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twistngrip

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About twistngrip

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    Arizona
  1. twistngrip

    How much fork oil???

    It sounds like you may be considering pouring a given amount of oil in each leg instead of pumping out all of the air and then drawing out the excess oil down to the desired level. I'm not sure if that is what you mean, but if it is you need to use the method in the book instead of going with a measured quantity of oil.
  2. twistngrip

    PVC fork seal driver

    I already knew I was getting older, maybe this is an indication that I am getting YZer too!
  3. twistngrip

    PVC fork seal driver

    A 1 1/2 inch PVC coupling works. Of course you need to cut the coupling vertically on each side to make two halves. I purposely made these cuts in an S shape so that when you clamp it back together it stays together better without each half sliding up and down. I used a hose clamp to keep the halves together while driving in the seal. This is definitely the poor mans way of doing the job. If you are limited on funds it will get the job done, but it takes a little determination to get the seal in there. Next time I do it, I'm going to go ahead and cough up the dough for a real driver. Some have ground the lip out of the inside of the coupling and tapered the driving end of the coupling also. I used a coping saw to cut the PVC coupling Best of Luck
  4. twistngrip

    Factory Connection Springs 05 YZF

    Thanks Spode, I didn't want to have that nagging thought in the back of my head that I may have done it wrong.
  5. twistngrip

    Factory Connection Springs 05 YZF

    I have some spacers ordered at my Yamaha dealer. I understood the book to mean that you put the spacers on the bottom of the spring. Is this not correct? '03YZ450
  6. twistngrip

    Front Sag?

    I've discovered that Race-Tech has a different way of setting things up. For example, they say the stock rear spring is correct for my weight when in reality I couldn't get anywhere near the correct rear sag using the stock spring. I had to go up to a 5.6 which put things right where they should be according to the measurements. For that reason, I'm not going to go with the Race-Tech figures for the front. Instead I want to go with my existing symptoms and the advice I can get off of this forum. BTW..Since my original question I discovered that the Yamaha book mentions adding the above mentioned 2.3 mm spacers for more preload. It says you can only use a maximum of 2 of those though. I think I'll try two of those in each side and see what that gets me.
  7. twistngrip

    Front Sag?

    That is consistent with the problems I am having and the front actually does feel fairly soft. Maybe that is why not very many people use "front sag" as a measuring tool.
  8. twistngrip

    Front Sag?

    '03 YZ450F I weigh 185#. I have been slowly trying to dial in my suspension for some time. I haven't wanted to take the next step until I know for sure what I'm shooting for. I changed the rear spring to a 5.6 (had to to obtain an acceptable sag figure). Now I have an unstable front end (especially in sand) unless I am on the throttle. I was told on this site to try more front compression to keep the front end higher and if that didn't work to go up one size on the front spring. A recent article in Dirt Rider featuring one of the Race-Tech guys said although not used by a lot of people, the front sag could also be adjusted (by changing springs) targeting a sag figure around 65-75 mm. I did go four clicks firmer on the compression and noticed maybe a little improvement, but not a lot. I measured my front sag as they said to and it is at about 53 mm. Since there is no preload adjustment on the front as far as I know, this would make me think the front is too firm. My symptoms say it is too soft though. I am confused. Before I shell out good $$ for new springs I want to make sure I know the facts. Anyone have any input? If so, I'd love to hear it. Also, the forks are at the stock height which is even with the top of the triple clamp. I don't think you can lower them (to make front higher) in the clamps past this point?
  9. twistngrip

    YZF 450 vs. CRF 450

    A friend just got rid of his '03 YZ and got an '04 CRF. He says he is faster on the CRF and it doesn't wear him out as much at the MX track. He said he likes the CRF suspension better. Another guy with the CRF told me at his height (6'2") the CRF cockpit was a little cramped. I love my YZ, but it is hard to argue with the ultra-positive reviews the CRF receives.
  10. twistngrip

    I screwed up torquing bolt - Please help

    What happened to Stumped is probably the same thing that happened to me with my oil filter cover. Sometimes you can use the specified torque values and do everything right and for whatever reason they will twist off like they are made of butter. Stumped probably did everything right. I personally believe replacing bolts often is cheap insurance, especially on bolts that are going to give you ulcers if they twist off.
  11. twistngrip

    front end wandering.

    I'll give the adjustments a try. Is there any way to measure anything and find out if the front springs are OK (like with the rear) or do you just go by symptoms to come to a conclusion? Anyway, the first step is to try your suggestions with rebound and compression. Thanks for your input.
  12. twistngrip

    front end wandering.

    '03YZ450F. With the stock shock spring I couldn't attain the correct sag. I installed a 5.6 in the rear and now have the sag set at 100mm. The bike basically handled well before the change, but I have read that it will work much better after having the sag set and the other settings adjusted correctly. I took it out yesterday to give it a try. First I noticed the rear wheel jumping side to side in whoops, so I increased rear rebound four clicks from stock until the problem went away. Now I have a problem with stability at fairly high speeds. I have read the posts about acceleration and deceleration head shake. I don't know that this fits into either category. When I would cruise down the sandy trail in about third gear (steady speed), the front would unpredictably wander from side to side without any apparent rythym. I felt fairly comfortable with the cornering, so I went fairly fast (for me!)around the bermed corners. On one right turn bermed corner the front dove to the right and I went off the bike to the high side and hit the ground pretty hard. This was totally unexpected and I feel like it is related to the instability problem. Since I'm not sure whether this is acceleration or deceleration head shake or something else, does anyone have any ideas? I have studied suspension setup quite a lot on this forum, but this is my first time to go through the motions in search of the correct setup.
  13. twistngrip

    WR450 valve shims

    How far out are they? Mine required one shim replacement on the intake valves after about 50 hours and none on the exhaust valves. They have remained unchanged for the last 150 hours. I would imagine there is no real problem. You probably just need to make the needed adjustments and you will be good to go for a long time. Best of luck.
  14. twistngrip

    Fork Oil Change?

    Here is a link to some excellent instructions on how to change the fork seals and oil on your bike. I used these and the instructions are very well done. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB6&Number=978303&Forum=All_Forums&Words=21198&Match=Username&Searchpage=1&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=710299&Search=true#Post978303
  15. The longest oil filter cover bolt broke off deep in the hole while I was tightening it back up. It broke far before it was tight at all. After looking at it, I think it was defective metal. I want to pass along my fix in case it may helpful to someone else. I first decided to drill a small hole in the center of the bolt end (that was deep inside the bolt hole). I was planning to use an easy-out to extract the bolt. I thought a small bit would be choice to keep from getting into the side of the hole or threads. The small bit was able to flex and thus veer off in the wrong direction. This didn't work. After about 6 hours of other attempts at various techniques, I was finally able to get the bolt out. I took a piece of 1/4 inch copper tubing and placed it into the hole to act as a sleeve to keep my bit straight. Then I bought a reverse drill bit that would just fit inside the copper tubing. You can purchase reverse drill bits at some Ace hardware stores and other tool specialty stores. With the sleeve in the hole and a bit big enough to be rigid, I was able to keep everthing very straight. I oiled the bolt good and reverse drilled the broken bolt. Once the drill bit got a bite on the broken bolt piece, it just spun it right out. I was never so excited in all my life after working so hard to get that bolt out. I just want to pass this along in case someone else can use some ideas with a similar problem.
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