Erik Marquez

Global Moderators
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Erik Marquez last won the day on April 9 2011

Erik Marquez had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3,904 Excellent

About Erik Marquez

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  1. Its the return pull cable, some don't run one. Clearance is fine and normal Yes the barrel end is not fully seated in the throttle wheel, I see that a lot as the wheel is two stamped parts fitted together with a gap in between, some cable barrels will do that, sometimes it is the wheel that is spread open a bit and it will allows the end to move out of position like that. Fiddle with it and get the barrel back in place if you want, but its not going to "fall out" with the way it is. Unless you think it is rubbing on the wire cable dues to being out of positioning (cant tell from the pics) Id not mess with it. Order a aftermarket wheel, have on hand, install next time you have a reason to pull the carb and the cable end issue goes away for sure. Or, if this is going to keep you up at nights,,, install that wheel now, and then forget about it. ...Honestly, that's what I did..
  2. That is what happens when you have no oil or oil pump failure. Head is commonly first thing damaged, and yes as Im sure you guessed its is now junk, as is the cam. Motor needs a compete tear down.. You might have gotten lucky and not had crank or transmission damage, but ..........
  3. And just to be sure, you are on the compression stroke, the timing line (not the T) is centered in the window, and if you look at the other side of the head/cams, the cam lobes are pointing at 10 & 2? And you rotated the motor in the normal running direction as you snuck up on the timing line? If you passed it, you turned back 1/2 revolution, then forward again to the timing mark? Thats really important so the chain / gear slack is on the correct side of the cams Yes your intake cam appears to be off one tooth..but the EX cam also looks to not be lined up correctly either You can check the valve clearance as long as the motor is cool and the cam lobe is anywhere on the base does not NEED to be at TDC to check clearance
  4. The screen is on the output line of the frame oil tank... so all the oil that is coming FROM the motor goes into the tank and though the screen Not sure what it would be for valve clearance check, but 1 hour for a check is a guess....another hour if they have to adjust valves under both cams So up to 2 hours at local labor rate is a WAG Check is pretty easy if you want to give it a go
  5. Ya but yours was broke......
  6. A: Once a year???? Well ok then, I guess if it sat 9 month of a year that might work for me, buuuuuuut B: Thats not a terrible amount of metal, few misted shifts can do that..Is it steel or Aluminum (magnetic or not) C: Did you check and clean the oil line screen? If so what was on it? If not, please do The oil line screen.. Many do not even know it is there.( the screen is Part number 49065). This screen should be cleaned as a first time oil change, any time after internal motor work has been done,, and once a season,, just to be sure. Lastly, yes a valve check is a good idea so you have a base even if no adjustment is needed. A leak down test is a great way to "check" the condition of the top end. Do it or dont, its not a bad idea, but perhaps not in the needed category unless you feel you have a problem with power Change the oil, filter, check and clean the screen.. Ride it for 20 hours (or the like) do that all again, see if it is still sheading metal, decide from there.
  7. The debris in the gear shift cam, locking the pin or pawl are a common find when the issues is "wont shift" Good job on finding and fixing. The burnt oil and contamination on the clutch basket and very worn basket fingers and the pressure disk is really out of place compared to that picture of the inner right side of the motor.... So who knows, but it would be weird for someone to rebuild a motor and reinstall those nasty clutch parts.... But Ive seen crazy stuff like that before. Especially when the main motor work is farmed out, but the owner does the final "bolt on's" and reinstalls motor. At this point, its a few parts that need to be replaced regardless and 2 qt oil and a filter to get er going and see what happens... Ride it a few hours, drop the oil and filter, check the oil line screen again and see if it is still sheading metal.
  8. So your parting out this bike? If so, lets call this thread done. Your welcome to post your parts for sale in the classifieds here But we dont want to add that kind of thing to the tech pages as it really screws up the search function for future users.
  9. As long as the cams are in and cam caps snugged up, spin away, if cams are out, you must hold the chain up while rotating crank, so chain does not bunch up in the case at crank sprocket and damage case. Generally, Turn the crank counterclockwise to find timing mark, if you see and pass it, turn clockwise past timing mark, then CCW again to get back to mark.
  10. Sounds an awful lot like a valve hitting the piston BUT listening to sounds across the internet and diagnosing "what's wrong" is a wild ass guess at best.
  11. YIKES....... that is one of the worse cases of burnt, dirty oil caused contamination Ive ever seen in a DRZ....congrats, sort of Yes that pressure plate is trashed. Yes that basket is trashed. And with the look of that failed oil and the residue it has left on the clutch, Id guess the rest of the motor is the same and not long for this life.
  12. OK but NOT the basket..right? Are the pieces aluminum? or magnetic steel?