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Z1RK

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About Z1RK

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    TT Member

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    Alberta
  1. Z1RK

    Picked up my new 250fx and..

    I expect you would get some likes. I'm a huge supporter of technique. That's why I go to the endurocross track almost every week to work on skills. However, ASSuming that someone doesn't have clutch control just because of the comments here makes you, well... You've probably heard what ASSume makes out of you... As for being labeled a 'cry baby' or a 'pansy' at least some of us can actually observer the difference between smooth throttle response or not. Maybe your 2017 is different than my 2015 or maybe you just don't observe such subtleties. ... And Now, back to the previous conversation. ... For anyone with the FX that finds the clutch tiring in technical stuff like roots and endurocross I found a good trick that might work. I moved the clutch lever way inward on the bar so I can get my index finger right on the end of the lever. That way I have three fingers on the bar and enough leverage to make it a one finger clutch. It took some fiddling but made it way easier.
  2. Z1RK

    Picked up my new 250fx and..

    I went with the Enduro Engineering skid plate. It has protection in that area but also allows air flow and water flow for easy washing. I don't have to remove the skid plate when washing.
  3. Z1RK

    Picked up my new 250fx and..

    That remark makes you sound like an A$$ My clutch control is Very good! Just because the snatchy throttle can be accommodated for by technique doeesn't mean it has to be. A smoother throttle response is still better.
  4. Z1RK

    GPS with logging

    I missed mentioning that the Galileo iPhone app also works without cell phone coverage (much like Locus for Android). I usually use it on my old iPhone 4s because I don't care if it gets dunked. Pretty good for a $6 app.
  5. Z1RK

    Picked up my new 250fx and..

    The snatchy throttle off idle gets better after the bike breaks in and after you ride it a bit and the bike is FULLY warmed up. I also got the Gytr tuner and detuned the off idle response a bit. The bike really works like a hot damn in the tight stuff though. Where I ride it's all super tight with roots, rocks, and logs (anyone without bark busters will have a broken hand in no time). As for the suspension, I'm 180 without gear, 205 all geared up. The springs are a bit soft for me. At 189 the will be too soft for you. The valving is great, but you'll probably need at least the next rate of shock spring. Congrats on the purchase. It's an awesome woods weapon and pretty damn torquey. It'll climb stuff I have no business making it up and it handles endurocross way better than I do.
  6. Z1RK

    GPS with logging

    I've been using Galileo Pro with my iPhone. It's cheap and works great. My wife caries a Garmin 64 (handheld unit) and we almost always make use of my phone because it does a better job. - Record tracks - Imports tracks - Exports tracks - Tracks can be organized into folders or areas
  7. Old mines and associated equipment. An International Scout. An old abandoned cat. A tug boat. The Detroit Diesel engine was still protected under the hatch. If you put a new battery in it and changed the oil I bet it would run. There is probably still a tug boat on a rail car launch assembly on the shore of Kinbasket lake B.C. A 1977 Euclid dump truck with a 335hp Cumins and 7208 hrs on the meter. Lots of broken hand guards, foot pegs, shifters, levers, number plates, fenders, etc. A carefully placed line of pointy rocks as though they were going to cause a bike with a foot of suspension travel a problem!?! A dead rattle baby snake. A live rattle snake that I ran over thinking it was a stick. Once I made sure it wasn’t latched onto the bike I turned around and went back. There it was on the side of the trail, half broken, looking really pissed off! I didn’t get closer.
  8. Z1RK

    Coolant Overflow

    If you're just getting back into riding and you're riding tight technical woods I would keep it. I put one on all my woods bikes because otherwise I loose coolant.
  9. Z1RK

    Not Starting-Backfire

    If you've replaced/double-checked everything and it still doesn't work it could be week valve springs. On my 2013 CRF250R it started getting harder and harder to start and running badly. Eventually it wouldn't start at all with only the occasional pop. After a loooong time troubleshooting and replacing almost everything it turned out to be weak valve springs. Runs great now. Good luck.
  10. Z1RK

    Valve clearance adjustment

    If one of my valves needs re-shimmed twice after initial break in or if my leak down test shows leaky valves, then I pull the head and do the valves. I'm sure others have other mantras. Basically modern valves are quite hard and durable. They'll stay for a long time after break in but once they start 'moving' that means that the hard coating is worn through and the valve and/or seat are starting to noticeable wear. At that point they start wearing much faster.
  11. Z1RK

    Valve clearance adjustment

    You only have one tight one. Replace it and keep a watch out for others moving. The spec is narrow enough on those that it's tough to be in the middle. Being at the end of the spec is fine. Just don't be out of it. As for compression test; You need to do a leak down test. Find someone with a leak down tester or buy one from harbour freight. Leak down tests are an excellent diagnostic tool. (requires a compressor)
  12. Z1RK

    Show off your homemade bike stands!

