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About tk2stroke

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  1. R14060 is the air seal. You can reuse your existing seal if you are able to remove it without damaging it with too much after applying heat. I've removed 2 out of 3 without damage, but its wise to have an extra on standby. 180-200ml of oil in the outer chambers is more common. You can certainly go up to 220 if you want the fork compression to ramp up more quickly. If I remember correctly, most riders are going towards less oil, not more to avoid more potential pogo effect. As for oil weight, MXtech has done flow testing and recommends Motorex 2.5w as a close equivalent to the OEM recommended oil. I started with the Motorex 4w and moved to 2.5w since then. 2701 is the proper thread locker number, but reference this video for an alternative:
  2. Found some other threads and ATF recommendation was common. I'll give it a try. Older clutch pack did the same thing. I'll adjust the clutch adjustment screw as a test, but I cant ride comfortably with the clutch lever too far out.
  3. Before the new parts I already bled the hydraulic system with fresh DOT 4. Are you suggesting to simply remove and reassemble the slave cylinder? btw, so far unable to find threads on this topic
  4. I'm at in impasse and seeking wisdom. My 200 hour 2011 250sx OEM clutch hard parts provided me years of good use, but over the past 60-80 hours it's been clear it was time for a rebuild. The inner and outer baskets we're well notched and I figured rebuilding the clutch would bring it back to like-new feel. However, after replacing the inner basket (OEM) the outer basket (Wiseco) including the push rod, bearing assembly, and the clutch steels and fibers the clutch still does not disengage like a new clutch should. The bike still hard lurches when putting it into gear. The only hard part I didn't replace was the pressure plate. To make matters worse, since installing the Wiseco outer basket I would say the lurching and grabbing nature of the clutch is worse than the old components. I'd like to stay with the Wiseco basket for the warranty and promised improved wear characteristics as it's hard to imagine the Wiseco basket is the cause of my issues. I suppose what's most critical is to verify how far the push rod is extending to ensure the steels and fibers have enough space to slip. Does anyone know what this spec is supposed to be and how to measure the movement? Any other thoughts and suggestions are welcome. Video:
  5. tk2stroke

    Who's got the tricks for AER48?

    When did you purchase your kit? I purchased mine December 2017 and those were the settings then. Are you saying your specs show copyright restrictions? When I spoke with my tech they made it clear these kits are for public consumption and they weren't concerned with it bring out there, they decided to make it open source. Wonder if they changed their tune I would love to see your setting chart, please PM and I'll keep it private
  6. tk2stroke

    Who's got the tricks for AER48?

    MX-Tech will provide 5 different valving options (Pro MX, MX, Plush MX, Harescramble, and Enduro) as seen on the attachement. This kit is a great DYI starting point and it will allow you to experiment yourself while staying within boundaries. Prepare to go get the MX Leaf Spring Mid Valve Kit, as it's a very effective modification for a very resonable cost and it'll get your feet wet. If you going any other route, you won't know what was changed and worst of all you will lose the opportunity to start learning. There are several youtube videos available on how to install the MX-Tech Kit. But before you install the kit, you need a baseline for yourself on the stock forks. AER's always feel harsh for the first 10 hours before they fully break-in. Plus you want to lock down your preferred PSI setting before making "any" modifications. As little as 2-3 PSI difference has a dramatic impact on how the forks feel and you need to find your exact sweet spot before doing anything else. Then once you have a few rides after you re certain you found your PSI, then and only then install the MX-Tech kit. Trust me, if you install the kit first you will be robbing yourself of knowledge you won't learn any other way. The AER forks are excellent stock forks and those who take the right approach end up having really good performing forks with unmatched versatility offered by any other fork.
  7. tk2stroke

    PDS Shock Compatibility

    I presume you are referring to the part shown by the bottom arrow on my photo? But for the shaft to come out the bottom of the shock body, it seems both the top nut and the support would have to come off entirely, right? btw, on the photo you can see how the shim stack are warped and how mangled it was upon disassembly. There were thousands of particles embedded everywhere.
  8. tk2stroke

    PDS Shock Compatibility

    What are you referring to as the "bottom nut"? However, I was incorrect in my previous statement. The internal nut that is at the top of the shaft, the one that holds the two pistons and valve stack does keep the shock intact. If the shock shaft nut comes loose. the pistons and valving will slide of the top of the shaft and the shaft will exit out from the shock body. So in summary, if either the circlip fails or the shock shaft nut comes loose, either will cause the shock to separate. Is there any other way to shock can fully separate?
  9. tk2stroke

    PDS Shock Compatibility

    My 2011 shock separated as well back in 2013 and I had a very reputable tuner rebuild it since at the time I was not doing my own shock servicing. I did service my shock a few months ago again and while I always assumed the shaft nut came loose causing the separation, the shaft nut does not have any role in keeping the shock shaft and shock body assembled. The internal circlip inside the shock body is responsible for keeping the shaft from separating out of the shock body. It similar to how the shock spring is help in place by a circlip and retaining ring. It's a bit unnerving to know a single circlip is responsible for preventing a total catasrophic failure, but to my knowledge all the PDS shocks have the same design. If you watch my bleeding video starting at the 5:30 mark, you'll see the step where the circlip is installed.
  10. tk2stroke

    PDS Shock Compatibility

    My 2011 shock also separated in mid-air back in 2013. None of my core parts of my shock were damaged and it simply required to be reassembled with some internals being replaced. You or a tuner can audit the parts and determine what needs to be replaced and then have it rebuilt.
  11. tk2stroke

    PDS Shock Compatibility

    What exactly broke?
  12. tk2stroke

    Michelin starcross 5 tires?

    Yes, I personally would send back the tires and choose a better offroad tire, but certainly keep the Tubliss. Like many suggested, the Shinko Cheaters are popular tires and a good value.
  13. tk2stroke

    Michelin starcross 5 tires?

    The Starcross 5 Medium is an excellent motocross tire and my tire of choice for moto. In my view, It's also a very good desert or open trail tire which holds up well. However, it's not very good in a slow technical single track environment. If it loses a side knob and you're using Tubliss, the tire punctures easily and will require a plug. For offroad trails, there are many better and less expensive offerings. The Shinko Cheaters and Maxiss Desert IT's are very popular for those of us who ride in the mountainous terrain here in Utah. I have yet to find any motocross centric tire which also works well in offroad terrain.
  14. tk2stroke

    2017+ 250SX versus 250XC trans ratios ?

    How much impact did changing from a 14 to 15 have on your chain slider adjustment? I was thinking of doing the same on my 2011, but I'm using a 13t 3.85 ratio and may consider going to 14t for a 3.57 for the trails
  15. tk2stroke

    HACK: Better seal between your pipe and silencer

    I think it would be a safe assumption that these sleeves will work for all full size makes and models of 2 strokes. Between the two sleeve sizes, you would think they would fit all bikes as they pipes seem to be pretty standard sizing.