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About KnightRider

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  1. KnightRider

    2017 250 XC fuel economy worries

    Hey Joe, great to hear from you again. Yes my 4th of July ride was really fun. Hope to see you up in naches soon. I guess I was lucky with the float level on all of my other 2t's. I did verify my overflow tubes were all gunked up revealing the float bowl as the culprit. Haven't had time to work out the problems but should by Saturday. Thanks for the tips. Mark
  2. KnightRider

    2017 250 XC fuel economy worries

    My dealer, in the initial setup, verified my bike had the stock jetting which, according to the manual is set up for 1000' to 2500' elevation at the temps we are seeing right now (don't have the manual in front of me at the moment). I'm not too worried of running rich on the first ride, especially for the break-In ride.
  3. KnightRider

    2017 250 XC fuel economy worries

    Just picked up a '17 and took it on a 60 mile loop at 2500 to 6000 feet in central WA. I hadn't touched the jetting from stock, just was really looking forward to the introductory ride. Bike is super awesome and finally a fork I can live with in the trees but also on a track (without spending $1200 right out of the gate). My main problem is I ran out of fuel on the 2.6 gallon tank at 42 miles. I used to do 60 miles easy with my 2014. I'm gonna check the float bowl to make sure it isn't poorly adjusted and dumping fuel. I will also change out the main and pilot and change the needle position for the altitude I run. Just wondering if anyone else had any issues with low fuel economy?
  4. KnightRider

    ktm 300 XC or XCW

    I ride a lot of WA single track (Naches, Gifford) and a little bit of Eastern WA desert. I just came off of a 2010 XCW 300 but my biggest gripe with the bike was deflection off of rocks, ruts, and poor performance in whoops. The open cartridge fork, for me, at 6'2" and 230 was difficult to dial in. I'm now on a 2014 XC and it has been so much better (since it is closed cartridge vs. open cartridge on the w) and I trust the planted feel of the front end much more. I had a suspension guy once tell me it is better to start with a better fork and then tune it to the style of riding you will be doing than to try to tune a lesser quality fork. For me, the CC forks are much better than the OC forks right out of the box and then you can still have them valved for the conditions you will encounter. If you insist on a PDS shock, you may consider buying the Husky since they come with CC forks instead of OC. The XC shock hasn't been at a disadvantage compared to the PDS on the XCW. I've added the Fastway adjustable linkage guard and it keeps the linkage from hanging up on things. I get just as good of performance in the trees with the linkage. The one area I love linkage is in the whooped out sections. If you ride single track, you know what I'm talking about, those nasty sections that require you to keep on the gas and hold a straight line. For me, the PDS would stay on top of the whoops more and cause the nose to dive a little bit more and then it would cause the back end of the bike to swap side to side. I never get this from the XC and it is planted in pretty much every condition I ride in. I'm not trying to draw any flames from everybody cause I really liked my XCW. I still own a 500XCW for adventure riding and it has been great. I just find a little better performance on single track and in the desert from my XC and feel like the tranny does a better job mainly during shifts from 2nd to 3rd. These bikes keep getting better all the time and KTM makes it tough to make a decision because they offer so many choices within the brand. Good luck!
  5. KnightRider

    HELP!!! Dr. D Hot start problem....

    The same thing happened to my friend's 250F last year. As he tried to pull it out, it broke a piece of the housing off. He called up DRD and come to find out, Yamaha had slightly changed the specs and the hole that the plunger sits in was made smaller. DRD was not aware of the changes. In other words, if you have a 2002 or newer you need a smaller sized DRD hot start than the pre 2002. Call them up and they will take care of you although they may require you to send them your carb...
  6. KnightRider

    Which bars to buy?

    I'm 6'1" and I ride with the McGrath bars and love them. I never have tried the Jimmy B bars before, though. The McGraths are very durable too
  7. KnightRider

    Grip Glue

    I recently read a tip in Dirtbike or one of the mags about grips. I decided to try it...works great, locked on tight. Here's the recipe: Wrap the bar with friction tape and then spray contact cleaner on the tape so that the grip can slide on. Wait a few hours and the grip will be solid. The contact cleaner melts the adhesive in the friction tape. I'd never go back to wires or hairspray.
  8. KnightRider

    426 Reliability

  9. KnightRider

    I want one, but I'm a little scared.

    You must learn this bike. Don't touch the clutch and lug her and watch yourself overshoot the landings. Odie, that is an awesome post...my feelings as well. I didn't quite understand the "don't touch your clutch and lug her and watch yourself overshoot the landings." I'm new to my 426 and what you just said I don't quite understand. Could you explain it a little more so that I don't have a bad experience Mark
  10. KnightRider

    426 Reliability

    I have been reading a lot of posts about guys replacing their blue bikes for the red bike that will be released in October. They say they want to switch to a bike with better reliability...even though the new red bike isn't tried and tested. A number of guys think that the new CRF450 is going to be much more reliable than the Yammie. I guess I'm not sure and I'll tell you why. Back in the '82 (sixth grade) my first four-popper was a DR125 the most reliable bike ever produced on this planet (sorry XR fans but it is true, crappy bike but very reliable). As a matter of fact, the bike still runs and my nephew rides it. In '84 I switched to an XR200R, '85 an XR250R, and in '86 I had (3)Yamaha TT350's. Both XRs died in the early 90's due to over-use (the bikes had 30-40k miles on them). Two TT's died in mid 90's and my remaining old TT finally gave it up last week with similar mileage on it (I'm a farmer in case you are wondering and these bikes transport hired help all over the farm to irrigate). All the bikes had monthly oil changes (which isn't too much considering the mileage put on them per month) and air filter cleanings. I guess my point is that the TT's were just as reliable as the XR's in my opinion. How can we say that a new Honda is going to be more reliable when history doesn't really back it up? The main problem with the YZ426 is that it is a 4 stroker that cranks nearly 50hp. If you want the power, you must be willing to deal with sudden engine problems. Ultimately, I'm happy with a blue bike until I see something that is proven better. Just my opinion guys. Mark Knight AgriNorthwest
  11. KnightRider

    YZ OR WR?

    I won't be doing any Knightriding on my YZ without spending some dough.
  12. KnightRider

    YZ OR WR?

    I'm with Hick! The YZ has a huge edge in the weight, cornering, handling, etc. I don't seem to be as tired at the end of the day as my buddy is on his wr. Only drawback on the YZ in the woods is that it is a little stiff on the suspension and you should drop to a 13 on the front sprocket. Both are easily changed with very little $. Did I mention that the YZ can then convert to the MX track and rip? All around bike...buy the YZ!
  13. KnightRider

    Decals Great! Thanks Bill

    Riding shirts would be cool too.
  14. Anyone out there want to part with your '01 stock spark arrester? I have a YZ and ride every once in a while off of the track. I noticed on a previous post someone sold for $75. That sounds resonable to me but I want one that is clean...no dents, etc. Please email me if you have interest.