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About dakh

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  1. dakh

    07 250r rebuild time

    OP, pull the oil filter and I bet it'll be full of ground up big end thrust washer. HotRods cranks were good for me as well, had a number of them and I can't say OEM is any better. Maybe a safer bet still, but the rebuild kit with all the gaskets etc. is good value and spares the hassle of having to order everything piecemeal from an OEM parts list. If anything I don't quite like the crank seals that come with the kit, had problems with the seal lip not seating well on the crank (getting chewed inwards when installing the crank), and them not staying where they should be in the cases. But once installed they held up good too.
  2. dakh

    debugging a weird carb isse

    Very interesting, thank you @mlatour I'll go ahead and order up a new float (or two). Could be that after, uh, 14 years of sloshing around in gas they don't perform as they should.
  3. dakh

    debugging a weird carb isse

    Hm, so I put the float where I think it should be and then did the "lean test" and the bike wasn't dumping fuel from the overflow at lean angles where I think it shouldn't. So looks to me the clear hose simply isn't a valid way to verify the level of fuel in the fuel bowl.
  4. dakh

    debugging a weird carb isse

    For reference here's a thread on crfsonly where the same problem is reported. No good info there on why https://crfsonly.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40460
  5. So I'm a bit at a loss on what to do here. Did a bunch of searching and seems like there are folks having a similar issue but nobody that I could find actually had a working fix. The issue is the bike is hard to start when warmed up and I'm pretty sure it has to do with float level. It's flooding and if I turn the petcock off and lean it over, then try to start it it starts just fine. So too high of a float level, should be easy right? I grab a clear hose, turn the fuel on, attach the hose to float drain, rout it up, and see where the fuel level is in the bowl. It's a bit above the top of the float bowl. Okay, take the bowl off, bend the tang a bit, put it back together, do the clear hose thing. Here's where my problem starts -- nothing changed! I did this a few more times (bending the tang a little more), and there were no changes in the fuel level. Then when I bent it way too much it just cut the fuel altogether and it wasn't coming into the bowl at all. So, WTF? If I had a bad float valve it would have to be really overflowing and dripping from the overflow hose, but it's not doing that. But adjusting the float has no effect on the fuel level. When I first opened it up I measured where the float starts pushing the spring in the float valve and it was maybe a couple millimeters off, so I adjusted it to where it should be by the measurement method from the service manual and left it be. Now the really weird part is that this is the second carb that is doing this, and the first one I couldn't figure it out fast enough to be ready for my next ride and I swapped a spare carb in. On that one I actually got the bowl off, and was holding the float with a screwdriver with gas on, and made sure that it both doesn't leak when the float is pushed up and that it starts dumping fuel from the float valve at the right float height. But still, measuring with the clear hose from the drain it was above the float bowl seam and didn't respond to adjusting the tang. Before I go down the rabbit hole of trying to yank the valve seat out and replace that o-ring that's behind it, maybe someone has a better explanation for what's going on? Leaky float valve seems to be out of question that would make it leak from the overflow, and neither of the two carbs did that. They both did start leaking from the overflow when the bike was leaned over only a bit more than sidestand lean, which is consistent with the float being too high. I'm almost inclined to start looking for something that blocks the float travel so it doesn't shut the fuel off based on the tang. Can that happen?
  6. dakh

    450r trail/enduro

    FWIW I ran 13/50 with full Rekluse at Tahuya (single track) and I thought 1st gear is mostly useless. About B Vet pace. Will have to experiment since I think there's merit to current gearing keeping it in 2nd most of the time, but maybe gearing way up like 14/50 or even 48 may be the best since it'll keep me in 1st for the slow stuff and give me good top end.
  7. dakh

    450r trail/enduro

    Came down with a root canal infection. Good stuff, makes you contemplate the meaning of life. I probably have at least a couple yes. How about 30 shipped, that and clutch cover. Not promising shipment before Friday though, I still look like I got into an argument with Mike Tyson.
  8. dakh

    450r trail/enduro

    The fix to this is mostly filing the inner tooth on the brake lever and then safety-wiring a piece of hose to the inside of it. Beefier clutch covers do of course help too. jblob I have a few of stock clutch covers laying around and plenty of clutch perches since I effin hate them for some reason (maybe because they're made of cheese).
  9. dakh

    450r trail/enduro

    I created a bastardized 450x at some point that used R subframe, airbox, etc. You'd be surprised to find how many parts on a 450X are different from R. Lots and lots. I like the simplicity of the R bike much more, personally. Got rid of that X. With the prices the way they are I'd expect it'd be much easier and even more economical not to mess around and just get an X bike. It still wins off-road races at national level and the recipe for modifying them to that level is well known, so obviously nothing wrong with them.
  10. dakh

    bike dies with hot start

    Is the compression release gap adjusted to spec too?
  11. dakh

    bike dies with hot start

    Yea. Remind us what problem were you trying to solve by installing a bigger pilot jet?
  12. dakh

    bike dies with hot start

    @Branden16 There's FAQ sticky in this section (450R/X), one of the first links is a description on how to do that.
  13. dakh

    2003 versus 2006 forks

    AFAIR caliper mount is different on 02-03 forks. Just need a bracket from that year. Geometry is slightly different too. Used forks are so cheap these days I don't know why would you bother though, unless you just happen to have older set for next to nothing.
  14. dakh

    Stalling in tight spots

    My '05 has a monster flywheel (+13 AFAIR) and Rekluse so technically it shouldn't ever stall but it does. I experimented a bit to understand what exactly makes it stall and I think it stalls when there was a blip of the throttle (like to get over a root or something) followed by zero throttle immediately. I think it dies because accelerator pump squirt is pretty long and if you close the throttle faster than squirt duration, it floods and dies. It even makes the noise as if it's backfiring from exhaust when it dies. I'm putting a bigger leak jet in to test this theory. Another way to deal with it would be to reduce the travel of the AP diaphragm but that seems like a bigger hassle, although might be a better way to address the issue.
  15. dakh

    bike dies with hot start

    In general I think folks hang up a lot because they don't quite understand how to tell what the bike wants. I'm no big expert but from my experience if there are no other issues with the carb like air leaks and such, it is pretty easy to tell if the bike wants more or less fuel in the pilot circuit: 1. If it doesn't start and you whack the throttle open a few times to give it more fuel via the accelerator pump and it starts or tries to start, it's lean 2. If it doesn't start and slowly opening the throttle all the way and kicking it a couple dozen times, then closing the throttle and kicking it makes it start or at least try, it's rich Cold starts and the ability to use choke and hot start just add more tools to this debugging procedure. More fuel, more air, etc. -- try different combinations and see what happens. Make adjustments based on what you observed.