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e.myers

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About e.myers

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    South Carolina

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  1. Thanks for the replies and info. Looks like I'm gonna go with etrack on the walls allowing for the possibility of bike boots down the road. Need to get this done. Pulling the trigger!
  2. Trying to determine if the bike boots that clamp to the front tire of bikes are for me. Never used one. Getting ready to purchase an enclosed trailer and originally planned on putting bikes front tires up against side wall e-track and strapping down with bikes steering locked and back end swung up against the other side of the trailer. Started thinking about bike boots as an option however. Problem is, I think that the boots need to be some distance from the wall in order for the lever to work. How much space? I'm thinking I still want a setup similar to described above so the boots would be somewhere between 30 and 45 degrees off of perpendicular from the side wall. Anyone know how much clearance the boot would need to be from the wall to get operation of the lever? I've sketched this out and I'm guessing 6"..... problem is if it needs to be that far off the wall then I can't get as many bikes in the trailer as with the pulling them up against the etrack. Another thing that has me concerned about the bike boots is that since the bikes are sideways across the trailer is hard braking potentially going to rip the boots out of the floor? I can't guarantee that I'm gonna get the anchor bolts in a stud. Just seems a little sketchy too me intuitively about not having the boots in line with the trailer. Anyone have experience with this? What are the downsides to the boots? Anyone know? Any ideas as to how to set this up? Looking for trick ways to deal with either the e-track or the boots. Need something to mount to the etrack to position front tire and also need a method for fastening down the rear tire with either setup. Any problem with pulling bikes up tight to a side trailer wall up against hat channel studs w/ 3/8" plywood and etrack at bearing point of tires? Anyone seen a setup where the etrack was more at the level of the handlebars so that the suspension wasn't loaded? I was talking with someone who had seen a setup like this that looked good. Also tied the rear tire to etrack on the wall at that level. Any help?
  3. e.myers

    KX 65 suspension & Brakes on KLX?

    I have a KX 65 that I'm thinking of selling but was wondering if I could use the suspension etc on my sons klx? Any links to mods that might make sense?
  4. e.myers

    epoxy repair chain guides....

    Yes it's the grooves and I understand that's normal. Yes, it's through to the swingarm and besides having to tighten chains all the time, I'm also cutting grooves into my swingarm not to mention wearing out chains. Front sprocket is stock. I'm telling everyone again, it's DEFINITELY a material issue. Thanks.
  5. e.myers

    epoxy repair chain guides....

    Wow, a lot of replies. Here's the deal. It's a 50. I agree with all the replies, but unfortunately, it's definitely a material issue. I've been on alot of various bikes (big & 50's) and understand the whole wear part thing and yeah, it shouldn't be wearing out this fast but it's one of those 50 things that you kind of have to deal with. All brands have their probs, this is a prob on the brand we ride. If I can get this worked out then I'm back happy again. I'll look into TM also. In the meantime is there any particular type of epoxy to look for? I'm familiar with JB weld but don't think it hardens to the right consistency (plastiky?). Any other recommendations?
  6. I'm having a big problem with a top chain guide wearing out every weekend of riding. Wondering if there is a particular type of epoxy that I could "repair" the guides with (basically fill in the two grooves that the chain creates) that would be of a harder material more similar to a more durable type chain guide (delrin maybe?) Yeah, I know the guides are not that expensive, but I'm getting really tired of changing them all the time. Looking for tips on a brand of epoxy that might be suitable. Short of that, if I could get someone to machine one for me, what would I ask them to make it out of?
  7. WRGreg- Thanks for the clarification.
  8. e.myers

    Dirty two stroke pipe.... symptoms?

    Anybody else? I know there is some wave theory going on inside the expansion chamber, just don't have a handle on how much that could get screwed up by a bunch of soft (damping?) gunk in there.
  9. Thanks guys for all the suggestions. There's an interesting one over on the general form that involves hooking a cable to a drill and letting the drill beat it out. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=710420
  10. Wow. A LOT of good info here. So, will my el-cheapo propane tourch work or do I need something like oxy acetalyene or map gas or something else? wr450f gregg- When you're doing your method with the cable, are you moving the cable in and out of the pipe or do you just butt the drill up to the end of the conduit and let it run. Am I remember/reading right that the cable is the full length of the pipe? Or, does it have to be short so that the END of the cable is what's beating up the carbon. Or is it kind of like a snake for a drain that gets all "tangled" up in the pipe down the full length of the pipe and cable. Interesting stuff.
  11. I have a pipe with a lot of build up inside. Anyone have any tricks to cleaning it out?
  12. So, how do you clean the inside of a pipe?
  13. Has anyone had any experience with pipes on bikes that had been run rich that had a lot of spooge build up in the pipe? I sucked up a lot of sand in a bike and trashed the motor. In the process, I think a lot of crap got coated in the pipe (sand/premix type stuff). Anyway, I'm wondering what could potentially happen to performance and whether it could make jetting that normally should be lean, appear to be too rich. Could it cause a bog? Just wondering because I've been chasing a bog on a bike with very little success. Just for grins and giggles, I decided to change the pipe and silencer. Bike bog didn't magically go away but it definitely got better. So, now I'm looking back at making my jetting richer (rather than the leaner direction I was going because bike seemed to bog more as it warmed up). After I put the all but new pipe on, the bike had that "ring" again I forgot that I was missing. So, just curious what everyones experience is with dirty pipes.
  14. minibikedad- Thanks for the additional info. Just out of curiousity, if you're angling your rear tire up against the wall, how much of a difference in the grand scheme of things would a 6 foot wide trailer make? I imagine it would make the the bikes take up more length. Sounds like your bikes are almost completely sideways..... correct? Guess that gives you a lot more room at the back of the trailer. If I were to angle the bikes but leave say, an 18" walk space, the bikes are gonna move around a lot? If I make the decision to anchor the back tires down, how much space would you say I'm going to lose at the back of the trailer (but I'll gain some at front..... correct? I'm sure there's a logical reason why you made the decision to crawl over bikes vs create a walkway and anchor bikes down at the rear. What was the trade off that made up your mind that crawling over the bikes made most sense? Space at the back of the trailer or not having to tie the back ends down or what? So how far is your first bike back from the front corner? What I'm getting at is, is there enough room for a bench across the front.... say 2'-0" deep? Also, when you're crawling over your bikes to get to the front or back, why are you generally doing this.... something come loose, forget to turn off gas etc? Just trying to get a handle on if the 6-0 height is realistic for me.
  15. Thanks everyone. How do the bike shoes (type with the levers so you don't use straps) work up against the wall? I was thinking they needed some space to move the lever back and forth. Minibikedad- Man you've got a crew there. Sounds like based on what you're saying, 14 foot with additional vnose would be plenty. How far back from the front corner does your first bike start? When you angle the bikes, are they angled the max they can be (almost touching other wall), or do you leave some room down the side for a walk space? coktm- Any pics of the rack you fabricated? Sounds interesting. OK. Think dual axle probably best as you suggest. See questions about walk space in response above. Madmud- In your opinion would a 7 wide give you anything additional as far as flexibility, ease of loading etc? Maybe it could work for me with a 6x14 since you say the 5 would be tight in a 12'. Are any of the bikes actually "in" the v part of the trailer or is that area used for storage only? How far back from the v does the 1st bike start? Any pics of your shoes installed in your system? Please see question about walk space/angle above. Anyone have any more thoughts on the 6' vs 6'6 tall trailer? Really want to hear from people who "love" & or "hate" their 6' tall trailers (have or had). Thanks.
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