Erik Marquez

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Erik Marquez last won the day on April 9 2011

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About Erik Marquez

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  1. OEM parts used on an E without the decomp installed 26, 27, 28 from the first pic 4, 8, 9 from the second pic If you make your own plug, dont forget to plug the hole in front that normally retains the factory plug or shaft
  2. .004" is 0.1016 MM, that means they are technically in spec on the Intake side. You can do nothing and check in again in a few months....or shim them if you wish. .2mm is 0.008" so again, your in spec for Ex valves as well, same advice... Unless your already having the cams out for another reason, Id go ride it as is, check again in a few months.
  3. Like any motor, some of these DRZ motors (vales as thats what we are talking about) go 10, 20, 30k miles.. And though type of use, maintenance and environment used in, some last 3k miles
  4. So only the Suzuki DRZ motor ever needs a valve replaced? Let me introduce you to the company known as Honda, and their CRF line up And as bad as replacing valves on the DRZ is ever 10 years or so, could be worse ...The rider could have a 2009 KLR650 and have to play with his doohickey Or an Old Honda XR and worn out countershaft splines, or......well you get the idea
  5. Spare head to be reworked on your time line and $$$ availability and having it as a spare is an awesome idea.. Otherwise your in for a 10~15 business day down time with shipping and lead time at the shop. After you swap the refurbished head on and confirm all is good, you can sell the used (but usable with valve work) head to recoup some $$$, folks need them after having a valve fail, or oil issues and cams seize.
  6. 1st and foremost you need to confirm what the current clearances are (if you double checked that and i missed it, please post again what they are.) If they are zero clearance, you can stop now and just have the head done..Shipping now might get you a ride or two. If they are less than .1mm Intake, .2mm Exhaust, but not closed up, its worth a shot at shimming, and then check them again in 25 hours or so... If they are tighter then you left them, time for the head to get done. True, no standard size shim, but too thin and you risk the bucket touching the valve spring top and ..depressing it will allow the valve lock to come out. the bucket has a "dimple" in the center that contact the shim, as such you can go as thin a shim as to be flat or flush with the spring top, but no smaller. Cant say what min size shim that would be, as the valve stem above the locks can very in length.
  7. OEM washers for head bolts are steel, not aluminum... I would recommend using the OEM steel washers, make sure you install them flat side down to the head.
  8. Letting the air out of the tires will lower the bike as well, and is equally a bad idea as removing all shock spring preload to lower the bike....Yes it "works" and if you don’t care how the bike rides, and lower seat height is your ONLY concern... hey, go for it. To the new rider considering this as an option. Don’t be surprised when it bottoms over any small bump and G out, causing a loss of control at worst, or traction issues at best.. When you suffer sub frame damage and or shock damage because the spring can no longer do its job of supporting rider and bike weight. Don’t be surprised when the bottom out bumper denigrates in short order, and you have to pay a rebuild fee to have it replaced. As the bumper can only be replaced with a full disassembly. Lowering links and a stiffer rear spring will work OK for mild use....street to fire road at moderate speed kind of thing.
  9. Do you want best or easiest? The two are not the same. The Best is to internally lower the forks and shocks , Valve and spring them at the same time. The easiest is based on perception.... but most would say installing lowering links and raising the stanchions in the forks...... I would also add...thats a terrible way to lower the bike
  10. By chance do you have a picture? Does it look like this ?
  11. I don't believe your mistaken... I've handled DRZ CDI's from all over the world, never seen one different
  12. That retainer is installed backwards, thats why its rubbing. Should be installed curve out like this pic
  13. as pointed out... that is an attempted fix pre preventive fix attempt at a leaking welsh plug
  14. As always Noble is dead on. On a case I had apart anyway that had damaged drain bolt threads.. I used a thread repair solid bushing (I use Time sert) and then used a carbide burr to form the drain hole in the bushing, replicating the OEM design. Not really advisable if the motor is together as metal debris go everywhere.
  15. Now do the research on the normal inconstancy in paper filters. Yes while they CAN filter down to XX microns that same filter WILL allow larger particle though because the media has inconsistent "holes". One of the benefits of a quality SS filter is the constancy in which it can filter. You ever seen an airplane pull over to the brake down lane? Of course not..... take a guess on what type of filter medial is most prevalent in their oil filtration systems.