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DrzDick

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  1. The black That part is the diaphragm. The carb on 'S' doesn't have an acc pump as it doesn't need it.
  2. I remember some cars use to have a sensor integrated into the dipstick, maybe one of these could be merged into the frame oil tank filler cap.
  3. There is a bolt near the oil filter that is for connecting a pressure gauge to check this, do you have the workshop manual? (see attached) When this has been discussed previously it's always been thought that the oil pressure is too low to use an oil pressure switch. I think a better system would be to have a low level warning sensor on the frame oil tank.
  4. DrzDick

    Suz DRZ400 coolant overflow reservoir - is it critical??

    Nope, you could always just run the overflow into a simple catch tank at first just to see how much you are losing, if any. My vents a lot but it's an 'E' which is used for quite technical trail riding, and has no automatic fan.
  5. DrzDick

    Why do I keep going through rear wheel bearing?

    I don't believe this happens. What I do know is that my front wheel bearings were dying after only a few rides when I was driving them in tight and on just the outer race. Once I changed my method so as to stop driving them as soon as the inner race contacts the spacer, the bearings started to last much longer. If you look at a drawing of a hub and have some mechanical understanding of what is happening it should be clear that there is only one proper way to install bearings, it is with both sides inners & outers locked together. Any advice to drive them in a different way is redundant as it is teaching an inferior method to the job. Yes, some hub designs may be more sensitive to this that others, and higher quality bearings may be more forgiving. There could be several factors that help support the other side of this argument but there is simply no denying that driving on both races together is the only correct method. Anyway, I'm out.. install them however you like. Peace out... (mic drop)...
  6. DrzDick

    Why do I keep going through rear wheel bearing?

    People... don't do this. If you do you might want to consider repacking it with swarfega with grit in it as somehow grease just doesn't seem hardcore enough.
  7. DrzDick

    Looking for advice on my poorly cylinder head

    How do you do that, rig up a compressor to the frame oil tank lid maybe? So what do you think happened Erik? Piston/cylinder death unrelated to the valves getting bent... I can't help but think those were two separate things. Sounds like the timing wasn't set up correctly when the cylinder was replaced.
  8. DrzDick

    Looking for advice on my poorly cylinder head

    So is it the same head & cylinder or not. I'm totally confused now. The first posts suggests replacements were bought after the oil starvation, and that is what were are looking at???
  9. DrzDick

    Looking for advice on my poorly cylinder head

    I think the engine (head & cylinder) in the picture is a different one to the one which died of oil starvation.
  10. DrzDick

    Looking for advice on my poorly cylinder head

    Could just be the photo but they do look a little bent. I have removed valves before just using a socket as I don't have the correct tool. Put something under the valve to stop it moving downwards and place a socket (with small extension as a handle) over the retainer and press it downwards. Doing that will flex the spring inwards and release the pressure on the valve locks which holds the retainer in. Now the tricky part, do the above whilst holding the head upside down. If you manage that you can usually shake the valve locks loose so they fall into the socket, at that point the spring might fly out if you release it suddenly so release the socket slowly. You could also just buy a valve spring compressor tool but where's the fun in that.
  11. DrzDick

    Why do I keep going through rear wheel bearing?

    I'm not really sure what point your making to be honest, as I am struggling to understand what you are saying. It reads like you are saying that each side has to be driven down to the stops, which is not correct. One side seats on a "land", the other side stops when it makes contact with the spacer. When pressed in (or hammered) all bearing faces should be locked (inners and outers) and should be driven in tight. Once you remove the press the bearings may "relax", which might mean the spacer then feels slightly loose. When the axle is torqued up the inners (that had relaxed) will be pushed back into alignment and the spacer will be tight.
  12. DrzDick

    Why do I keep going through rear wheel bearing?

    There will be some but that is simply due to the clearances within each bearing. If the bearings are installed with a flat plate (inner & outer in solid contact) then the bearings should be installed tight to the spacer. This is the best way to install them as it simulates what is going to happen once the axle is torqued.
  13. DrzDick

    Why do I keep going through rear wheel bearing?

    I doubt this is a chain tightness issue, and if it were surely it would affect the bearings on the sprocket side more?
  14. DrzDick

    Generic Battery Tender overcharging battery?

    I use an Optimate charger which has a tender mode, which I don't use. I don't think lead acid batteries enjoy being float charged for long periods. I think it's better to give the battery a few hours charge every couple of weeks, but with an automatic charger that will regulate it properly and switch off when the battery is full (or at least default to float charge mode). I have 3 bikes (5 here in total) and I keep them all topped up with just one charger.
  15. DrzDick

    Why do I keep going through rear wheel bearing?

    I think this is the problem, sounds like classic side loading. Try again but with a plate across both races on both sides. I just use two sockets placed backwards so they present a flat solid face to the bearings. Edit - unless this brass punch is solid and thus fully covers the bearing?
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