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Sierra_rider last won the day on July 2 2012

Sierra_rider had the most liked content!

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About Sierra_rider

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    Arguing for arguing's sake.

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    Dirtbikes, bicycles, guns, classic GM pickups, German cars, etc.

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  1. I've fit 2 bikes, facing forward, in my short bed ranger before with no issues. Although I prefer to just use my diesel with the 8ft bed nowadays if I have multiple bikes. Alot more room for gear, I can close the gate, and isn't hurting for power on the hills like my 4 cyl ranger.
  2. I'm talking about if you cut at the same place he cut, or just cut from the bottom until you start to pinch and then finish from the top...ideally you wouldn't do this, because you shouldn't be on a ladder. Not totally sure if this is the textbook way and I surely wouldn't advise your average homeowner to do this, but I'd probably walk my way out the tree (limbing as I go) and take the tree down in small sections.
  3. +1 He should have bored in and left a strap on the topside of the tree and cut that last.
  4. I wear a medium normally and the size M Airoh Aviator 2.2 fit right on the money for me. It was actually a lot more comfortable than the Shoei that I wore previously, as the Shoei fit really tight around my ears. In reality, I probably could've gone with a L Shoei.
  5. I'm assuming the Seat-concept wide seats everyone talks about is the big couch-looking ones that are popular with the dualsport crowd. I've ridden other bikes with those seats and felt they were a terrible idea for anyone who spends a lot of time standing up.
  6. Looks like it replaces the caliper mount as well, I'm assuming it keeps the caliper in alignment with the axle block during wheel changes.
  7. You can just barely see the starter in this pic:
  8. The suspension alone would probably make me choose the GasGas if I was buying a new 300 right now. After that, I'd choose Beta as I really gel with the chassis and both of mine have proven to be reliable (other than self-destructive forks on my 300.) I've tried the newer Ktm/Huskies...the counterbalancer is cool, they are just saddled with a crappy carb and head from the factory. Fix those 2 items and they are really good. I've no experience with the Sherco, but no kickstart on a 2 stroke kinda scares me. Also they have the older WP suspension. IDK if they figured it out, but the only CC Wp's on Ktms that I like, were retrofitted with Kayaba cartridges. As far as the yz-x, the only real positives IMO, are the initial purchase price and Kayaba suspension. I road yz's for years and after getting a couple Euro bikes, I have to admit that the handling isn't really that great. Some people like a slow-turning bike that is ultra stable everywhere else, but I just don't really "click" with it.
  9. I wear Gaerne balance boots...I like them, but it's really all I know. It seems like a lot of the locals prefer A-stars, which surprised me as I always thought their mx boots were a few steps below Gaerne in quality.
  10. +1 on the youtube videos. I also highly recommend the Recetech Suspension Bible, lots of good stuff on suspension theory outside of just the technical stuff. I use Maxima 5wt for my suspenson.
  11. It may be all the hours I spend road/mtb cycling, but I don't like the recumbent trainers. I think either a spin bike or a real bike on a trainer would be a better option. The upright bike really works the quads, hamstrings, and to a lesser extent, your core. As far as heartrate training, do you know your true max HR and the appropriate zones? The 220-age formula isn't really a valid method, there are other methods for finding your true max heart rate. It's also good to know your functional threshold HR(the max HR you could sustain for an hour.) While I like HIIT style workouts, there is some other cycling workouts that would be beneficial to you. If you know your threshold HR, I'm a big fan of the "over/under" workout. For expample, I can maintain 170 bpm for an on the trainer, I ride for 5-10 minutes over my threshold in the 175-180 range and then I'll ride another 5-10 minutes under in the 160-165 range. I'll repeat this several intervals for a 40-60 minutes workout. IMO, I find it really blends the endurance from steady state training, with the quicker results of HIIT.
  12. This. I guess I'm spoiled with modern pickups, but the ergos of most of the fullsize vans don't feel like they've changed since the 70's. Even at 6'1", they feel tight to me. Plus... even my long bed, diesel Dodge handles better.
  13. Did the top end on my 300...I had a 150 hours on the 2nd piston. Also went a little crazy on the ports with a dremel. Polished the exhaust port and disassembled/cleaned the powervalve. Also cleaned up the transfer ports, some casting flaws plus a blunt edge on the transfers.
  14. What I'm saying is backed up by reputable tuners everywhere. If you need stiffer rate springs because of your weight, then of course you should get them. However, if you have good sag settings with the current springs, yet go with a higher rate spring because the suspension is too soft...then you are just masking a valving problem. IDK if you truly don't understand it or what your deal is, but sag numbers are the way for you to tell if you have the correct springs. If one chooses to ignore common suspension knowledge and the advice of thousands of professional tuners, I don't really care...however, I surely hope a less-experienced member doesn't fall for this line of reasoning. I do have higher rate springs on my 300...not by much, but enough to get me good numbers. The big difference was valving. I actually went softer than stock on my 350(CC Sachs) and as a result of valving, they are stiffer than before. As far as jabs...that wasn't intended to be directed at you, but if you feel like you resemble that remark... I have raced...I just don't do it that much anymore as I don't really enjoy driving all over the state just to ride for a couple hours on a wide, whooped-out course. I have much more fun just trail riding with friends without the pressure of competition. Plus, I'm getting more into trials riding...a whole new challenge that more closely resembles my preferred riding.
  15. IDK, why you keep touting stiffer springs for everyone who thinks the Sachs is too soft. Sure, you should get the correct springs for your weight...but going for springs that are too high for your weight is not the answer for soft valving. For your stiffer springs scenario: Too stiff of fork springs and you won't have adequate sag on the front...which means that the fork isn't riding where it should be in the travel. Which can lead to a whole host of problems...a high front will hurt the turning capabilities. Now put on a shock spring that's too stiff and you have to run too little preload on the shock in order to get the correct race sag numbers. This means that you now have a bike that rides too low in the rear and just adds to the (under)turning issues of the too stiff front. This may not be a big deal when you are sitting down, putting around in 1st gear...but is of consequence to other riders. Since you're an audio-visual person: