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About slowriding

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    TT Titanium Member

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  • Location
    British Columbia
  • Interests
    2 wheels or sliding on snow mainly. Working on vehicles.
  1. slowriding

    Drz accessory/battery question

    In many places this is not a legal street set up. If you stall the bike in traffic you go dark and at night could be in a very risky situation. Street legal bikes generally need a number of minutes of reserve power for lighting regardless if they are equipped with electric start.
  2. slowriding

    Drz accessory/battery question

    In reference to bump starting: If the 'free power' mod has been done then the power goes from the stator to the battery to the bike. Since the fuse is between the battery and the bike the bike won't get power if the 'free power' mod has been done and the fuse blows. This actually brings up a safety point that if there is a short in the stator or associated wiring there is nothing to prevent melted wiring. Turning the bike off would do nothing to stop the potential fire. It is probably a good idea to install a fuse in the 'free power' mod wire from the R/R to the battery. Life can be complicated and decisions have to be made. With the wiring stock even if the fuse blows the bike will keep running depending on what caused the fuse to blow. With the 'free power mod' if the fuse blows the bike is dead which means no lights and the bike coasts to a stop.
  3. Just to explain this comment to the OP a bit further as it could be the problem. On cars it isn't that uncommon to 'lap' the valves onto the seats but applying abrasive compound between the valve face and the seat and by spinning the valve back and forth with a tool make the two match perfectly for a good seal. That works fine with big heavy valves and fairly soft valve seats. On higher performance engines in order to reach higher rpms a lighter valve is desired. Putting a hardened surface on the valve also allows a harder seat. Now if you attempt to lap this the hard coating on the valve is damaged and not much is done to the seat. The seat must be cut using 3 different angles with appropriate equipment and this should be done when changing valves. The equipment is very accurate and once cut this way the seats are ready to go. Put new valves against freshly cut valve seats and you have a seal. The surfaces are very hard and should last a very long time. But again, if the mechanic 'laps' the valves attempting to not have to properly cut the seats or aggressively laps new valves to fresh seats the effect is thousands of miles of wear happening in minutes. Once the hard coating on the valves is damaged they wear out extremely fast. Edit: mixed information regarding if DRZ valves have hard facing. Again, never lap modern lightweight valves. Edit: They do say never to say never. I had a chat with Noble and he pointed out that he has seen DRZ valves lightly lapped that lasted just fine. If the intent of the lapping was to try and dress a bad seat then that is all sorts of wrong. If it was a quick check to see the contact pattern or similar then it likely won't hurt anything. I have seen valves wear very quickly when air filters have not been properly re-oiled with the correct oil for the type of filter. This means no 10W30 on foam filters, the proper oil is very sticky in comparison. It still took well over 20 hours to ruin those valves though so it still doesn't explain failure in 300km.
  4. slowriding

    drz 400 wont start just pops and flames

    Looking at this picture: Good: The zipties are not melted off. Overall the color doesn't look too dark. Possible sign of a problem: on the left side of the picture the inner plastic ring is missing a segment. Is this a sign of heat or physical damage? Also the last couple windings on the pole at about 4 o'clock look darker although the ziptie is not melted. Can't tell: on the other side where the wires connect is there any sign of fraying or deterioration of the wires or the fabric sleeves that cover the connections? I have had one in my hands that failed in that way. There are only 2 ways to really know. If you have a known good stator you could swap. Otherwise following through all the steps of the tests is the only way to really know. That also requires a meter that can do 'peak voltage' measurement. Pay particular attention to if there is continuity from any coil to another. By this I mean signal coil to charge coils, or trigger coil to either. The trigger coil is usually fine. Any problems are usually from the charge windings to ground, or the signal coil to the charge coils, or the signal coil shorting and having the wrong resistance. Note: The pictures I added are of my own stator which is still running strong 20,000km after taking this picture. I mention that if you are trying to compare the color of the windings to yours. Sorry the pictures are not clearer but they should give you an idea where there should be ties and sleeves.
  5. slowriding

    Electrical Trouble Over Charging?

    No the power is not dumped to ground. There is no 'ground' until after the R/R which is after the regulation is done. Even if the regulation happened on the DC output of the R/R there would still have to be a load to dissipate the energy The power is dissipated within the stator windings by shorting the windings. The regulator makes a circuit (conventional flow theory) from the positive end of the currently generating coil pair, through the SCR, through the negative rectification diode, and to the negative end of the same currently generating coil pair (it is star wound so there are always 2 coils in the active circuit). So when the regulation circuitry detects the voltage on the DC output is too high it triggers the SCRs which short circuit the currently generating charge coil pair and thus clamp the output voltage. Rather than the battery and bike electrical loads receiving the output it is shorted inside the R/R. The SCR's are either on or off so there is minimal energy disappated as heat at the R/R. Page 7-7 of the manual has a nice diagram.
  6. slowriding

