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eshanks

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About eshanks

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    Massachusetts

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  1. how did that drz swap out go? did it work as planned? any rear adjustments? what r your clickers set at?
  2. not so much at cold, but when i am turning around on the trail at an idle if lean to the right it seems to flood out and stall. As long as i lean left or stay straight up no problems. no other stalls, running, start-up or idle issues. I pulled the carb and cleaned it up, made sure the overflows were free of obstruction and float was set correctly...all looked good. guess i should do it again. ideas???
  3. seat the jets. stock pilot screw is 1 3/4 out. warm engine up, turn idle down, from 1 3/4 turn out, turn screw slowly in and out. when you find the two points where the idle starts to slow set the pilot in middle. re-adjust idle. if its more than two turns out or less than 1 1/2 in then you need to change your jetting size. But, most importantly get yourself a manual and read it so your familiar.
  4. what did it smell like? iv'e seen pictures of those power valves that look like there full of resin.
  5. hey i would be interested in your light and rear fender if i can get em on my 96 rm. want to throw a plate on it to connect trails.
  6. The easy way by allan carr is frickn nuts....works miracles no joke!!
  7. thanks tribal, let her warm up for a bit and the clutch loosened up just enough to drop into first without a stall or a wheelie to my arse...couple laps around the house and it was working real nice. we will see how it goes from here.
  8. thanks for replying mark...bike is new to me. previous owner had replaced the clutch. then the bike sat and sat and sat. I brought it home and clutch would not disengage. pulled the cover off. all the plates were not seperating. pulled the plates wiped them down with clean rag and then oiled them with honda transmission oil. put them back in. tightened the springs just snug (no torque wrench...if anything on the loose side cuz of poor previous poor seperation). actuated clutch and plates seperated uniformally throughout basket. but still significant drag. pulled stator cover off and confirmed that clutch lever is fully turning actuator. what else is left? pushrod or plates are too old and too cold?
  9. New clutch basket, discs and friction plates....and clutch is not fully disengaging. I have read alot of threads describing this similar problem and have read alot of threads that have multiple theories and suggestions, BUT i have NOT read any threads that have said, "this was what I did and it solved the problem". One guy wrote, "Swap out your discs (metal and friction) and springs, and install a kit for a KX250." He claimed it was the only sure fire move. ANy experience fellas?
  10. well i am onto the clutch, again another 1st time adventure...plates are like sticking/dragging. broke it down and appears to be a newer clutch as the previous owner stated. basket and center are not grooved and spin freely when opened up. friction plates look like have no where and plates look perfect. when i first pulled the clutch wit the clutch cover off only the first couple plates were seperating. therefore pulled apart cleaned a bit and rubbed some transmission oil on em and put them back in. reassembled and before putting the cover on i pulled the clutch and the plates appeared to more uniformly seperate nicely. HOWEVER, there seemed to be still to much friction in there as the clutch in and out didnt really want to rotate freely from on another. back tire wanted to drag with no pressure on it, so I leaned on seat and worked the bike back and forth with clutch and pulled in trying to warm the parts and oil up which seemed to be making the clutch disengage better. put the case back on. Its about 30 degree F here and using heavy trans oil so i hoped for the best. wife called and had to go back in the house so i didnt get to really warm things up. back outside this am and clutch is not doing to much disengaging. u think a ride might get loosened up or is there a faulty part in there. i didnt go past the main lock nut cuz i dont have a clutch holder. clutch cable is operating correctly from the handle down to the release lever. i didnt know that the pushrod even came out???but it appears is does know that i am looking closer at the schematic. the push piece looks new. any definite ideas or red flags coming to mind. thanks!!! but to answer your question....after getting the carb squared away and putting a small weld on the kick starter guide it kicked over and idled great in two kicks in 30 degree wether. just couldnt go to far without the clutch. havnt ridden a two stroke in a while so a little nervous to pop it in first and gas it with no clutch
  11. needle valve was not sitting correcty, little bend of the tang was all it took. thanks guys.
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