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ept250rider

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About ept250rider

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    Texas
  1. Wanting a second opinion on what my plug looks like after a day of riding some 2nd gear low to mid trail riding with mid throttle chop/kill. Bike seems to run okay (had to put a tuner to get rid of the notorious tpi stutter) and of course this isn't a brand new plug chop. I can't tell if that looks okay or is on the lean side. Thoughts?
  2. An aftermarket ECU that can dynamically change on the fly would probably fix this issue. The GET-ECU supposedly works wonders on these bikes. I've never had a descent more than a couple hundred feet and never experienced this issue but I've read a lot about it. The stock ECU is locked by Husqvarna for emissions regulations since they can technically be registered and street legal. I wish Husky would give you the option of an "offroad" ECU with the acknowledgement that trying to pass emissions would be an issue if you tried to legalize it.
  3. I plan on doing the 'idle screw' mod once I have the funds... which in my head is different than what ya'll keep saying by 'air screw'. To me the silver flathead screw on the left side of the throttle body is the air screw. The JD tuner really helped my issue as well. Originally I backed down fuel in the low to mid and the stutter went away... but after riding it on the trails i noticed i was down on power a bit. So after some playing around with it, i up'd my fuel a bit as well as my airscrew out an 8th of a turn and it brought the bike back to life without the stutter coming back. I pulled my spark plug and it was still looking a bit on the rich side but I'm okay with that. I have new plugs on the way and gonna do a 5th wide chop and a mid throttle chop and see how it looks just to make sure it's okay. This TPI stuff has me uneasy nowadays ?
  4. Yeah I wish I knew where to even begin to really troubleshoot this issue instead of tossing a tuner on it to cover up the problem. Can the ECU in it's locked state even adjust and push more fuel like that? It's hard to even say that it's a more fuel issue or a less air problem but lowering fuel delivery helped mitigate the problem. One thing I'm probably going to do is repack the exhaust and see if there is any difference. My issue was slightly present in the 1/8th throttle as well, but I just dont see how slightly opening the throttle body valve a tiny bit more at idle would help with a clearly rich fuel/air ratio issue and adusting this screw doesnt change air flow technically. All it would do is raise my idle while in at closed throttle. To be specific, I never had a bog issue with the bike in any part of the rpm range... It was more of a stuttering and blubbering anywhere between 1/8 and 5/8th throttle up to right before the power band fully kicks in and screams the bike. The power in this range is more than enough to keep my front wheel light over endless desert whoops, but once the issue developed I could hardly do even that to the point where i was doing the frustrated clutch in full throttle rev out like i had a carb lol. While full throttle in the powerband, the bike still ripped like the monster 300's are known to be.
  5. That was going to be my first attempt to fix, but after calling slavens the guy told me the idle screw mod wouldnt fix the issue and said an ECU was needed. All the idle screw does is push open the valve in the throttle body slightly to raise the idle in the same sense as slightly opening the throttle at the grip. Idle wasnt my problem, it was running funky in the 1/8 - 5/8 throttle range and never transitioning into a smooth lower to mid end power i was used to the first 20 hours the bike ran correctly. My plug was black when i pulled it last and after the tuning, it was more of a brownish color on the electrodes.
  6. So to follow up I did some calling around to get as much info as I could about this issue. My local dealers were pretty useless as they dont see very many of these bikes and thus dont get to troubleshoot them often. All they said was bring it in and they'll have a tech look at it and charge me $90 an hour. Next I called Husky motorcycles customer service and chatted with them. The guy never admitted that there is a problem with these TPI bikes but after chatting more and more I got him to mention at least 3 other people who had called in about it and what they tried to do to resolve the issue. One guy swapped out the fuel filter in his gas tank and went up in octane and blamed bad gas. The other guy had the diagnostic tool hooked up and they did an ECU reset to default it back out. The last guy did an ECU swap to fix the issue. I was able to confirm with Husky that the stock ECU in these bikes is locked due to emissions standards in europe. Lastly, I started calling a few companies that deal with these TPI bikes. All of them stated what was confirmed by Husky... the ECU is locked, and therefore the fix is to buy an aftermarket ECU and tune it. As a last ditch effort I searched youtube and found a video of a guy having the exact same problem I was having. He put a JD Jetting Power Surge 6x tuner on his bike and leaned out his bottom end to resolve the issue, so I decided to bite on that and get one of those too. I had to lean out my 1/8 - 5/8th throttle and the issue is now gone.
