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elsalvadorXR6

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About elsalvadorXR6

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  1. elsalvadorXR6

    Do you smell that ?

    sorry if you thought that was intended towards you...It was a general comment that fed off nawalls post about priorities in MODDING a bike... sorry for the hijack
  2. elsalvadorXR6

    Do you smell that ?

    SUSPENSION FIRST! I love big riders who slap on a nice exhaust before even tuning their forks or adjusting for their weight...but again to each their own!
  3. elsalvadorXR6

    Do you smell that ?

    smells are almost always from weeping or a leak of some sort, even small...I always had some sort of smell on my bike...but I knew it was from rocker cover weeping... and that with 500 or so mile interval oil changes...jejeje peace
  4. elsalvadorXR6

    Still no oil to the top end !

    delo 400, rotella and most good diesel oils, actually have antifoaming properties not found on even some "motorcycle oils" again now I just report facts based on personal useage...I dont even read crap anymore as from experience now on the xr for example(or my truck) I have found that good diesel oil changed frequently performs better or the same as most overpriced and badly labeled motorcycle oil. I once tried belray 20/50 crap and it died an early death and was VERY watery...same for their fork oil, absolute overpriced crap. I look at it like this, if the oil I currently run shears less and maintains its viscocity better or longer, than the last oil I tried no matter what anybody tells me, Ill be using that oil more, and still change it frequently...I also pay attention to the manual. If you read the xr600 manual, it says to change every 500 or so miles or equivalent hours.simple...do that...not what some oil salesman tells you....they are salesmen. Its a bit longer on the xrl manual cause the xrl is less high strung, not designed to race, and is more mellow...so yeah you can extend the intervals a a bit. That is of course if you use the bike as intended. Notice the same for fork oil changes and brake fluid changes...its all dependant on how and where you ride...not what damn brand of oil you use! there is nothing more disconcerting to me than a thinned out oil, that makes engine parts rattle like hell and thinking like some its fine its $20 bucks a quart synthetic so its the best for the bike...your getting hosed and brainwashed by publicity. the key is to change frequently...those running around with oil that is 6 months old and thinking that they are fine cause its synthetic are fooling themselves, also letting oil sit is what makes it acidic, and sludgy...and those that only run around for a bit and never get the oil up to temp then store do more damage by letting condensation damage and pit bearings, form rust etc... again nothing ike an oil thread huh cheers
  5. elsalvadorXR6

    Did 1992 XR600R ever have Mikuni Flat Slide carb on them?

    goneballistic I see a 180 but I cant tell what brand that is...the mikunis have like a star m on it... usually most places send a 230 main. I used a 210, 230, and once a 250. pilot 10, 15, 17.5 or 20.
  6. elsalvadorXR6

    Did 1992 XR600R ever have Mikuni Flat Slide carb on them?

    YUP! that was the unintended benefit...a slight reduction in temps to the cam. I also used reflective tape on the frame downtube that was closest to the headers...that helped a bit too...
  7. elsalvadorXR6

    Did 1992 XR600R ever have Mikuni Flat Slide carb on them?

    the high volume oil line and all was unintended but actually helped a bit with keeping the cam and rockers helthier...the size of the inner diameter oil line was the same size as the outer diameter of the metal pipe stock...I noticed a very mild decrease in oil temps... the reason I did it was because my original ´pipe got damaged by some headers in a fall and flattened out a bit. I actually sold the bike this way and all was good goneballistic what jetting are you running btw? a little tweak here and there on the pilot does wonders to eliminate the slight bog...
  8. elsalvadorXR6

    Captain Midnight R.I.P.

    rest in peace...
  9. elsalvadorXR6

    Did 1992 XR600R ever have Mikuni Flat Slide carb on them?

    its a great value or bang for buck mod...here was mine installed on my 88 xr600. WHEN JETTED correctly it has much better throttle response and slightly better lower and midrange than the stock kehin pd8 carb...its a very simple carb to wrok on, has dual floats so it reacts better to angles and tipovers(can run a while on its side, unlike the stocker) so for racing and faster spririted riding it does great. it bogs slightly less when whacking the throttle(not completely eliminated) its also LIGHT, seems to be made of more plastic than aluminum...also there are certain parts that are hard to find... fuel overflowing is common, if youcant eliminate it by changing the float valve you need to buy the whole jet assembly that needs to be pressed into the carb most owners give up by that point and buy a pumper... your topspeed will be the same as stock with this carb however feel, MPG increases by around 20%, throttle response and ease of starting after a flood is why this makes it better than stock. THIS IS A HALFWAY POINT CARB, from stock to full blown fcr41mm...this is midrange performance. just for reference, BALLARDS, the asutralian safari guys, and most endurance riders of the early 90s almost specifically used THIS carb for their race bikes. Xrsonly later started marketing them. peace
  10. elsalvadorXR6

    Newer xr cartridge forks or usd conversion?

