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About rayivers

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  1. Here are some deformation measurements I made yesterday on a Sandvik 20c shim (8 x 20 x 0.1mm, 8 x 11 x 0.5 clamp); 3.0mm edge lift no visible deformation, shim sits flat on surface plate 3.2mm edge lift deformation lines barely visible, shim still flat on surface plate 35° angle, corresponds to 4.6mm edge lift on 24mm shim, 6.7mm edge lift on 30mm shim (w/8 x 11 x 0.5 clamp shim above) 3.5mm edge lift visible deformation lines, clearance seen on surface plate 4.0mm edge lift shim bent / unusable Ray
  2. rayivers

    2017 Alta Redshift electric MX bike

    2017 Alta MX test ride (very brief) Last month I called Town & Country Cycle Center in Wantage NJ, and Edgar was kind enough to arrange a test ride - so I hustled down there ASAP. Apparently the Altas had been selling extremely well, as the one I rode was the last unsold one of 4 arrivals the previous week. The bike has a clean ultra-high-quality look to it I haven't often seen in MX bikes, and all components are top-notch. Seat height is tall, but I found it manageable. The riding position was comfortable and immediately felt right, much like my '08 YZ250F. It's also wicked fast. The #1 (mellowest) throttle map felt roughly equivalent to a stock 5.7 / 6.5 Zero FX, #2 about the same as my geared-down 2.8 Zero 'MX' below @ 25mph (if I added my other battery it would be about the same at all speeds, I think), but the #3 map was a wheelspinning / wheelying handful at WOT on the partially-paved work area / parking lot / obstacle course behind the store. I didn't try map 4 as the test area was full of activity; wish I'd had even 100' of actual dirt, but I was so happy to be riding one at all I really didn't care. It was real cool to finally try out some aggressive throttle curves & get the full 'electric experience' at lower motor rpm. The SM version isn't shipping yet, but I doubt hooligans will be disappointed. The Brembo brakes had yet to bed in so the front felt a little weak, but I'm sure that will change quickly. The WP suspension soaked up the potholes & manhole-cover edges quite well, & apparently the 2018 Alta MX will have the SFF-type WP's (air-only spring in LH fork leg, damping cartridge in RH leg) like the KTM's already do. As soon as the 2018 features are annnounced, I'm signing up. I love my (heavily-modified) Zero, but the Alta is an actual MX race bike like my YZ, not a starting point for an extensive dirt-only conversion process like my FX was. Ray
  3. rayivers

    Electric Dirt Bike Pics

    2014 Zero 'MX':
  4. rayivers

    1976 Honda MR250 Restoration

    This is the correct flywheel puller for your MR250: http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/detail/honda/07933-3950000/b554147 Ray
  5. rayivers


    Yes, Zero will sell you as many packs as you want, but It's pretty expensive - and since battery technology is continuously evolving, it may not be the best idea if you don't really need the extra capacity right now. I only run one battery in my bikes and have a spare, but I've never used it to extend my riding time as I only ride locally these days. If / when they come out with a 4.0 pack I may upgrade to that and have the controller reprogrammed for a bit more power, but I don't know for sure. Ray
  6. rayivers


    I'm so glad I went into debt (briefly) in 2014 to buy my 2nd "toy", which has since become my main rider. Ray
  7. rayivers


    With Zero prices lower than ever and the numerous upgrades for street usage from '14 to '16, I'd strongly suggest buying new (ideally after the '17's come out, when '16 prices can drop quite a bit). Right now, a new S model is about the same as that '14 SR demo (no way it got 783 miles as a display-only bike) without any incentives. Ray
  8. rayivers


    Yes, I rode an FXS back in June. I thought the Showa suspension and brakes were quite good, but the steering was just not my cup of tea. If "better" = extremely quick with strong oversteer, then the FXS steering is definitely "better" than the FX. The reason I mention the steering is that if after owning the bike a while it seems just too touchy, it's difficult to slow it down much without a fair amount of work (or a steering damper). A test ride will give you a better idea; you may love the way the FXS steers. Ray
  9. rayivers


    I'd say yes, for your situation you should consider buying (or at least trying out) a Zero if possible. I have two '14 Zero FX's, one for street and one set up for dirt only - I love them both. Like many electric owners I also have several ICE bikes, all now gathering dust. If you can, I'd test-ride an FX, FXS, and SR (which handles a lot like an S). Definitely take them all around slow off-camber corners to check out the steering behavior. I've ridden all these bikes, and FWIW, I prefer the FX steering by a large margin. Does CA have any EV loan incentives? Seems like they would, since they've already committed to outright refunds. Ray
  10. rayivers

    YEIS info needed

    The YEIS chamber I have (Yamaha p/n 4V6-13581-00-00) holds exactly 400cc of water including the hose mounting tube (20mm long, @ 5.7cc). This was for the 465 / 490 engines. The Yamaha hose I got with it (p/n unknown, but probably 25Y-13584-00-00) is 225mm long, with a 19.0mm I.D. (@ 63.8cc volume) Ray
  11. rayivers

    Removing forks without a stand

    +1. I was going to go the stand route, but instead I installed a 5/16" x 2.5" steel hook into a 2x8 above the garage-ceiling sheetrock. I use two tie-downs around the center of the bars, and it works great - plenty of strength, triple clamps stay in place, nothing to trip (or tip) over, etc. The price was pretty decent too. Ray
  12. rayivers

    Tree Problems on Trail

    About 8 years ago I found a local guy online who specialized in stump grinding. He took the stumps (7 or 8 of them IIRC, 8" to 12" dia., all about a foot tall) down to 6" below grade, then filled them in with topsoil. They're dead to me now. Ray
  13. Thanks very much! Now I see why it didn't show up on the diagrams, as it's inside the lower tube. The OEM design looks really primitive. Ray
  14. What prevents metal-to-metal bottoming on older Showa USD cartridge forks, like those on an '04 CR250R etc.? Is it some kind of hydraulic-cone setup like vintage/EVO forks, a mechanical bumper, combination of the two, or something else entirely? I'm not talking about oil level / shim stacks / air pressure, but rather the actual fork parts that prevent (or minimize) hard bottoming when all the available fork travel's used up. I've studied a bunch of exploded fork diagrams and read through the Race Tech 'bible' several times, but just can't seem to find it. '04 CR250R Forks Ray
  15. Have you specifically checked the pilot air jet (in the carb mouth area) and its associated passage(s)? If this jet etc. is clogged, the idle will be super rich unless the fuel screw is completely shut off, which sounds like the symptoms you're having. Ray