Rossi 46

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About Rossi 46

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    Northern Ireland
  1. You mentioned that you cleaned the carb with carb cleaner. Apparently carb cleaner will destroy the seal for the vacuum plate, so when you are checking the plate is on the right way round you should check the seal as well. From what I have picked up on the forum the carb should not be cleaned with carb cleaner!!
  2. OK guys a bit unsure what you are referring to here. There are 2 wires from the stator and 2 wires from the pickup that connect into the loom. There is no earth/ground connection at this point. The only earth on the system is a separate wire from the CDI box that exits the loom just beside the ignition coil and this is the only earth/ground that I know of. This wire has always been connected to the coil mounting bolt. Should there be another earth somewhere else? The engine is earthed to the frame through the various engine mountings. I have disconnected the kill switch from the loom and it has made no difference. I have also tried 2 other looms. There is no gear position switch on my engine. Mine is 2007 and the gear position switch was only introduced on the 2008 model. I have tried it with the boot connected and disconnected and it has made no difference. Its disconnected at the minute just to make it easier to remove the carb etc
  3. Two new plugs and a 1 new plug wire Dammit!!
  4. Ok latest update To answer a couple of recent suggestions. Fuel tank breather checked OK. Fuel flows well from the tank and will run through the carb if the fuel drain is opened. The engine will run for a few minutes if the fuel is turned off so the float bowl is well filled, and yes the float level has been checked. The carb has been cleaned again and all the breather hoses checked. The air inlet from the small connection on the boot has also been checked. The intake boot is currently disconnected as we are running indoors. I had thought about a broken valve spring so when I changed the camshaft I checked the valve springs for a break but they seem fine. I have now got my rewound stator back and have tried that but still no change. Diggla117 suggested that the problem when I find it will be something obvious, which is probably right. So I took the quad to a friend to have a look and see if he could come up with something that I might have missed. He has checked a few things but so far no answers. I have now got another new ignition coil and a new emulsion tube for the carb to try. The dealer suggested checking for a possible crack in the piston. We are going to miss our race tomorrow.I will collect the bike at the beginning of the week. I will then try to take a bit of video so you can hear the way it is running. I was considering taking the quad to the dyno to see if their diagnostic gear can help pinpoint whether the problem is ignition or fuel related. So far I have been unable to contact the guy to ask just what information his diagnostic equipment will give. Might be a waste of time.
  5. Yeah proper off road machine!!! Its actually my daughter who races it.
  6. Thank you for that Shawn. I just get a little frustrated when you come unto a forum looking for help, you show a picture of the flywheel with the right hand mark correctly lined up with the mark on the case and BECAUSE of this picture some guy comes on suggesting the timing might be off because the flywheel is not lined up properly. The one thing I am sure off is that my valve timing is correct as per sticky on the main page.
  7. Ok so if the mark on the casing is somewhere between the 2 marks on the flywheel then you have found TDC?
  8. Its only a few hours of running since the seats were cut to install the steel valves. When I install the valves I always fill the ports with fuel to check the valves are seating properly. The fact that the engine is easy to start would suggest the valves are still seating properly. With the standard titanium valves when the clearance has zeroed out the valves are clearly not seating properly and the engine is a bitch to start but once running will generally run OK. I had considered that the valve springs might have become weakened. I contacted the supplier of the valves and they said they have never had any problem with the springs. He offered to check the springs for the correct tension. When I changed the cam I checked the tension of the springs by pressing them down with the palm of my hand. Not very scientific I know but the springs were clearly stronger than the standard Honda springs fitted on another head. I also checked that the springs were not broken. Some time ago I spoke with one of our local guys who said he ran the steel valves with standard Honda springs and never had any problems. These engines rev to about 10500 or thereabouts and if the springs were weak you would expect it to rev up cleanly to a certain rpm and then suddenly start to run rough but you would expect this to only happen well up the rev range whereas my misfire occurs at much lower rpms. Thanks for the suggestions. Keep them coming.
