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Spud786

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    Texas
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    2015 500exc

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  1. Spud786

    2016 500exc fuel pump failed

    I think ktm learned several years ago to distance itself from Magura products, why the Husky gets the shaft I don't know.
  2. Spud786

    2016 500exc fuel pump failed

    I was looking at the gasket set , 3 orings and the tank gasket $50, that's pretty steep. The Gas resistive orings, might be found locally, but the big tank gasket, is that going to leak if not replaced?
  3. Spud786

    2016 500exc fuel pump failed

    Filter goes black no matter , most desmog immediately anyway, so tanks gets vented to air. I don't really consider the charcoal canister a factor, other than it tends to pressurize the tank in stock config. XCW's from 2012 to 2016 no canister, filter still turns black.
  4. Spud786

    2016 500exc fuel pump failed

    The black definitely comes from the brushes(gas runs straight through the brushes internally and gas is a strong cleaner).
  5. Spud786

    Oil level before/after ride

    It would take wheelies or high rpm application if it was going to happen.
  6. Spud786

    2016 500exc fuel pump failed

    That's pretty severe contamination It would be interesting to know all the factors involved, pure desert is probably the worst environmental condition as an enabler. Course the tank inhales air , and a shorty hose is a straight shot
  7. I completely get your point, fix the fueling and stock plug is fine, but its a $40 plug, so nice to have a cheaper alternative, even though Jd jetting has an even better alternative for a plug. Also I agree in not sensoring video's that are beneficial in nature, slavens is always at the very least entertaining.
  8. Spud786

    19 500 flame out issues

    take it to redline in first gear, if it makes it to 9800 rpm, maybe its reading right
  9. Spud786

    19 500 flame out issues

    Cant be that low, your tach set up needs adjustment, Ive seen in the past where only half the rpms are being read, related to the set up, reading correctly.
  10. Spud786

    Oil level before/after ride

    Its best to do a Hot engine drain, for a couple of reasons, #1 the oil is very hot and everything is in suspension, and drains easily. The hot motor also heats up the new oil, when pouring it in(raising the level), and temp comes up quick after restarting, which helps with finalizing the level. The oil level is to be checked on a fully warm motor, and top of the glass is fine, totally cold is an ounce or so high, but not a huge issue imo , at worst you might get a little pool in the airbox, or maybe not at all. I normally do my oil changes immediately after a run, but yeah the perfect oil level , is a learning thing. Sometime letting is sit for a while, before finalizing gives a better read, and sometimes, it might just run alittle high, as in your case.
  11. There was some discussion few weeks back , about who actually makes the oem pistons on the 4 strokes, the 500's /450's are made by an Austrian company , and its connected to Mahle, some 350's are cp pistons from the eastern U.S. The newer oem pistons on 450's and 500's have a unique 2 piece oil ring instead of 3 , not sure on the 350's.
  12. When and if you pull the head, the valve stems should be dry, you can see both intake and exhaust stems through the intake and exhaust ports, I kinda think, if you didn't mess with the head valves, and it wasn't doing it before, then its something new that was done. The end ring gap spec, is kind of ridiculous, ktm says anything less than 1mm is okay, and also allows up to near 3/4 ounce per hour oil burn is normal. You want to be seeing between .30mm - .40mm max for best results, after .50mm its like a wearing or worn bore imo My old ring in the original cylinder was .35mm, new ring .30mm on my 500, that's like .05mm wear discounting any manufacturing tolerances. I had very little wear ring wise or bore wise, I just cracked the piston crown from 800 hours of fatigue. To me, its going to come down to oil usage, or what you are willing to live with. If seeing oil usage, then that kind of dismisses condensation. You mentioned that you wash the bike and put it away wet, not sure the effect of condensation from that, I would think it would exist. But if you are using oil then you know something is not ideal. From an idling stand point, could be either rings or valves seals imo, when you do the blip, if its oil burn.
  13. Spud786

    leaking oil from head gasket

    If the piston was too tight, it would be scared as much or more than the cylinder, the rings at .20 '' are not tight . I think just its bad plating, that's where the metal came from, not the piston or rings it seems
  14. Spud786

    2016 500exc fuel pump failed

    Ive got over 800 hours on orginal plastic filter, and doing fine. These are all the same equivalents in metal as mentioned above , they seem to be slightly longer than the oem, 1/2 inch I agree on buying the otiker clamps, I already stock those Purolator F29160 or equivalent AC Delco GF479 Fuel Filter AC Delco GF479 $2.71 - $13.56 » Beck Arnley 0430804 Beck Arnley 0430804 $3.17 - $3.16» Fram G3606 Fuel Filter Fram G3606 Fuel Filter $2.32 - $12.65 11 V » Fram G3606DP Fuel Filter Fram G3606DP Fuel Filter $2.71 - $9.69 10 View Details » Hastings GF99 Fuel Filter Hastings GF99 Fuel Filter $2.30 - $9.95 2 View Details » Pentius PFB29160 Fuel Filter Pentius PFB29160 $8.06 - $27.08 4 View Details » Wix 33095 Fuel Filter Wix 33095 Fuel
  15. Spud786

    leaking oil from head gasket

    So you have no ring or piston scoring in those destructive areas (that's very strange) , the cylinder is supposed to be harder than the piston or the rings , maybe just not good plating.
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