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About DrzDick

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    United Kingdom

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  1. DrzDick

    Power washing

    I always try to avoid seals, or at least back the lance right off to lesson the impact - particularly the wheel bearing shafts and the swing arm to frame area & the rear linkage, also give the chain an easy time. Don't get too close to stickers or the radiator, or your clocks. Only exception is the back of front sprocket, you want to try and clear mud from there (unless you only ride on the highway).
  2. DrzDick

    uk tyre mot

    Yup, got one of those but don't use it much anymore. Just easier to take the tube off whilst it's within the tyre, and put them back on as one. But yeah..., I was joking about the mallet hurting the rim, probably no worse than the force the tyre lever puts into it.
  3. DrzDick

    uk tyre mot

    The new method I have learnt is to put the tube in to the tyre before fitting, rather that trying to wrestle it in after fitting one side and then struggling to feed the pesky valve through the rim. Makes installing HD tubes much easier.
  4. DrzDick

    uk tyre mot

    - just need to have the rim straightened afterwards.
  5. DrzDick

    uk tyre mot

    I fit my own. It's a skill you might need if you ride green lanes. I also swap tyres around sometimes, and reverse the front when it loses its edges. Shops tend not to like fitting pre-worn tyres, and it'd get expensive at £10 a time. I can swap a tyre in far less time than it'd take to remove the wheel and take it to a garage. It's a PITA at first but eventually you get the hang of it. I have recently changed my fitting technique and now it's even easier to do. I've also bought a bead breaker tool but I mainly have that as it's holds the wheel still whilst I work on it. Doing it yourself means you have time to thoroughly clean the rim before re-installation. I don't even use rim tapes anymore, just 2 wraps of duct tape and it's good to go.
  6. DrzDick

    uk tyre mot

    My tip would be to find your local TRF group, which would be a good move anyway if you are intending to explore your local green lanes, but more importantly they can tell you which MOT test centers are sympathetic to our bikes. First thing I do when I move to a new area if sniff out a good MOT garage. I tend to run road legal tyres on my DRZ (Maxxis IT, Mitas CO2, Pirelli MT43) but the exhaust can cause issues at some places, and that goes for my road bikes too.
  7. DrzDick

    2007 YZ450 Overheating

    Does the YZ450 have a thermostat? If so you could try running without it.
  8. DrzDick

    DRZ400 E air box made smaller

    UK 'E' models had no snorkel, maybe someone added it to yours?
  9. DrzDick

    Fork bleeding (air bleeders)

  10. DrzDick

    Fork bleeding (air bleeders)

    That's why I want a set bleed valves, so I can do it quickly whilst balancing the bike. I think the logical time to bleed them will be just after stopping for a break or fuel. I want to be able to vent them whilst they are warm (at operating temp). With push button bleed valves it can be an easy process. Engine OFF, put in first gear, side stand down, pull bike backwards to take up the chain slack and then lean/lift into the stand. It will be easy to lift the front slightly and hold it one handed freeing up the other to hit those bleeder buttons.
  11. DrzDick

    KTM 1190 Adventure 2015

    Only had her a short while but so far I'm very impressed.
  12. DrzDick

    KTM 1190 Adventure (2015)


    Only had her a short while but so far I'm very impressed.
  13. DrzDick

    Fork bleeding (air bleeders)

    Mine is an early 'E', which are the same forks as used on the 'S' from about 2003 onwards (I think).
  14. DrzDick

    Fork bleeding (air bleeders)

    Had a chat with a suspension guy the other day and picked up some tips about when to bleed the air out of the forks and how the bike should be set to do so. I was never quite sure what level the bike should be at, should it be when sagged under its own weight, and if it was something that should just be set when cold, like tyre pressure. Well... it should be done regularly, when cold, when hot, whenever you have time. You should try to keep the forks at atmospheric pressure. Also it should be done with the forks at full extension, so put the side stand down and pull the front towards the stand to raise the bike, then bleed the forks with the wheel off the ground. Some of you may already know this but I didn't so I'm sharing it. Also I'm now going to get a set of bleed valves to replace those bleed screws as unscrewing them time & time again isn't really practical, especially when out riding.
  15. DrzDick

    DRZ - charging dropping

    So just to clarify, Headlight ON, 13.6v just before the connector and 13.3 at the battery - 0.3 volt drop. Headlight OFF, 13.7 just before the connector and 13.45 at the battery - 0.25 volt drop Hmm... I think you just have a weak stator but possibly not a faulty one. I was expecting the voltage to recover more with the headlight disconnected... but it didn't... If you did the Free Power Mod you could reduce some of that voltage drop. Maybe get it to 13.6v at the battery with the headlight ON, which is better than it is now. 13.6v will still charge the battery and it's possible that even at 13.3v you might never suffer any flat battery issues. I wouldn't bother replacing the stator because of this.