  7. I'm very new to these TPI bikes... but if I had to guess, your oil pump is still pumping oil into the throttle body while your descending, then when you get on it, it's a bit hesitant because the throttle body was technically pointed downwards for a period of time.. Maybe the ratio is just slightly off or the top end is a bit saturated until you gas it out a bit and burn it off? I have no clue how the ECU determines how much oil is pumped during idle though.
  8. I may be talking out of my behind but I think emissions standards and having a sort of fine line between these bikes running great and blowing up is a major reason why they are this way currently. They set them up to be as fool proof as possible out of the dealership showroom, and even messing with the idle screw, air screw or power valve can be the difference between a fun day or towing your bike off the trails cuz your engine is now toast. In my 20 years of riding dirtbikes i have never seen an idle screw be set and lock tighted into a throttle body the way they are on these TPI bikes. My 19 300 that ran perfect for 22 hours all of the sudden started running really crappy in the low to mid range. I had to drop money on a tuner and lean out those ranges in order for it to run correctly again and even with it running well, I feel uneasy about what's going on internally. Theres no resolution on why or even what changed to cause the bike to run differently... Just company after company telling me the only fix is a tuner or aftermarket ECU. Meanwhile my neighbor with the same exact bike, ridden on the same exact trails every weekend, who has 67 hours now on his, has had zero problems.
  9. My head has been wrapped around the whole TPI EFI aspect of the bike so hadnt even thought of looking at those. Will tear into it and take a look.
  10. I just hit 25 hours on my 19 te300i and I've developed the dreaded low to mid throttle 'gurgle'. My immediate thought was fuel and air filter cleaning. The ride after replacing those the bike seemed worse off than before. I backed the air screw out about a quarter turn just to see what would happen and it actually got a little better, but the gurgle was still slightly noticeable. I didnt want to keep adjusting for fear of being 20 miles away from camp and not wanting to make it worse. I've seen a few mentions of this issue across the internet of this issue with no solid resolution. I'm not willing to just drop $900 on a GET-ECU when the bike was working perfectly fine for the first 20 hours. My question is, does anybody know what the stock voltage is for the throttle position sensor? I've stumbled across a few videos of guy adjusting them on various ktm's/husky's from .58ish to .64ish and saw a mention of them having issues from water getting in/around the sensor. I have a few other options i'm going to pursue to try and pin point what is causing the issue. As of now I feel buyers remorse setting in ?
  11. Dont forget that there is a tiny in line fuel filter that needs replacing every 8 -10 hours. I just did mine at 20 hours (i completely forget because the bike is too much fun to ride) and I could see some small crud in there. Your bike should have came with 3 extra ones from the dealer.
  12. Previously I used the racetech DVS search without codes to get recommended clicker settings, but seems they've locked it down to needing their codes. Are there any other websites out there that offer something similar?
  13. Yep I've seen that first hand.... Because it's happened not only to me but almost every one i know thats run Tubliss in the desert. A few buddies of mine carry plugs and co2 cartridges out on the trails but if the inner tube is punctured their day is done.
  14. I have tried using a leaf blower but my method is using an air compressor and air gun attachment and blasting the water off everything the air can hit. I mostly aim to dry everything metal like the motor, frame, swing arm, chain and brakes and wipe off the plastics with a microfiber towel.
  15. I used to patch whenever i could. But seemed like it was a post weekend maintenance task patching tubes after a weekend of desert riding so I just made the switch to Mousse BIB's. Yes they're the combined cost of about 15 inner tubes but havent had a flat since 2015 and have only needed to take the tire off to replace the tires so they're well worth the investment for me. Tubliss was a waste of money for me. One thorn/puncture and you're riding the rest of the time with 0psi and you're still reliant on a sealant to assist. Only upside is the inner bladder tube thing keeps your tires bead on the rim but when you dont have any air pressure it kind of sucks. They might be better for places that arent desert but i'll never go back to them again unless i start racing motocross which is highly unlikely haha.
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