Jump to content

Sierra_rider

Members
  • Content Count

    5,150
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

About Sierra_rider

  • Rank
    Arguing for arguing's sake.

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Dirtbikes, bicycles, guns, classic GM pickups, German cars, etc.

Recent Profile Visitors

5,509 profile views
  1. Sierra_rider

    My alternative to a new bike (300 content inside)

    I'm kinda surprised you had issues with the RK Tek head. Assuming it tightend the squish up, it should of made the jetting easier with the possibility of better economy. I don't really have any first-hand knowledge with the RK Tek other than one of my Ktm friend's like it. I know just by the measurements that the S3 should provide better performance.
  2. Sierra_rider

    S3 Performance Low Compression head Insert

    Slavens "mule" kit with 0-6k' AA insert.
  3. Sierra_rider

    My alternative to a new bike (300 content inside)

    Friend of mine with a CB 300 has spent much time and money trying to get to the point where Beta's and pre '17 Austrian bikes are stock. Plenty of top end and smooth, but even with a lectron and a head mod, didn't have the low-end of my 300. Now with the head, it's a no contest.
  4. Sierra_rider

    KTM 300 or Beta 300rr or Gas Gas 300

    To each their own, after owning multiple carbed 4 strokes, I don't see owning another one. Carbed 4 strokes are fine if you run the same elevation all the time, but everything is a hill here and they would never run optimally on rides with some elevation change. Another fun one would be when the bike stumbles because you hit a G-out and it starved itself of fuel. Never mind that the Keihn FCR is probably the most finicky thing known to mankind. Could the fuel pump fail on my 350 and leave me stranded? Sure, but I bet the old-timers were talking about how CDI's could leave you stranded too...look how reliable those have become. 4 stroke EFI was developed for performance, all the Japanese 450 mx bikes had it by 2010...think they were worried about emissions on a moto bike. Beta can say what they will, but I doubt they would've enjoyed the same sales success if they kept carbed 4 strokes. They would've at least been heavily discounted compared to current prices. Besides a couple people here on TT, I've never met anyone that wishes they could actually go buy a new premier model 4 stroke with a carb. That being said, I don't have the same sentiment towards 2 strokes. My 2 strokes have all been reliable and assuming they didn't have a garbage head, they weren't too picky about temp/elevation change. Unlike 4 stroke EFI, the TPI was never intended to be a performance advantage. It's all about the impending Euro 5 emissions regulations. It adds unnecessary stuff like oil injection and 20lbs of weight. Also reports are that they run a little on the lean side, which is not conducive to 2 stroke reliability. Ktm's already run hot as it is without running even leaner.
  5. Sierra_rider

    My alternative to a new bike (300 content inside)

    No worries...I figure with as much nonsense gets posted on this forum, any good info for someone isn't going to bother me. Anyway, the past couple years I've been interested in 2 stroke engine tuning, so at the last rebuild I got my dremel out and did my best to screw up the cylinder. Some observations: The transfer ports are very low on the 300, the intended purpose is to increase low-mid power. However, the transfers aren't even fully open at BDC. Dunno about porting to know if that's a huge deal. Anyway decided I was going to go with the thickest base gasket available (I forgot what size) to try to raise the ports and pick up a little more over-rev. The ports were quite rough on my cylinder, lot's of casting marks and rough transitions. I cleaned up/polished the exhaust port and then turned my attention to the transfers. The bridge between the transfers wasn't the greatest. It was literally a flat, blunt edge from where the base of the jug was milled. I cleaned up the casting flaws on the transfers and then reshaped the bridge on either side to have a sharp edge rather than a flat surface. The correct thing to do would be to fix the head, but I didn't mess it and put it back together. I don't know if it was the thicker base gasket, or cleaning up the ports, or both, but it did seem to pickup some power up top and revved more like a 250. However, I lost some off idle power and was a little too soft down low for my liking. Fast forward to yesterday, I finally got a new head for it. The smart money would be getting the stock head milled to my specs, but I ended up going the route of the S3 "mule kit" from Slavens. I looked at the RK-Tek, but felt it was a little pricey for what it is. Some of the numbers...measured squish on the stock head with my thick base gasket set-up, came out to .078". That's a pretty wide squish band and I'm surprised how well this bike ran with those numbers. With numbers like that on my old yz, it was super-sensitive to changing conditions. The squish measured on the S3 with the 0-6k'(AA) insert is .051". Still not the best number, .040-.045 would be ideal, but it's pretty dang close. Took it for a ride around the house and am totally surprised by the results. Still revs out well, but now has strong off idle power and a really strong mid-range. Even the 3/8ths throttle rich spot I couldn't get rid of is now almost completely gone.
  6. Sierra_rider

    My alternative to a new bike (300 content inside)

    I'm on my 2nd set of graphics and plastics, they only look clean in the pictures. I think the only reason my shroud graphics stay looking good as they do, is that my riding style is heavily influenced by trials so I don't really "pinch" the bike with my knees like most riders. I've broken just about every piece of plastic on this bike and replaced it all once the zip-ties couldn't do the job anymore. Alright...I'm throwing that on my list of "to-do's."
  7. Sierra_rider

    My alternative to a new bike (300 content inside)

