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About donny662

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  1. MindBlower, the same logic about looking but not seeing applies to mirrors as well. Also, in the concave mirror that gives you such a wide field of view, the things you're looking at are "smaller than they appear," or let's just say that they are "small." I hear it gets harder to see small things when you get older, too Just to be clear, I'm advocating for the head turn to see things beside you, not behind you.
  2. That's the first time I've ever heard it even implied that using mirrors alone could be better than a shoulder/head check. In my car, with my three mirrors, I can follow a passing car from my rear view mirror to the side view mirror and then to my peripheral vision without looking any further than the side view mirror. I still do a head check whenever changing lanes. Motorcycles, multiple lanes, and speeding motorists means I can still miss something. If you can't spare the moments for a head check, you shouldn't be changing lanes; you should give youself more room in front of you. I used one left mirror on my motorcycle for a few years. I've not really thought of them as "side view mirrors" because I can't get a good view beside me without loosing the view behind me. I stop at intersections at an angle than gives me a good view of the cars behind me in my lane. I added the second mirror because it helps when riding in a group when I'm in the left lane position to see the rider behind me in the right lane position. I still do head checks
  3. donny662

    Sm tops out too soon...

    The IX is the iridium tip version.
  4. donny662

    Is 18000 miles a lot for a DRZ400SM?