    I cant remeber exactly but 98-2003 showas are similiar then they change again till the present...all I know is that 2002 forks or so you dont need to do anything about a relocating bracket...you just use 2 long bolts intsead of the xr bracket which uses one long and one short bolt to attach the caliper. You also need not change the brake hose line, or even detach anything from the mc. I wish Id new when the cutoff is for the no mod brake caliper bracket swap is(I did when doing the swap)...if its 2003 then for those shopping Id search for 2000-02 forks just to be safe. Twin chamber showas off the crf/x bikes. 250x are a little more plush than the 450x. Also my forks where off the cr250r motocrosser. Like heart of darkness says, the crfx hub and axle are different...I lucked out and found an excel black wheel for a 450crfx for less than $100 then steve just bought the axle(hollow btw you save wieght), spacers, odo drive and presto all I did was install new bearings HORRI thanks for the well wishes.... Ill get back on an xr6 or any xr for that matter someday...for now Im workiing on my sailboat...new chainplates, bulkheads, paint and gelocat...yeah fun! peace ps. btw I used a cr250r axle and used the crfx spacers and odo drive...so I GUESS they are interchangeable...Im not 100% positive though. so buyer beware. jejeje
  11. elsalvadorXR6

    Newer xr cartridge forks or usd conversion?

    I did #2 basically...machine shops are cheap and good here...steel sleeve...no strength issues since you dont TURN down anything...a lot of guys go this route only ti suffer catastrophic failures, albeit on other bikes havent seen it happen on our bikes lastly if you look at my thread that horri so nicely put by searching specific model usds like showa 2002 and up twin chambers you dont even have to buy a caliper relocating bracket...can use your stock odometer just use the crfx wheel and speedo attachment,etc... you can save a lot of money...dont need to deal with custom bearings and shims...and dont "need2 fancy steering stems...again needed being the key word here lots of ways to do this anywhoo good luck to all trying them out!
  12. elsalvadorXR6

    Newer xr cartridge forks or usd conversion?

    hey tre, you can do both...this is(just sold the bike) my 88 with usds: and this before usds with "cartridge" 96 forks and rsw brace: both succesfull transformations...success depends on how and what you ride...also its the litlle details like year and fork model that can make a big difference on how expensive or not the swap turns out to be. If you would like the little details Id be gld to help by pm...I used to have a usd swap thread somewhere around here for those on a budget. but I cant find it anymore... cheers
  13. elsalvadorXR6

    What does the Air Cutoff Valve do?

    yes, a little... a good way to see if you have a bad acv, is at idle will the engine die on you if you do not have your hand on the throttle? if it does every so often and its not tight valves or other engine issues you know that you diaphragm has holes in it... its an easy cheap fix with the k and s kit on ebay. cheers
  14. elsalvadorXR6

    Cam chain timing again!

    ok so I honestly think you have no gasket... and this is the cause of your misfortune...either that or whoever the po was he used a very thin gasket and goop...this is a cheap way of upping compression btw so If you had good performance you know whats up... so I would take cylinder off...4 easy bolts, order new OEM gasket, clean surfaces, apply thin smear of hondabond or yamabon on center case seam at the back, clean and lube with engine oil the threads of the cylinder bolts and torque to 36ft lbs I beleive(check manual) that way you eliminate one possible cause of trouble btw no need to rering piston...simply dry up and clean the cylinder...apply oil to piston skirts and call it a day... cheers
  15. elsalvadorXR6

    Cam chain timing again!

    so does that mean you know it doesnt have a gasket but its never leaked before? if you know it hasnt had a gasket and your wondering why your slightly off, after 2 threads and a lot of brain scratching you have answered your own question... just sayin jejejejeje peace bro
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