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About Z1RK

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  1. If you've replaced/double-checked everything and it still doesn't work it could be week valve springs. On my 2013 CRF250R it started getting harder and harder to start and running badly. Eventually it wouldn't start at all with only the occasional pop. After a loooong time troubleshooting and replacing almost everything it turned out to be weak valve springs. Runs great now. Good luck.
  2. If one of my valves needs re-shimmed twice after initial break in or if my leak down test shows leaky valves, then I pull the head and do the valves. I'm sure others have other mantras. Basically modern valves are quite hard and durable. They'll stay for a long time after break in but once they start 'moving' that means that the hard coating is worn through and the valve and/or seat are starting to noticeable wear. At that point they start wearing much faster.
  3. You only have one tight one. Replace it and keep a watch out for others moving. The spec is narrow enough on those that it's tough to be in the middle. Being at the end of the spec is fine. Just don't be out of it. As for compression test; You need to do a leak down test. Find someone with a leak down tester or buy one from harbour freight. Leak down tests are an excellent diagnostic tool. (requires a compressor)
  4. No handy pictures but we've got two home made wood stands with casters on them. Really handy for moving bikes around. We also screwed a cheap small moving dolly under one of our aluminum stands for the same reason. We can have three bikes on stands and shuffle them around the shop with ease.
  5. Didn't see anyone answer this part so here's my approach. As has been stated, the correct service manual for your year and model is a must for all the detailed information you will need. The manuals are usually a bit over the top on rebuild intervals. They often say to replace the piston every 15-20hrs. In reality many of us can go longer. Here's the guidelines that I go by for a four stroke. Pistons can often go 100+ hours. The signs that the piston needs replaced are smoking after fully warmed up or loss of oil during operation (check your oil every ride). Once one of these things happen you can verify with a leak down test. Don't re-ring the piston, replace it. While you're in there replace the timing chain. They're cheap and you don't want a failure. The cylinder may need touched up. It will likely need a light honing. I take my cylinder to a local guy that specializes in cylinders and have him measure and hone as required. Cheap and easy. Valves can usually go longer. Valves tell you when they're grumpy by needing adjusting. After the initial run in of a new engine the valves might need re-shimmed. After that they usually stay put for a long time. When they start to get tighter it means the hardened coating is wearing. Once they start moving they tend to move quickly. I always note when I measure the valves and if I change the shim. As soon as I have to shim a valve twice I plan for a rebuild on the head. I always laugh at the ad for a bike that says "Valves have just been shimmed". That translates to "Needs new valves!". Despite what some 2-stroke people will say, rebuilding a four stroke top end isn't very difficult. When I replace the valves I replace all of them, get the seats touched up by someone that does valve seat cutting. Your service manual will say what the correct spring pressure spec. is so you know if you need to replace the valve springs. On a Honda I would replace the valve springs regardless. I always replace the keepers as well as cheap insurance. With a new bike it's easier because you know the hours from the start. With a used bike you don't know. You can go by what the seller told you the hours were and watch things carefully. Put an hours meter on and start taking maintenance agains the hours on the meter. Once you rebuild yourself you will know for sure. Some examples: 03 YZ450f - smoked and burt oil when I got it, put in new piston, timing chain, valves. 68 hours of hard supermoto track usage later it still runs like a top. 13 CRF250R - estimated 70 hours when I got it. Gave it new piston, valves and springs at about 130 hours. 30 hours later it pulls great. 15 YZ250FX - bought last year with 0 hours. Now it has over 60 hours. I expect it will want a new piston by the end of this year. Valves have never moved.
  6. I ran a 20 minute Motard race on my KX80 with the choke on. Did much better in the second heat once I figured that out.
  7. Sounds similar to my 2013 CRF250R. It was down for a year before I sorted it out. I had checked everything (top end apart too). I mean everything several times. From one ride to the next it went from a little grumpy starting to a real B!tch that then wouldn't even run well once finally pull started. A few things I checked first: - valve clearance - valve timing - intake restriction - exhaust restriction - continuity on all electrical wires - all electrical components (replaced many) - lead down test - replaced piston and rings - replaced valves - replaced cam shaft in case the cam gear slipped. - pressure tested and checked spray pattern of fuel injector (in your case carb) - every single troubleshooting test in the service manual I had to buy a new YZ250FX so I could keep racing last season. Finally someone pointed me in the right direction. Apparently honda valve springs are good but a little soft so they don't rob too much power. As they get older they get softer and then begin to float. The Honda valves are fine. The issue was week valve springs that needed replacing. If yours haven't been replaced then you may want to try it. Starts and runs great now. After all that I kept it as a dedicated supermoto instead of selling it. Good luck.
