milligsc

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About milligsc

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    Pennsylvania
  1. My son is 115 lbs with gear on and riding an 05 250R. We ride motocross and he's doing some pretty big jumps (a 90' table top). I have the compression all the way out and the rebound in 4 clicks more than standard setting and the bike still bounces when he lands. Did the spring rate claculators and came up with : Race tech .38 front 4.6 rear Gnarlymoto on ebay: .42 front 4.8 rear Can I do this witholut revalving and what spring rate sounds right? Any info appreciated.
  2. Can I use my 250R hot cam shim kit for 150R?
  3. Here's what I used, complete kit with springs etc.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CRF250R-KIBBLEWHITE-INTAKE-VALVE-SPRING-KIT-CRF-250-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53db2233c6QQitemZ360158737350QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
  4. Dont be cheap and rebuild it right or you will be sorry when I pass you on the track like a little girl.
  5. My son crashed on a pretty big jump (he landed on me) and the bars snapped off just outside the center support on throttle side. The bar looked like a big knife sticking up from the track! Is this normal for these aluminum bars to shear off like this?
  6. My son is about 130 with gear on, on an 05 250R now. Springs a bit stiff for him. When I did for seals the forks had 2 notch marks (I think this is aftermarket). Can anyone recommend a strategy for a light rider? Does the back need addressed also? Any info appreciated.
  7. I bought a book on ebay (factory svc manual ) for about $30. Ive done an 05 , 06 and o4. I would say get some ziplock bags and mark them, make sure to stuff a rag in the crank area to keep parts out, keep the cam chain tight with a small bungee or wire (can fall off bottom gear and get bolow guide and you have to tame cover and rotor off to get back on), I did the stainless valves on all 3 without cutting seats (book gives the specs on angles and all were good), you can compress the valves by hand (I cut a notch in both sides of an old socket the size of valve spring face, don't put valve seals on while dry fitting (they don't come off easily once installed without damage), replace cam chain (about $25) if stretched and verify cam chain tensioner works. If tensioner breaks the chain can slip and bend valves, break pistons etc. Not a bad job if you take your time.
  8. Gonna be installing a used set in friends bike (I went SS but my old ones are almost new) was wondering which valve wears more on intake valves.
  9. Hes intermediate I would say, we ride track (breezewood pa). I changed the oil in his shocks and the spring has 2 tick marks. Book says this = aftermarket but not rate. I suspect the spring is a higher rate one. I am going to look for a lighter spring for him. With clickers all the way out its still to hard for him. I will see if the oil change helped but it appeared to be the right amounts and viscosity on the drain procedure. Thanks for info.
  10. Can anyone recommend settings for my 13 yr old son? He's 120# with gear on on a stock 05. Any info appreciated.
  11. Thanks for the info guys. Did the work last night and it was pretty easy. I seoerated the tubes and removed the damper, 6.8 oz oil in damper and 12.8 oz oil in tube. I have been riding for a year with almost no oil in the tube and the oil overall was really nasty and had abrasives in it (dirt and other crud) Really excited to see how it rides on the track now. Also, I didn't use any special tools for this. Loosened fork cap and damper cap while in the tripples with channel locks, 13 MM wrench to hold the damper rod out to take lock nut off and made a seal driver from a piece of 2" electrocal conduit coupler.
  12. Hey guys, replacing my seals tonight. Confused on oil qty for this. Book indicates 6 oz halfway through procedure then 12.8 in the table at end of chapter. Can anyone clarify please? I'm not disassembling damper, just doing the seals but my oil was real dirty so I would like to get out as much old oil as possible.
  13. I have an o4 with 40 hrs and 05 with 20 hrs with KW stainless and spring kit and no movement on either bike so far. I did not have the seats cut and did the rebuild on my bench. Others will disagree but if the seats are in spec according to the book I would not cut them. Your call on that. I suspect the stainless will also be more forgiving to dirt also. I clean my filter regularly but I'm sure the bike still eats some dirt on dusty tracks.
  14. +3 on the breather. I had same problem. Forgot to attach hose. Check the valve cover seal just to be sure.
  15. Ok, I'll answer my own question here. Yes you can replace the left side balancer bearing without splitting case. You remove ignition and clutch covers. Remove balancer, unbolt left side balancer bearing, remove left side bearing seal, remove left balancer bearing snap ring and tap the bearing out from the right side. Here's where it can be tough, the first couple of taps broke chips of the bearing race off. This allowed me to pick the rollers out and I ground an oval piece of steel to fit behind bearing just big enough to fit in the race and still push on the sides. Heated the area with heat gun, sprayed pb blaster on the hot surfaces (it sucks it in like solder when hot) and it popped right out with 2 taps. I'm sure there's a puller that would do this easier but I'm tired of buying tools I use once. I think if I would have used the heat/ blaster first I could have just used a punch to tap it out (dealer here tells me thats how he does it).