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About JRBennett

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  1. Damn it, really bummed here and not sure what to do... The story: traded my snowmobile for this bike a week before I raced King of the Motos on it and a few weeks ago a deep sand race did her in. The trans has false neutral between 3rd, 4th, 5th, during wide open acceleration. So, I pulled the motor and got the cases split. The dogs are all rounded along with the female parts that catch them. Shift forks look like they have contacted gears as well. Its about $1200 to fix trans plus a top end and or crank I was going to do just because. The bike isn't worth a lot but hard to justify going in the hole with it but turns way better than yz, crf, KTM, and has the volts at the head tube for GPS, plus its paid for. Who machines worn trans gears? The Suzy dealer told me to have someone machine a slight angle on the dogs and females to hold it in gear better. Any info is appreciated! John
  2. Colorado

    Me too, is there snow at Woodland Park? I work on hwy 67 west of Sedalia, and been seeing bikes going up to Rampart, I would think its dry with ice in the shade.... there's too maky people at Ramp tho
  3. Seems dumb, because if you trash a gear then it goes through the motor? Not a fan, my Crf was separate. So you use Engine oil then, and don't worry about trans specific?
  4. I've searched and read and can't find the answer I need. I don't have a manual either, nobody has one in town, Im ordering one but trying to race on Sunday... Does the transmission and engine share the same oil? If they are separate, where the hell is the drain plug for the engine oil? The fill for the trans is on the stator cover, correct? What I did today: drained 675cc/ml from 12mm trans plug at the bottom. Changed the filter, very little oil came from there. Then I put a 50/50 mix of red Silkolene gear oil and synthetic 10w30, 675cc/ml in the fill on the stator cover. I can see a little red on the dipstick after starting briefly so I assume the motor and trans share the same oil, which seems like a bad design... Or maybe I am being a dipstick? need input Thank you John
  5. Yeah but its $800+ Did you find a good place to buy from? You wouldnt happen to have yours you would want to sell me aye?
  6. Thanks Grey, I like the idea of bump starting it so the Z is out. I am pretty gentle on clutches. I am curious if I buy the EXP and want to upgrade it later to get the rest of the clutch assembly, that would be sweet, just to keep the initial cost blow down... Thank you for the input. -John
  7. Do you ride with the EXP model?
  8. I'm about to buy one. It looks like a good deal it that you use the stock clutch assembly. NEED SOME INPUT FROM SOMEONE WHO HAS ONE IN THEIR BIKE, WONDERING ABOUT LONG-GEVITY OF THE UNIT AND CLUTCH. I race A class, and just got the bike. Setting it up for Enduro / Hare Scramble type racing, Desert and Motocross riding as well. I had a ZStartPro in a '03 RM250 2stroke and loved it. I have always hated the engine braking and jumping with engine braking, stalling in corners or tight stuff, about 450 bikes (I've had a few). Thanks John
  9. Colorado

    CORE park is awesome, is it going to be a "desert" race or will there be slow stuff too? I hope i'll get a chance to dust off my 40 tooth for the rear
  10. Colorado

    I understand, and this is a great goal for the series. I am in! Sorry I did not make my point clear: In that I meant I would have liked a HARDER, LONGER, FASTER course.... I would have been ok with all of the big jumps on the track and then a bit MORE xc. I think all I am asking for is a longer course. I mean, a course where it wasn't short enough to race without a camelbak, which I saw alot of guys doing....lol Thanks for putting on another fun race. -John p.s. I can't wait for a pinned out desert race in Pueblo!
  11. Colorado

    I'm glad everyone is ok from that lighting. As an enduro/ desert racer, I did not expect a motocross race at all. I think it would have been a better track if we could have ripped 5+ miles down that sand wash on the south side of the hwy, and then back that distance. I hope this series doesn't turn into a motocross series.... Just my $0.02 -John
  12. Ok. I removed 100ml last night and hopefully that helps. I'm racing sunday, then I'll probly have a friend revalve them. I did the 'ol plastic business card on the fork seals... I ride everything; moto, trails, offroad mix, and when you go fast it all feels the same, like crap. I mean sticky on the first bump or first 4" on a jump landing, but after the shock starts traveling it works good, its just the initial bump that starts the travel is where it feels like a rock...
  13. So correct me if I'm wrong: 130mm (from the top) = Softer feel, maybe fix my sticky issue 110mm (from the top) = more oil and cause the "sticky" feel, maybe a bit stiffer I have had the bike a few months and raced 3 times. I didn't like how the forks were working. Before the last ride I unscrewed the top cap and drained out what I could which I measured at ~250ml/cc hoping there was 10w oil in there. Note: the fork seals were leaking which I cleaned and stopped leaking, so figured it lost some oil too. I refilled them with 5w. Put in 350ml/cc per manual specs. I rode the mx track last weekend and that is where I'm at, they feel sticky because theres too much oil in them, whick makes sence. I think I may be dealing with a shim stack issue also. With the new oil in there I couldn't see it from the top, seems with 13cm from the top you could at least tilt them to the side and see the oil?
  14. Is that meaured from the top? Or how are you measuring the oil? The manual says like 360cc / ml - in that ballpark... I have measured oil from the top of the tube with the shock collapsed on other bikes, just didn't say anything in the manual about it...?