  8. I have two sets of wheels on my KLR. One has D606s, the other has either 50/50 crap, or D607s. I notice a difference with the 606s on. Actually I notice many differences, but I think they're harder to push and take more power. That matches experiences on Mountain bikes too. Ride with full knobbies and then with MTB slicks and you'll know the difference pretty quick. I think you'll notice the difference on the WR too. I've only run street tires on my WRX, so I can't comment specifically.
  9. JJM - Stop being such a P.I.T.A Everyone on the planet knows your opinion by now. Heck, there are tribes of the upper Amazon as yet untouched by man that have heard your ranting. Give it a rest already. Let's get back to some useful ideas not just whining. If you insist on whining more, then take a look at this page: http://www.lifeaftertheoilcrash.net/ You see, before all riding is prohibited due to Liberal noise, land use whiners that never use the habitat they're whining about, we'll run out of what lubes the world anyway. Oh, BTW, we may run out of fresh water first anyway, so put a sock in it. You're being a bit loud! My sensitive ears protest and you're endangering the rare albino Canukistani-African-hybrid squirrels! (not that anyone has actually captured one and therefore proved their existence, but we're pretty sure they're out there and that they're really really sensitive, so we better be really really quite, just in case.)
  10. I'm very very very seriously considering it. I would really like to save the weight. Not big on any extra noise though. Not that I would be that noisy around here (WRX on the streets after all) but my commute to work goes through three frequent radar traps and they just added a new one. Now, I don't tend to deliberately speed around, but I don't really need to give them any extra reason to pull me over. Now, if someone would come out with something that weighed less than stock, wasn't quite so closed up, I'd spend a bit more on it. Instead I'll probably end up getting the Q4. At least I'll get to use it a bit before all our fun is outlawed no matter what we do anyway.
  11. I keep stumbling across threads where one person keeps ranting on and on and on about the same thing. No real discussion. No real suggestions. No real value being added. I'm starting to wonder if it's a thumper talk thing that attracts these people or what. :headscratch:
  12. Interesting observation mwakey. It's definitely a consideration if/when I convince myself to get rid of the factory boat anchor. In my experience with exhausts, less back pressure tends to harm the bottom end while helping the top end and visa-versa. Could it be that the DBDawg is less restrictive than the stock SA? I tried mine without the spark arrestor once on the street and didn't notice a power difference, but many claim they feel more power without it. (personally I wouldn't run without some kind of SA) The safety lanyard is also a good idea. I once put a new stinger exhaust on my Baja bug. Within 15 miles it was gone. Must have shot out the first time I really matted it. Hope know one was in the way. After that I always made a point of securing any exhaust insert very, very, well.
  13. I don't think anyone actually fessed up to that one. I can assure you that there are, in fact, several. Some of them ride motorcycles. Some of them drive diesel pick-ups with aftermarket chips and pipes. That's pretty common here in Cow-town. Some folks want high powered bikes, some want high powered pick-ups. To each his own I guess. Luckily I don't tend to get that question because I stink at wheelies. I think the two most common questions I get are: "How much did that cost?" to which I reply "Too much" and "How fast does it go?" to which I reply "Faster than you might think" That one usually makes them stop and think while the light changes and I can ride away and end the conversation.
  14. That's really cool man!
  15. Pretty much what you were doing. And that's what I was trying to point out. You don't drive on a public road? Well, I guess there are a few who don't. Darn uncommon though. That was actually meant as an aside. It was a completely separate thought directed to earlier posters. The amusement here is the single mindedness with which you are discussing your point of view. I merely brought up alternative points of view and broadened the view out a bit for comparison. It's you that actually chose to turn it into an argument. But, guess what. You WIN!!!! You can have the argument all by yourself because in order to have an argument there has to be conflicting points of few of similar strengths. Since I don't have this very strong emotional attachment to these points as you obviously do, I can't very well argue about it, only question. Enjoy! Good point. And to do my part I will back out of this conversation. I made my points regarding the original post. Longview I empathize with your frustration.