    No handy pictures but we've got two home made wood stands with casters on them. Really handy for moving bikes around. We also screwed a cheap small moving dolly under one of our aluminum stands for the same reason. We can have three bikes on stands and shuffle them around the shop with ease.
  13. Z1RK

    New Rider New Bike, I have questions lol

    Didn't see anyone answer this part so here's my approach. As has been stated, the correct service manual for your year and model is a must for all the detailed information you will need. The manuals are usually a bit over the top on rebuild intervals. They often say to replace the piston every 15-20hrs. In reality many of us can go longer. Here's the guidelines that I go by for a four stroke. Pistons can often go 100+ hours. The signs that the piston needs replaced are smoking after fully warmed up or loss of oil during operation (check your oil every ride). Once one of these things happen you can verify with a leak down test. Don't re-ring the piston, replace it. While you're in there replace the timing chain. They're cheap and you don't want a failure. The cylinder may need touched up. It will likely need a light honing. I take my cylinder to a local guy that specializes in cylinders and have him measure and hone as required. Cheap and easy. Valves can usually go longer. Valves tell you when they're grumpy by needing adjusting. After the initial run in of a new engine the valves might need re-shimmed. After that they usually stay put for a long time. When they start to get tighter it means the hardened coating is wearing. Once they start moving they tend to move quickly. I always note when I measure the valves and if I change the shim. As soon as I have to shim a valve twice I plan for a rebuild on the head. I always laugh at the ad for a bike that says "Valves have just been shimmed". That translates to "Needs new valves!". Despite what some 2-stroke people will say, rebuilding a four stroke top end isn't very difficult. When I replace the valves I replace all of them, get the seats touched up by someone that does valve seat cutting. Your service manual will say what the correct spring pressure spec. is so you know if you need to replace the valve springs. On a Honda I would replace the valve springs regardless. I always replace the keepers as well as cheap insurance. With a new bike it's easier because you know the hours from the start. With a used bike you don't know. You can go by what the seller told you the hours were and watch things carefully. Put an hours meter on and start taking maintenance agains the hours on the meter. Once you rebuild yourself you will know for sure. Some examples: 03 YZ450f - smoked and burt oil when I got it, put in new piston, timing chain, valves. 68 hours of hard supermoto track usage later it still runs like a top. 13 CRF250R - estimated 70 hours when I got it. Gave it new piston, valves and springs at about 130 hours. 30 hours later it pulls great. 15 YZ250FX - bought last year with 0 hours. Now it has over 60 hours. I expect it will want a new piston by the end of this year. Valves have never moved.
  14. Z1RK

    2008 crf250 doing my head in!!

    I ran a 20 minute Motard race on my KX80 with the choke on. Did much better in the second heat once I figured that out.
  15. Z1RK

    2008 crf250 doing my head in!!

    Sounds similar to my 2013 CRF250R. It was down for a year before I sorted it out. I had checked everything (top end apart too). I mean everything several times. From one ride to the next it went from a little grumpy starting to a real B!tch that then wouldn't even run well once finally pull started. A few things I checked first: - valve clearance - valve timing - intake restriction - exhaust restriction - continuity on all electrical wires - all electrical components (replaced many) - lead down test - replaced piston and rings - replaced valves - replaced cam shaft in case the cam gear slipped. - pressure tested and checked spray pattern of fuel injector (in your case carb) - every single troubleshooting test in the service manual I had to buy a new YZ250FX so I could keep racing last season. Finally someone pointed me in the right direction. Apparently honda valve springs are good but a little soft so they don't rob too much power. As they get older they get softer and then begin to float. The Honda valves are fine. The issue was week valve springs that needed replacing. If yours haven't been replaced then you may want to try it. Starts and runs great now. After all that I kept it as a dedicated supermoto instead of selling it. Good luck.
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