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    250 four strokes?

    It is too. I just bought a 16 FX, I am 6'2" and I am going to have to lower the thing a bit just to get my leg over it. 😱 The really nice thing about the FX that no other bike has is the ability to adjust both fueling and ignition timing for power delivery and torque characteristics. IMO this is a HUGE advantage over other makes.
  2. All this means is the terrain they ride is easy peasy stuff. Anything tough or really gnarly and an MX bike becomes a giant problem. No mountains in Ontario. There are very big differences between enduro and MX models. Yea, all those millions of used 4-stroke cars that get sold every year are just bombs waiting to explode. 🙄
  3. I run a Rekluse on a WR250F motor with a hydraulic clutch conversion and it works perfectly. The only complication is you will have to make all adjustments directly on the clutch pressure plate, which involves lifting the clutch cover .... which is a PIA but once you have the clutch properly adjusted, it doesn't need adjusting for a very long time.

    Not Impressed At All

    I finally got around to contacting the manufacturer and they turned around and blamed me. Which pissed me off. Hence this thread. I did not ask for a replacement and really didn't want one cause its a crap product. It is the way of the internet. 😝

    Not Impressed At All

    I have better things to do with my time than complain about a sh!tty $25 piece of equipment?
  6. The fact the thing was getting stuck at EXACTLY TDC means it absolutely could only be some interaction between the piston and the head. Or in this case the head gasket. There was zero possibility that getting stuck at exactly TDC could ever have been related to the crank.

    Fender bag

    I just mounted a DBG number plate bag onto my YZ and it is pretty adjustable. I moved it lower on the number plate to prevent the brake line rubbing on it.

    Top enduro riding vest????

    You won't be smiling when you go chest down on a hard surface while those pockets are full of tools and other hard things. Body armour is supposed to prevent injuries, not cause them.

    Not Impressed At All

    I've been riding 33 years. Tied down a bike or two in my time. 🙄 This POS product was only ever used to tie down a TTR230 in a trailer. Never used improperly nor subjected to adverse treatment. Never used ratchet straps on it either so no more pressure than what an average guy can produce.
  10. Has anyone actually proper experimented with maps? Or are we all just kinda following semi-random maps the other people have posted? I went from a fairly neutral map to the GYTR soft map yesterday and WOW, what a difference. That made me want to do some experimenting to see what effect different settings have on the power delivery. The most obvious place to start is to zero out one side and then try both positive and negative on the other side. Here are the maps I am going to try. Fuel injection zero'd. Ignition advanced Fuel injection zero'd, ignition retarded Rich fueling, IG zero'd out Lean fueling, ignition zero'd out The goal is to find out how each section affects performance. I suspect it will be possible to run correct fueling (whatever that will turn out to be) and then smooth out (mellow out) power delivery and punch by advancing or retarding the ignition. The GYTR system and tuner gives us an incredibly powerful engine management tool here.
  11. The close ratio tranny and lack of e-start would be a no-go for me. The terrain here is way too gnarly to even consider kicking a bike to life every time.
  12. The answer to this is ...... "it depends." Depends on where you are riding and what kind of terrain and what you want out of the bike. Maybe for you a TTR230 is the "best" woods bike. Maybe a WR250F would be better for you in your terrain. Maybe a Husky or KTM would be best, or maybe a YZ250FX. Just depends on what kind of riding you will do, at what level and on what terrain. Ontario woods are completely different from BC mountains or the eastern slopes of the Rockies in Alberta. As you did not see fit to give us any of this information, you will never get a decent answer to your question. At this point the best we can do is say, "MX bike for MX track, enduro bike for enduro riding"
  13. CDNSXV

    what tire should i get?

    Apparently at one time they were made in the same factory so thats not exactly surprising. I've got several of the Shinko made GT 216 and they are crap.
  14. CDNSXV

    what tire should i get?

    Lot of truth to this. However I do think the 505 Cheater, ridden under control is all three. The only thing the 505 doesn't like is wild tire spinning on broken gravel and rock. Other than that its an amazing tire. When I first started riding enduro, loads of the locals were running the M5B. It was THE tire to have. I found it to be an OK tire but in comparison to the soft hybrid tires, the M5B is a piece of crap and considerably more expensive. I'd never buy another one. Never tried the Washougal. Haven't even mounted the Ibex yet. My current (and last) front tire is a Shinko made Golden Tyre 216 fatty and after more than 2 years on it, I can confidently say it is a total POS. Very hard rubber compound means it breaks and sheds knobs. Stiff carcass means it bounces and deflects off everything on the trail. At any pressure over 8psi its garbage. 4psi on a front is pretty low.
  15. CDNSXV

    what tire should i get?

    I doubt the 505 Cheater would be very good in soft sand. It is a hard terrain, slower speed, technical tire. Speaking of which, I just hold of a Kenda Ibex Super Soft 774 front tire. The rubber compound feels easily as soft as that on the 505 Cheater. The carcass is def softer than any front tire I have used before. This tire is surprisingly light too. This is the infamous "limited to 25 mph" endurocross tire. I've been looking for a front to complement the 505 rear I use and I think this may be it. 😍