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mjruopp

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About mjruopp

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  1. Had a Shorai in my Ducati 749R (not an easy starting bike) for 3 years. Never once put it on a tender; never did it fail to start... cranking in temps from below freezing into triple-digits, often with months between startups. I'll buy one for my EXC when the OEM battery needs to be replaced.
  2. I bought my bike second-hand with about 11h on it. Oil was still factory fill. I changed it immediately. http://www.blackstone-labs.com
  3. The in-tank filter is definitely a serviceable item; and it's outlined in the workshop manual. If your dealer cant seem to find a part number, go to NAPA store (WIX filters) and get a suitable in-line filter and EFI hose clamps. If you are going through the trouble of replacing the filter, replace the fuel lines with Gates in-tank EFI hose (available at NAPA) while you are in there.
  4. I understand what you're getting at, I just don't think it's a practical method. Ideally, just replace the chain at regular intervals... Like with a top-end rebuild. Otherwise, load the chain and measure the length of a specific number of pins, then compare to a new chain. I don't believe there's a spec, but I wouldn't want to go more than 5% stretch. Edit... 5% would be a lot for a cam chain. Just replace it
  5. Well... How will you know which tooth it was on when it extends out upon removal?
  6. I think my '07 was running a 45PJ (with 2.5turns on the fuel screw!) and 145MJ with the stock needle... It would hang and sputter and act as you describe.I also had '12 and '08 RB's at the time, which both ran fine... As soon as I changed to the '07's carb to the '08 jetting specs, the bike ran great. Also, I wouldn't be concerned about jetting for the FMF pipe (unless you have head work) ... The stock pipe has been proven to flow as well as any aftermarket pipe.
  7. On a side note, look for CR85 springs, they should be in the weight range your are looking for... Maybe a little on light side.
  8. A stiffer rear spring will put more weight on the forks. It's all about balance. Softer is, generally, better for a novice rider.
  9. Is it possible someone else change out the leak jet and now it's getting too much fuel? In any case, I'd recommend changing to the 08+ NMQS needle, 40PJ and new 138MJ. I would also recommend spending the extra 15$ or so on a new needle jet (main jet holder) as they do wear over time. You may ask "what does that have to do with the AP?" Answer is it doesn't directly, but the '07 needle and jetting sucks. The O-ring mod works. You'll chase carb issues all day long until you change to the '08 jetting or go aftermarket with JD, et al.
  10. 5.0-5.2 sounds about right. 85mm is (standard) 30%; 93mm is 33% of 282mm total travel. Proper spring will yield 10-25mm free sag. But that's just a rule of thumb... See what kind of feed back the bike and rider give you.
  11. Yes, it is an interference engine... a cam chain breaking will (most likely) cause major damage. I stick with OEM parts; unless it's a play bike, which in most cases, OEM parts were already manufactured in China.
  12. What's his weight? Also, race sag should be closer to 85mm (+-) for that bike.
  13. What year, what needle? Have you checked the timing of the AP shot? Also, you have to consider that the bike is designed for a max of 150lb rider... You are putting a lot of load the n the engine and will big a bit even under ideal conditions.
  14. Training wheels are the worst motorcycle accessory. Ever.
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