Jump to content

Spud786

Members
  • Content count

    8,406
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,379 Excellent

1 Follower

About Spud786

  • Rank
    Get Help Now

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Texas
  • Interests
    2015 500exc

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Spud786

    FI light continuously flashes

    Sometimes they have the blink codes in the owners manual and sometimes they are in the service manual. But the blinks can be both long and short, and you have to recognize the pattern, and then find the appropriate code description.
  2. Spud786

    Blown motor seal

    Any thing that aides with reducing drive line lash, is going to aide to some degree. That's I why I metioned , if the ktm clutch basket is notched, the dampers Id expect to be trashed too. Cause that's their whole purpose is to cushion the driveline lash. That's a steel basket, much stronger than the typical aluminum, so if someone is notching a steel clutch basket, they are definitely hard on the driveline. Ive seen riders that plow though braking bumps downshifting with no clutch and the basket tangs get pounded and severely notched over time, to where the clutch stops working all together, cause the notches are so deep. This is with no dampering in the system(standard mx clutch). But Id say those DDS dampers develop some play rather quickly( or even quicker with oils that have additives to soften seals) , I just don't know when and if it ever effects the clutch action as a norm, as I haven't noticed it.
  3. Spud786

    2019 350 EXC-F

    I don't think anyone is knocking the Vortex(im certainly not), lots of retailers to buy them from. The 2019 key'd issue is being addressed, and hopefully resolved, sooner rather than later. Course if its a software fix, then you'd have to mail your unit in for the fix. I understand, that people are able to plug them in anyway and they work, but I think most would prefer a unit, where the official set up routine works without the kill button issue, IF they had a choice. For the most part the various dyno charts, peak horse are all in the same area whether vortex or not with proper fueling. THROTTLE response has been mentioned, and that definitely is just as important, if not more so. I certainly don't have my head up JD's ass, I emailed up there one time, on my 2015, and was asked if my reeds were installed(reeds didn't begin till 2017), so he has some genius's in the know, up there. But I run a modified tuner set up on my 2015, cause I didn't care for the official directions or lack of testing(later revised by jd), and that was definitely throttle quality related. As far as ktm/husky, not necessarily fan of all his products , but I like the guy, he defnitely puts out some good food for thought, and he does know stuff.
  4. Spud786

    2019 350 EXC-F

    So these 2019' riders with vortex's on Advrider, are blowing smoke , of something that I mentioned weeks or months ago. Dude , you didn't even know the proper Key'd set up vortex set up. till I posted it, directly from vortex, and you supposedly sell the damn things. Incomplete info on the internet, I know that I definitely see where it comes from .
  5. Spud786

    2014 KTM 500 EXC Clutch issue

    Actually its more complicated than that, the purpose of the 3 settings is to get the clutch pack to lay flat correctly, not just increase pressure for a different output. Your suppose to take a straight edge across the Bevel spring, from one basket tang to another, can only be .1mm variance, those settings are to aide with achieving that spec. The straight edge should not be pushed up or a big gap related to bevel spring. word of warning if you remove the right side case, there's a special tool needed to align the counterbalancer, going back together, so a ruler that fits right using the quick access plate, more ideal. III is the stiffest setting , just need to make sure the bevel is flat all the way across(no warpage) on that .1mm . also , are you dealing with a sludge free slave, that could cause hang up in the system
  6. Spud786

    2014 KTM 500 EXC Clutch issue

    The clutch pack itself is tensioned by a bevel spring(which also has different settings itself), this is totally separate from the hydraulic side. Pulling the lever ,puts hydraulic force on the slave piston, which transfers force to the tensioned clutch pack, opening the plates. When you release the lever, its actually then tensioned clutch pack that pushes everything back closing the plates. since I know the clutch can go a lot longer than 10,000 miles, whats wrong with yours? do you have an aftermarket clutch pack, the oem clutch has multiple plate thickness's that have to be installed in the correct order and direction. Sounds like that light clutch has caused issue, since you backed it off an issue went a way for a time. but you could have a basket combo of issues, creating the problem
  7. Spud786

    Blown motor seal

    Couple of differences, that bike uses long head studs with nuts , the 500 uses long bolts (no studs}, also being the piston is double the size you have slightly more room to work. unnecessary to remove stator cover on 500, not sure why needed on the 250. That tool is about $50 shipped but a must have imo
  8. Spud786

    Blown motor seal

    That's probably true, you can also look at the clutch basket tangs, as to how abusive that you are to the driveline. If your notching a steel clutch basket, you're probably destroying those rubber dampers too. I get pretty good life off aluminum clutch baskets, Im not seeing any wear with the ktm steel.
  9. Spud786

    Blown motor seal

    Does the recluse even use them, I thought the hub gets change out with rekluse? yeah Ive not seen any issues with clutch
  10. Spud786

    Blown motor seal

    I heard 20 hours, but I do utilize clutch techniques, that lighten drive lash
  11. Spud786

    Blown motor seal

    When I was younger , It was way more delight working on bikes, nowadays I only do it cause I have to, Im much more into riding than wrenching, but the wrenching and set up is just part of it, especially with dirt bikes for them to function right. I spend every bit or more maintenance time, on the ktm as I did, racing mx and harescrambles(cause Im running more hours in comparison), but its all been on the chassis side of things, this was the first time the motor let me down. I actually thought I could go 50,000 mile+, after seeing how well the motor was holding up (lack of oil burn, good performance) stator life has exceeded expectation , but 40,000 mile was the original expectation when purchasing. Seems the piston crown, just cant do it or the limiting factor. Everything else seems to have that possibility, from what I saw wear wise. Im reaching that time frame, though another 400 or 500 hours, I expect to be back in the motor, only deeper next time. Actually, Im going to have to do rocker arms, sometime in the next few months. Id also like to get an idea, how the plastic oil gear is doing, and pop in some knew clutch dampers, then I wonder should I go after the water pump while there, atleast a knew plastic impeller. Typically I trade dirt bikes before bottom end work, for something newer. I have a sportbike with 115,000 miles, that I'll probably never buy another street bike, and this one is paid for and still mint running shape, so I'll probably go to my grave with it, cause I'd have to shell out 15+ grand to replace it, and its very functional for anything streetwise. Im more apt to buy another Dual sport as a 3rd bike, one of those counter balanced 300's with a carb, catches the eye, but now its TPI or nothing. I like case reeded 2 strokes, cause you don't have to remove the carb to pull the cylinder.
  12. Spud786

    Blown motor seal

    yes, the same piston and ring combo
  13. Spud786

    Blown motor seal

    So basically using your standard 4 inch tall compressor, you can position all the rings correctly, and install in the cylinder, the piston wont fall out, its in there very snug. The hart part is the clip. I had to use a special curved eprom removal tool , first attempt was with small screwdriver, done many time with piston only, but with cylinder overhead, didn't have the right angle and room. This tool Im talking about, you just push and twist and the clip pops right in, it would have really been magic to of had that. part number 77329030100 , this is for the ktm clips with the long tail
  14. Spud786

    Blown motor seal

    The way I did it was the book spec way, its actually the easiest way, the hard part, is that I didn't have the KTM wrist pin clip tool , to put the clip in( the other clip is already in the piston). not having that pin clip tool was the hardest part, having to go to alternate method. Having just done it, you could mess up that oil ring pretty easily, it takes massive full 360 degree force (all at once) That's my perspective. There are one piece tapered compressors made specifically for 95mm piston, that may work okay
×