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About gregsportster

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  1. My Brother had the same dilemma. He was looking at the CRF250f, but was concerned about the limitations of the bike on the suspension side as well as somewhat on the power side. He ended up getting a great deal on a new 2019 YZ250FX. I must say that I liked his bike so much that I sold my KTM and bought myself a used 2015 FX. The FX’s do have a bit of a snappy off idle throttle response - will need a bit of clutching for tight twisty trails, however the abruptness can be made a bit softer by returning the ECU with a power tuner and/or a G2 throttle tamer. With all that in mind - to me - the 250FX’s are great tight trails weapons that can also do double duty on an MX track for a fun track day. I say don’t get the CRF250F or the WR250R. The former will cost way too much to get it where you’d like it (and still not quite get there, and the latter is a bit heavy). If you’d like a detuned YZ250FX then get a WR250F. With the different ECU, intake baffles, and muffler it’s power output is lower/motor much tamer. But it can be opened up to FX specs if you want. I have a 2006 KLX250 that is OK on the trails. I sure don’t like it when I drop it as it weighs 40lbs more than the FX, and its suspension is horrible in comparison. The front gets deflected easily by rocks, and the bike bottoms out too easily on large obstacles and jumps. The forks will be revalved by me this winter with gold valves. That should help some. But, it is not really a trail bike....it’s a well designed dual sport that you can put some serious road miles on without complaint. What I’m getting at here, is that the KLX250, and maybe the KL300, may be a bit to heavy, and the suspension a bit soft for your size. I have not ridden a KLX300 so please don’t take this as advice for or against one. The CRF250X should also be in the running if you are a dyed in the wool Red Team rider. I’ve read that they are great trail bikes. Good luck in your decision. I enjoy wrenching on and modifying bikes, but I would not buy a ttr230, CRF230/250 because it would cost too much for me to get them to where I could enjoy them on the trails I ride, and they still would be a compromise. Greg
  2. I should have been more clear. A full charge overnight at my home, and the capability for a quick charge down the road at some type of fast charging station if necessary - although that would be rare if ever needed with the 400 mile range. This car (with a 400 mile range) would take care of all of my car driving needs. Now with that in mind, I would still own a truck for moving my bikes and other sporting equipment....especially over longer distances. Greg
  3. Yes, when you consider the whole supply chain of generating power (using fossil fuels) to power transmission, to power storage, to power use by the electric motors in a car; electric cars are less efficient in use of power than todays fuel efficient gasoline cars. But with that in mind, even though electric cars are less efficient, their cost per mile is much lower than a gasoline powered car because the electricity to power an electric car can be made and distributed much cheaper than it costs to produce gasoline and its supply chain. If we could only power our cars with less costly fuels such as the oil used in steam generator plants (and get it at the same cost) then we could have really low cost transportation! Electric generators and motors are very efficient. At designed load typically above 90%, where a gasoline powered car will be around 40% or so at peak efficiency, and 0% at idle. With that in mind, I do like the idea of electric vehicles. Large amounts of torque, excellent acceleration, no oil changes, internal combustion engine or transmission issues, and you can fill er up at your house for a lower cost than going to a gasoline station. But there are drawbacks that we all know, and we may not be saving the environment by using them. (I’m not sure of the carbon footprint of electric cars vs gasoline when it comes to the complete supply chain of fuel and use of same). Interesting conversation. I look forward to owning an electric car someday that will do 0-60 in under 6 seconds (easily achievable), have a range of 400 miles, be able to fully charge overnight at my house, and be at least as big as a Volkswagen Golf. And will not cost me any more than a Golf GTI. Is this all achievable, I don’t know. Greg
  4. Beta was extending the warranties on the main bearings on these bikes recognizing that they have a problem with them failing. It may be a long shot since yours is a 2017, but I’d contact my local Beta dealer to see if they will fix it for you under the extended warranty. Greg
