• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good

About spencer2986

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. Thanks for all the replies. I will run it the way it is for a while (3rd notch) and see how it goes.
  2. I always run premium gas in mine. I try getting good gas all times. On the subject mentioned about gas milage, I get about about 150-155 miles to the tank. After reading what others saying they get I'm in disbelief. How are some people getting 80 miles before turning to reserve. Anyways, I'll stay on the 3rd clip and see how I like it. Just switched it over and took it for a little spin so I'm going to give it some time.
  3. That's pretty much how I looked at it. I use it for my main commuter when the weather is nice so I deff want it to last. It still has good throttle response but to be honest, I can deff tell a difference in the two clip positions. I don't mind the popping or even the slight surge here and there but if it is actually doing harm and a potential failure is waiting to happen, I'll simply run it on the 3rd slot position. Otherwise on the 2nd slot position, I can't shift fast enough through the gears and is much more fun to ride. Just wanted some thoughts and opinions. Thanks!
  4. 2005sm with 3x3, full Yoshi exhaust,155 main,22.5 pilot, throttle needle c-clip on 3rd notch. NE Ohio at approx 1,000 feet above sea level. Was running on the 2nd clip position but there was a surge at certain throttle positions and some popping when shifting and on decel. I will say that the bike had excellent throttle response and could really feel it in the seat when giving it throttle. Exhaust even had a "bark" to it when revving it. Changed it over to the 3rd position and could tell a difference in the throttle response (wasn't as snappy) however still rode fine with less surge and less popping. Would running it a little leaner really hurt much in the long run? I obviously want the best performance with what I have but don't want any future failures. Sure you can say just get a 39mm but that's not what I am after right now. Here is a pic of the plug while running it on the 2nd clip position.
  5. BTW, I'll try the idle suggestion you mentioned.
  6. Thanks for the reply. I just noticed the petcock to be slowly leaking on the "on" position while I had the fuel line disconnected. I already ordered a manual petcock and am going to plug the vacuum hole on the carb. I am aware I have to turn the manual petcock off after riding. Also, wouldn't be a bad idea to drain the oil in case it's contaminated. Go figure it's fresh oil with maybe 10 minutes of run time. I have heard of o-ring going bad inside the carb also. I tested the seating for the float needle by removing the carb bowl and turn on the fuel (prime position) while holding the float up to simulate the needle shutting off flow. Didn't notice any leaks. I will check the resistance for the coil like you mentioned. Thanks again!
  7. I use brake cleaner with compressed air. I have thin wire I was going to use but all the passageways I saw through. One thing I will mention as there may be light at the end of the tunnel. I had the cdi off and was going to test it on my friends drz400 but didn't make it over there. Hooked it back up. My gas tank was already off (from tinkering around with the carb last) so no vacuum line was hooked up either. Cold started it on full choke and I reved it up for the first time. It quickly died but maybe because of the little amount of gas in the carb? Anyways, I was trying to get it to rev again but couldnt get it past idle. Does this sound like possible float adjustment? Or maybe something on the electrical side that once gets a little heat, it dies. BTW, tested earlier the plug boot was 9.4 k ohms. Don't have the specs but thought the plug boot was pretty high ohms. Thanks for the help!
  8. I will do so again in the morning. Everything is clean, I can guarantee that after 4 thorough cleanings. My one friend mentioned going larger on the jets...? I don't see how that would change when it ran perfect all summer long before that. I have the 3x3 mod, Yoshi full exhaust and jets are 155 and 22.5
  9. New stator didn't help matter. Better reading for AC voltage output but that was all. Cleaner the carb once more. The oil is brand new so I dont see any gas in the oil being a problem. I'm leaning towards a cdi or maybe ignition coil problem. I will check back in if any more info is found.
  10. Maybe so. But I don't see how the AC voltage coming out of the stator cannot be an issue for being so low?
  11. Thanks again for the reply. Will see here in the next couple days when it comes in.
  12. Thanks for the response. I will check things out once stator is back in. Where you from? I'm in the Youngstown area.
  13. That was my second thought was vacuum or diaphram. Looked at both and both seemed fine. I looked for any small cracks or holes but couldn't find any. I tried looking over all the "simple" things and couldnt find anything wrong. Trust me, i didnt want to throw money away playing guessing games and buying parts just because. However, when i moved to check the stator and something wasnt right when i got a very low AC reading, this was the first problem that I can prove to be wrong. Regardless if the new stator fixes my problem or not, my old one was shot with readings I got. Thank you all who answered in this thread. So far the bike has been reliable and fun. I'll be in touch.
  14. I have it apart right now waiting for a new stator but before disassembly, I had 14.4 volts at the battery while running. It was a fresh battery with the free power mod. I will check back in once stator is replaced. Here is my understanding and reasoning of it being the stator... The excitor coil in the stator sends voltage to the cdi, then the cdi sends voltage to the other side which is the ignition coil that builds volts that is sent to the spark plug. If not enough voltage is provided from the get-go the result will be low/weak spark.
  15. Completely agree and understand where you are coming from. I did other tests after moving on from the carbs to see what I can find. As stated in one of my earlier posts, I checked AC voltage at the 3 yellow wires from the unplugged stator while the bike was at idle and wasn't even getting 1 full volt. This should be reading approx 30 AC volts at idle. There are 3 phases to testing the stator, the other 2 tests were good but not the voltage test, it was reading 0.011-.023 volts.