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About KD5PFF

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    Robotics, backpacking, motorcycles, rock climbing etc.
  1. To remove one baffle from you bike you can pull the spark arrestor off and then cut the screen off. You will notice that on the end of the screen there is a metal cap that actually fits into a whole in the last baffle. By cutting the screen and cap off you basically open up another port in your exhaust. The problem with doing this is that the screen is actually your spark arrestor. Depending on where you ride, removing it could be a problem. I happened to have some similar screen so I was able to fix it, but if you don’t you can likely just reuse the original screen. You can do this mod with a simple hack saw but if you want to reattach the spark arrestor you are going to need a welder and grinder. The sound you get is great though. It’s not annoyingly loud like some aftermarket pipes and it’s not too quite either. It really gives the bike a nice throaty sound (or as much of one as you can get from a thumper). For an hour or so it beats the heck out of a few hundred dollar exhaust. Keep in mind if you shim the “sparky” it will be impossible to control where the exhaust leaks. Which means that you will likely burn the legs of a passenger and get yucky nastys all over your bike. I have put over 3000 miles on my mod and so far so good.
  2. I am confused about the color of spark plugs… I have some black and red deposits or discolorations on my plug and they are there no matter what RPM I kill the engine at. I don’t know a whole lot about this but from what I have read I haven’t seen to much information about red plugs. What colors are other 230l owners seeing? The only mod I have made the engine/exhaust system is that I shortened the spark arrestor that is used to plug the last baffle. (It’s easy to do and it gives the bike a nice throaty sound without the cost or extreme noise of the other options) I have noticed a drop in my MPG since I bought the bike. I used to get around 80 but now I get 65. I don’t know if this correlates with my mod or just my getting used the bike and riding it much harder and faster now than I did when I was new on it. Probably the latter, it’s just hard to not cruise at 50 every where on this thing. Any help or ideas?
  3. Nice job. I got tired of looking around for one so I just made one. I went to home depot and got a 0.1” thick piece of polycarbonate “lexan” and then cut it to have the shape I wanted. Then to form the curve I simply put the piece in a vice and compressed it from the sides, causing it to bend. When I had the bend where I wanted it I heated it up from both sides with heat gun. It worked really well. The key is to bend it more than you want because it will relax. To mount it I just put a 90 degree twist in a piece of steel that I could bolt into the front faring. I have since disassembled it so that I could sand blast (the mounts) it, paint it and rivet it together but house remodeling has eaten up more time that I would like. Mine is shorter than the one in your pics which means the wind hits my helmet, but it’s off my chest which takes a lot of pressure off when driving down the highway. And believe it or not the thin plastic didn’t deform much at all. A lot of people think that this bike isn’t capable of much but the truth is that all bikes had small engines back in the day and if your ok with not having a rocket ship for a bike than this thing is perfect even for long highway trips. It won’t be as comfortable as a BMW but it’s still a dirt bike, and for that reason I would recommend that anyone who has a windshield on this bike should remove it before they go out to ride in the dirt. I have made several more cosmetic changes to the bike and once I get some free time Ill post a link to the pics. It’s almost spring… Finish all your bike work now because the time to ride is approaching.
  4. I put a hardline tach on my bike and it seems to work pretty well. The update speed isn’t super fast but it’s good enough. My question is with the idle speed. The bike is supposed to idle around 1400 RPM however my tack says it’s around 2400 RPM. I have adjusted the idle speed since the last time the dealer tuned it up, but even if I try to lower it the bike just dies before it gets close to 1400. Any thoughts? Id like to use it to compare the 14t sprocket to the stock 13t. Other than possibly getting a true reading it has worked to give me a rough idea of the difference in the two.
