Erik Marquez

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Erik Marquez last won the day on April 9 2011

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About Erik Marquez

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  1. Check voltage at the battery 12.6v or so? good keep going, now check that under load of starting. Then check voltage at the relay, bat side..Same as you saw at battery? GOOD. now the starter side..same as the Bat side? Not check at the starter , Same as at the Relay? Check resistance between the Bat Neg post and the bolt on motor your ground cable is connected to. If your not getting voltage at the starter side of relay after pushing the starter button, that your issues is relay or starter button (or wiring) If your getting voltage at both sides of relay very close to bat voltage, and that same voltage reading at the starter motor terminal, you have a starter issue, if less voltage at starter motor you have a cable issue. Service manual trouble shooting the starter
  2. As already stated I do machine work now for need, but fun distraction as well. That used to be what building bikes was for, but now that it is work, bikes are, well work... So making that tool was for fun more than need. This seal can be installed, tool less or with a verity of tool options... But I have many dozens of seal, bearing and bushing seal installers (and removers) made on that lathe where those items can not be installed too less or with a hunk of plastic pipe...
  3. Short skirt piston problems Looks like the piston rolled over in the cylinder, which happens sometime when the piston is was south of worn out.
  4. Sure it'll run with that.......but you leave a lot on the table doing so.. I would have suggested just the 94mm BB and a serviceable head The stroker and port work was a waste of money if your not going to support it with intake , cams and exhaust.
  5. I contacted MAXRPM, they use a custom base and head gasket from COMETIC. So good on the manufacture... just don't damage the gaskets before install or during...... replacements are only available from MAXRPM I also asked who they were sourcing the 4mm cranks from for their kits, was pretty sure I know but wanted it from them...Yup, HotCranks. Trusted source as far as Im concerned, as Ive never had issuer with them or seen an issue from a confirmed source (a few rants with no facts to support it, yes)
  6. You put them in a very expensive rotating aqueous parts washer or You put them in a like very expensive Sonic tank with the correct soap or You use a solvent parts washer with clean solvent and a lot of hand work to get them close to that clean. Dry ice / Vapor blasting also does a magnificent job, but unless you have a shop local that will do odd jobs as time and the machine is available its likely out of a reasonable price range. I have a shop that builds F1 motors that will do it for me, but I have to drop them off and pick up personally, and the job can take an hour to 3 months to get done and it cost me dinner and beer for the shop guys after work when I pick up parts. To pay the shop rate it would be several hundred dollars. I use a mix of pre wash in solvent tank and final clean in Sonic tank
  7. so I realized why I never did this before......A its a shit ton of work and B I never order the same "set" of parts The Gasket kit includes the valve cover gasket, something think I have replaced only twice since 2003. The Kit includes the oil filter cover O ring D:2.6,ID:69.6 at almost $16 and rarely needs to be replaced Most builds don't need to have the clutch cover arm bearings and seal replaced, so just making a list of all bearings, seals, gaskets and o rings is not really helpful unless you put a note next to each line describing what the part is, when and why it might be replaced or might not needed to be replaced. As each build has different needs due to hours on motor, goal for the build..what needs to be replaced or not just depends and there is no perfect answer. My suggestion is, go to the parts source of your choice.. and go page section by page section.... (the ones with a dotted line have one or more bearing, gasket, seal or O ring that you might need for a engine rebuild) and just select the ones YOU want to replace
  8. The problem in looking on line is you have to know to look on many different parts pages as they will sneak a seal or O ring in one page, even if the same general component is listed on another page... Does your kit have a paper or metal base gasket? Are the base and head gaskets COMETIC, OEM? Other brand?
  9. I have a list I use to order from .I do it in kind of ala-cart fashion... Let me review it today and I'll post it here someplace ... Likely a new post in the FAQ
  10. There is no full Kit I can recommend. I only use OEM seals and O rings in my builds, so I get those from an OEM source I only use OEM bearings for transmission and motor other than crank bearings so same thing, OEM source. Crank bearings are either Hot Cranks supplied or OEM supplied. Head and base gaskets I use COMETIC or OEM.... I can not get those things in any kit form, so i don't buy full kits... You can get most OEM seals and gaskets for this motor in a kit though (so no bearings) it is an OEM part number and it takes 2 PN to get a "full" set of gaskets and seals... last I looked it is not a price break though over ordering individual seals and most times I dont need every seal and gasket, so I have only ordered the OEM seal kits a few times over the years. Are you concerned with forgetting a seal or bearing when placing an order? is that the reason for a "full" kit?
  11. Yes but that is an Optional plug not one spec'ed .. for the DRZ. Just like the CR8EK that i tend to run,it is an option plug not the spec'ed one and it will also come with the cap. EDIT ADD ahh, i used the word "correct" in that post above, that was a mistake, I should have used Specified, or called for as there are other brands that fit and "correct" yet come with a cap, and optional NGK plugs that are "correct" that come with a cap
  12. The correct spark plug in NGK CR8E will not come with that part....if cap is on your plug it is some other brand or style plug.
  13. I buy OEM bearings and seals for the 2003 KLX400, it takes a few more days sometimes but they are literally Suzuki parts in a Suzuki bag with a Kawasaki label on it and listed cheaper then the same part listed for a Suzuki DRZ. I know some $ can be saved, but time is money and souring "other" then OEM bearings is more time consuming and then Im assuming the additional risk of non OEM