  9. The engine is 2007 but with the 2002-2006 cam and decompressor setup as we had issues with the 07 system. Setting the valve timing on a CRF involves setting the engine at TDC and then making sure that the mark on the cam sprocket lines up with the arrow on the cam tower. There are 3 methods of setting the engine to TDC. The correct method according to my 04 and 07 Honda manuals is to line up the dots on the clutch side of the engine.(not the most accurate method) A second method is to put a rod through the plug hole with a dial gauge on top. The 3rd and best method according to the experts on this forum is to ignore what the manual says and line up the right timing mark on the flywheel with the cut out on the threads. (see sticky "Timing your CRF450R" by JJRace at the top of the page) You seem to be suggesting that the right hand timing mark is not the true TDC but that the true TDC is somewhere to the left of it. ("Notice the gap")?? If that is the case then just what is the right hand mark for? I am using the approved method of timing my engine according to the experts on this forum and I really don't understand why you are having a problem with that. Perhaps I don't understand what you are saying. The fact that I confirm the TDC marks on the flywheel with the rod through the plug hole merely proves that flywheel is correctly timed to the movement of the piston so no issues with the mounting of the flywheel on the crank. Looking at the timing issue from a different point of view, from what I have gathered from this forum if the timing is out by one tooth the engine will run reasonably well but will be very difficult to start. My engine starts easily so this would seem to confirm that the timing is correct. There are 18 teeth on the timing chain sprocket on the crankshaft so if the timing is off by one tooth the timing will be off by 360/18 degrees =20 crankshaft degrees. The timing marks on the flywheel are 8 degrees apart. The difference between your positioning of TDC and my setting is therefore no more than 2 to 3 degrees, a long way from the 20 degrees necessary for the timing to be off by 1 tooth. You mention that my problem is probably staring me in the face and I just can't see it. I agree entirely with that point of view and that is why I am on the forum asking for help. Someone will say did you check ................. and I will say now why did I not think of that?
  10. As I understand it the right hand mark is the TDC mark and it is this mark that should be lined up with the mark on the case, rather that the case mark being lined up BETWEEN the timing marks. That is why I always use the rod through the plug hole with a dial gauge to confirm the TDC mark on the flywheel. So far this has worked for me.
  11. Makes the Carillo or Falicon rod look cheap!!
  12. When I timed the new cam I verify TDC with a rod through the plug hole and a dial gauge to confirm the marks on the flywheel are lining up properly. This also confirms the flywheel is timed correctly. I have tried A plug from another engine and 2 brand new plugs. I have tried running the engine with and without the air filter. The quad has been running fine for the last few months since the engine was rebuilt with the steel inlet valves. The fault has just developed while the quad was sitting in the garage. Changing the flywheel is not just a 5 minute job in our case. The engine has to be raised about half an inch to get the oil drain bolt out past the frame tube. I have now sent 2 of the stators away to be tested and rewound if necessary. When they come back I will fit one of them and change the flywheel at the same time. Is it possible the original stator went faulty and has now damaged my CDI units? I spoke to the mechanic at the local dirt bike dealers and he says it is very rare to have to replace a CDI unit. They seem to be fairly reliable. Thanks for the replies guys. Keep them coming!!
  13. I have just fitted a new plug wire on the coil I have fitted at the minute. Ground is bolted to the ignition coil mounting bolts. I tried disconnecting the ground when the bike was running and it just stopped. When I open the carb drain and turn on the fuel it runs straight out. If I take the fuel hose off the carb and turn the fuel tap on it runs straight out. I have just tried another second hand stator I bought and it has made no difference.
  14. I have now tried 3 different stators, 3 different complete ignition coils, 3 different CDI units 2 new plugs and a different wiring loom, I have changed the fuel, checked the exhaust for blockages, cleaned the carb again, Tried going up a couple of sizes and down a couple of sizes on the main jet. I have now put in a brand new stage 1 Hotcam and checked the valve clearances. The timing has been checked, double checked, and triple checked and is spot on. The engine had new stainless inlet valves fitted with uprated springs a few months ago. The engine starts easily so I'm assuming there is no issues with the piston rings or valve seal. Although the electrical components I have used are not new it would be very odd for them all to suffer from the same fault. Its strange that the engine starts easily and will tick over perfectly but just won't rev without a misfire. Is it possible that the flywheel could have lost some of its magnetism? It is a genuine Honda item. I just don't know where to go from here.
  15. You will be better off with a new one at around $240 My experience with right side crankcases is that the balance shaft bearing wears the casing making the bearing a loose fit. This then leads to water pump leaks which can lead to all sorts of problems. I have bought several RHS cases but have never had a tight fitting balance shaft bearing in any of them.