  5. I installed the 14t gear about a week ago. It only took about 30 minutes, and it would have been much faster if I had a center stand. I found that a typical CRF230F gear for a ’08 does work just fine. Everyone at the shops I went to said that it wouldn’t work but it was only $20 so I took the chance, and you all were right, no problems. I can’t decide how I like the actual operation of the bike now though. The main goal was to drop the RPM when I travel at highway speeds, which worked. The bike seems to stay below 7 grand all the way up to 75 with no performance changes. However at lower speeds I have to rev the bike a lot higher to get the same performance out of it. This is to be expected because I increased the sprocket size, but I don’t like the idea of working the bike harder when I’m cruising around town. I’m going to compare my bike to my friend’s stock bike in a few weeks to see if there really is a difference. Ill post more info on that later.
  6. I haven’t ridden in that area on the bike yet, but Ive been up there a few times. Ill bet there is some good riding up that way. I just added some acerbis hand guards and I ordered the 14t sprocket. Hopefully it will fit! Maybe this winter or this spring I’ll change the jets. Im not unhappy with the stock performance so unless it really made a huge difference im not sure I would want to do to much to it. It sucks that the rear racks are on back order. I tried to order one then I got tired of waiting and I made my own. Yeah I hear that a lot of people don’t’ like the stock blinkers. I really can’t decide. Something in me just likes the fact that they are oversized and goofy. Not sure though maybe ill swap them out later. Anyone know of a wind shield that could be made to fit on these bikes? I think it would be nice for the highway. Im going to try and form some polycarbonate sheets, but im not sure that will turn out as good as I would like….
  7. Bobbyward - Where do you live? The nice thing about eastern Oklahoma is that there are so many good areas to ride around here. If you can get out by a lake your good. Yeah I noticed the rubber on mine wasn’t attached that well. Ill order an F sprocket and give it a go. I wouldn’t say the Honda was built for long rides but I don’t find it to be very uncomfortable. However in comparison to my friend’s cruisers it’s night and day. Their saddles are like lazy boys. If you do try to ride if for a while I recommend setting the passenger pegs down, laying low and putting your feet up on them. It makes for another riding position to mix things up. What do you think about running the engine at highway speeds for extended periods? I have mixed feelings. I didn’t buy the bike to be nice to it. Also I figure that the engine seems self limited as far as RPM so it really shouldn’t be a problem. Right?
  8. What’s the word on the 14t front sprocket? I’ve read that some people like it and some don’t. Are we sure that the F sprocket will fit the L? Also where’s the best place to order one? I figure it its cheap why not try it?! A concern I have is that the stock sprocket has the rubber piece that I’m guessing prevents chain slap, the others don’t. Is this bad?
  9. Bobbyward – I venture out of Tulsa all the time! The last ride I did was the Talamina drive. That was a 500 mile round trip by the time we were done. After that trip, I can’t stand reading posts from people that have never ridden an L and claim that it isn’t capable or can’t be driven on the road! Ok, my rant is over. I usually ride with a few guys, one also rides an L and the others ride typical cruisers. Yeah next time we plan to head out Ill give you some heads up. It’s always fun to ride with more people. I have been thinking about riding down to broken bow, Oklahoma to an area that has old logging roads. I go backpacking out there in December every year and I think it would be awesome to take the bikes in on those roads. I’m not yet sure if that’s legal, but I am looking into it.
  10. JJHack – I use a super cheap harbor freight multi-meter. It is identical to a fluke as far as I can tell and it was around $20. Best thing I’ve bought in a while! I have a BS in ME, and I am an electronic/Robotic junkie. This is my first motorcycle so I don’t know much about them, but electronics and current draw don’t change much . As far a baja lights go, I would look into some small surefire type flashlights. You could rig a mount for the bike and they will light up anything you want. There are also cheaper options for those types of lights. Your right though, it will be tricky to if you want to wire into the bikes power, however you could always stick with separate batteries. That’s the kind of thing you don’t need to run all the time, just when you’re running from the deer! What about a few 5 watt LEDs that are modulated… Not sure what the duty cycle would have to be so that you wouldn’t notice, but that always saves power.