  5. Hmmm, maybe you should say that to all the Electric locomotives out there. Don’t forget that Diesel Electric locomotives use Diesel motors to drive generators that provide electric power to the electric engines that provide thrust to the train. There is not a readily available, mass produced motor -that I am aware of - that can out torque an electric motor. And it supplies max torque at zero rpm. With all that said, I kind of like the looks of the truck. It is a bit impractical for my use as a dirt bike hauler as I have to drive too far (beyond its range) to get to/from many of the trails that I enjoy. Greg
  6. I haven't ridden either bike, but it is not all that expensive for a mechanic such as yourself to install the parts necessary for adding a headlight and speedo/hr meter. Stator - 170 USD AC Regulator - 20 USD Stator puller - 15 USD Polisport headlight - 60 USD - will use all of the stator's lighting power though to run one element. LED will be more expensive. Trail tech Endurance II computer (for speed and hrs) - 100 USD So that's less than 370 USD for the parts you need to add the electronics you want. If you go with a bicycle headlight then it'll be even cheaper. Personally, I'm going to wait until Yamaha adds an e-start to their x-models, then probably pick up a 125X. Until then I'll ride my YZ250FX - which is a great bike with plenty of power for me, however it would be nice to have a lighter bike with the lighter bike feel on tight technical trails. Although the 250FX at 250 lbs is not really a pig. Best of luck in your decision. I've owned KTM, Kawa, and Yama......I never had one I didn't like. Greg
  7. The bikes are similar enough to where the YouTube video should be helpful. You can either buy a Hotcams autodecompression cam for your bike, or a Yamaha wr450 exhaust cam. (There may be other brands). WR450 exhaust cams can be purchased new, or I found a used 2006 one for 99.95 on eBay. It is located in Denver Colorado though. I also found a Hotcams autodecompression cam for 149.38 on Amazon. Personally I’d go with the Hotcams since it was specifically designed for this mod on the 400’s and 426’s, and its only 150 dollars. Here is link that may be helpful on cam install: https://www.southbayriders.com/forums/threads/106199/ Good luck, Greg
  8. Cool, that would put it at around 50hp at the crank. Thanks for the post.
  9. Hey Dahammadad, I had a WR400 at one time as well. Great bikes. Assuming that the bike is in good condition, and derestricted with jetting spot on, the first mod that I would make is install an auto-decompression WR450 exhaust camshaft. It will make starting the bike much easier. Greg
  10. Hi Hammy-56, Thanks for the clarification on the street nomenclature for the TZ250. I never owned one, but did own a Toomey kitted RZ350. Fun bike. I only noted what I’ve read on the internet. Dyno pull of a TZ250 at 97 hp as I recall. Not saying it will be rideable in a race. I had no idea that kart 125cc motors were getting to 50 hp. But I guess with YZ125’s running around 35 hp at the rear wheel, that 50 hp at the crankshaft could be achievable through extensive mods. I sure would like to see/read about such a motor in action. Greg
  11. I run a Michelin AC-10 on the rear of my converted dirt bike. The only road it sees though is getting between trail systems. It works pretty well for me when I have to run a DOT approved tire. With that in mind, if I’m riding my dual sport, I use Dunlop D606’s cuz they are stable at 75 mph whereas my Michelin AC-10’s are not. AC-10’s are rated to over 100 mph, however my bike starts getting twitchy with them at about 65. Some DOT tires may be better on the trails than the AC-10, but the AC-10 is the best one that I’ve tried. Good luck, Greg
  12. It’d probably be difficult with a manufacturer’s already existing 125cc 2 stroke motor. I would think that it would take a well balanced engine with light parts (read expensive metals to get the strength you’d need) to reach the RPM necessary for 50 hp with a 125cc thumper. I have heard of a Yamaha TZ250 (twin cylinder street going two stroke) getting to almost 100 hp. However the power band was almost non existent. Please report back if you’re able to do it. Greg
  13. As CBLCrash mentioned, the tuner does allow you too reset the hours to “0.” And to my knowledge, there is no way to find out if the hours have been reset. Greg
  14. I like that new pipe design! As an aside my YZ250FX with the backward leaning cylinder and pipe routed close to the motor makes it a lot more difficult to dent the pipe on a rock as compared to my KTM350XCF when the bike is laid down. KTM sure did put that big four stroke pipe out there for anything to whack. Greg
  15. I don’t think it looks bad. That’s what I used on my KDX, and it worked liked a champ. Two clamps for less than 5 dollars. The parts were locally available, and saved quite a bit of dollars. But to each their own. Greg
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