Erik Marquez

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Erik Marquez last won the day on April 9 2011

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About Erik Marquez

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  1. There are not, i have to change fuel contaminated oil on bikes every month, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Honda, Suzuki No there is not. The issue is almost always owner induced, be it petcock left on prime ( or manual valve left in on position), or not regularly replacing the fuel needle seat O ring a rubber part known to be damaged by ethanol contaminated....ahhh, I mean blended fuel. Its just a fact of life...ethanol blended fuel damages motorcycle fuel systems. Its such a problem, many of the OEM's are offering carbs at rock bottom prices knowing that owners are going to have problems. In example, one of our training bikes has a complete Mikuni carb that costs me $198 brand new... Just 4 parts damaged by ethanol blended fuel, vacuum piston valve, coast valve, choke plunger, needle seat O ring bought as individual parts costs me $225
  2. User started a new thread.
  3. The head needs to be checked as well, clearly the valves were contacting the piston. I would not reuse that head without it going to the machine shop for a rebuild. After that, its a complete tear down and build. That rod is missing a lot of bearing materiel, and its likely in every bearing... The soft bearing materiel gets impacted in bearing race and cones and does not flush out commonly. Every roller bearing is suspect until flushed and checked for clean rotation..if in doubt, replace. If you remove a bearing, replace it. Some case bearings are a blind install and all but impossible to flush completely... you will waste more time and cleaner trying the the cost of a replacement bearing
  4. I had to machine off some of the OD from my OTC adapter. The 10mm hose in my Snap On compression tester fit no problem, so I remove the valve and use it now.
  5. Ive never seen or heard of an air tight motor, I don't think its even possible. Sounding more like a set up or gauge issue. Perhaps a quick release issue, the check ball not opening? Hook up the tester, attach the cylinder hose but not screwed into cylinder....just sitting there on pressure side air coming out the cylinder hose end?
  6. ok cool, than all is well. That leak down tester works just fine as long as you have the right adapter for it to that motor..I had to modify one to get it to fit.. 90 psi in on left gauge, right should be 78.3 PSI (13% leakage) or more up to 87.3 PSI (3% leakage) I doubt you will be as low as 3%, and would hope its not as high as 13-20% but might be
  7. I would not suggest trying to turn a motor over by hand at the flywheel nut with a cylinder pressurized at 90 psi. there is no need to an any case, TDC mark lined up, valves closed, its at TDC
  8. Does not sound like a leak down tester..... to answer your question, no, zero leakage is not possible. 90 psi on the supply side and something less on the cylinder side, the difference expressed in a percentage is the result.. Then observing where that air is leaking is to assist in deciding where to look next
  9. You will know for sure after doing them
  10. Perhaps But what you said is “Check the dipstick. Oil is low and smells like gas” Which implied something more than “the oil was still on the dipstick” In any case Oil a bit low, no not catastrophic or likely the direct issue. Oil with gas in it.... that’s an issue. If a lot of gas was in it, you might as well have been running water for all the lubricant gas diluted oil provides.... but again cart before the horse. You need to diagnose what is actually wrong first
  11. Early KTM parts. The guard blades are still available, but last time I checked the holders for them were out of production. Someone with a 3d printer and knows how to use it could produce them though... Looks like the pics were lost in one of the site server updates
  12. Yes they are KTM fork guards, the Cycla plate was a stand alone version. But yes, they did make a combo plate guard version as well...not what you see on my bike though.
  13. LOL, well yes, I suppose that's true. Same as if you install a small thermonuclear bomb in the case, no mater the crank used, its going to vaporize> Now that we have that point cleared up....
  14. On a daily rider that will rack up miles ....well daily,,, Id not start the build plan with the stoker crank.. Its just a function of physics, the increased piston speed with he stroker crank will cause more wear for the same hours on a non storker crank assuming the same rpm range is used on both motors. If you never see the top third of the RPM range, and will use the TQ of the stroker build (build not just a crank, so cams, timed accordingly, carb) I would say you will see an close to equal service life to the same build with standard crank ...but its all just a guess based on my experiences of a lot of motors,. No two riders are the same and different builds will result in different outcomes. So again, if a rider asked about building a motor for daily use, commuting ect, id start with suggesting a stock stroke crank, then go from there if they wanted the stroker... All of that is getting ahead of the game as you dont have a complete understanding if what went wrong with current motor.
  15. No bypass passage that I recall... My assumption is as the coolant pump is not a positive displacement type, so no issue with coolant flow being stopped. Static coolant in motor heats quickly, T stat opens, flow as normal happens in minutes.