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About 79MKII

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  1. Did you have any luck fixing your idling issue? I'm having the same problem now with my '86 DR100. I can't find the float height anywhere and my manual is packed in a box from a recent move.....don't know where!
  2. OK, looks like I found it...here's a link for the earlier models with shorter VIN's. http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Suzuki_RM80#1977_RM80B Mine looks like a 1979: VIN RM80-39562 From Website: 1978 RM80C 1978 Suzuki RM80 in Yellow FRAME #: RM80-23349 ENGINE #: RM80-23635 ENGINE TYPE: 47699cc Two-stroke MODEL CODE: COLOR: Yellow Tank decals yellow with black outline Leading axle forks 1979 RM80N 1979 Suzuki RM80N FRAME #: RM80-39433 ENGINE #: RM80-39470 ENGINE TYPE: . . 79cc Two-stroke MODEL CODE: . . 469 COLOR Yellow Three tone blue tank and side covers stripes Yellow RM80 on seat 1980 RM80T 1980 Suzuki RM80T FRAME #: RM80-200010 ENGINE #: RM80-200068 ENGINE TYPE: 79cc Two-stroke MODEL CODE: 203 COLOR: Yellow Three tone blue tank stripes under Suzuki decal
  3. Has anybody had any luck finding a vin decoder for the older vins? Mine is only 10 digits long including a dash. I'm trying to verify what year it is so I'm sure to get the right parts. Thanks rm80-39XXX
  4. Very Cool! Looks great as a SM. Got a few new scuffs on the leather!
  5. The shock swap sounds very do-able. Thanks for the info on the swingarm too.
  6. I don't remember a preload adjustment being there...I'll have to check again...that would be great. I looked for a KX60 shock and couldn't find anything reasonably priced. It was only $28 per x-tender including shipping, so I thought I'd give it a try. Could definitely use a stiffer spring though and more travel would be nice too. Is the KX60 a direct swap?
  7. I mounted the shock on one bike with the warning sticker up and the other bike with the warning sticker down. I think sticker up is correct. It looks like the shock spring might hit the oil tank if mounted with the sticker down. There's definitely more clearance with the sticker mounted up. Sure is strange though that the parts diagram appears to show it the other way. I added x-tenders to both shocks and it made a pretty good difference. Not drastic, but definitely helps.
  8. Thanks for the info. I'm thinking it will probably work either way but I'd sure like to know how they come from the factory. I bought both of these used so I can't be sure which one is correct. I can't believe I haven't been able to find a picture somewhere. I'll update if I get more info....Thanks again!
  9. Quick question about the rear suspension.... I have 2 used PW80's and the shocks are mounted differently on each one. Which way does the rear shock go? With the longer end down or up? The nitrogen warner sticker on the bottom or top? I can't find a picture of this anywhere! If the parts diagram is oriented correctly, it looks like the longer end with the nitrogen warning sticker goes on the bottom (swingarm)....does that sound correct? Thanks
  10. I know what you mean! I re-threaded a 5/16" x 5" bolt last night and it went in and tightened up nicely. The bolt cost me $0.75. Thanks for the tip!
  11. I think 5/16" is correct. 8mm = .315" and 5/16" = .3125. That's only .0025" difference in diameter....only about 1 thousandth on each side of the bolt....I'm sure that will work.
  12. great, thanks for the tips. You know, you're right about metric fasteners. Nobody has longer metric bolts but the long sae bolts are everywhere...and cheap! It's not like this metric system thing is new!!
  13. I had thought about using an SAE bolt but was thinking I might re-thread the weld nut. How tough is it to rethread the bolt? I have some metric taps and dies but I've never tried that.
  14. Has anybody had to buy a replacement bolt for the footpegs? The part diagrams don't seem to show the specific bolt I need. It's the one that goes all the way through the footpeg brackets and into a weld nut on the left side. I've checked every parts diagram out there and just don't see the correct bolt.
  15. Anybody tried one of these carbs? I've been trying to find a post about them and haven't been able to get any information. They are barely more than a rebuild kit for the mikuni but do they work? I'm not real impressed with a lot of stuff out of China but I'd like to hear from someone that has tried one. Thanks