    I ride lot's of rocks, hard enduro stuff. I have the SKF spacers and seals on my old wheels...it's a good system, seems to solve the issue of wearing a groove in the spacer. Mine's always been free of excess vibration. Certainly better than pre '17 Ktm's and worlds better than my big-bore yz300, I think the alloy frame made it feel even buzzier. The 'Zoke parts issue is why I'm glad I have an extra set of new forks. I'm hoping between all the 'Zoke parts at my disposal, I can keep these going for another couple years. One thing I'm intrigued about is the '18+ shifter. IIRC, you did it your bike and was curious if you'd do it again. I've always complained about the shifting on mine, very notchy and missed shifts. I know my 350 is worlds better in shifting.
  8. Sierra_rider

    My alternative to a new bike (300 content inside)

    I totally get it, I've always gelled with either of my Beta's. I rode a fairly well setup yz250 for 9 years and thought it was the cats meow, until I rode my bone-stock 300 and realized that I was faster on it than my yz with tons of money dumped into it. The biggest thing for me has been the handling, Beta's truly have an amazing balance between stability and turning ability once you ditch the stock front tires. Either of my Beta's have the straight-line stability of my old yz, but can still run a tighter line than the yz could ever dream of.
  9. Sierra_rider

    My alternative to a new bike (300 content inside)

    First thing to do was address the fork issue. I was pretty stoked with the performance of the forks, pre-anodizing issues...I had them valved by Stillwell w/ lighter rate ICS springs. I'd rate them up with there with multiple Kayaba set-ups I've ridden and certainly higher than my tuned CC Sachs on my 350. I had picked up an unused set of 'zokes for a good price awhile back and the plan was to use the tubes from the new forks with my cartridges/springs from the original forks. It'd be absurd to use the factory red anodizing on the new forks after know what I know know about 'Zoke wear issues, so I sent them out to Steve at After hours cycle(motoxgiant here) for a hardcoat. Thanks to him for providing a service that is easy/painless for something that most owners of race editions will have to deal with if they put enough hours on the forks. Anyway with the forks resolved, I turned my attention to the wheels. They were pretty trashed, multiple flat spots, gouges, bent spokes, and I can't begin to describe how out of balance they were. It's pretty bad when you can feel the "hop" in the dirt. I was contemplating build a new set of wheels with either Dirtstar or Excel hoops, but found a set of takeoffs from a '17 race edition at my dealer (MotoXotica) and decided to go that route. I dunno the whole story, but I'm guessing had to have blingy Dubya wheels on a new BYOB Beta and had no use for the stock wheels. They're Excel hoops, which should be better quality than the stock, no-name crap that came on the '15's. I figure I'll keep the old wheel set as my race wheels, already set up with a mousse. Against my better judgment, I decide to go with the Tubliss system on the new wheels. After having 2 failures of the inner liner, I wasn't too thrill with them. However, I do like the ability to air down the back and have other issues running UHD tubes, so I'm giving them a 2nd chance. For tire choice, went with the m5b evo in 130/80. I've been running the m5b for years now and while I've tried other tires, I always come back to it. For the front, I'm running a Goldentyre gt216AA fatty. This is still my favorite front tire, tried running the Shinko mx216 knock-off, but it's a different compound and doesn't have the longevity of the Goldentyre. I like the traction on the Shinko, but I've shredded the corner knobs on 3 of them now. From here-on-out, I'm going to stick with the Goldentyre 216. The old, scarred wheels: The forks and new front wheel...never mind the garish rim tap, came on the wheels:
  10. Long story short, I had been debating about buying a 2019 300...most of the debate had between a GasGas or a Beta race edition. I bought my '15 300 race edition new at the end of 2015 and after 260 hours, it was feeling and looking old. Between the abuse and being parked next to an '18 350, I've really been jonesin' for a new 300. Anyway, after much deliberation, I figured it made more sense to fix up my old 300 and get a couple more years out of it. I've already put a lot of time and money into it and hate the thought of having to start over. So I figure I'd document some of the stuff I'm doing to it, here. Dunno if it's worth it's own thread, but I'm going for it anyway. The bike as it was at the beginning of the project. While it had 260 hours, I just did my 2nd top end on it only 20 hours previously...so the motor was in mechanically good shape. I had gone through most of the bearings recently, so most of the those are good. The lower shock bearing does need replacement. On the "bad" side: dented frame rails(may fix) and the wheels are absolutely hammered. The coating on the 'zoke uppers was worn through. Also the inner fender is beat to shit, I've already replaced the subframe after a hill climb went awry.
  11. Sierra_rider

    KTM 300 or Beta 300rr or Gas Gas 300

    While thinly veiled, they're advertising increased wear resistance. https://www.cyclenews.com/2018/10/article/2019-beta-rr-racing-editions-first-look/ "Sachs 48 mm closed cartridge fork with anodized slider: stiffer and more resistant to wear, while providing less friction. SKF low-friction fork seals and wipers are also installed."
  12. Sierra_rider

    KTM 300 or Beta 300rr or Gas Gas 300

    Dunno, I haven't ridden it. Although it's a new design, Sachs and ZF are one in the same. At least Beta acknowledged the durability issues of the past Sachs.
  13. For racing, a mousse is the only way to go. I've DNF'd while because of a flat inner liner on a Tubliss. I've since switched to mousse's, after another failure of a Tubliss. I just bought a new set of wheels for my 300 and will give the Tubliss a 2nd chance. I'll still keep the mousse's on my old hammered set of wheels, purely for the few races I do nowadays. I like the performance of the Shinko Fatty front, but it doesn't have the longevity of the Goldentyre. More specifically, the outside knobs like to tear off. It's not too bad on my 300, but does it fairly quickly on my 350.
×