  11. Man that’s useless. Just pm me if you cant understand that… SORRY!
  12. Ok, the formatting on my table of values didn’t work at all… sorry about that… ill try again… Item Calculated Actual Headlight 4.6/4.2 5.3/4.6 Turn signals 1.76 each 3.6 Brake light 2.1 .1 Tail light .5 Meter light .26 Neutral ind. .26 .14 High Beam ind .13 Turn ind. .26
  13. The stock alternator provides about 9 amps at 13 volts when the engine is running at about 5000 RPM, according to the service manual. Below is a list of device usage, measured in amps that I calculated from the user manual and then as I measured directly off my bikes battery (not running). I didn’t separate out all the wiring so the headlight measurement includes the tail light and the meter lights. The difference in the brake and tail lights is due to the led edge2 taillight and brake kit vs. the stock tail and brake light. Item Calculated Actual Headlight 4.6/4.2 5.3/4.6 Turn signals 1.76 each 3.6 Brake light 2.1 .1 Tail light .5 Meter light .26 Neutral ind. .26 .14 High Beam ind .13 Turn ind. .26 If you turned on your blinker, high beam, put the bike in neutral and had the brakes on while rev’ing it at 5 grand you would be pulling about 10 amps (stock) and about 9 amps measured. The stock battery according to the service manual is a 6 amp hour. Simply by shaving around 2 amps off the stock tail light and brake light you can safely consume that power through a 12v accessory jack. If you were to switch to LED blinkers you could then pull more current. I’m willing to bet that you could safely draw up to 5 amps off the system without hurting anything. I am using a 5 amp fuse on my accessory outlet. Sorry for the long rant, ill wrap it up… I wouldn’t worry about trying to find a larger alternator… And as long as the engine is running you won’t drain the battery. However if you have all this stuff on with the engine off you have just under and hour before will have to push start your bike. Please double check my calculations and numbers... and feel free to ask any questions. Do not hold me responsible for any of this… This is my personal thoughts and what I did/do. Anything you do base on what I say, is done at your own risk
  14. SDD74 – I live in Tulsa… I also purchased my edge2 from wheeling cycle supply… It is supposed to be in today, so ill get it bolted up tonight and put some pics online. Jesus freak – Were you asking if you will need to swap out stators? Very nice pic by the way. Im ready to get mine bolted on… A side note about multipurpose cell phone etc mounts… they are only good if you secure your devices too them... I found this out the hard way this morning on my cold commute to work… I guess at lunch I need to go check the road for the remnants of my phone. It’s a good thing I got the full insurance for it… I forgot to mention that I also added a 12v accessory jack to the bike. It sits up under the rear wheel fender. I will have to change its location once I swap out the taillight but I was pretty impressed with how noise free our bikes are. I haven’t done the math, but from my rough estimate I think we can easily pull an amp off the battery and generator without causing any problems. And that is more than enough to charge a gps, cell phone, radio etc.
  15. Here are some pics of the mount with the bag on it. As I do more stuff to the bike ill post the pics here. (Ignore the broken tail piece… that’s what happens when you let someone who’s never ridden, ride!) My edge 2 is in the mail… Currently I have; Added a hardline tach (not sure of accuracy yet…) Added a GPS RAM mount Added a general purpose mount for radios, cell phones etc. I am also going to add a 14T front sprocket just for street use I am going to change out the front fender for a black one, and I am adding an edge 2 tail light kit. I modified the exhaust to open up the last baffle. If you’ve ever taken the end cap off then you’ve seen the spark arrestor that plugs up the bottom hole of the last baffle. By removing the spark arrestor you allow the exhaust to flow through both holes then out the tail pipe. It looks stock but sounds a bit more throaty (not sure how to describe that sound) but it’s not too loud at all. I like the stock quite sound but I just wanted a touch more. By adding a screen back over the inside tail pipe I now still have a spark arrestor. Tada. I’m not sure that this will do anything to its performance but I’m happy the way it is, for now. 3500 miles + 10/70/20 dirt/highway/street. I love this thing! http://picasaweb.google.com/alex.jech/CRF230LMods#