    Mine has 29,000 miles with stock engine and exhaust.
  5. The BMW X Challenge and X Country are as off-road capable as any of the Japanese 650s, and the BMWs get 60mpg+, which is better than the Japanese 650s and the DRZ400. Although, actually saving money overall (saving more in gas than you put into the purchase and maintenance) is dubious for any motorcycle purchase, even with the 250s.
  6. Yes, renting a car is a pain, but I like to put big purchases of vacation equipment into perspective. For instance, when looking at $30,000 RVs, I think of that as 300 nights at hotels, so I'd have to be living out of the RV for a couple of months per year before I'd consider buying one. I think mine is one of the higher mileage DRZs around, but almost all of my miles are on the road, I don't run it very hard, and I change oil every 1000-2000 miles. Although, when vehicles are used as little as most dual sports are, sitting for months or years on end can do just as much if not more damage than being a daily driver. I've read about a couple 50,000+ mile DRZs on this board. I'm expecting I'll need to do a top end rebuild sometime between 30 and 50 thousand miles. Most multi-cylider road bikes that are popular for touring have examples over 100,000 miles. The thing about bikes is that many people don't run them often enough, and they die from lack of use and abuse. I was thinking that, if you only end up camping a couple of weeks a year with one or two weekends thrown in, there wouldn't be enough opportunity for you to get much use from the bike. But, you will have more time to use the bike than I assumed.
  7. I agree. I dislike haggling. edit: You can get most of the advantages you mentioned by buying used from a dealer, but the selection isn't as good as it is through private parties.
  8. I would be very interested to see those numbers that you came up with. It won't help us give you meaningful advice, and it won't help someone in a similar situation make an informed decision if you keep those numbers to yourself.
  9. Like I said, you don't need our permission to do what you want. You're not a child, and I am not your mother or father. But, I won't lie to you to help you rationalize the decision to yourself or others based on ignorance and questionable accounting. “When we ask for advice, we are usually looking for an accomplice.” - Marquis de Lagrange (or Saul Bellow or someone else, there are many conflicting sources) edit: fixed dyslexic word swap
  10. If you sell your truck at the top end of the price scale you quoted ($3990 is what I saw, call it 4k), if you can get a WRX at 6k well below KBB value of 9k jg83 quoted, if that WRX at the bottom of the price scale doesn't need any initial work, if you drive 15,000 miles a year (you never actually said how many miles you expect to be driving) saving you $450 a year on gas as jg83 calculated for you, if you don't buy a trailer, if you don't take out an interest bearing loan to pay for this or use credit cards because it wiped out your savings, and if insurance and maintenace of the WRX is the same as it would be for your current F150, it will still take you 4-and-a-half years before you will start saving money ( [$6000 - $4000] / $450 per year = 4.444 years), and you will have added 15,000 miles per year * 4.444 years = 66,666 miles to the WRX. To save a ton of money (call it $2000), it will take another 4-and-a-half years and 66,666 miles. By then, you will have nine years and 133,332 miles in this car. If all the stars and planets align, I guess you could save money.
  11. I see used DRZs listed for $2000-3500 near me. If you can save $2000 by getting a used one, do it. How often are you going to use this motorcycle? Are you RVing every weekend or for more than 2 weeks out of the year? I bought my '05 SM for $3500 four years ago with 6000 miles on the clock. It's up to 29,000 miles now. If I were to sell it, I would probably list it for $3000 (even though the SM usually lists for bit more than the S, I might have to go lower because of the mileage). If you're only going to put maybe 1000 miles on it per year, I don't think a new bike would be worth it, considering the dollars per mile. How many car rentals would $5745 pay for? You could also buy a nice, used single-cylinder BMW for that price. The other thing you were worried about is weight. What if it turns out that the DRZ doesn't haul well on the hitch carrier? A used bike can be relisted for the same price you paid. You'll take a bigger hit trying to sell a new bike.
  12. Your first post made it sound like you were doing this to save money. Several posters have shown you the numbers that say you won't save money. If you really want a WRX, that's fine, get one. You're an adult. You don't need anyone's permission (except maybe your parents', if you still want them to pay insurance, and the bank's, if you get a loan). Buy the WRX and say, "I wanted a new vehicle. The WRX is fun to drive. I like the look of it. It cost me some money to switch vehicles, but I think it's worth it." You will be lying to yourself and others if you buy the WRX and say, "I bought the WRX to save money. It was a good decision that has put me in a stronger financial position."
  13. Do you want to know the smartest move, or do you want a bunch of people on the internet to validate a stupid decision? Try this calculator. Put the price of the new (to you) vehicle and the mpg rating of the new vehicle in there. Put in the sale price you expect from you pickup and its mpg rating. For the situation where you'd keep your truck, put a zero in for the value of your pickup. Put in the number of miles you expect to be driving a month and the price of gas you want to use as your estimate. It will then calculate how much money you would save per month by driving the new vehicle instead of the old one. (You don't even need to put in the price of the new vehicle, if you're only looking to see how much money you would save per month. The sale prices are only to calculate how many months it would take to pay for the new vehicle in gas savings.) I looked up a 2011 WRX, and its estimated mpg is 25 on the highway. A number for a manual 2WD 2001 F-150 I found was 19mpg on the highway. One summer, I had a 60 mile, one way commute to work. That meant I was driving 600 miles per week, which is 2,400 miles per month (four weeks). If I had changed from a 19mpg vehicle to a 25mpg vehicle, that would still only save me $121 per month with gas at $4/gal. (Luckily, I was actually driving a 1999 Olds Eighty-Eight and averaged almost 30mpg ) Do you want to know the smart decision? Sell the F-150, and buy a comparable year economy Honda Civic or Ford Focus and a trailer for your dirt bike. Those cars can handle "rough" country roads. You'll probably have plenty of neighbors with similar vehicles. Selling the F-150 and spending more money on a Suburu WRX will not be a smart financial decision. It will be hard to justify keeping the F-150 and adding another car or even a street motorcycle to the stable. Yes, when you do the math, it's still hard to save money by buying a motorcycle while keeping your car/truck; you have to drive a lot of miles per day, you have to ride the motorcycle every day (in the rain, in the heat, when you're hungover, etc.), and you have to find cheap, long lasting tires.
  14. If mpg is a concern, the best you can consider in the >400cc range is any of the single-cylinder BMW 650 series. The BMW will often get around 60mpg. My DRZ400 gets between 50 and 60 mpg when cruising at 50-65mph. From what I've read, the Japanese 650 singles and the LC4 get worse mpg than my DRZ400. The BMW is also a bit smoother than my DRZ400, but I've never ridden and LC4 or Japanese 650. I think the BMW G650Xcountry would fit what you describe best. Light (about the same weight as the XR650L and DR650, slightly heavier than the DRZ400), best-in-class fuel economy, smooth (as smooth as you can expect with a single cylinder), 17/19" wheels (has a good selection of street tires for commuting and the track and has a better selection of dual sport tires for the 19" front wheel than a 17" supermoto front wheel), long maintenance intervals (you can do most of the work yourself, if you do your research (f650.com) and have a Torx screwdriver/socket set ), and has plenty of power. The BMW F or G650GS would also work and are more common and have wind protection, but they're heavier than the Xcountry. The Xchallenge would be good, too, but I think 17/19" wheels will fit your intended use better than 18/21" wheels. The DRZ400 is also good. It has almost as much power as the Japanese 650s (more if you mod the DRZ and ignore the XR650R) though less torque. I know it has more vibration than the BMW 650, but I've ridden it around Lake Superior and down to the Tail of the Dragon with part of the Blue Ridge Parkway thrown in. Mine has >26,000 miles, and I've been able to do all of the maintenance myself.
  15. The LC4 640-690 is supposed to be a long maintenance interval, dual-sport motor that should be about as simple to work on as any other water-cooled dual sport single cylinder. The RFS motors in the 250-530cc range, have little oil capacity and require valve clearance checks more often than the LC4s. The only question is, does the LC4 have any reliability issues that can't be solved? For instance, the KLR has the doohickey that can be fixed and the DRZ400 needs Loktite on some bolts, but that fixes the problems so they aren't likely to come back. On the other hand, the KLX300 has a weak kick-start gear that gets replaced with another weak kick-start gear, and there are many street bikes that suffer regulator/rectifier or stator issues that keep coming back. To save yourself $1000, the occasional (possibly never-gonna-happen) supermoto track day can be done on 18/21" wheels with Avon Distanzia or Bridgestone street tires. You could look at the DRZ400S for a lighter, more off-road capable Japanese dual-sport. Or, you could look at the BMW F650GS (single cylinder), G650Xcountry, G650Xchallenge, or G650GS for a more comfortable, reliable, fuel injected, low maintenace, and probably longer lasting motor; although, maintenace might be more expensive if you have the dealer do it.