    drz 400 wont start just pops and flames

    I am not saying the stator is the problem but on the DRZ's "spark AT THE RIGHT TIME" is what is important. If the signal coil is failed they have a habit of sparking but not at the right time. There is the ignition coil, up on the frame. Not what we are talking about. On the stator there are 3 distinct windings. 1 is the trigger coil, mounted by itself on the outside of the flywheel. 2 is the signal coil which is an extra winding on top of one of the charge windings. 3 is the set of charge windings. Sometimes the signal coil shorts out to the charge coil, and a few people have found that unplugging the charge windings from the R/R via the plug with 3 yellow wires tucked in behind the front edge of the airbox door let the bike at least run. Sometimes where the wires connect to the stator windings the insulation will fray or the wires will break, which might be fixable. Sometimes as mentioned a bolt will back out and physically destroy the windings. The buzzing CDI sounds like it charging up the capacitor especially if the battery is a bit low. Mixture screw (idle mixture screw) should be about 2.75 turns out as a starting point. With a CDI (capacitive discharge ignition) the spark at cranking speed should be just as strong as one at full engine speed. If it looks weak blue rather than bright white suspect the stator not sending the proper pulses, and by that I mean the signal coil is bad. If you look at the stator and any of the posts look dark compared to the others you probably have a toasted stator. Look for the darkened windings and other signs of overheating. The ignition coils rarely fail, and if you get any spark is probably not the problem. The CDI's are next to bulletproof. Although I would not say failure prone, the stators fail more often than people would like.
  7. How loose you let the chain run and how worn you let the chain and sprockets get will have influence on how much the chain will rub on the guide, and how worn you let the guide get will influence whether it wears into the swingarm.
  8. You can disassemble the vacuum petcock and see which rubber parts it needs. Generally it is the o-ring found on the vacuum actuated plunger which you need and that is 4mmID x 2mm thick (so 8mm OD). It leaks once it gets deformed or worn. They are cheap but make sure you get an o-ring made of a material that is not affected by gas (or corn alcohol if you live in the USA). If the "smiley face" gasket behind the selector lever has torn it is available either as part of a rebuild kit or on its own ordered from a smaller bike but not as a DRZ400 stock part.
  9. By gosh is that there a corroded trace? You can also put some diaelectric grease over the areas that seem to get wet. Also double check none of the connections from the wires to the board are corroded I had to fix the end 2. A wiggle broke the corroded ends off the board.
  10. It is waterproof from rain, but there is a breather on the bottom. It does seem to take a lot to get it wet but I managed. Mine got moisture inside which corroded some of the traces on the board. I was able to carefully use some really fine wire and bypass the one broken trace and it has been working for a couple years. My bike also sleeps outside. I believe another variable is the angle of the bike while exposed to water. For a couple years I would trailer my bike exposed to weather and it would be strapped straight up and down so the water would not drain off the lower corner of the speedo as it will while on the sidestand.
  11. slowriding

    drz400s carb issues

    This is with the carb on its side so the float just holds the needle against the seat but does not compress the spring loaded plunger inside the needle.
  12. slowriding

    drz400s carb issues

    Fresh gas first. That might be the entire problem. Carb circuits are the passageways drilled through the carb body. To clean the circuits you spray Brake Cleaner through whereever and every where you can get it through. Carb cleaner is very aggressive and can damage rubber quickly thus the brake cleaner suggestion.
  13. slowriding

    drz400s carb issues

    Did the little spring/wire that hooks the float needle to the float get put around or on top of the float tange? Does the float move freely? Is the float correct side up? Are the small jets in the correct locations?
  14. slowriding

    Engine is cutting out.

    If you want a reliable stator most will recommend either stock or Ricky Stator. Ricky Stator will be less expensive.
  15. slowriding

    Engine is cutting out.

    Fingers crossed you solved your problem. The 'S' CDI won't work unless you modify the harness slightly. On an S the CDI needs a ground on a certain pin to say it is ok to fire and the kickstand/neutral safety circuit is satisfied. On an 'E' version of the CDI that same pin gets ground from the kill switch to stop the engine. Removing the wire from the connector can make it run but then you don't have a kill switch. The wiring diagrams are available for both bikes http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/839366-anybody-know-what-this-wire-is-for/?p=8681883 Typically charging and cutting out problems are related to the stator. CDI's tend to be bulletproof but of course there is always the exception. R/R's generally don't give many problems either. Did you connect one lead of a meter to engine case and then with the other lead probe each of the 3 yellow wires (at the plug that goes to the R/R) and to the signal coil wires at the CDI plug? Meter set on resistance. ANY reading is a bad stator as it indicates a coil is shorted to the stator frame. The stator frame is bolted to the engine case which is why attaching a wire to the engine case completes the test circuit. What meter setting were you using to check the stator output when you got >100V? AC is the correct setting. If you have any further problems take the time to lean the bike to the right side (this avoids oil draining) and remove the stator cover. The stator is attached to the inside of the cover and if the stator is failing most of the time there is evidence of overheating or some frayed wiring. Occasionally there is significant physical damage from a bolt that has backed out of the stator or the starter clutch. If it is a problem with the signal coil (the signal coil is part of the stator) the typical symptoms are yellow instead of blue spark, and it is at the wrong time so the bike won't run.