knuckleduster271

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About knuckleduster271

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  1. The bearings are inside each case half- ive never needed to use a splitter when tearing down a 5 valve- order a new pin,rod and beari g then find a decent machine shop to assemble and true
  2. I use a small dab of silicone grease- the same stuff you lube injector seals with during assembly. Never had a problem sealing
  3. If you want to do it quick and easy get an adjustable ac pump cover. The pump timing has to be set first as imo 90% of the time you get the bog its because the ac pump squirts and doesnt clear the slide. The carb on the 07-11 bikes isnt the funnest thing to remove so it saves alot of work. I have an 07 that starts like a fuel injected bike with no bog at any rpm range-
  4. A poorly jetted carb can and will cause this- a good friend of mi e actually broke his engine cases because of it- I had an 03 with a hi comp piston that would kick back if the air / fuel screw wasnt properly adjusted to the temperature
  5. Ive ran them on my wr, they are nice for the money
  6. I put a vertex hi comp in my 07 wr- Figured if there good enough for ktm to use them as their oem supplier they must be of decent quality- Had a wiseco in an old bike i owned with no problems- that was back when wiseco made pistons in the good ol usa, ive heard their quality has went way down since they moved operations overseas.
  7. Thinking about selling the motard wheels, they work great- wife has had no interest in riding the bike (been on it twice since built). I own a 450 motard so this one seldom gets ridden. I put a set of oem wheels with knobbies on it and am currently using it as a dirtbike.
  8. I took the throttle tube off of mine and wire wheeled the grip off.. but you have to be careful doing it this way for obvious reasons. I swear i think they put them on with JB Weld or something
  9. Subd
  10. Mixxer did a head for me, it gave a noticable power increase across the board- the power curve came on earlier and held alot longer on the dyno than my first dyno run when the bike was mostly stock. One thing i didnt care for on the mixxer port job was that he flush cut the valve guides- i would have rather left them the factory length personally even if it would have cost me a little on the dyno. I spoke with ron hamp about flush cutting guides- he said it wasnt anything to be too worried about- that it does take away some reliability bit doubtful id have any problems with it- said he doesn't cut them as it doesn't change the flow numbers at all. So, my suggestion- if you use mixxer specify that you want your guides left stock...
  11. Ive seen teeth on the kicker gears do this if the jetting isn't correct. Does it ever backfire when kicking it over?
  12. South Dakota title that sumbitch if PA gives you any greif
  13. Have you attempted to adjust the valves?
  14. I bought this key off ebay, i think it was a generic version of the ttr key- cost about $10 iirc. It has the same pins as the oem on/off button, i just removed the plastic harness from it and installed the switch wires into the OEM harness. For the mount i did some creative bending of the oem on/off bracket then cut a cover out of black plastic.
  15. Id like to know about these as well