5V (or so) regulator setting to take a charge, which won't happen unless you reduce your loading (ie headlight off) or increase your power input (ie better stator).
  11. HairyScary

    XR400 Dual Sport questions

    There wasn't really any mega tools involved. I think I just traced out roughly what I wanted on a scrap of 1/8" plate based on the original and then used a hacksaw to cut away all the excess. A sabre saw with a steel cutting blade would have also worked, but I was in no hurry and just kept nipping off small bits until I got the basic shape to where I could use a coarse file and match it to my pattern and to fit the shape against the stator cover. Obviously a bench vice makes cutting and filing easier. I think there was a collar/spacer welded to the OEM part and I also used a bit of thick wall steel tubing to make one for my part, and tack welded it on but you could easily just use a stack of washers to get the right height (it wouldn't look as factory or be as convenient during install/removal, but hey...) Once I had the shape and fit, I used a fine file to detail off all the edges and a bit of black paint and you'd swear it was from Honda. As for the pants saver, if I recall correctly, it fit between the stator cover and the OEM derailment piece. To get maximum strength of my new derailment piece I made it as thick there as possible which meant it essentially touches the stator cover/engine case. I think I could have just trimmed off the offending edge on the pants saver and put it back on, but I really didn't care for it anyway.
  12. HairyScary

    650r Headlight Bulb Options????

    A friend of mine has a bad habit of riding too close, which doesn't work well with the glass lens, as you can imagine. (Score 1 for the XR650, zero for the XR400 and the glass lens...) So, I came up with a fairly easy way to fit an H3 55W halogen bulb into the stock plastic lens that comes with the non-halogen 35W bulb. I say fairly easy, since it doesn't require any additional parts other than the bulb itself. The 55W should not melt or discolour the plastic lens, as I've seen some low budget car driving lights that come with H3 55W in a plastic lens. If you really care about lighting, you would run the Honda glass lens or replace the whole headlight assembly (and optionally rewind the stator), but for some people who like riding real close to others, the plastic lens might be preferred. NOTE: Do not touch Halogen bulb glass with your bare hands - contaminants will react with the glass at high heat and bulb life will be shortened. If you do accidentally touch it, clean the glass with alcohol. 1) Order a H3 55W bulb. The Honda bulb (p/n 34908-SA0-811) is made by Stanley and comes with a european sized male bullet connector versus the spade connector found on most automotive H3. It also lends itself to the slight modification (see #8 below) quite well, and has nice thick insulation. But buying the bulb from somewhere other than Honda might save you some $. 2) Remove headlight straps, and unplug headlight from bike. 3) Remove rubber socket boot, socket and then bulb from headlight. 4) If the black outer sleeve has been heat-bonded to the socket wires, then carefully cut it free of the wires, preserving as much of the length of the black sleeve as possible, and not damaging the wire insulation inside. 5) Push the bakelite disk down on one side into the socket spring so that it can pop out of the socket when you release it. 6) Cut the wire (typically blue) just below the bakelite disk and feed the wire out of the rubber boot. Set the wire and disk aside - you won't need these unless you want to convert back to 35W (not likely). 7) Ensure the ground wire (usually green) is fed through the hole or feedthrough in the boot that is closest to the front of the bike. It is usually fed through the rearward one. (Leaving the rearward one for the bulb wire gives it slightly more room to curve around.) 8) You need to slightly modify the H3 bulb so that the wire comes straight out the bottom of the bulb and not out at 90 degrees to the bottom. On the Honda bulb, this is easily done by snipping one tiny web of metal near the strain relief. You can then bend the part of the strain relief that is crimped around the wires up 90 degrees. 8) Stretch the factory socket spring by about 1/2" (13mm) while trying to keep the end coils intact and square with each other. 9) With the bulb wire coming out the bottom of the bulb, you should be able to fit the spring over the bulb wire and over the rectangular metal part of the bottom of the bulb. 10) Fit the metal hat shaped remaining part of the socket over the bulb wire and over the spring. 11) Feed the bulb wire through the rearward hole in the socket boot. 12) Place the bulb in the headlight, with the round notch in the bulb ring facing up. You will note that the H3 ring is slightly smaller than the original bulb ring, and it might not want to sit flat and centred on its own. Fortunately, the fit of the spring around the rear of the bulb is very snug and the spring in the metal socket hat will keep the bulb centred once the hat is locked into the headlight. Since there is nothing to index the bulb and keep the round notch at the top (i.e. bulb filament flat with the ground) you may have to take a few tries to get the metal socket hat in and have the bulb stay in the desired rotational position, but at least you can look through the lens from the front to see where it is at. 13) Feed the remainder of the black protective sleeve back over the two headlight wires. 14) Plug in the headlight wires to the bike and reinstall the headlight. Lighting won't be as good as with the glass lens, especially if your plastic is all scratched and hazy. Might be worth a bit of polishing if it is that bad... ~
  13. HairyScary

    Stator Rewind-IGNITION not lights

    http://www.crustyquinns.com/tech/stator.html is what you are looking for.
  14. HairyScary

    XR600 96/97 Manual

    While it is for the older XR600, there is a manual at: free.hostdepartment.com/x/xr600 THings like the rear drum brakes, forks (non cartridge) and shock (remote reservoir with ATF) will be dated but I'm sure a lot of the sections on motor internals will be identical
  15. HairyScary

    Headlight protection

    You can run the 55W all the time. The design of the regulator makes it so the stator is operating at full output all the time (the regulator simply eats excess power until the voltage drops down to about 13V). So if you have the light on, the regulator doesn't have to eat as much power. Note that with the stock (aka weak) stator, if you have a 55W headlight and then turn on a 22W brake light, the extra load will cause the headlight to dim significantly -- especially when the engine is at lower RPM. You may find this unacceptable. I wouldn't recommend using the stock stator with a brake light for this reason.
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